New Orleans, Louisiana
New Orleans stinks. Literally. It's a fabulous place, but my word, the smell.
I wasn't a huge fan of the place the first day we were here. It was hot as the devil's armpit, and wet. The atmosphere feels very much like what I'd imagine walking into someone's mouth would feel like. Warm, moist, close, and smelly. The streets of the French Quarter are narrow and feel crowded with all the shops and people. Yet, there's something instinctively endearing about the place. New Orleans is the odd kid who your squad glances sideways at. She's different, maybe even a little dangerous, but give her a chance and you'll fall in love, quite by accident. Under the heavy odor of piss, river water, and sweat, there's the distinct scent of espresso and incense, old books, fried food, and weathered wood. This is a city with confidence and a personality her own. There's something in the air here that makes you want to do things that you're normally too uptight to do. In the words of my elderly aunt, "The food here helps you shit out the stick up your ass."
If you're into pagan or wiccan things, there's tons of places to get your palms or tarots read. For music lovers, this is your city. You can't walk fifty feet without encountering a street musician or four. Bourbon Street is a big deal. The word that goes around is that one needs to be drunk to enjoy it, but frankly, I was stone cold sober and had a blast watching the wasted, overweight vacationers dance with wild abandon. There’s music on Bourbon Street, too, but it’s almost commercialized. There’s no...soul, I guess. The aforementioned random street musicians are the ones who do the city proud, in this blogger’s opinion.
The cafes here feature rich food and drink, as well as local art. I'm not one of those bullshit bloggers who dig for meaning in every chintzy piece of art just because that's what travel bloggers are supposed to do, but I can tell you that the majority of the art here is just as spicy and dynamic as the city itself. You can't find a single square foot of surface that could be described as "bland". The sidewalks are treacherous for those foolish enough to wear heels. Many of the rebuilt shops use reclaimed wood and salvage from Katrina. Every brick has its own story. I've never been in an American city where it's so difficult to find a chain store. Small businesses are the soul of this place. Very like the theoretical odd kid, New Orleans has her scars and her baggage. She's reliably unpredictable and loveable because of it. Some might say that she shows off her weirdness too much, but it makes her who she is. I submit to you that she doesn't show it off--she just doesn't hide it like the rest of us. Because she's okay with who she is, and she doesn't need our approval.
Here are some of the places I really enjoyed, for anyone stopping by.
EnVie Espresso Bar and Cafe, located on Decatur St. The espresso is light and acidic, and the baristas are efficient but effable.
Bottom of the Cup Tea Room, located on Chartres St. Also offers fortune-telling services and a wide selection of spell candles and tarot cards. Run by a sweet, knowlegable elderly lady. Features unique blends like Grand Mariner Black Tea, and Bourbon St Vanilla Rooibos.
Cake Cafe and Bakery, located on Chartres St. Upscale breakfast and pastry shop, with absolutely amazing food and fresh squeezed fruit juices. Apparently they're known for their cupcakes, but I don't like cake so I didn't think they were all that spectacular.
The Ruby Slipper, several locations. I went to the one on Magazine Street. Orgasmic brunch. Like, for real. Don’t skip this place.
1000 Places to See Before You Die
1 down, 999 to go