Chicago Gourmet

Bon Vivant {bon vee vahnt} A person who lives luxuriously and enjoys food and drink

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We've Moved!

CG is undergoing construction and we're in a new location. Upgrades, updates, renovation, innovation promised! 

TheChicagoGourmet.com

Thanks for following along!

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CG is going green, Happy Earth Day!

In following with today's "holiday," Earth Day, I thought I'd share a link to the Trib's list of 17 green restaurants in and around our city.

While most people don't observe earth day, ie- plant a tree, pick up trash, write a letter to your local congressman about how your beach is so polluted most of the days it's shutdown due too looming e. coli threats, it would be advisable to at least be choosy about where you eat this weekend. It gives you purpose for your choice and sparks conversation.

Scroll through the list and see what surprises you. What caught my eye was the dining room at Kendall college, it looks almost whimsically romantic with a great view of the city lights, who knew? CG is looking into it. Also, kudos to Paul Kahan and the Avec/Blackbird troop for their eco-friendly ways.

http://www.chicagotribune.com/travel/chicago/ct-chicago-s-green-restaurants-pg,0,3724550.photogallery

On a side note, I'm looking forward to Easter and sticking with the green theme. Brunch will be at Green Zebra. It's the acclaimed vegetarian and vegan-focused sister of Spring in Bucktown. Full report to come.

http://www.greenzebrachicago.com/menu_brunch.html

Daily Deal: If you go to Starbucks with an empty tumbler or mug they'll give you a cup of joe for free. Thanks Mama Earth!

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A critical eye: GT Fish & Oyster

Head Chef: Giuseppe Tentori

531 N. Wells st {Wells + Grand}

[phone]

Impressive. Rustic. Seductive. Well-rounded. Worth the wait. Tentori's manifesto is articulated to perfection in each bite: appreciation for fish and seafood divine.

The Boka group struck gold with GT Fish & Oyster. The menu is divided into two long columns, hot and cold. I loved the idea of diverging dishes into their most basic state, it made decisions and ordering effortless. I suggest start cold, end warm. From the fresh east and west coast oysters, to the detail-oriented service, to the final bite of your piping hot sturgeon, GT shines. Of everything I ate there was only 1 dud and 1 criticism; regardless GT just sky rocketed to top the of my favorite restaurants in Chicago. Every high hope I had was met or surpassed.

The energy of GT was buzzing, as expected from a hot new opening, but this buzz is sure to stay. Ornate touches like the tangled lighting fixture featured above the front table is composed of rope, antique lanterns, and various nautical items; truly beautiful. Oil paintings of nineteenth century ships line the clean white walls. Take a closer look, most of the paintings have a "GT" cleverly added somewhere on the canvas. A sophisticated, Cape Cod-esque decor compliments the seafood focused experience.

{GT's own Burn oyster sauce. Spicy and tangy, goes well with PEI oysters}

{Miso glazed cod. Delicate clean components made this subtle dish very tasty and memorable}

{BBQ Eel with wasabi and lettuce. MUST TRY, it was delicious}

{Crab cake. Safe, actually I'd go as far as calling it bland. Pass}

{Sturgeon with lentils and carrots. The lentils were overly salty, otherwise the fish was perfect, it retained an incredible smoky, pepper taste}

{The lovely snapper ceviche with edamame beans and black nori. The fish was terrific; the light vinaigrette made this dish cohesive. The zesty vinaigrette brought balance and an acidic asian influence}

{Ahi tuna tacos. Gives Mercadito a run for their money. Only thing that would have made these better is adding an element of crunch. The texture came off a tad too mushy}

Price point is middle to high, as expected from fine dining and seafood. All in all, awesome food and experience. Hopefully I'll be returning sooner than later. 

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Kanela Breakfast Club

3231 N. Clark ave {Clarke + S. of Aldine}

[phone]

Tired of the same 'ol homemade pancakes and eggs? I am. Thank god I tried Kanela. I was pleasantly surprised with how great this brunch spot is. The baked potatoes side was top notch and most memorable. These potatoes were easily in the top 5 for what our city has to offer. Crisp, petite, baked with fresh herbs, and not at all greasy.

