Corporal Shorty Cosplay @corporal-shorty-cosplay - Tumblr Blog

How to make felt wings

You can make angel wings in a lot of ways and this is how I made a pair out of felt for my latest cosplay. This technique is fairly simple but takes a lot of time.

I started by drawing the shape of one wing on a piece of paper (One wing was for me around 33x26 cm). It is a good idea to also draw out how you want the feathers to be on the paper wing so you can get a hint on how big they should be.

For the feathers I used white hobby felt that I cut out in to six different sizes. This step is by far the most time consuming (it take a lot of time!) and I highly recommend making a pattern of the feathers in cardboard to make the process easier. I made around 600 feathers in total to cover back and front on both wings.

To make the feathers more stiff it is a good idea to coat them with mod podge. Just one coat makes a lot of difference and help the wings keep its shape. (I did not do this step with the smallest feathers since they did not need to be stiff).

To see how I wanted the formation of the feathers I placed them out on the paper wing and took a photo so I could check it later on.

For the base of the wings I cut out the shape of the wing in craft foam. Since I wanted the small feathers on the upper part of the wings to be a bit higher up I glued on some extra craft foam there.

To hold the base up I used some black worbla that I twisted the lower part of to give them some angle so they didn’t lay flat. To make sure no color show between the feathers everything was painted white and a stripe of felt was glued over the worbla.

Next I started to glue the first row of feathers to each other. Since I did not want to glue them direcly on the foam wing yet I used needles to help mark the placement of the feathers on the next couple of layers.

When I was done gluing the bigger feathers together I took the foam base away and used some transparent paper to draw out the shape of all the feathers except the first row.

I then placed the paper over the foam base and made dots where the inner corners where the feathers on the lower row met. I then draw a line above it and cut along it. This was made because I realised that the felt feathers where a bit see through and the shape of the foam base could be seen. Higher up it were more feathers and harder to see it.

The base was glued to the feathers and was then flipped over and feathers where glued to that side as well.

For my cosplay I needed red stones on the wings. I used two glass prism, black worbla and some red and gold paint to make them. However this made the wings heavier then they needed to be so if you are making something like this, try to use a lighter material for this part.

And they are done! Time consuming but really light (even with the stones) and easy to make.

~Bubblefish

grimbeecosplay

The making of my Maleficent wings, Part 1. First thing I did was draw a large life sized layout of how I wanted the feathers to be placed and shaped. From there I drew and cut out each individual paper feather and labeled them into group. (My boyfriend helped a little with cutting :]) There are over 50 feathers on the inside of one wing alone.

After that I cut out the largest feather in foam and played around with different scoring, cutting, and sanding techniques that I wanted to apply to all the feathers. This way I figured out what worked and what didnt! Experimenting! muhaha!

And cats always like top help of course<3

cowbuttcrunchies

Ready to get dyeing? Using a polyester dye is a great way to permanently color any synthetic wig. IDye Poly and Rit’s new line of synthetic dye called Dyemore are two great options for wig-coloring - click below the cut for a more in-depth Dyemore review, as well as instructions to jump start your journey into wig dyeing.

For folks who want a physical, true-color version of this chart, you can find it in Cosplay Culture Magazine’s August-September issue!

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tsubasahime

Cosplay Tutorial: Curling a Wig

I said almost 2 years ago I was going to start doing more tutorials and progress logs. Well…here I am finally trying to pick up on that promise. I’ve had a lot of questions in person about how I curl my wigs. So I figured this was as good a place as ever to start! Image heavy under the cut!

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dantaliacosplay

How to curl a short wig

Please be nice this is my first tutorial !

I hope this helps you. I did this because I was searching around the Internet trying to find how to curl a short wig for my Bilbo cosplay. But I haven’t found much so here we are :)

First of all the things needed :

a curling iron

Various pins {large amount} (Bobby pins, large hairpins and some smaller pins to pin the hair up)

A comb

Hair ties ( I always use ripped ones bc they’re easier to use on wigs)

Scissors (I cut and styled it at the same time. It’s not really necessary to do it like this but I was short on time)

A lot of patience

And that’s it.

