The journey of self discovery

Solo backpacking through Bali, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Singapore on a shoestring!

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Discover India - Delhi and Agra

Out of the six countries I was backpacking through, I had been keeping a special place in my heart for India. Although at the same time I was incredibly nervous and apprehensive when arriving into Delhi...I guess that comes down to the complete mixed bag of stories I'd heard, not to mention the recent news reports of gang rapes on women. I knew people who had loved their time in India and others who simply loathed the place, swearing never to return. As I boarded my flight from Bangkok, I was churning through a million anxious thoughts in my spinning head...At this point wishing I had a travel partner and wishing I wasn't going alone. One thought that provided me with some refreshing optimism, was the book I was currently reading, Shantaram. This book was providing me with truly honest insight into the country and through this I thought I was somewhat prepared. Although I was also positive that my previous months travelling through Bali, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam would have made for a seamless transition into the country's way of life. I was completely wrong on all accounts... India is a world of its own, unlike any other country I'd visited and upon touch down I noticed the majority of other backpackers where only in "transit" through Delhi...Even making it through the airport and to hotel felt like a heart racing adventure. I was shocked at the general unfriendliness of people, I was appropriately dressed and covered, but still the looks where far from welcoming. They simply say India can be kind to you or not kind, I was praying and hoping that the next 3 and half weeks would be enlightening, eye opening and a positive experience. My first night and only night in Dehli was rather confronting. The pace of this place was chaotic, ridiculously humid, hectic and intimidating. I suddenly felt navigating through the sea of motorbikes in Saigon was easier and more doable setting foot in New Dehli. Needless to say that night I enjoyed my first Indian dish, a vegetarian Chana Masala. Absolutely Devine and I felt myself relax, a little anyway. The next morning I departed for Agra on an early morning train. It was when I arrived at the train station, my eye was consumed with hundreds of homeless, beggars, amputees and I didn't know where to look. Indian railways are the worlds largest employer with 1.6 million employees and the system can definitely be counted as one of the marvels of modern India. I was in 2nd class with air conditioning and although wedged next to a burly Indian man, it was a somewhat present trip. Probably because I was so used to spending 13-15hrs on an overnight sleeper train, this trip was a very short and sweet 2 hours... Agra is best known as the site of India's most famous landmark, the Taj Mahal. Disembarking at the train station, I witnessed "big foot" and I kid you not, in another travel book I'd previously read on this trip ("The Backpacker" - John Harris) the writer is in India and actually mentions that specific deformity, naming him "big foot" - whether or not it was the exact same guy? How many of them is there out there? I knew the agent orange caused similar effects in Vietnam, but what was the cause for this in India? He wheels himself around in some sort of hand powered peddle chair, carrying his gigantic, oversized foot, which would easily be the size of two large human heads...Other beggars skate past you on timbre boards and every step street children are tugging at your shirt for rupees. The Taj is of course as completely spectacular as you'd image, even in sweltering midday heat, the site was jaw dropping. What was even more perplexing was the amount of photos I was asked to feature in for Indian families. Did they mistake me for a western movie star? My height and light coloured hair did make me stand out, I always said yes and sometimes even got a snap on my own camera too. Mostly it began with parents asking you to stand with their young child for photo. Then after that, another family member would appear, then another and another. At one point I was having my own photo taken in front of the Taj, when I was photo bombed by a random parent abruptly placing their baby, without warning, into my arms! Wow, I'm standing here at the Taj Mahal holding some strangers Indian baby and having my photo taken for their record...They didn't try to scam me or charge rupees, they were just so thrilled with a photo of me and their baby! Little did I know this wasn't just going to occur for the rest of the day, but the entire trip in India...I should have started charging them rupees and made a mini fortune! One other strange moment I had standing outside the Taj was when an elderly woman who asked for a photo with me. Seeing as I have a noise ring and toe ring, I've worked out that this is a common ground between me and the traditionally dressed Indian women. An instant respect and gratitude was developed due to my similar piercing and jewellery. Anyway while standing next to this woman, I noticed her husband taking the photo (on a wind and click kind of camera) but then I observed next to him was a young Indian man probably around my age, smiling widely at me - also taking a photo on his phone. Then he asked to be in one, then another with both the father and the mother. About 30mins later they found me again and the son asked for another photo standing shoulder rubbing close, pretty much wanting my hand in marriage with eager parental encouragement, I was completely freaked out! While in Agra I also visited the Red Fort and had a wonderful rooftop meal which consisted of Dahl makati and vegetable curry. The next day I was taking a 6hr local bus ride to Jaipur, where'd I'd spend 2 nights, the famous "Pink City" .

