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Jules of Nature

#extradirty

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he wasn't even looking at me and he found me
The Bowery Presents
$LAYYYTER
YOU ARE THE REASON
untitled

titsay
TVSTRANGERTHINGS
trying on a metaphor

blake kathryn
EXPECTATIONS
cherry valley forever
noise dept.
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Andulka

gracie abrams
Claire Keane

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@birdn4t0r-art
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TBchoi!!! Drawing tips LIVE STREAM ON TWITCH https://www.twitch.tv/tbchoi
Vietnamese fashion timelines (click to enlarge)
By Nancy Duong.
Thank you, @ars-historia-est!
hey guys how's it goin time to make a girl cry
Here it is, my long winded tutorial, complete with some step by step action. I see a lot of people talk about wanting to diversify their artwork but not knowing how. This is my help to you. You really should take the time to invest in learning diverse eye shapes as diverse artwork always makes you a better artist. And frankly I’m really tired of drawing tutorials that talk up character diversity but only have the stereotypical “one Asian eye”.
I did some step by steps for those three diagrams, but I actually got them from this blog which has 14 of those examples! (Bonus: it’s a makeup blog so if you need help with that or want some idea of how to shade these eyes, there ya go)
Fantastic hands references by the website Hong14cafe.
Hong14cafe: Facebook | Forum
Hand reference yessss!!
merry holidays
based on that one mariah carrie song
Phoneme Chart by TheEndIsNearUs
This is a nice chart! Lipsync is one of my not-so-secret passions. I also hate front mouths. They’re harder to inbetween, I find, and they’re not used nearly as frequently. Here’s some ¾ mouths I made.
These are the basic shapes I was taught, and I use. Standard lipsync shapes;;
You have your closed mouth to open, to clenched teeth, to oohs, and your (often optional) F, L, and TH mouths.
Tips!
Your top teeth don’t move; I mean, stylistically it happens sometimes (Gravity falls does it fairly well, as much as I haaaaate that), but your lipsync will prolly look better if they don’t.
My clenched teeth (SH) mouth is always a bit wider than my biggest AH mouth. It adds variation and helps your shapes blend more nicely. Conversely, my biggest AH mouth is narrower than my SH mouth and my closed (M) mouth.
My L mouth is a tiny bit more closed than my biggest AH, and not as closed as my second biggest AH. It fits between them nicely so that if you have to go from an L to an AH mouth, like you would for the word “Like” or “Love”, it doesn’t pop or look weird.
My R and oo mouths move forward on the face a bit, it adds dimension, and if you leave it all in the same place and have the mouth just shrink into a circle it miiiight look weird.
Aaaaand I think that’s it? Never go from a SH mouth to a TH mouth, it’ll pop and look weird…uhhh; Also! It’s alright to skip some shapes;; So below is a lipsync I made using the above shapes;
It’s clear what they’re saying, the mouth is moving nicely, but there’s only one problem. Veeeery rarely do they give you enough time to use all the mouths you want to make it move nice. Voice actors talk fast to fit everything in and holycrap do we hate love them for it.
So here’s a fast one.
Those two gifs should start at the same time, and notice that the second one stops while the first one is still saying “doing”. I not only cut out the mouth between the biggest AH and the clenched teeth, but I combined the word “Are you” into, like, 3 shapes. I also trimmed some inbetweens overall. The lipsync still reads, though! You can still tell what they’re saying even without audio (which would help it a bit, haha~) Cutting out that stuff ended the lipsync a whole 14 frames sooner (more than half a second!). It doesn’t sound like much, but with 24 frames per second and dialogue moving at the speed of light, you don’t have time to dilly dally. This isn’t a preschool show;; Aaaaaand I think that’s it. Liiiipsyyyyyync~~~ Now to go back to actual work and stop talking about things most ppl don’t care about;
I AM CRYING TEARS OF RELIEF BECAUSE I NEED THESE REFERENCES FOR MY SENIOR FILM’S DIALOGUE~
Reblogging this again because I’ve been using this reference for the last 2 months to help with my lip-synch in my film, and I’ve just tested one scene where I used the reference…And my mouth-drawings have improved tenfold ever since.
To the OP who made this chart…I wish I could hug you right now because you helped make my film look much better. c8
This post makes its rounds every so often;; I’m glad people are getting use out of me not wanting to do the actual work I had!
Color Synonyms
White
also: pale; blanched; sallow; pallid; waxen; spectral; translucent; albino;
Grey
also: dust; stone; pepper;
Black
also: coal; slate; dusky; ebon; shadow; murky;
Tan
also: flesh; khaki; cream; tawny;
Brown
also: henna; russet; sepia; chestnut; cocoa; drab; bronze;
Red
also: terracotta ; rouge; carmine; fire-engine; ruddy
Orange
also: pumpkin ; rust ;
Yellow
also: sunny; amber; saffron; hay; straw; platinum;
Green
also: viridescent; grass; jade; forest;
Blue
also: turquoise; cyan; ultramarine; royal; aqua; aquamarine;
Purple
also: berry; amaranthine;
Pink
also: flushed; candy; cherry blossom; petal pink ;
—– source: http://ingridsundberg.com/
—–additional synonyms added by me
