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Victorian Underwear Panel for 221B Con 2017

This year CousinCecily and I hosted the Victorian Underwear panel together on Saturday afternoon. I’ll apologize to the men, because this one was exclusively feminine in content.

As usual we briefly went over the most popular myth of corsets (they are dangerous and uncomfortable). I still maintain that the average, properly fitted corset, is more comfortable than heels, not dangerous and is critical for supporting the weight of the garments, not just achieving a tiny waist illusion.

After a brief discussion about the changing silhouettes of the century, we dove right in to how those lines were achieved.

This was a very visual demo, with lots of examples, including late 18th C and Regency.

Late 18th C rump pad, quilted petticoat, petticoat, stays

Regency Petticoat, Regency Stays

1830-1840′s Corded Petticoat

1870-80′s Petticoat with built-in wire bustle (made and modeled by CousinCecily)

1890′s Petticoat: Blue petticoat of blue cotton voile and organdy

1880′s Tournure “Grand” bustle (my large bustle), with Red Pants petticoat (cotton)

1880′s Victorian Corset (modeled by CousinCecily)

I had a few examples of steel and poly boning used in the creation of corsets and skirt support garments, and demonstrated why we don’t like the cheap polyboning available at your local Joanns.

Anyone interested in more information is more than welcome to message me. There’s also a “Victorian’s at 221B Con” support group on Facebook where we’ll be working on building underwear, corsets and gowns together.

Websites and Blogs

www.fashion-era.com – Lots of articles and images for historical fashion and undergarments. Www.metmuseum.org – lots of examples of historical undergarments. Www.yesterdaysthimble.com – tutorials, sewing diaries, articles http://bridgesonthebody.blogspot.com/ - blog chronicling writer’s challenge to build every corset in Norah Waugh’s book, “Corsets and Crinolines.” http://www.yourwardrobeunlockd.com/ - Articles, tutorials, archive and so much more. Amazing, amazing site. Membership required for full access. http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/ - Sister site to Your Wardrobe Unlocked that focuses on corsetry and other foundation pieces. Membership required for full access. http://www.mistressofdisguise.com/ - Blog and tutorials. Her tutorial on “Some Quick, Cheap Panniers that Don’t Suck” had me laughing. http://www.trulyvictorian.com/ - Patterns, articles, tutorials etc.. You can’t go wrong with patterns purchased here. http://www.lafnmoon.com/ - Patterns

#копилка

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What was the point of the little thing at 0:28?

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She says it’s a pocket!

“which was often a separate garment”.

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V I C T O R I A N E R A

The fashion staples-

D r a w e r s - Women of the Victorian era did not wear modern style underwear the either wore drawers (1840-1870) or a chemise (1860-1890). as drawers were the Victorian equivalent to underwear they have a hole in the crotch to allow Victorian women to use the bathroom with their many layers of clothing.

C h e m i s e - The first laying piece worn as an undergarment over drawers was an unshaped garment which reaches just below the knee and typically had a draw string neckline. it added a layer and protected other clothing from sweat and body oils.

C o r s e t s - The word corset originates from an old French word meaning bodice. However Italy was the first country to use the undergarment. The intention to the garment was to create the desired pear/ hour glass figure. Corset was extremely bad for a woman body as all were incredibly tight and some lined with steel, this restricted a woman's breathing and damaged and moved internal organs.

c r i n o l i n e - The crinoline was an undergarment used to create shape and a base for other layers ( such as the petticoat). before the over gown (skirt/dress). the crinoline was a caged/hooped skirt frame which created the effect of fullness for the overgarment.

b u s t l e - the bustle was an undergarment. the bustle like the crinoline created shape however the bustle created fullness at the rear end of the woman. these became popular around 1870 much rather than the typical crinoline shape.

p e t i c o a t - the petticoat was another undergarment. the petticoat was a layer to add shape. often many worn at a time over the crinoline or bustle.