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Lovely Loas continued...

Vang Vieng - what was, up until the end of last year, the party Mecca for backpackers in all of South East Asia (pretty much what Laos was only known for). My oldest brother, amongst other friends had been to Vang Vieng years ago when it was flourishing for all the wrong reasons. Although you wouldn't even recognise the place now...Well I guess, in a sense the sleepy riverside town has rightly been returned to what it once was before the invasion of drugs, tourists, deaths and utter disrespect. I was educated by a local man on how the whole problem started and also how it came to crashing halt in 2012... There is an organic farm on the outskirts of what was then, a completely unknown town of Vang Vieng. The owner had a couple of backpackers working for him on the farm, during the summer they were exhausted and so he came up with an idea for the workers to relax. Giving them a couple of spare tire tubs from the farm he drove them to the banks of the river and suggested drifting down for fun and that he would collect them 4kms down stream. Little did anyone know this was the beginning of the end for the quiet town...This was during the late 90's and by the mid 20th century the town was completely transformed and booming. Tubing had become so immensely popular, such a new money maker for locals, that countless companies now operated and not to mention the hundreds of bars that sprung up left right and centre. Most of which openly sold an array of drugs (mainly weed and hallucinogenics) to tourists. Ideally you would spend the day drinking the local spirit Lao Lao, floating down the river, pulling in to any bar and take drugs, then get back on the river...pull back in at the next bar, then use the 10ft jumping pole or say the flying fox or even the 'concrete sliders' - all of which hurriedly propel completely intoxicated foreigners in dangerously low waters (no one counting how many go in vs how many come out). The wild party continues well into the night and early morning. After a days tubing, an entirely new selection of bars throughout the town open up, which offer you free breakfast or coffee if you stay all night drinking / partying / tripping. That's if you made it out of the river alive. The small hospital was becoming over run with foreigners and injuries from tubing, most resulting in death. Locals where threatened with jail so keep their secrecy and the press was bribed to keep quiet for many years about the actual number of deaths that where occurring on the river. Not only were a lot of people dying, the tourist where running ramped in the usually very culturally respectful town. Everything from ridiculously loud thumping music, to yelling and swearing, girls prancing around the streets in skimpy bikinis with body paint and guys hurling up all over the roads...The locals where quickly becoming offended by this ignorantly repeated and jaw dropping shocking behaviour. Last year in Australia a controversial documentary was realised about the fact that there were more Australians dying per year in the very country then anywhere else in the world...This caused a lot of debate, the local Loa authorities couldn't keep bribing the press and word soon spread of how many where actually dying there. At its peak, it was 3 a day. Luckily the government stepped in last year, abolishing all riverside apparatuses and bars. As in, completely demolished, removed, gone...Drugs are now also banned and not surprisingly business for the locals has dropped a whopping 70% . When I was walking through the ghost town, all remaining restaurants and bars where complete empty with maybe one or two travellers in them. The clothes and merchandise stores had faded stock which was covered in a thick layer of dust (it had been there untouched for that long). Sadly removing what was so bad for the town has now killed there business and lots of families are struggling. Although on the upside the town is positively rebuilding itself, slowly but surely. You can still tube Dow the river, just now without the opportunity to kill yourself doing it. It's safe and party free, family friendly and one again, a quiet town. Vientiane is where I finish my Laos adventure, one of Asia's sleepiest capitals...Again another bike ride occurred and before I knew it I was crossing the "friendship" bridge back into Thailand to board the overnight train back to Bangkok. I love Laos more than anywhere and will definitely be heading back for some more exploring.

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Lovely luscious Laos...