It's easy to say the turnover from Orange to Kanela (Greek word translating to cinnamon) was a great move. Kanela will please all brunch-goers but serves up classics with an international spin. All of the brunch fair has hints of Greek flavors scattered throughout their options, think freshly whipped feta, fresh basil, and loads of colorful peppers. Lamb at breakfast? Sure why not? Get a freshly baked pastry served with Julius Meinl coffee, sit back and enjoy a great brunch. 

The service was timely and warm. Kanela is an urban safe-haven for a relaxed meal after a long, hustle-bustle weekend. My date brought the Sunday Trib, normally I'd be perturbed by the absence of conversation, instead I enjoyed the Living section, (for food and dining of course) my tall cup of coffee, and my ham and cheese crepes. 

{Ham and Cheese crepe with chives and herbed baked potatoes}

{Spicy feta omelette with whipped feta, red onion, red chili pepper, tomato, and toast. When they say spicy, listen up, this isn't for the faint of heart}

What I'd go back for:

The coffee

The great service and affordable price

The portobello benedict

Stuffed french toast with greek yogurt, berries, and an apple-jalapeno chutney

If I was feeling very indulgent, the bacon waffle with chocolate bacon, bourbon caramel, and bacon dust

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CG review to come: GT Fish and Oyster

Things I'm looking forward to include seeing a new side to Giusseppi Tentori's fantastic palate, the completely renovated space, and the unending list of drool-worthy items to try. My predicted highlights are the tuna poke, lobster roll, shrimp bruschetta (all cold), miso glazed cod, stuffed squid with chorizo, and/ or braised octopus with a spicy polenta (all hot). 

And of course, oysters galore. If GT is half as good as Boka, we'll have a keeper.

I'll return to you with photos and feedback!

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Just opened: Bridge Bar

315 N. La Salle Dr. {Above Fulton's at La Salle + the river}

[phone]

Fulton's on the River spearheads a new cocktail/bar lounge with traditional bar food composed of high quality product and refined flavors. Freshly chucked oysters, flatbreads, salads and burgers are on the menu. The zany drink list conceived in Chicago's first "cocktail kitchen" boasts some interesting concoctions like beef jerky vodka in the Bull Shot and Slim Jim infused bourbon. Expect the unexpected.

The views are promising; nothing can compare to looking down the Chicago River and the stunning architecture lined along the way. Casual yet romantic Bridge Bar is ideal for an out of towner.

To see what they've got go here: http://tastingtable.com/recipe/BridgeBar_Menu_tastingtablechi.pdf

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A critical eye: Paris Club

Head Chef: Jean Joho

59 W. Hubbard ave {Hubbard + West of Dearborn}

[phone]

If you love Hub 51, just a stones throw away, the odds are good for developing a penchant for the Melmans' revamped French hot spot Paris Club. Loud, crowded, sultry, and brimming with the souped-up River North crowd, Paris Club manages to deliver another cookie cutter culinary experience.

As a self-titled epicurean, I can validate that the ambiance is cliché if not a human French eat-a-thon factory, but the food maintains some real stand-outs. The escargot bourguignonne wrapped in a light puff pastry was a wonderful way to usher in the French fair to come. How can you go to a French restaurant and not try the snails? Unheard of. Country pâté was delicious while the foie gras and short rib pressé was on the salty side and lacked in aesthetics on the plate. Onto the pinnacle of the meal: the paper-bag snapper. It's divine. It's light yet substantial, served with fresh lemon, fennel, and olives; it exudes Bourgeoisie class.

Overall this is a leap, not a step, up from its predecessor Brasserie Jo. French fair is appetizing, accessible, and Paris Club does a great job at diversifying pretentious French food. However, I question Paris Club's staying power once the craze to try it dies down. I have an inclination it will turn into Brasserie Jo the sequel.

{The scene in the gigantic dining room}

{A quiet spot at the bar}

{pork rillettes with dijon,fine herbs, and pickles}

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Best affordable eats: Urban Belly

Head Chef: Bill Kim

3053 N. California ave {California + Barry}

[phone]

 A short trans-city car ride seems like a voyage across land and ocean with a big pay off when you arrive at the hidden gem of the far east, asian infusion street-chic cuisine that is Urban belly. Bare walls convey a serious and almost somber temperament; vitality and grandeur is restored with the long communal tables and seating made of ancient Indonesian fishing ship wood.

