Hiya! asking a question because I wanted to try and use one of your free undertale crotchet patterns, but was wondering on what size crotchet hook you used? (I'm a newbie to making amigurumi's and need guidance lol)
Hi! I believe I used a 3.0 mm crochet hook with this yarn (but the exact kind isn't important as long as all the yarns you use are of a similar weight).
In general, it depends on the yarn you're using. Usually it mentions a recommended hook size somewhere on the yarn label, and for amigurumi specifically, I tend to use the lower end of the recommended range or even go a little bit (~0.5 mm) smaller. You should end up with a relatively tight fabric and no big holes, but still be able to work into the stitches without having to use a lot of force.
Not exactly dead, just on a kind of ... prolonged unplanned hiatus??
It’s actually quite fitting that you’re asking now, since I just started making plans for bringing this project back! Let me just use this opportunity to make a little “what’s going on” post which I almost certainly wouldn’t have done otherwise
So, I never really intended to put this crochet series on hold for as long as I did (I just checked, and apparently the last post was in August?! Ummmm... whoopsie ^^;;;) It didn’t even occur to me to make a proper hiatus announcement because I kept thinking I would get back to crocheting soon - but somehow I kept getting distracted by other things. (In case you are curious about those other things - I’ve been relatively active on my main blog @thelibrarbian, with non-crochet Undertale content ^^)
I still want to bring this blog back (especially since I have quite a few figures already planned out that I’m really excited for), but I will probably change the format a little bit: Instead of one post with a header image and the pattern right after, I want to take and post more photos of the figures right when I finish them, and post the patterns a little later. Hopefully, that should allow me to have something to post more often, and also help me stay more motivated by splitting the previous workload for a single pattern post into two parts ^^
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
Not gonna lie, it was nice to make a simpler pattern again! Asriel - as a goat child - is pretty much just a color-swapped Frisk with snout and ears instead of hair.
This was the last pattern on my list of main Undertale characters that I wanted to crochet in order (more or less). The next pattern will probably be Asriel as the God of Hyperdeath, but I don’t really have a plan for the patterns immediately after that. If you’d like to see a specific character, leave me a comment or an ask, and I’ll be sure to take that into account! Gaster as well as AU characters would have to wait for a little bit (and for AUs I’d have to get the creator’s permission first), but feel free to tell me about those as well, so I can see how much - if any - interest is there!
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Asriel pattern in English
Asriel pattern in German
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
yarn in white, green, yellow and black
black yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
long needle (at least 5 cm)
scissors
Head
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (12 sts)
stuff the head
Round 7: *sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 8: sc in each st around (6 sts)
stuff the neck and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Snout
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: *sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 sc in the third* (8 sts)
Round 2: sc in each st around (18 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Ears (2x)
With white yarn, ch 6 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Row 1-2: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Body
With green yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
switch to yellow yarn (see the paragraph “Changing colors” in this post)
Round 3: sc in each st around (18 sts)
switch to green yarn
Round 4: sc in each st around (18 sts)
switch to yellow yarn
Round 5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
switch to green yarn
Rounds 6+7: sc in each st around (18 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Arms (2x)
With green yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-5: sc in each st around (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Do not stuff the arms
Hands (2x)
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Legs (2x)
With black yarn, ch 8 and form a circle
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-4: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Feet (2x)
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-4: sc in each st around (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Do not stuff the feet
Sew the open end of the feet closed
Assembly
With one of the ends of the yarn that hang from the ears, pull the yarn through the piece on the edge of the ear with a needle and pull on it, so that the ear becomes curved. Do the same for the other ear (1).
Stuff the snout and sew snout and ears onto the head (2-3).
Embroider the face with black yarn or embroidery thread (4-5).
Start stuffing the body, then sew the legs to the bottom row of stitches of the body – let the body overlap the legs a little bit (6).
Stuff body and legs through the open ends of the legs.
Sew on the feet and head (7-8).
Sew the hands onto the open ends of the arms (9). Fasten a long piece of yarn to the shoulder of one of the arms. With a long needle, pierce through the body and then through the shoulder of the other arm (10). Use the needle to pull the yarn a few times back and forth through arm, body, arm, until both arms are well fastened but can still be moved (11).
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your little Asriel!
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
Asgore is similar to Toriel in size and body shape (as one would expect), but his armor is more complicated than Toriel’s dress. I took a few creative liberties with his design, partially because the in-game graphics leave some things (like the color of his armor underneath the cloak) open to interpretation, partially because I couldn’t get certain elements to work or look right in the context of a crochet figure.
In hindsight I probably could have made the cloak a bit wider than I did without immobilizing the arms completely. Feel free to experiment with that if you want!
