Big Bite Asia

Traveling from Malaysia, Cambodia, to Japan in search of mind-boggling food.

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Gomoku Ramen from Chuka-ya Shokudo, Sendai Station Building, Sendai, Japan

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Tuna Sashimi, Shiogama, Miyagi, Japan

Shiogama is known for the fresh tuna; they unload more fresh tuna than any other fishing ports in Japan.  I am not a huge tuna fan, but when tuna is fresh, I rather prefer the red part than the fatty toro.  Yes, there is that melt-in-your-mouth sensation that only toro has, but the fresh red tuna sashimi has such delicate texture and the flavor that is incomparable to anything I know.  The umami comes out of every fiber of the flesh and it breaks away so gently.  A piece like this tastes great just with a pinch of salt.  No need for soy sauce and wasabi.

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Eating oysters at home, Watari, Miyagi, Japan

We received these oysters as a gift yesterday.  These were harvested in Shiogama, a major fishing port in Miyagi prefecture.  After the 3-11 quake, most of oyster farmers gave up harvesting, but these folks persevered.  These were beautiful, plump, and juicy.  I often find myself complaining how small oysters are in the US, and you know why...

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Kasutera (castela) from Shokado, Matsushima, Miyagi, Japan

Kasutera was brought to Japan through the port of Nagasaki by Portuguese merchants in the 16th century. The name is derived from Portuguese Pão de Castela, meaning "bread from Castile".  Shokado's kasutera is moist on top, delicate and spongy inside. There is also pleasant grainy texture from sugar from the top layer. I had no idea that Nagasaki speciality was perfected in Matsushima, a small town known for its scenic islands with beautiful pine trees.  

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Soba Lunch Combo, Sarashina, Sendai, Japan

Went to one of the oldest soba restaurants in Sendai, Sarashina, which has been in operation since 1897 (as written on the store sign above). They serve the eponymous style soba, Sarashina.  Japanese soba noodles are normally divided into two categories: Yabu and Sarashina.  Sarashina uses the husked buckwheat resulting in lighter color, whereas the darker Yabu uses unhusked grains.  The soba is cooked sort of al dente, reminding me of the fresh bavette that I ate a long ago made by a Roman friend.  This soba is firm but I was enjoying a feeling of my teeth gradually sinking into the noodles.  It's not like al dente spaghetti that would almost bounce back against the teeth.  A nice subtle flavor of nutty buckwheat fills the mouth while chewing.  The dipping soy-based soba sauce has a nice whiff of bonito broth.  Their lunch set is served with a rice ball and inari sushi, covered with a thin layer of sweetened fried tofu.  Yes, Japanese love their carbs, and this is typical lunch here....

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Home cooked meal: Hokki (Surf Clam) Meshi (Rice), Silver Cod & Blow Fish Saikyo-yaki, Eggplants with Shiso (Japanese mint), Mentaiko (spicy cod roe)

Homecooked meal with great seafood and fish. My parents have been ordering their fish from a seller based in Fukuoka, who has been very generous and kind beyond their business practice.  After the infamous earthquake in 2011, they have called them and offered them some free items.  Their marinated fish is fantastic; saikyo-yaki uses sweet white miso known as saikyo miso, and it is so easy to overdo it and hard to balance the sweet and salty flavors.  Their marination is mild, sweet enough and the fish melts in the mouth.   The fugu (blowfish) came out crispy outside and tender inside.  Hokki-meshi, is a local favorite from Watari region, just south of Sendai.  The surf clams and rice are cooked separately to avoid overcooking; clams have to be cooked just enough so that they still retain the moisture and flavor.  Rice has about 10% of mochi rice (stickier than the regular Japanese rice) mixed in so that the rice comes out with a good hearty texture.  These are the things I have missed from being away from home....

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Tetsunabe (cast iron pan) Chahan (fried rice) combo with Chuka Soba (ramen) at Korakuen, Miyagi, Japan

Korakuen used to be known in Tohoku region where I grew up as Aizuppo Ramen in the 80's. Aizu is in Fukushima prefecture, on the opposite side of these misfortunate nuclear reactors.  Little did we know the company which started in the mid 50's in a little town in Tohoku would grow to be one of the largest ramen chain restaurants in the country by the 90's, and they are still offering their basic ramen for mere 290 yen (roughly $2.90 US).  I remember a bowl of ramen used to go for about ¥300-350 when I was a kid in the early 80's, so nowadays this is crazy cheap.  I was skeptical about the quality after they had become so popular, but their ramen proved to be still solid, if nothing special.  I feel in this day and age, where there are so many fancy bowls of ramen around, it is rather comforting to have a very basic bowl of soy-sauce based shoyu ramen with basic ingredients (a few small slices of roast pork, nori, bamboo shoots, negi) which used to be known first as Chuka or Shina Soba (Chinese Noodles). Until mid-20th Century, there were no miso ramen (originated in Hokkaido in the 60's) or pork-bone based tonkotsu ramen (originated in Kyushu in the 40's but took some time to gain popularity nationwide) in the northeast Japan where I grew up.   Miso and Tonkotsu flavor were still considered novel back then.  Only recently ramen has basically become THE national dish of Japan, but many used to believe it was really a Chinese dish as late as 1980's.  Now most people know ramen was pretty much a Japanese invention, but I'm guessing that this touch of exoticism certainly helped this dish to gain popularity in its early days.  