I will forever cherish this post. I’ve seen it a multiple of times; how foolish of me to not reblog this masterpiece the first time I see it UGH
Do you have any tips on digital lineart and/or digital painting? I’m practicing on ibisPaint X and was wondering if you had any wisdom to part.
Hey there! I tag all of my art stuff under #art reference . You’ll find step by step processes of some of my works in addition to full tutorials, tips, and other answered asks there. I also sometimes post wip vids to my Instagram @sameside1301
I’ve recently answered a couple of questions that you can find in there on just general wisdom with painting/drawing (how long it takes me, how to use references, etc.).
That said, some tips I shared with a friend recently…
Note that my program is Procreate, but most art programs have analogous tools and brushes.
For lineart:
I see a lot of new artists start out with using brushes like these two, monoline and fine tip:
The names are inconsequential - they differ programme to programme. Just pay attention to the shape and oppacity. They’re solid; they have no pen pressure or tapering or flow. This makes the lines stiff and one dimensional; they appear to end abruptly which is…. generally unappealing.
Try using brushes shaped like this instead:
Brushes that taper at the edges, like studio pen, will provide better contrast and guide the eyes. The lines will be more natural and provide better differentiation between the start and end points. Personally, I use the one below it called hard airbrush. Note that while it doesn’t have taper, it does have opacity, which can achieve the same affect in conjuncture with pen pressure.
For painting and lineart, these are the brushes I typically use:
I get asked about anatomy a lot, in addition to how to get such smooth, stable lines. One little trick I used when I first started drawing was a silhouette method. Since I’ve got uhhhhhhhhlotofhours under my belt now with drawing I don’t tend to need this method any more, but when starting out, I found it extremely helpful. I still rely on this method for paintings, just not for lineart.
I start with a colorblock just to get the basic flow of the picture out. from there, i erase or add to fill in details, and keep working until the silhouette resembles the idea that I have in mind. Once I’m satisfied that the anatomy is correct and the pose is proportional and the flow/pose feels interesting, I trace the silhouette. Then I add in the central details. Its way easier to just zoom in and mindlessly trace the silhouette than to struggle with perfecting the lines and proportions from the start! This also ensures smooth lines because you’re not having to try and redraw and recorrect the same line five hundred times.
This can also be useful if you don’t have a pose in mind already. You can just scribble out a blob and go hey that looks… vaguely like an elephant…. and then come up with an interesting and unique elephant. I’ve heard of a lot of artists using this method for art block.
This also helps with something I’ll refer to as “white space distortion” for lack of a better term. When you’re doing lining, the white space of your canvas will make everything seem wider or “fatter” than it actually is - its the same concept as how a room painted with a lighter color will appear larger than a room painted black. A dark room can feel claustrophobic. So keep this in mind when working on a lineart. By using a colorblock, you’re directly projecting the shape as a silhouette and ensuring your brain is properly processing the proportions. This distortion happens most often to me with heads!! Whenever I draw a head it comes out bigger than what would be directly proportional, because I’m referencing it from a full-color screenshot! If I started on a head silhouette, I would know that its already proportional! But instead, I just have to adjust it afterwards to suit the body!
When painting, if you have a liquify tool - that will be your best friend!! I frequently use the “push” aspect of the liquify tool to adjust things… moving the bridge of a nose ever so slightly higher, widening the corner of an eyelid, etc. using this ensure I don’t have to repaint the same portion of a face over and over and over again until I get it to be perfectly proportional / perfectly located.
pls post my korks i beg of u
just some despairing kork sprite edits
these are all just fixes for some old ones i posted lol
Anatomy Quick Tips — Ft. Feet by Astrikos This one was highly requested. Planning to do some of the others soon. Instagram | DeviantArt| Art Tutorial Tumblr
Will try to do more of the very highly requested ones in the upcoming days. (Hands, legs, torso - suggestions welcome)
Please consider reblogging/following @astrikos to support @art-res. I really appreciate your support!! ❤️
More Links: Ask a Question/Request a Tut | Submit a Tutorial | Promote Your Art Commissions to +18.3 K Dashes | Stay Updated on DeviantArt! | Visit me @astrikos | Buy Me a Coffee
[pixiv] [part 2]
Now that’s a kickass tutorial on how to develop your hair technique!
This is good tutorial
july ‘19 vs september ‘19
so here’s a tiny tutorial about light reflections (i’m no expert though!!)
the drawing made in july is lacking on light reflections
the one done in september looks much better since i paid attention to them
Also remember that the intensity of the lighting depends on the material on which it is reflected, eg. glass / metal / fabrics etc. Glossy surfaces reflect the lighting more than matte surfaces