Bill Kim's method for dining is as easy as it gets: bring your own beverage, place your order, take a number, grab a seat, enjoy, repeat. The menu is a diverse smathering of Asian influences and flavors, with an emphasis on dumplings and noodles in well melded, warm broths. The pho is outstanding, I would go back a hundred times over just for that unique taste. Reverence is paid to the heritage of this 1950's born Vietnamese staple in a delicate and bold manner. A refreshing replacement to over publicized and consumed Chicago sushi spots, Urban belly is an escape to the Orient without the Japonais/ Takashi pricetag.

Another likable quality: 9 times out of 10 Bill Kim or his wife will be there to greet or thank you for coming in.

{#4 Duck and Pho spices}

{#12 Urbanbelly ramen with pork belly, shiitake, and pho broth}

{#14 Asian egg noodles stir fried with spicy, real spicy, garlic chili, tofu and chinese egg plant}

{Sticky, gummy citrus candy from Vietnam}

Who to Bring

A date

Your hipster friend(s)

Anyone on a budget

Anyone in a don't leave my neighborhood to eat out rut

Give it a try

#11 udon shrimp, coriander, in a sweet chili lime broth

#7 pork belly and pineapple rice

#5 pork and cilantro dumpling

#3 Asian squash and bacon dumpling

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Next and Aviary

http://www.nextrestaurant.com/

Mark your calendars: April 6, 2011 Next opens. Only 15,000 other people requesting notifications for tickets... good luck!

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Hubbard Inn part deux

I can safely say that Hubbard Inn got under my skin and tapped new heights of frustration. I booked a party of 10 for a special occasion, a birthday that I was in charge of. While our party was complete 10 minutes past 8, we weren't seated until 9:10pm. On a Thursday. They were aware and acknowledged it was a special occasion more than a week ahead of time.

After drinking one too many Hemingway daiquiris at the bar while my party wasted away and was starting to get that funny look in their eye, we were seated. Our compensation? A round of free drinks from the manager, exactly what we didn't need.

The manager and hostesses weren't accommodating, organized, or pleasant. They couldn't even keep a reservation. If I ever do go back it will be with extreme caution. I would not advise booking a party here under any circumstance, this virgin bar doesn't have their act together. 

No thanks.

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It's a Feast!

Feast Restaurant + Bar

Bucktown: 1616 N. Damen ave Gold Coast: 25 E. Delaware place

  [phone]     [phone]

Bustling city streets like Damen and Michigan ave have a satisfying, contemporary dining haven. Dinner, lunch, and brunch will please even the most picky of eaters, guaranteed. An entire gluten-free menu with healthy alternatives, pitcher cocktails, fantastic salads, oversized burgers, and much more, Feast Restaurant + Bar's got it all. This is my go to brunch spot when places like Toast, Nookies, or the next hot thing's got a line 5 miles long. 

I'll admit I have an affinity for brunch here, although I've done dinner. It's not the same experience, Feast becomes a bit stale. It's as if all you want for dinner is a steak with potatoes and all the menu can deliver is steak and eggs... go for brunch.

On the upside, Feast is incredibly inviting. In either outpost you get the sense that you're walking into someone's colorful dining room. The service varies but tends to be prompt and friendly. Also, with most meals running you between $10-$15 it's very affordable.

Find yourself loving it? Take advantage of the daily specials, 1/2 bottles of wine to go, and delivery.

If you have time go next door to the Goddess and the Grocer, it's a miniature Dean and Deluca. Handpicked jarred goods (salsas, jams, pesto, marinara, cookies, etc.) and wine flown in from across the country, pungent coffee, and a diverse deli & bakery make Goddess hip and heavenly. Every time I pay a visit I dream about hosting the perfect picnic along the lake or Millennium Park, as everything I would ever need is there with that wow factor. Lets just say, I wish I had one on my corner. 