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Asgore pattern in English
Asgore pattern in German
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
yarn in yellow, blue, white and black
black yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
long needle (at least 5 cm)
scissors
Head
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (12 sts)
stuff the head
Round 7: *sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 8: sc in each st around (6 sts)
stuff the neck and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Snout
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: *sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 sc in the third* (8 sts)
Round 2-4: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Ears (2x)
With white yarn, ch 7 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Row 1-2: sc in each st around (7 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Horns (2x)
With white yarn, ch 9 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each of the next 3 sts, then hdc in each of the next 3 sts, then dc in each of the last 3 sts (9 sts)
ch 3 and turn (these chain stitches replace the first dc on the second row), dc in each of the next 2 sts, then hdc in each of the next 3 sts, then sc in each of the last 3 sts (9 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Crown
With yellow yarn, ch 6 and form a circle
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: *ch 2, then make 3 sl sts: 2 in the chs, one in the next st in the circle*
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Body Armor
With yellow yarn, ch 4 + 1 turning chain
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next two sts, 4 sc in the next st – turn the piece around and continue along the underside of the chain stitches: 1 sc in each of the next two sts, another 2 sc in the first st of this round (12 sts)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (24 sts)
Rounds 3-9: sc in each st around (24 sts)
Round 10: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (16 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
With yellow yarn, ch 8 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Row 1: sc in each st around (8 sts)
Row 2: *sc2tog* (4 sts)
Row 3: *sc2tog* (2 sts)
Row 4: sc2tog (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
With yellow yarn, ch 16 + 3 turning chains
Turn, dc in each st around (16 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Pauldrons (2x)
With yellow yarn, 4 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (6 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next* (8 sts)
Round 3: *sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next* (10 sts)
Round 4: *sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in next* (12 sts)
Round 5: sc in each st around (12 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Do not stuff the pauldrons
Sew the open end of the pauldrons closed
Delta Rune Circle
With yellow yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Delta Rune Wings (2x)
With yellow yarn, ch 11 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc3tog, sl st, sc3tog, sl st, sc3tog
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Arms (2x)
With black yarn, 8 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-9: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Stuff the arms lightly
Hands (2x)
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: sc in each st around (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Pants
With black yarn, ch 10 and form a circle
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-10: sc in each st around (10 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Make another leg (leg 2) in the same way, but instead of making a sl st continue in the following way:
4 sc, then take the other leg (leg 1) and 8 sc on leg 1, back to leg 2, 4 sc and sl st on leg 2, then fasten off
Feet (2x)
With white yarn, 8 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-5: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Do not stuff the feet (or stuff them very lightly)
Sew the open end of the feet closed
Cape
With blue yarn, ch 12 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-4: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Row 5: 1 sc in each of the first 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the remaining 3 sts (14 sts)
Rows 6-9: sc in each st around (14 sts)
Row 10: 1 sc in each of the first 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the remaining 3 sts (16 sts)
Rows 11-14: sc in each st around (16 sts)
Row 15: 1 sc in each of the first 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the remaining 4 sts (18 sts)
Rows 16-19: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Row 20: 1 sc in each of the first 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the remaining 4 sts (20 sts)
Rows 21-24: sc in each st around (20 sts)
Fasten off
Assembly
Fold the horns in half and sew the open side closed. Keep the yarn pulled tight while sewing, so that the horns are pulled into a slight curve (1).
With one of the ends of the yarn that hang from the ears, pull the yarn through the piece on the edge of the ear with a needle and pull on it, so that the ear becomes curved. Do the same for the other ear (2).
Stuff the snout and sew it onto the head (3).
Sew horns and ears onto the head (4) and embroider the face with black yarn or embroidery thread (5-6).
Cut some pieces of yellow yarn for the hair and sew them on along the center of the head. For the beard, tie more threads of yarn along the jawline with the crochet hook (7). If you want, untwist the yarn and sew or glue the hair to the head to keep it in shape. Trim the yarn to the desired length (8).
Sew the crown onto the head between the horns (9).
Start stuffing the body, then sew the pants to the bottom of the main part of the body armor – let the body overlap the legs a little bit and add the smaller parts of the armor as you go (10-11).
Stuff body and pants through the open ends of the legs. Sew on the feet (12).
Lightly stuff the arms and sew the hands onto the open ends of the arms (13). Fasten a long piece of yarn to the shoulder of one of the arms. With a long needle, pierce through the body and then through the shoulder of the other arm. Use the needle to pull the yarn a few times back and forth through arm, body, arm, until both arms are well fastened but can still be moved (14-15).
Sew the top of the cape to the top of the body armor; make sure not to sew it to the arms (16).
Sew the head onto the body (17).
Sew the pauldrons to the armor; make sure to keep the arms movable (18).
Sew the parts of the Delta Rune together and attach the Delta Rune to the front of the armor (19).
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your little Asgore!