For the wig :

I used a cheap wig I found on ebay. Since bilbo has shorter hair than the wig, i cut the wig in various places.Pay attention to your head form and always always try the wig on after you cut to see if it fits. I have the luck to have the same measurements as a wig head but still, see if it looks good.

(sadly I didn’t make a pic of the cut version sorry). Depending on what character you want to cosplay you should cut the wig the way the character has his hair.

Tipp: It’s easier to cut it before hand because then you won’t have trouble later on.

Remember you still have to curl the wig ! So don’t cut too short !!

After you cut your wig it’s important to have a reference pic to use ! On how the curls should turn out and how to style it

My reference :

It shows you what the curls are supposed to look like on my cosplay ! And since bilbo has not really curly hair I decided to not make curly curls…

Divide the hair into small sections

As you can see in the picture I already begun curling but that’s not important.

To begin curling you need to divide the hair otherwise you will have a mess.I used hair ties to hold the hair up and pinned up the sections that were in the way with some smaller hairpins. I always devide the parts by the beginning of the tresses as you can see in the picture.

Beginning to curl

After you did all the dividing take a small part of the hair, comb it so they all go in the same direction and heat it with the curling iron. I go over it for two times to be sure the hair is hot enough.

Curl the hair

take the curling iron and curl it gently.

After i curled the section it didn’t really produce a perfect curl but remember it’s synthetic hair it does not bend like real hair.

So for the curl to stay in…

Take the section and twist it

After the hair is hot enough you twist the hair in a curl. I always made a small loop out of the hair because I didn’t want the curls to be too large. But you can also twist it in other ways :)

Pin it up

In the next step you pin the section you curled and twisted up so it will stay in place while it cools down

You have to wait for the curls to cool down befire removing the pins so after ca.10 minutes you can take the Bobby pins out.

Tipp : I always used all Bobby pins I had until taking out the pins I already used. So I could be a 100% sure that they had enough time to cool down.

Now you only have to repeat the steps ! Until your wig is done !!

(Sorry for the quality I had to hurry)

That’s how my wig looked like after I curled the first 3 devided sections. In the end this was a bit too curly in this area so I brushed the curls out a bit. I would also recommend to brush the wig gently and once with a wide comb to make the curls look more natural

Enjoy the wig

This is how my wig turned out :

Of course the front part is styled and the whole wig got sprayed with hair spray so it will stay in place.

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial and found it helpful

Made by : Dantalia.cosplay

futagocosplay

Kaneki Centipede Mask + Kagune tutorial!!!

Im sorry I didnt plan on making this tutorial so I didnt have all the pictures I needed to make this so I hope its still easy to understand!

If you have any questions just ask!

Supplies:

-1 pool noodle cut in half

- wire (not too thin or it wont keep its place- i used hanger wires)

-spray paint

- pack of large craft foam

-half mask

-hot glue to glue everything together

-newspaper

-paper mache

-Optional: Dressform- makes is easier to make and visualize

#kagune #Kaneki

tokubetsumemori

How to make Suzuya’s quinque.

Simplified the tutorial. Too lazy to really go into small details when you guys can just figure out by looking at the pictures. Really isn’t too hard.

If any questions, you can ask. There’s varies of ways to make it. This is just my own version.

Btw. Adding on, when I finished at the end, I also painted the inside layer and also withered to make it looks like the quinque was used and not like “new”.

maddox-knight-deactivated202409

Making Peridot’s finger-gloves. Oh and my destabilizer’s in there getting painted too.

maddox-knight-deactivated202409

MAKING PERIDOT’S LIMB ENHANCERS

The process described is using EVA 1/2″ foam from Harbor Freight.