another example:
being a self-taught artist with no formal training is having done art seriously since you were a young teenager and only finding out that you’re supposed to do warm up sketches every time you’re about to work on serious art when you’re fuckin twenty-five
someone: oh yeah, do this exercise during your warm ups! it’ll help
me: my what
What’s up I have an actual college degree in art and I was never ONCE taught to do warm ups.
when i was in undergrad, it was kind of mentioned in and offhand way that we should do warmups, but we were never shown what that meant. And, y’know, we were young so it didn’t matter so much.
Being older now and having an art job it’s…kind of essential.
So: a quick primer for those of you who are like ‘ok but how do i actually go about doing this warmup thing.’
1) you may be tempted to do ‘a warmup drawing’ which is just a drawing that will take longer than it needed to and probably be frustrating and kind of bad because you didn’t warm up first. It’s tempting but always a trick your brain is playing on you! Do not trust!
2) warmups will vary based on what feels good to you/what task you’re about to do/what motor skills you want to practice. That being said, some good standbys:
a) circles. Just a whole page of circles on whatever drawing surface you’re going to be using, whether that’s your tablet or your sketchbook or a drawing pad on an easel. For these circles you should make sure that you’re drawing from your shoulder and not your wrist. In fact, you want to be drawing from your shoulder rather than your wrist most of the time! forever! your wrist is delicate please preserve it!
In order to ensure that you’re drawing from your shoulder, when you’re holding your pencil or whatever drawing tool you’re using, the only part of your hand that should be touching the drawing surface is part of the last two fingers–some people prefer the finger tips, but I tend to favor the first knuckles. Either way, the fingers should really be ghosting over the surface, providing guidance rather than support.
I usually start with big circles and then go to smaller circles and lines of ellipses, and then try to fit circles and ellipses inside other shapes i’ve already drawn as a precision exercise, but i don’t do that unless i’m feeling loose
b) spirals! i don’t always do spirals, but if i’m stiff and the circles just aren’t cutting it, spirals are a good fall back. I start from the center and work outward, going both clockwise and counterclockwise until i feel comfortable with the whole range of motion. Some people really care about getting perfect spirals but for me it’s all about making sure i’m comfortable with how i’m moving so who really even cares about how the spirals look. Not me!
c) lines! straight lines! in parallel! i do a mix of vertical, horizontal, and diagonal. These are often more from the elbow than the shoulder, especially if I’m working on a smaller surface. For this exercise, I recommend holding the drawing tool perpendicular with the surface
d) connect the dots. This is a precision and accuracy exercise and takes two forms. The first is to draw two dots and then draw a straight line between them. The second is to draw three dots and draw the curve that connects them. This sounds a lot simpler than it is in practice. Take time to ghost over the line you plan to draw before actually committing to your line. (I don’t always remember where I picked up my warm up exercises, but I’m pretty sure I got this one from Scott Robertson. His how to draw and how to render books are very technical but also accessible and worth checking out)
e) cubes, spheres, cones, and cylinders. These help get your brain into a more volumetric space. I draw multiples of each, rotating the forms around, and I’ll often take the time to do some rough shading on at least a few of them
f) spidermans! This one is really good if you’re going to be storyboarding or working on dynamic poses. Just fill a page full of spidermans doing all sorts of acrobatics.
g) beans. I don’t do beans too much anymore, but I know a lot of people like it so I’m mentioning it here. Fill an area with different size bean shapes without lifting your pencil off the paper.
h) short medium and long line repetition. draw a short, medium, and long line on your page, and then draw directly on top of them 8 to 12 times, doing your best to exactly trace what you’ve already drawing. Repeat with a wavy line. I’m bad at this one, which means I probably need to do it more.
And there are lots more options too! Hit up youtube to see what other people recommend, put together your own go-to list, mix it up when you’re getting bored, etc.
This is a long list, I know, but I usually don’t take more than 10 to 15 minutes to warm up, and I can warm up one handed while I’m drinking coffee, so, multitasking hurrah.
Sometimes I’ll advance to a precision warmup and find that I haven’t loosened up enough yet; it’s totally ok to go back to an earlier exercise! Also, all of this has the added benefit of kind of ritualistically getting you into the drawing mode so even if I’m not feeling it before I start, by the time I’ve gotten to the end I’m usually Ready For Drawin’. Brain hacks.
so, yeah! that’s a lot of words, but! Warmups are important! Save your joints, take less advil, do better drawings!
OP TEACH ME HOW TO COLOR EYES
SORRY THIS TOOK SO LONG i don’t know why