BATANES: North Batan Tour
Who would not want Batanes in their bucket list? The northernmost province of the country is known to be the hardest and most expensive trip every traveler had to encounter, unless of course if you take advantage of the airlines’ seat sale like I did. This is because of the notion of harsh and unpredictable weather condition, expensive cost of ticket, food and other expenses and and a long distance travel. But every cent you spend in this beautiful place is worth it.
BUT I DID NOT CARE! Batanes is my dream destination that I’ve never dared book an out of the country trip unless I visit this breath taking place. Last year, I promised myself to spend my birthday in Batanes, no matter how expensive the plane ticket is, no matter what the circumstances are, including the three-day work in research and my family’s disapproval of travelling during birthday occasions because birthdays are a family affair.
I’ve been searching for this place since last year. According to bloggers, the best time to visit Batanes is during the so called winter season on December to March. Many said that during summer, the hills are brown and the weather is very hot that you would rather stay in the shade than to visit the places. I would figure out that tourists cannot sing “the hills are alive.” Luckily, my birthday in on the third week of January. And mind you, the network signal in Batanes is very strong. I got an LTE connection for globe even in Sabtang.
Why Batanes? Why not! With its unspoiled postcard perfect hills, picturesque beaches, mouth-watering Ivatan foods and delicacies, traditions and rich historical and cultural treasures, it is definitely a dream destination for photographers and travelers. Or maybe because as a double major in Political Science-History, it fascinates me to visit a place with rich historical and cultural background. Batanes is the country’s smallest province in terms of population (home to 17,000 Ivatans) and land area. It is dubbed as the Land of the Winds and Paradise of the North. Three of the islands are inhabited namely Batan where the capital of the province, Basco, is located, Sabtang and Itbayat.
I endured a very exhausting connecting flight from Iloilo to Batanes because of the cold Amihan wind affecting the whole country (I’m not used to cold) and the delay in the runway. But I am still grateful for the experience.
As the plane descended in Basco airport at ten in the morning, tourists and travellers were welcomed by the majestic view of Mount Iraya, an active volcano that erupted in the 1400s. We also had a glimpse of the well-known stone structure of the airport’s departure and arrival area. I also enjoyed the free airport service of Marfel Lodge.
I stayed in the most recommended accommodation in Batanes, the Marfel Lodge’s main building. I was greeted by Ate Emy and Ate Kris who tended to me for my five day-four night stay. They are so very friendly and accommodating. The lodge has its own version of the well-known honesty store, an unmanned store where tourists buy the products and leave their payment. What to do in Batanes? Just be honest, pati sa imo feelings J. My room is very clean and comfy too! Everything in the lodge screams of simplicity and cleanliness.
I decided to take a bath after the exhausting trip. The weather is so cold I forgot to use the hot shower. I spent a lot of time in the bathroom because I enjoyed seeing my breath J. Then I slept for an hour then started the North Batan Tour. It was a joiner trip offered by Marfel Lodge and Chanpan Tours where I got to know other tourists. On the first day, we were eight including our tour guide, Kuya Art and his apprentice, Krista. During my last day in Batanes, Krista told me that their afternoon class is spent for fieldwork, which means they get to join tours as part of their curriculum given that Batanes is known to be a tourist destination. We first ate our lunch and Kuya Art gave an orientation about the tour then proceeded to Batanes Provincial Hall to pay for the Batanes Environmental Fee worth P350.00 and Protected Area Entrance Fee worth P50.00.
North Batan Tour (January 25, 2019)
Mount Carmel Church (Tukon Church)
Our first stop in the Mount Carmel Church also known as the Tukon Church, which is under construction during our visit. The church’s walls are made up of boulders, the door is wooden, and the windows are stained glass with images of church’s icons. Inside are the images painted in the altar and the ceilings. At the back of the church is the view of Mount Iraya, on the left side is an ocean and on the right side is the green hills. I spent few minutes appreciating the scenery while waiting for the front church to be vacated by other tourists.
Then we proceeded to the Pag-asa Weather Station of Basco located in a hill, just a few meters away from Tukon Chapel. It was formerly looked like a ball atop a building, however, according to Kuya Art, it was destroyed by a recent typhoon. It also offers a good view of Basco’s landscape and seascape. We had a nice view of the hills and winding road at three in the afternoon.
Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel
This Japanese tunnel was built during World War II by local Ivatans and served as the Japanese military’s hideout. It is located strategically in Tukon hills with a view of Basco’s town proper. We had to do a duck walk to safely exit the tunnel. Above the exit is a hill offering a good view of Mount Iraya, Basco airport runway and the Pacific Ocean.
Fundacion Pacita is not part of the itinerary, however we tried our luck to visit the place but luck is not in our favour because it was closed for an event. It was decorated mby a well-trimmed and managed garden with a restaurant known as Café Tukon for those who fancy eating Batanes’ popular foods. Then we had a glimpse of the place from afar.
Valugan Beach, locally known as Chanpan (according to its marker where Chanpan Tours derived its name), “is a sacred fishing port of the fishermen, most especially those from Barangay San Joaquin.” The boulders “are said to be evidences of geological forces from the volcanic eruptions of Mt. Iraya around 325 BC and two others around 286 AD and 505 AD. This stretch of boulders and gravel, smooth over time by the strong waves of the West Philippine Sea and the Pacific Ocean, is a habitat to a variety of marine crustaceans and molluscs.” It is also a favourite destination of photographers and tourists who want to enjoy the sunrise and the sunset.
Vayang Rolling Hills is one of the most popular attractions in North Batan. It is made up of different hues of green hills, with grazing goats and cows, and chickens and a magnificent view of the sky and ocean. Itbayat can be seen from this place. It also offers a view of the Basco lighthouse.
I was mesmerized by the place that I forgot to take a lot of photos and instead spent time sitting and watching the greenery view and the contrasting afternoon sun light in front of me. Thank God for letting me meet Krista, I had somebody to talk to while admiring the view. There were countless times that I exclaimed “Shet! Ang ganda” the entire tour, most of which when I was in this place. I told her that may be this place is a cure for a depressed person because I felt like my problems vanished like a bubble by just inhaling the fresh air and looking at the beautiful creation in front of me.
Naidi Hills and Basco Lighthouse
This is the last stop of the first day tour in Batanes where we got to spend the sunset as the temperature got colder. The Basco lighthouse can be seen from the airplane’s A window seat as I approached Batanes. It is made of stones or rubbles and the only lighthouse in Batanes where tourists can climb the top and get to see the view of Basco. Not too far from the lighthouse are two renovated structures of the World War II ruins that once were old telegraph facilities of the Americans. The far end is the dark structure, evident from the ruins of the bombing.
The Basco lighthouse is also the favourite destinations of photographers who love to do astrophotography. Kuya Art even invited me to a photoshoot for my birthday (see my South Batan Tour blog post). Thank you Kuya Art!
After the spectacular glimpse of Batanes North Batan Tour, I dined with Patricia, also one of those who availed the Chanpan tour, in the Pension Ivatan, a restaurant offering a reasonable price for a sumptuous meal. We tried the uved/uvud balls popularly known in Batanes and it did not disappoint. It was a tasty treat for us.
I was so excited for the next day tour that I slept early (plus factor the no rest-tour agad). We had to wake up early the next day for the Sabtang tour. ###