Their Fried Rice/Ramen combo is ¥650.  Rice is served on a sizzling iron pan on a bed of very soft omelet.  The waiter advises us to pour the special sauce and stir, and the egg continues to cook as it gets mixed with rice.  Again, the flavor is very basic, but somehow it feels right.   

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Shanmah Tsukemen, Chuka-ya Shokudo Min Pan Tin, Sendai Station, Sendai, Japan

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Sumibi (charcoal grilled) Chicken Mayo Don from Suki-ya, Kanto International Airport, Osaka, Japan

After having travelled all day from Siem Reap via Kuala Lumpur arriving at Osaka at 11 pm, my first meal in Japan was at Suki-ya, a large chain restaurant serving Japanese fast food.  After skipping all the menu items provided by Air Asia (I was not going to spoil my food memories from Malaysia and Cambodia by some substandard nasi lemak onboard), I was worried that no restaurants would be open at 11 pm at KIX.  Who was I kidding???.....this is Japan! There is always someone shoving food in your face practically at any time of the day.  Although I was skeptical to try the 24-hour Suki-ya in the airport,  I was pleasantly surprised by their offerings and the pricing.  Unlike many chain restaurants which seem to feel justified to hike up their prices in airports (and maybe they do have a good reason), Suki-ya offers the same items at their regular prices.  At first, a bed of rice covered with chopped scallions topped with teriyaki chicken, dressed with mayo and raw egg (optional as seen on top left) seem like a crazy combination, but the mustard-infused mayo sauce, finely chopped scallions, and sweet teriyaki sauce, all complement each other.  Less than $7.00 for all this?  By no means this is a fine dinning, yes, this is equivalent of eating at Denny's in the US...but certainly it made me happy after a full day of traveling, and I must say Suki-ya is a whole lot better than Denny's, unfortunately.  Who said traveling in Japan was expensive?

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Fish Amok from Jeanie’s Cafe and Restaurant, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Let's face it.  Fish Amok is not the most photogenic dish.  But it is delightful with custardy texture and creamy flavor with coconut, accented by kefir leaves, chili, and sometimes with lemongrass.  Curiously, it is somewhat close to otak-otak from Malaysia.  Basically they are like distant cousins.  I wonder fish custard is common in all of southeast Asia....

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Beef with Lemongrass and Pumpkin Curry with Chicken from Psa Chas, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Reminded by my own father that Japanese word for pumpkin 'kabocha' comes from 'Cambodia,' I decided to try pumpkin curry at a local low-key restaurant Psa Chas.  The place has an extensive selection, each item being no more than $3-4.  Cambodian dishes are subtle and mild, and the pumpkin curry is no exception.  The beef with lemongrass is also well put together.  It's like dining in a family kitchen.  Good comfort food.

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Tel Aviv Wrap from Vego Salad Bar, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I was pleasantly surprised by the international culinary scene in Phnom Penh.  I just had a wonderful plate of Tagliatelle with shrimp the night before, and next day I was enjoying a perfectly dressed Falafel sandwich with humus and tahini that compares to Mamoun’s in New York or Amir in Montreal.  Is this trend there to stay?  I certainly would hope so.

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Banana Flower Salad and Khmer Vegetable Curry from Haven, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Haven proudly serves contemporary Khmer-Asian cuisine all made from local ingredients, and they train underprivileged youths in food business.  Not only that, the food is quite well-done.  The banana flower salad was a delight to eyes and perhaps less striking to the palate, but the veggie curry was definitely fresh in its flavor combinations with lime and extra tamarind sauce.   A wonderful ambience, and it is nice that the place is away from the cacophonic Pub Street that reminded me of New Orlean's Bourbon Street somewhat (less crazy, but certainly as cheesy).  Great humanitarian concept, great food.

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Profiterol, Exotic Fruit Salad, and Chocolate Mousse with Baileys, from Eclipse Sky Bar, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

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Crab with Green Peppercorn Sauce from Kimly Restaurant, Kep, Cambodia

Kep, a coastal town in south of Cambodia, is known for their crabs and fresh pepper corn.  This dish is really the match made in heaven of these two fresh local ingredients.  The sauce makes use of the tamale from the crab, making it rich and creamy.  The restaurant has a fantastic ocean view to boot.

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Pepper Corn Shrimp from Kampot, Cambodia

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Fish Amok from Khmer Surin, Phnom Penh.  Above right is a milk fruit.

First day in Phnom Penh.  My friend from childhood takes me to rather fancy Khmer Surin.  It is interesting to try Fish Amok after having eaten Otak-otak in Penang, considering they are both known as "fish custard."(Asia Society has a nice video on how to make amok.)   The amok at Khmer Surin was served on a plate, covered in seven small bowls (bottom left) like pudding.  Use of galangal, coconut milk, and lemongrass reminds me of Otak-otak, though there is no kefir this time.  I was expecting something very spicy, but the amok was very subtle and mild. As I was starting to get used to food in Malaysia where most dishes have strong flavors and spices, the dishes at Khmer Surin were much milder, reminding me somewhat of Japanese cuisine.