{Feast in Bucktown}

{Goddess and the Grocer in Bucktown}

{Build your own omelet with crisp potatoes}

{Easy Lox, smoked salmon toasted bagel, cream cheese, sliced tomatoes, red onion, lettuce, caper and lemon}

Who to bring

Family, picky eater friends, a casual date

Give it a try

Eggs portobello & crab benedict

Garbage omelet

Chopped salad

Grilled chicken club

Blackened fish tacos

Butternut squash ravioli

Sticky Toffee Cake Moist Dates

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Getting my attention: Owen & Engine

Owen & Engine

Head Chef: Charles Burkhardt

2700 N Western ave {Western + Schubert}

[phone]

If you don't want to spring for a flight to cross the pond but are craving traditional english pub food look no further than Owen & Engine. Dark wood, damask wallpaper, and English touches illuminate this anything but ordinary pub. Bar food isn't something difficult to find in Chicago, there's a watering hole on nearly every block. In 99% of the cases the "chef" and brewmaster are tinkering with your standard burgers, fries, and beers. Frozen patties, cheddar, and ketchup on a white bun... frozen potatoes fried and salted... frosty Miller/Bud Light. So typical, so unappealing, what wankers.

Owen & Engine breathes life into the watered-down pub scene and absolutely shines as it pays homage to century old British pubs. The expansive beer and IPA list are outlined well and rotate seasonally; the knowledge our server had was quite impressive as well. The food is what really seals the deal. Heavy proteins are featured in nearly all the menu items ideal for a hearty winter meal. The emphasis on fresh vegetables, garnishes, and herbs makes each dish more well-rounded. 

{The haddock in the fish and chips is remarkably fresh. It's flown in from George Bank in the North Atlantic everyday. The fries were crisp and cut petite, the malt vinegar aioli dipping sauce was so tangy it puts ketchup to shame}

Also recommended but not pictured: The house ground stagel farms beef burger with carmalized onion and house potato bap (A soft white, flat, flour-coated breakfast roll). The bap roll was fluffy and overtly buttery. Butter bun on a giant burger might be pushing the limits of acceptable gluttony. More recommendations for you: the house-made bangers and mash, the roasted beef marrow bones appetizer, bubbles and squeak.  

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Redefining food through literature

Grant Achatz’s (rhymes with rackets) highly anticipated biography was released yesterday. A celebration of the publication took place last night at a small art gallery in Old Town. Achatz’s business partner, Nick Kokonas, left the often austere and cold chef speechless with an exceptional congratulatory gift. Kokonas tracked down and hired mechanics to fully restore and refurbish the Mustang GTO that Achatz worked on decades ago with his father.

With the speedy click of a button thanks to Amazon, my copy will be at my door in the coming week. I can’t wait to get a glimpse into the psyche of the ambitious genius behind Alinea. Among scores of awards and praise, Alinea was recently awarded 3 coveted Michelin stars, one more than Achatz’s self-proclaimed rival, Charlie Trotter’s. Ironically the two restaurant powerhouses are mere blocks away in our very own Lincoln Park neighborhood.

Alinea

Head Chef: Grant Achatz

1723 N. Halsted ave {Halsted + South of Willow}

[phone]

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The perfect pair for a night on the town

...And I'm not talking about winter boots or heels. I'm talking about Sable Kitchen and Bar and Hubbard Inn.

Sable Kitchen and Bar

Head Chef: Heather Terhune

505 N. State street {State +Illinois}

{Sable has an extensive lounge + bar space. The mixologists create a verbose and confusing menu, but offer an easy to follow explanation of the concoctions}

{Bison shortrib sliders with root beer glaze. Two bites (one for diners with mouths the size of Steven Tyler's) of perfection}

{Bacon wrapped dates stuffed with bleu cheese}

Other highlights at Sable were the mini wild mushroom veggie burgers with red onion jam and goat cheese, mini tuna tartar tostadas topped with spicy tomato salsa and meyer lemon crema, and the braised pork belly flatbread covered in apples, melted white cheddar cheese, and chipotle barbecue sauce.

The service was timely, informative and accommodating. Most of the appetizers and small plates come out with 4 of something on a plate (as pictured, see the dates above); our server took note that we were a party of 5 and made the necessary changes to the kitchen so that everything would come out in 5s.