Another border crossing by foot, this time it was Cambodia into Laos! I couldn't wait to get my teeth into this country, I'd heard so many traveller stories and was already predicting I would like it more then Vietnam. After crossing the border, I headed the what they call the "Niagara Falls" of South East Asia. Here I was thinking (silly Australian) I could get a swim in, seeing as it was ridiculously hot and the humidity was just engulfing. If I had got in that water I would have actually ended up in South Vietnam within days, the force and pace of that overflowing river and falls was just so powerful. Next stop, Don Khong Island - the largest island on the Mekong river and possibly the worlds dodgiest barge trip to get there. I was honestly fearing for my life...the back of the barge was taking on water and the entire weight was resting on a rusted, pivoting arm which connected to an external floating carriage, which was where the driver operated from. Don Khong, with its rice fields, small villages and tranquility, is wonderfully scenic and was the perfect place for an afternoons cycling. This was the start of what I like to call, "Tour de Laos" and every town proceeding Don Khong I seemed to find myself on various types of bikes exploring. Another city or town in Laos, another bike journey was always desired...I fell head over heals for the beautiful landscapes throughout Loas. Leaving the island I travelled through the lush province of Champasak, once the capital of the Lao Kingdon and home to Wat Phu. Soon arriving in Pakse, I crossed the Mekong once again (now seeing this mighty river in a total of 5 different countries) to visit Wat Phu. Wat Phu dates back to the Angkorian period and is one of the most important and impressive archaeological sites in Laos. It had now come to my favourite part of any country, the local Home-stay. It was during these situations that I had the most unique experiences, I truly got the see what their culture was about and mingled with many locals in their personal environments. I spent the night on Dong Deng Island and actually slept in the Chief of the village residence. This typical Loa village and way of life was enticing, I wondered the sandy roads till sunset photographing happy kids playing around. I slept under a mosquito net on a veranda and had the most incredible vego meal. Tofu vegetable soup, followed by four different vegetable dishes and a platter of seasonal fruit for afterwards. For the Southern part of Laos that was it and I boarded a flight to the north, arriving in Luang Prabang at sunset. Instantly I feel in love, I know I know, I am repeatedly falling hopelessly in love with every corner and part of this beautiful country. Luang Prabang is known for its gorgeous setting on the meeting of two rivers and the hills in which it's surrounded by. Although it also oozes Laos Buddhist and architectural heritage. With an impressive 32 temples, the sunset climb to the top of Phousi Hill was just gorgeous. I also rose at dawn to watch the monks walk through the city collecting offerings of food from the locals. And of course making ample time to browse the "Black Night Market", a flood of colourful textiles and unique items, that were definitely not same same like Thailand's products. Utopia is an incredibly zen and chilled day or night hang out spot on the river, it has loads of outdoor areas filled with mediation pillows. It was there they advertised "Big Brother Mouse" - a local organisation providing village kids with opportunities to practise or learn english. It takes place in the local library, where any foreigner can read books to children of young ages through to 18yr olds. Afterwards you just have general conversations, these bright children are picked up every day by bus and live over an hour away from Luang Prabang. Beautiful.

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Cambodia I love you...

