The nameless people we meet.
I was fed up with the city – the tall buildings, the noise of traffic and trucks, the smokey humid air that mixed with the sweat of people making their way home. Everything about the metro felt fast and available, as if opportunities could knock at your door at any given moment. If you weren’t ready to greet it, you’d miss your chance from a life full of freedom. This hustle-and-bustle I knew too well felt far far away from what rushed over me when we got off the bus at Baler.
It was hot. A mix of cars, tricycles and people filled the streets. You could see famous food joints in the area like Andoks and Mang Inasal, but there were local “eat-all-you-can” buffets for only Php250.00 that sold panglutong bahay and a hearty number of grilled seafood along the main highway of the town. Baler had similar qualities with other provinces around the country, but it had a certain kind of uniqueness to it; it felt like the kind of slow afternoon where the sun lazed its way through the remaining hours of the day. There were animals, neither strays nor pets, that rested at the front of their own self-proclaimed homes. People drank their coffee under the shade, shielded away from the heat of the afternoon haze. Children were challenging their own ingenuity with whatever they could find in their surroundings just so that they could keep playing. Everything felt slow, and it was great.
Kodak ColorPlus200 Photographs by Bradd Gabe; developed by Sunny16 Studios
The beachfront was about a 10-minute tricycle ride away from the bus terminal – but a 20-minute walk to our destination wasn’t a bad choice either, given the availability of sidewalks. We decided to take the leisurely route. I was ready to unravel what this charming town had to share; my analog camera and a pack of film rolls were at my side, waiting to make every shot count.
Kodak ColorPlus200 Photographs by Bradd Gabe; developed by Sunny16 Studios.
There were many buildings that looked old – not the kind of old you would think of as “antique” but closer to worn and abandoned. From what we saw online (when we were planning our out-of-town itinerary), the very same buildings looked new and very much alive in the images on Google, even if they were uploaded not less than 5 years ago. The town was an odd mixture of small storefronts, to abandoned structures, to aged and rusty resorts. Even if there were people who were constantly jumping to the next activity or travel groups lining up for the tour buses to the next site, there was an evident silence from the walls in between the streets. The moss-covered concrete structures have stood the test of time, observing each traveller as they made their way through town.
Kodak ColorPlus200 Photographs by Bradd Gabe; developed by Sunny16 Studios.
It was low tide by the time we got to the beachfront. The shore that graced our feet was cool to the touch, the waves were calm. The surfers and morning beachgoers were all back at their lodging or at a karenderia refuelling for another round. Only a handful of adults were seen in the area, children ran freely rushing from one spot to the next across the beach looking for some kind of mystery beneath the sands. Despite it being a bit past noon, there was an overcast that forced the sun to peek down at us shyly, while the wind from the ocean welcomed us to its shallow warm waters. The horizon stretched beyond our periphery; our view – a graceful blue grey, was nothing but romantic to us.
Kodak ColorPlus200 Photographs by Bradd Gabe; developed by Sunny16 Studios.
My partner and I continued walking down the beachfront in search of a cup of coffee to pair with the view. The farther we went the more abandoned the buildings seemed and the stronger the absence of people felt. We decided to put our trust in Google Maps and followed its directions to the bookmarked café we had in mind. When we arrived at our destination, we were greeted by a bare concrete house and an unkempt backyard. A girl with a pile of long curly hair sat by the concrete fence of the supposed café, watching the waves. She had a glass of iced coffee and a vape which rested on the cracked wooden table. She had a mellow presence that gave off the impression that she was at home.
The entrance to the café was right behind her, it was a large wooden glass-paned sliding door. A single person stood behind the counter, silently waiting for the next customer to arrive. We entered the shop and ordered our coffee. They were selling an interesting cup of spicy spanish latte – to put it bluntly, the drink was iced but the flakes of dried chili warmed my chest.
My partner and I sat right outside the shop, by the fence, where the curly haired girl sat. The sky cleared, and the sun shined brightly. I noticed the girl at the other table had an expression I knew too well – she was working up some talking points.
“Dumayo ba rin kayo?” she mumbled to us, cutting off the conversation between my partner and I.
“Sorry, what?” I responded, asking her to repeat again. She flinched, swallowed the anxiety and recomposed herself. She said in a more pronounced voice,
“Kelan kayo dumating dito?”
“Ahh,” we expressed. We shared to her how we arrived just recently, what we’ve done so far, and the next activities planned in our itinerary. She agreed with the places we’ve visited and plan to go to next, but she added a few other spots we could check out, most likely those were listed under her favorite things in Baler. She shared about these gorgeous rock formations during low tide at the other side of town, to partying at a newly opened rave club, to random friends she’s made over a bottle of “Red Horse”. I learned that she has never tried surfing. Ironic, since she seems to be a local in Baler, one of the most prominent surfing capitals of the Philippines — all because she was too scared to try.
It was a lot to listen to… from a total stranger, I rudely thought to myself. She chose to spend her vacation far from how I would choose a peaceful out-of-town trip, although I couldn’t help but pay attention to every single detail.
The conversation went on, we would compare the differences between the metro and this small town, how everyone around was friendlier – more earnest with their responses, how the tricycle fare may be a fixed Php50.00 but can take you kilometers away, to how Php200.00 can go a long way for a heavy and fulfilling meal. The constant worries we had day-to-day weren’t present here.
“Why Baler?” she asked us. My partner and I shared a glance and all we could tell her was that we wanted to go to someplace new. I returned the question,
“How come it sounds like you’ve been here again and again?” She grinned and let out a small giggle.
She shared the first time she visited Baler; it was a last-minute decision. Back in 2020, during the COVID pandemic, she was on her way to her grandmother’s home in Aurora. Baler was one of the towns on the way to her destination, so she decided to stop by for a few days – this whole getaway was a complete secret from her family. Since then, it has become a ritual. Her own personal secret, whenever she’d visit her grandmother, she’d always plan a 2-3 day stay here in Baler. You can see her face brighten up; her eyes sparkled as she gazed outward to the sea. I guess all those past trips played through her mind.
The mundanity of the lives we lived in the metro was something we shared, and we understood precisely the frustrations that came with it. However, the carefree outlook to let the surrounding events of the day swoop her in and take her to a new course, felt terrifying yet blissful to me. She had freedom that was far from what I knew it to be. She had the strength to trust in knowing that at the end of it all, everything will be alright.
Our drinks ran out, and the conversation felt like it had reached its conclusion.
“San ka patungo?” my partner asked the girl.
“Diyan lang,” she pointed in the opposite direction to where we were heading to.
“Kumuha ako ng surfing instructor,” she shared one last time. My partner and I smiled at the sudden change of pace we felt from her. We said our goodbyes and watched her walk away – only then did I realise that I didn’t get her name, nor a proper picture of her.
Kodak ColorPlus200 Photographs by Bradd Gabe; developed by Sunny16 Studios
We left the café and made our way back to the starting point of the beachfront. Since that encounter, the rest of the trip felt different. I found a kind of yearning when observing the people around us.
Where are they headed next?
That slow pace that greeted us from the bus, turned into curiosity which grew to excitement – my whole internal rhythm shifted.
FilmNeverDie Suibo500T Photographs by Bradd Gabe; developed by Sunny16 Studios