After forty hours or travel time from Paris, I finally landed in Colombo.
My first impressions of Sri Lankans:
Friendly but useless compared to the Chinese and Vietnamese. Communism did something right. Had to ask the google gods after being misdirected to the post office by the six guys at the hostel reception
Like the Vietnamese, they also harass you for taxis as if it was illegal for white people to use sidewalks. Obviously, taxis can never be found when you want one.
Sri Lankans speak English somewhat, can be a real curse for solo female travellers:
‘’Hello! Are you married? Where are you going? Where are you from? Where do you stay now? Are you an actress? Are you related to Shania Twain? ‘’
One female expat explained to me they don’t know how rude and creepy this is but once you explain it, they most gladly switch to more appropriate conversation starters.
However, others catcall worse than in Latin America. I was not expecting that. Canada’s travel advisory did not bring this up. It is that bad. A word of caution to all western women who travel solo.
After such a ‘’great’’ start in Colombo, I was stuck standing for 2 hours on a train heading to the south-west. This well versed in English Sri Lankan desperately wanted my contact information; in hopes of immigrating to Canada. Sigh. When I did finally get a seat, an old lady tried extorting me for 20 USD equivalent in local currency with a very intricate story using the 2004 Tsunami as the instigator for all that has befallen her. She needed money to pay for a transfusion upon which her life depended on. I was taken by it at first. But upon my comment ‘’Transfusions are free in Canada, aren’t they in Sri Lanka?’’. Her response was: ‘’ The offer and demand curves, its expensive to get O negative like me, only AB+ is free’’.
‘’You little lying witch giving me an economics and a biology class in perfect English! ‘’
I managed to keep my cool: ‘’ I am very sorry but I am from a country where transfusions are free. So as a sign of respect to the principles put forth by my country, I can’t give you this money, you will have to find another way.’’ She stood up and probably tried her lines on somebody else.
(By the way, transfusions are free in Sri Lanka)
Some locals are getting so bloody rich off the tourism boom down south that using a 10-year old natural disaster has to be a con. I’ll gladly pay the ‘’white person surcharge’’ for my bloody rhottis. They are at least trying to run a business. I am a true North American.
When I finally did get to my final destination, Gurubebila a surf town, it started raining, the surf conditions were sub-par, the Sri Lankan owner of the guest house had that look and everything was expensive -damn Europeans with their euros.
Actually I was having a proper culture shock.
Sri Lanka is supposedly a soft version of India. India made it to my blacklist.
After two days of rain and acting PMS-like, looked for lodging alternatives. It took me 10 minutes to find a more budget friendly option with a family. Then, went longboarding on the beginner beach break at Weligama to remember that surfing was supposed to be fun. I also started ‘’job-hunting’’ for my surf instructor internship-the whole point of being in Sri Lanka.
On my way to a French surf school on foot, it started down pouring. Sigh. Right next to a newly opened coffee shop. Hun. The Sri Lankan owner was a savior. About my age, she just moved back to her hometown to start her own business after spending 15 years in Colombo and Dubai. Spoke marvelous English. Knew how to make proper coffee. After hanging out with her for two hours, I met two French budget travellers with whom I was able to swap surf and budget travel tips. The gal had a similar surf level to me, sweet, a surfing buddy!
Within ten days managed to slash spending by half, drink better coffee, surf fun waves, get some sun, sort out an internship and meet great people from the surf-yoga industry. Maybe things turned around because I went to the temple on full moon for a Buddhist celebration. Kharma.