Creating the arms was not very tricky. Basically, I cut out a strip of foam long enough to cover my forearm. I wrapped it around my arm and tightened one end to make it into a cone shape. I marked the line where it meets, cut it out, the ends at a slight angle so it would glue together better. If I knew better, I would have used contact cement, as it’s just so much stronger, is not hot, and hides the seams. I also should have angled the seam at the back, not the front. Cut out the spot for your arm so it can bend. It’s harder to cut bent foam so this is something you should do before gluing. Also before gluing, TRACE the shape backwards onto your foam so you can just copy the first arm. Cut out a strip of foam from scrap and glued it on the inside under the seams to make it stronger. I marked 2″ back from the front end and lightly carved in to mark where the black starts. I then cut out a circular shape to fit in the inside, where my wrists meet. I used my exacto/drywall blades for the handhole. Gluing it onto the inside is also tricky and takes patience! (contact cement would be harder to use here)

The legs are basically a scaled-up version of Step 1. I used one whole sheet of foam for each leg. Wrapping it around my leg, and marking the spot at the top where it meets my leg, as big as it will get. Later on, the added height in the feet will lift you until it fits. It was then cut out and glued together like before. I again recommend using contact cement instead so you don’t end up with ugly seams. I filled in the back with the big triangles; which would have been easier if I made it from regular paper and then traced it so it fits. And the triangles are also cut out to later fill in with the yellow diamonds. And the feet; Here you can again see where hot glue sucks. Use contact cement. The foot shape is an oval in whole, with most of it being inside the leg. The magic of me being able to walk great in Peridot is the leg and foot being SEPARATE. Plain and simple, stack up foam layers for added height and to make the proportions look better. These aren’t even that hard to walk in, and it makes them authentic “limb enhancers.” FIND SOME CHEAP CROCS and glue those suckers straight onto the foam. Yet another robot secret I divulge to you all. Comfy and no one will ever see them. I also put a small foam strip on the inside of the legs, right above where the foot is to also help it stay in place. I have never had a problem with them sliding out of place at all!

First, Plastidip to seal the foam - the blue can on the far left. Can usually be found at Walmart, or Home Depot. I used the green color pictured but honestly it SUCKS and didn’t wan’t to cover properly - the pictures actually look better than reality in this case. The black is Krylon’s gloss Black. I used masking tape and newspaper to, well, mask off areas where needed. The yellow, as mentioned in the headpiece post, is Krylon’s Bright Idea.

Honestly, these things could be so much better and I made so many mistakes. The paint sucks and there are visible sharpie marks still, but they were a huge learning experience, and maybe this can help you out, as you can improve on what I did.

kinokreations

Kino’s guide on how to make cosplay animal ears (method 1) Been burnt out on drawing so I took 2 hours of a break to make this. Materials are easy to come by at any craft store. You decide on how detailed you’d like your ears to be, there’s also many methods to make ears like this but I’ll be showing you my method 1 today :). I’ve included the patterns for the ears for free, just save the image and print and cut. It’s not a full on guide, just a “TLDR” really, though if you have any questions, feel free to ask or DM me :) or message me via kinokreations on facebook :). Edit: I forgot to mention: The purpose of the wire in the middle allows you to position the ear in any shape based on “emotion” so you can flatten it, and re-adjust it again to normal :)

jancola

I’ve discovered some people are intimidated by zippers, so here’s a really basic tutorial for installing a zipper so that it’s hidden inside a seam.

mee-shellmabelle-cosplay

Hey friends! Long time no post to this blog! Real life’s been kickin me in the pants lately so cosplaying has become a rare occurance for me, but since I had a little time to post this small tutorial to my IG, I figured I’d also post it here too!

I’ve had a lot of people ask me how I did my Widowmaker arms (bc yknow fuck body paint lol) so here’s a mini compilation of the process ✨ 🕷I started off with some seamless nylon gloves from eBay. They’re about $11-15ish depending on seller and come in white, black, and nude. They’re teeny tiny (see mini Deadpool hand lol), but amazingly they stretch? like A LOT??? Lol 🕷Not shown is the dyeing process, but it’s pretty straightforward. I used RIT DyeMore in royal purple and super diluted it until it gave me a pale purple color that matched my face paint. 🕷After they dried, I put on the right glove and lightly marked out where and how large I wanted my tattoo. 🕷I found a large enough image of Widow’s tattoo online and printed it out to the size of my arm, taped it in a tube, and stuffed the tube with extra fabric I had laying around. 🕷CAREFULLY stretch the glove over the tube and arrange it so your marks line up with the template and secure each side with rubber bands. 🕷Paint over those tedious-ass designs until you feel death come for you. I used Jacquard to avoid texture and the shiny look, but any fabric paint should do. 🕷Let the paint dry and then carefully peel the glove free from your paper template. 🕷Et voilà! Purple arms! If you wanna be really extra like me, paint some fake nails and glue them into the fingers for that natural dead goth spider-lady look lol