I left Bangkok by bus and headed towards the Cambodian border. I've never experienced anything like it, arriving into a new country by air is compatibly calming and easy...I got out of the bus and immediately started sweating as hot wind blew dirt straight into my eyes, this place was so desolate and the poverty was far more confronting than anywhere else in South East Asia. I queued in line several times, both before approaching the Cambodian border and also after, repeatedly showing my passport and applying for my visa. I was dubious of these men in immaculately pressed uniforms, with stern and serious expressions. Although upon closer inspection, I noticed they were wearing dirty thongs and standing in rickety tin sheds with dirt floors...Welcome to the "Kingdom of Cambodia" I thought to myself traipsing across the friendship bridge with my heavy backpack, now physically challenging me and weighing definitely half my own body weight. After the strange border 'formalities' I headed towards the local bus stop. On my way past the first building beyond the border, I find it very hard to ignore this eye-saw! What else would you expect with shocking poverty all around you...but a gigantic, shiny casino with plush, glamorous hotels either side!? It suddenly clicked that while at the Golden Triangle, I observed the same thing at the border of Thailand, Laos and Burma...at the time I was puzzled, a casino in the middle of the jungle? How bizarre. Turns out gambling is illegal in Thailand and thousands flock to the bordering countries to gamble whatever money away they have. In a third world country, where the majority of people struggle to make a living daily, how do they afford to waste money gambling - it surely baffles me. The local bus trip to Siem Reap from the border was one worth remembering, because I was physically battered and bruised (not kidding) from the knee jerking journey... There was a remarkable and dramatic difference in scenery from Thailand to Cambodia. I had two nights in Siem Reap and every minute was spent exploring the beautiful temples - in rain, hail or shine! Angkor, the former capital of the Khmer Kingdom, is one of the wonders of the archeological world. I do have to list some of the historical facts as this site it just mind blowing. It was rediscovered at the end if the last century by French explorers and now this vast ruined city has become one of the most popular sites in South East Asia. I watched the sunrise at the magnificent temple of Angkor Wat, then followed this experience with a full days 'temple running'. I also visited the walled city of Angkor Thom and the much photographed temple of Ta Prohm (the infamous Angelina Jolie aka Tomb Raider scene) which is slowly being reclaimed by the jungle. While in Siem Reap, "Pub Street" is the place to go for nightlife...everything from night markets, to $2 massages, traditional Khmer dancing and nightclubs! The Khmer dancing is a spectacular event, backed by the most discordant music I've heard, but the colourful attire and sharp moves keep you in a heaven trance... Leaving this beautiful place, I was not looking forward to another 6-7hr bus ride on rocky Cambodian roads, which where riddled with notorious holes. Hours and hours of snaking through dirt roads, where driving in a continuous straight line for more than 2ms was virtually impossible. I wasn't really to excited about another big, grimy city and in South East Asia they seemed to be confronting on a multitude of levels. I arrived in Phnom Penh, knowing that this wasn't going to be a joyful visit...I was about to witness the darker side of Cambodian history. The morbid and confronting day started at Tuol Sieng prison, the notorious Khmer Rouge prison where thousands of Cambodians perished. The afternoon was spent at Choeng Ek,which is the site of the renowned Killing Fields. However depressing this day was, I did manage to finish the day with a reflective drink in a riverside cafe, watching the sunset. A fitting finale really. The night was filled with more hectic night market adventures, Central Market taking the cake is its sheer size and sprawling so much distance I was repeatedly lost. Another 6-7 early bus ride takes me to northern Cambodia and a little town called Kratie. Although en route, I passed through Skuon (a small town famous for its delicious spiders), where is possible to sample an eight-legged snack. Lucky for my vegetarianism, I got out of that one - but it definitely didn't stop the local children placing the real, live, crawling, spiders on my shirt! Ek! Once in the deserted town of Kratie, I headed straight out on the Mekong for an afternoon of Irrawaddy Dolphin spotting. Now after and hour or two I was becoming rather suspicious that they perhaps just didn't exist or these Dolphins where incredibly illusive...Finally, racing the quickly setting sun, I spotted the Irrawaddy species and I must say it did look similar to a dugong. They also didn't come bounding up out of the water, frolicking around like in Australia. Non the less it was a beautiful way to spent my Friday afternoon. I had a tuk tuk drive back along the waters edge and sat with local fishermen to watch the sun get eaten by the orange-stained horizon. Cambodia I love you.

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Southern Thai Island Adventures...