Attempting to navigate the confusing cocktail book, this was not a list- it was a book, on your own is ill-advised. It is virtually impossible to successfully choose on your own cocktail unless you close your eyes and point on a random page. All of the specialty cocktails were generously portioned and well-conceived. A stand-out cocktail was the Hemingway Daiquiri (fruit-like, sweet, yet maintained considerable depth).

Hubbard Inn

110 W. Hubbard ave {Hubbard + North of Clark}

Only 2 blocks away is Hubbard Inn, opened earlier this February. 22 craft beers on tap, a giant cocktail list, and 8,000 square feet of elegantly poised european-esque booths and tables makes for an excellent upscale watering hole. Antique leather bound books, 18th century paintings, and tall wooden chairs inhabit the massive space. Without feeling overcrowded or overdone, attention to detail was mastered. The bartenders were highly skilled and happy to mix-up a taste of something you're unsure of in order to please- despite a line of thirsty patrons. Best part, there's a menu too. I will definitely  be going back. Review to come.

If The Publican and Old Town Social got together, their ideal melding would be Hubbard Inn.

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CG Food Flash: Japonais to lose head chef

After 9 years of loyal service to Japonais in River North, Chef Gene Kato will be pursuing other culinary interests. The executive and founding chef, Jun Ichikawa, will remain in charge of Japonais' kitchen. While the separation is completely amicable, Japonais management acknowledges that finding a worthy replacement will difficult.

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A critical eye: Meli Cafe and Juice Bar

540 N. Wells {Wells + Grand}

[phone]

When you call ahead trying to make reservations and the manager tells you they don't but since you have called beforehand, they'll take your name and you'll only have to wait 5 minutes when your party arrives, don't believe them. Even if the manager gives you his name and takes yours, it's a lie. Chicago brunch is comparable to the lion feeding at the Lincoln Park zoo. Caged and crammed, dehydrated, desperate, and absolutely starving, what do the people that run the show do? They make you wait. And wait. And wait. And wait until you're nearly foaming at the mouth and on the verge of collapsing.

We waited for over an hour when I was promised 5 minutes. If you go to Meli Cafe expect this kind of service. After finally getting seated, our non-existent waitress managed to forget the first thing ordered: coffee. This came about half way through brunch. When our food finally arrived, the runner brought out 1 of the entrees roughly 5 minutes after 9 plates had been served. As voracious as this party was, asking to wait those additional 5 minutes was more than painful. Usually when this happens it's because the order was something that takes longer to cook, not the case, they forgot granola. From the host all the way to paying the check, the service was poor. Since this Meli Cafe location is brand new, it may take some time to get their wait staff in order. Between the uncooked potatoes and horribly generic fries, the sides lacked originality and taste. I got the Veggie omelet, not pictured, which came with provolone cheese. The omelet and cheese was bland and not even ketchup and a splash of hot sauce helped. I'd say skip the omelets here and go for french toast or the crepes.

Every once in a while the battle of brunch is tolerable, but I sure hope they get their service together leaving like a snarling beast was not a pleasant feeling.

{Orange-banana juice blend}

{Orange, Banana, Strawberry with honey juice blend + classic OJ in the background}

{Meli's special omelet, the cactus. Served with has brown potatoes and fresh cantaloupe. The baby red potatoes were exceptionally firm and undercooked. They were far from soft and crispy- like a true hash and omelet combo should be}

{The horseradish- chicken sausage, spinach, portobello, tomato with horseradish infused cheddar}

{Fresh berry crepe with buckwheat}

{Grilled chicken sandwich with lettuce, tomato, Provolone and garlic mayonnaise on our Tuscan bread}

{Turkey Burger. Seasoned white and dark turkey meat patty, topped with grilled zucchini, Roasted red pepper, honey Dijon, and Baby Swiss on a buttery bun}

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Rick Tramonto: My state of mind was that I was going to work. Work was going to become my god. Work was going to become my thing. I was determined to be the best chef that I possibly could be.

She asked: Who were you trying to prove that to? Was it yourself?

Rick Tramonto: I think it was myself. I think it was my dad. I think it was my family.