mimicosplays

hope it can be helpful to someone~

ferret-with-a-knife

How the heck did I make that Ahsoka Tano headpiece??? A tutorial with lots and lots of pictures

Hey! So I liked have gotten some messages about how I made my headpieces for my Clone Wars season 3-5 Ahsoka cosplay.

Message no more (well actually keep messaging if you want, I like getting messages) because here it is, all in one place! Be warned, there are tons of pictures below the cut~

Ahsoka Tano, Clone Wars Season 3-5 Headpiece: Lekku (headtails) and Montrals (horns)

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bubbleyann-deactivated20210608

Cosplay Tutorial: How to put in an invisible zipper perfectly and easily

So I fucking hate putting in zippers not gonna lie so over the years i managed to create the perfect way to put in an invisible zipper quickly and perfectly every time, below there will be steps and pictures to help

**Beginner friendly!!!

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ellayesay-blog

Voltron Armour Patterns

Okay so, I found it extremely hard to find a pattern for the Paladin armor so I made one of my own. I made this in a laser cut program cause I’m going to be laser cutting this out of EVA foam. I don’t know what the end result of this is yet but once I’ve made it I’ll post a step by step tutorial of assembly and painting and the final result (it’ll be my fav boi Lance).

[this is all size to my measurements, if you use this the ratios will probably be different]

Blue- Jetpack

Green- Chest piece

Red- Arms

Purple- Belt

Orange- Legs

Chest piece (left to right: Shoulder, Front, Side, Neck and Back, Side, Shoulder)

Jetpack

[the tabs fold down to make it 3D off of the armor (the separate triangles are tabs too I just couldn’t fit them in without overlapping) I’ve designed this so that the bottom is slanted cause that’s kinda how it looks in my ref]

Arms (top to bottom: Bicep, Elbow, Forearm, Wrist bit and Hand bit)

Belt

[the tabs on the hexagons are to be folded down cause the bits pop out. I’m doing the slit bits as just cut out cause I’m too lazy to do it any other way. This is designed to join at the front so the pentagon/diamond shaped bit can hide the seam]

Legs (top to bottom: Thigh, Knee, Calf, Ankle pieces)

[the legs will need the most shaping, espesially around the ankle]

magicmissilescosplay

HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT THE GOOD NEWS OF OUR LORD AND SAVIOR, CHICAGO SCREWS??

Ya’ll…if you haven’t ever used these, sit down and take a peep. I needed to redo the belt covers for Leliana’s armor due to the fact that it took me, like, 15 minutes to put that stuff on when it should have taken less than 5. Originally, I bucked at making actual functioning buckles because I didn’t have time and I was hella lazy. (OHHOHOHO HOW THINGS CHANGE)

Enter CHICAGO SCREWS.

They’re the magical little bits of hardware often used in making belts and doing other leather work. They come in two parts - a male end and a female end (don’t laugh, it’s the truth).

I found a sizable pack on Amazon for a good price and bought that prompto. The finish isn’t the prettiest, but they were cheap and this is cosplay. ;)

I used my Dremel to drill small holes through the foam of the armor. I made some straps ahead of time with the intention of them becoming new belts and just reused the bridle buckles from the old covers. Added the buckles, stitched as necessary and punched a hole where the screw would go.

The female screw I inserted through the back side of the foam. It takes a little effort and can be tricky to do. Widen your holes if needed. Add the prepared strap over the top, secure with the male end and TA DA functioning belts that look good and will actually stay on your armor.

I used foam for my armor but you could absolutely use chicago screws with Worbla builds and the like. Just check the post length to make sure it’s long or short enough to accommodate your materials.

Go make some fabulous belts now!

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