Excited to be heading down south again, although not for full moon antics, but in the search of some beautiful beaches with white sands and turquoise waters. I flew from Bangkok to Krabi and had a local homestay at Koh Klang the first night. I had been on the eastern side of the gulf when I went to Samui and Kohpangan in June. The volunteer project had also gone to some villages and small beachside communities on the western side nearing the Andaman Sea - but not Krabi, Phi Phi, Ao Nang or Railay Beach. I had 3 very blissful nights in Ao Nang beach, where Imogen and I stumbled across the most incredible reggae/flamenco band.Like many other travellers that had come across SungKaya on that Tuesday evening, they came back to the "Boogie Bar" Wednesday and Thursday nights for all 3 gigs - addicted to the consuming music. Not to mention the bar did two for one beers and 100bht cocktails - I think we were averaging around 10 a night. Here I met Keow the main singer/guitarist and founder of the Phuket based group, who had some very simplistic and pure ideals about life. I probably would have as well I thought, if I looked like a carbon copy of Bob Marley. The conversations where interesting and much was lost in translation, but the island life in a bungalow was definitely something to be envious of... During the days I explored the beaches, local hot springs and got to see the beautiful Maya Bay and Phi Phi. A lot of sun baking was successfully completed and before I knew it I was sadly leaving to a new spot called, Railay Beach. You can only get to this exclusive area via long tail boat as the towering cliff faces cut off any motor vehicle accessibility. Imogen and I once again found ourselves as regulars at the local "Skunk Bar" - a very chilled rooftop and treetop watering hole, where you sat or laid on mediation pillows and looked out at the beach. At night the surrounding fig trees where illuminated with lights and the bartender was making regular trips upstairs to deliver cocktails and see if anyone "wanted to get high". This place actually reminded me of my childhood treehouse, the timber floorboards where build around the trunk of a main tree and the deck barely had railings around it. The 2 nights flew by with a mix of more incredible live music, cocktails, beach time and mind blowing fire shows. It was also at beautiful Railay beach that I encountered my first episode with gastro since leaving Australia in May... Friday morning I had eaten the expansive breakfast buffet included at our accommodation. The day went on and it wasn't until 9pm that night, I actually had to leave the bar and my cocktail as I started to feel very strange. Little did I know I was in for 24hrs of hell, the first 10 to be the very worst...It was just vomiting to begin with, to the point where I had nothing left in me, not even vial to bring up - my body was so violently convulsing that I thought I was going to choke. By the early morning any mouthful of water desperately drank was instantly brought back up. And guess what Saturday was? Travel day. Yes, a day that included; a boat, a bus, a van and then an overnight sleeper train...It turns out I wasn't the only person who ate that breakfast buffet to get sick, in fact another 13 people did. I was contemplating blaming the week of cocktail indulgence with all the fresh fruit and juices, but then again I'd been eating fresh local fruit and salads since May and had not had a single issue. Always where you least expect it I guess. To conclude my second adventure in Thailand I had a week to kill between heading to Cambodia, so I decided to spent in at Rambrutti Village. Rambrutti Road is a block or two away from the hectic and crazy Khoa San Road. I must admit, I spent 7 nights there and I think I might be the worlds first backpacker to have had a completely sober time there...Not a single drink, bar or club and I was happy to quietly recuperate and get ready for Cambodia...

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The Golden Triangle!

Moving further north, Lampang was an important trade town during the Dvaravati period (around the 7th century) and was founded by the son of the Queen Chama Devi. Only a night there before continuing further north to Chiang Rai. On the way I spent a day at the Lampang Elephant Conservation Centre. I rode on the back of these majestic animals for the 3rd time in 2 months, which is indefinitely an enchanting experience. If I come back to Thailand, I've decided I would stay with the elephants for a week and train to become a "makeshift" mahout. You literally live with the creatures, bath them, feed them, sleep with them, learn their language and sit around the neck...alone! Finally I arrive in Chiang Saen (the area known as the Golden Traingle) my new home for two nights. Mountains form a natural border between Thailand and Myanmar, while the mighty Mekong River divides Thailand from Laos. I found this area particularly interesting, I'd heard a lot about the opium trade and its devastating effects on the hill tribes of northern Thailand. The region has long been associated with the opium trade, although poppy fields have no given way to vegetable plots - the museum is an incredible walk through of the history and conflict it created. I visited the border town of Mae Sai and experienced local Burmese traders wheeling and feeling more then just their prized jade...rip off designer handbags of all things were everywhere and seemed such a lucrative business... I headed back south to Chaing Mai (which I'd visited previously) and decided I would go to the Tiger Kingdom. I know it's horribly cliched, although after discussing with a local that Chiang Mai's Tiger Kingdom was ethically kept, with no tiger being sedated or drugged and having more of a natural environment vs the inhuman Tiger Temple near Bangkok. Which I learnt, was known for its animal cruelty and complete drugging of tigers...Before I knew it I was arriving early Sunday morning back at Bangkok train station after yet another sleeper train experience. This time round I did however discover the party carriage, yep, a disco tech /bar/nightclub on a train... Packed full of fellow backpackers, this one little carriage was definitely pumping, music blaring and people dancing awkwardly with the off beat motion of the bouncing train. The single toilet at each end of the sleeping train was bad enough to begin with, but just imagine it after a night of people drinking Chang beers...yuck...This was my 5th sleeper train now and I felt somewhat numb and oblivious to the dirtiness and filth that surrounded me.

