
blake kathryn
i don't do bad sauce passes
PUT YOUR BEARD IN MY MOUTH
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DEAR READER
Cosmic Funnies
One Nice Bug Per Day
let's talk about Bridgerton tea, my ask is open
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Kiana Khansmith
AnasAbdin
we're not kids anymore.
he wasn't even looking at me and he found me
d e v o n
"I'm Dorothy Gale from Kansas"
Lint Roller? I Barely Know Her

@theartofmadeline
Keni
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@applecrispsky
I had the opportunity to have me and my studio photographed by my classmate Malique Pye. He got these awesome shots of me working on my project and in the whole costume! Check out his stuff :)
tree grafting techniques
@cribins do these work? do you use any of them? is this just clickbait or?
Not only is this legit, itβs unbelievably neat and tidy! Iβve done some of the grafting techniques, but I tend to (because *gestures to self*) end up cutting my hands more than the plant material.
Grafting is really common. Most edible fruit trees, cultivated roses, some tomato plants etc are grafted onto a different rootstock as standard- you can control size that way, or make a useful but weak plant much stronger. As long as your two plants are related closely enough and you have cambium to cambium connection (cambium is the thin layer of green under the bark), you can do all sorts of weird shit - like a single tree that gives you plums, cherries, apricots, peaches and almonds.
And layering is fun! Free plants! The plant will sometimes do this itself when a branch touches the ground and starts sprouting roots.
This is indeed very neatly done! And grafting works like a charm (big grafting fan here).
Grafting compatibility is *not* associated with close relations between plants. There have been multiple theories as to how graft compatibility works, but so far no luck. Also some plants can be grafted one way but not the other around. Fascinating stuff. My own current theory is that it has something to do with nutrient availability and distribution, but that is untested. In my experience stem size (in grafting full shoots on rootstocks) is not really a determining factor, as long as there is overlap between the xylems and floems.
for anyone interested, i recommend reading these papers:
wulf et al 2020 on grafting compatibility
melnyk et al 2015 on general background in plant grafting
This is fascinating. There are so many kinds of grafts shown here. Is there any specific reasoning to use one style over another? Is it preference of the gardener, or due to bark thickness, or some other factor?
I am not sure, ive only done grafting in smaller species (arabidopsis, tomato, letuce) so then you just cut of the whole top part and replace that. it seemes like @cribins has done some. any thought?
i know that in some species the bark is denser or more breakable, so that might play a role.
I had no idea that you didnβt need plants to be closely related to get grafting to work! Thatβs so interesting - to be honest I shouldnβt be that surprised though as plants tend to do whatever the hell they want and do not pay attention to gardeners or botanists.
To kind of half-arsedly answer your question and then point you towards a much better resource, methods of grafting tend to come down to either the amount of material you have available for the top part (scion), the size, age and condition of the rootstock (stock), or the type of plant youβre working with.
If youβve only got limited plant material for your scion then bud grafting (chip budding) is the way to go.
If your scion and stock are similar sizes then splice or whip and tongue method (like what @haveyoueverconsideredpiracy I think is describing and mostly what Iβve done) is your go-to.
If youβve got conifer material, for example, youβd use a side veneer.
Lots of factors and so tonnes of methods. I shamelessly lifted all these diagrams from PropG, which is an amazing resource and will describe to you all the how toβs of the graftings in the video
Have people heard of falling fruit? It's a map that marks off foraging locations that are accessible on public land.
It's global and crowdsourced and points you towards FREE FRUIT. (And herbs and nuts and things.) They have an app too but the app costs $2 and you can still pull up the map on your mobile browser for free.
A massive, collaborative map of the urban harvest uniting the efforts of foragers, freegans, and foresters around the world. Explore and sha
This is how I found those park cherries!
I think I've added around 100-200 spots on here since I heard about it. Even put some of my own trees on it that overhange sidewalks. What's great is not only does it help you identify the plant by telling you what to find where, what's in season, what to spot through wikipedia and usda plant links. But practically any free resource you can think of you can either find on here or put on here like, good dumpsters to scavenge (for food or otherwise), water fountains, community orchards/gardens, fishing spots, little libraries / pantries, even bike pumps.
[ID: 1: Image of the map of the Western U.S. with orange circles all over it to show the number of resources in various areas. 2: A map zoomed in on a particular sour cherry tree with the map's popup window about it. End ID.]
patterns left by woodworms on driftwood
β± MISCELLANEOUS WHIMSIGOTH PNGS β±
an early september day
Overgrown houses πΏ
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good morninggg