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The real Northern Thailand...

I felt like I was on some sort of Vietnamese come down or serious withdrawals. I was sad to leave the country and even sadder to arrive back into Thailand. I started to evaluate my planning, wishing I'd spent the next 3 weeks elsewhere, like an extended stay in Vietnam or having longer while in Cambodia or Laos. Needless to say I think I've had enough Thai to last a lifetime...well almost... During this next chapter or round in Thailand, I explored new areas and headed further north then I'd been previously. I wasn't doing a full moon party like I did in June, but I also wasn't doing another volunteer project like last time. This time, I was so excited to journey beyond Chiang Mai, all the way up to Chiang Rai and the famous golden triangle (the meeting point of Burma, Laos & Thailand). Before reaching this area rich with its opium history, there was a long and mundane 4 day local bus trip to endure. Averaging about 5-7hrs per day on the rickety Thai mode of transport, was enough to send anyone insane. We passed through and overnighted at some incredible places though. And again, I wasn't one to be concerned with comfort, as a fully fledged backpacker of over 3 months and counting - I felt well advanced with these kind of situations and perhaps had something on the new comers... Sukhothai and Lampang were the first two destinations heading North from Bangkok. Previously I'd flown from Phuket to Chiang Mai - so I really didn't have a very good understanding of how large the northern part of the country was...Sukhothai is located 450km north and boasts ruins which date back to the mid 13-th century, when the site became the capital of Thailand's first Kingdom. Sukhothai is viewed as representative of the 'Golden Age' of Thai civilisation. The religious art and architecture of the era are considered to be the most classic of Thai styles. The ruins contain the remains of 21 historical sites with awe-inspiring Buddha images and large ponds often filled with stunning lotus flowers in full bloom. It was here that I set out on my Italian vintage bike to explore the remains of this ancient royal realm, which is now one of Thailand's Cultural World Heritage sites.

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Mekong Adventure and finale of the South!

A day of exploring the intricate waterways by long tail boat, whilst visiting small cottage industries, such as bee farming. While sampling the fresh honey/lemon shot of tea, the owner randomly and very casually walked out of the back hut with the worlds largest python around her neck. The beast would have easily been over 3 metres long and the diameter was huge, larger then my thigh!!! There was that brave Aussie spirit shining through once again, willing to give it a go - I let the large snake coil around my neck and shoulders. I lasted a matter of minutes until the snake started applying pressure around my lower back and waistline. What an experience, there was also the offer of drinking Cobra's blood... After lunch on the Mekong and seeing the delicacy "elephant ear" fish, we set off in a Xe Lam (Vietnamese style tuk tuk) to the local home stay. The home stay was a tropical paradise, surround by thick green foliage of all kinds and winding creeks. I spent the afternoon relaxing in hammocks, while sipping on a coconut and watching the life on the river. The sleeping area was all outdoors and consisted of individually raised timber frames with mosquito nets. The next morning I took a boat and bus back to Ho Chi Minh City. The following four nights where spent here and that was my conclusion to a wonderful 3 weeks in Vietnam. During the last couple of nights I really got to experience the nightlife of Saigon, party capital apparently. From the curb side drinking to the strangely enjoyable and trashy Asian techno nightclubs or discos... In retrospect I definitely preferred sitting alongside hundreds of locals, packed in like sardines and balancing carefully on minutiae kiddie stools. While sipping away on cheap local beers, I observed esky usage was key for these venders because they actually didn't operate business inside of any kind of premise or shop or building. Thats how they can afford to be selling 50c beers and $1 spirits... I later discovered this because non of these bar venders or stores actually legally exist, at around 10pm the police turn up and drive slowly down the street, yelling at people to move on...The bar owners become manic, running around ripping out the plastic chairs right from underneath their customers. Good morning and good evening Vietnam, I will no doubt be back!

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