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
Wow, this took way longer that I expected
Mettaton EX is similar to Papyrus and Undyne in body shape and structure, and he shares some parts of the pattern with them. He is not quite as complicated as Papyrus, but he’s getting quite close.
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Mettaton EX pattern in English
Mettaton EX pattern in German
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
yarn in white, black, pink and light gray
black and pink yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
thin wire (about 0.5 mm)
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
scissors
Head
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (12 sts)
stuff the head
Round 7: *sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 8: sc in each st around (6 sts)
stuff the neck and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Chest
With pink yarn, ch 4 + 1 turning chain
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next two sts, 4 sc in the next st – turn the piece around and continue along the underside of the chain stitches: 1 sc in each of the next two sts, another 2 sc in the first st of this round (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Round 3-5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (12 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Belly
With light gray yarn, ch 10 and form a circle
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-4: sc in each st around (10 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Arms (2x)
With gray yarn, ch 9 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-2: sc in each st around (9 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Hands (2x)
With white yarn, 8 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1-2: sc in each st around (8 sts)
Round 3: *sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 4: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Round 5: *2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 2 sts* (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Dial
With gray yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Pants
With black yarn, ch 7 and form a circle
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-8: sc in each st around (7 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Make another leg (leg 2) in the same way, but instead of making a sl st continue in the following way:
2 sc, then take the other leg (leg 1) and 6 sc on leg 1, back to leg 2, 4 sc and sl st on leg 2, then fasten off
Shoes (2x)
With pink yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
sc in each st around (6 sts)
sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 turning ch
Turn, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 turning ch
Turn, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc into the side of the sole, sc in each of the 5 sts along the front part of the shoe, 1 sc into the other side of the sole (9 sts)
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts (8 sts)
Rounds 2-4: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Heels (2x)
With pink yarn, 4 sc into magic ring
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Pauldrons (2x)
With black yarn, ch 4 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Row 1: sc in each st around (4 sts)
Row 2: *sc2tog* (2 sts)
Row 3: sc2tog (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Assembly + Armature
Bend the wire into an armature. The size of the crocheted parts determines the size of the armature; use the picture below as a guide (1).
Embroider the face with black and yellow yarn or embroidery thread (2). Cut a few pieces of black yarn for the hair and sew them on along the center of the head (3). If you want, sew or glue the hair to the head to keep it in shape (4).
Sew the heels to the shoes (5).
Sew the dial to the chest piece (6). Add details with black yarn or embroidery thread (7).
Push the arms and neck of the armature through the chest piece from the inside (8).
Sew the belly into the chest (9).
Stuff the entire body, then put the legs over the armature, stuff them and sew them onto the opening of the belly (10).
Put the shoes over the ends of the armature, stuff them and sew them onto the legs (11).
Sew the arms over the armature and onto the chest, stuff the hands and sew them onto the arms (12-14).
Sew the head to the body (15).
Embroider the heart on the belly with pink yarn or embroidery thread (16).
Sew the pauldrons to the shoulders (17).
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your little Mettaton!
I’m currently in exam hell, so the next pattern will probably be delayed by another week. I’m sorry about that - hopefully after that, I will be able to get the last two patterns from the main cast posted a bit faster.
In other news, I realized I hadn’t added the introductory notes I wrote for the patterns on Amino to the Tumblr posts - not sure why, but I’ve copied them over now. I usually just talk a bit about each pattern in general and what I found interesting about making it.
In case you’re interested in this kind of thing: the notes are also undercut, so you don’t have to search through the posts.
Flowey
Flowey’s pattern is quite different from Frisk’s and Chara’s. Because his body, or rather his stalk, is so thin, he needs a wire armature to keep him upright. I had some trouble figuring out a way to make him stand up, until I thought of giving him three roots for “feet”.
I gave my Flowey a relatively long stalk, so he has more ways to stretch and bend around. But he is quite tall compared to Frisk and Chara. You can make him a bit shorter if you want; the pattern for the stalk tells you the range of how many stitches you can use.
Toriel
Toriel is the largest figure of the bunch so far: with the yarn I use, she reaches about 13 cm or 5 inches, which makes her twice as tall as Flowey. Most of her body parts fit together in a similar fashion to Frisk and Chara, only larger. She also has a few more pieces (snout, ears, horns and the Delta Rune) to sew on at the end.
Sans
Sans has again a similar body type to Frisk, Chara and Toriel. His pattern is a little more complicated, though: His legs consist of two parts (the pants and the actual bone) which are sewn into each other.
Also, his upper body is wrapped into a jacket that is only connected to the rest of the figure by the thread that holds the arms to the body. If you have trouble holding the jacket in place, feel free to secure it with pins or sew it onto the body with additional stitches before attaching the arms.
To make the hood hang from the jacket better, you will need to work one row of single crochet where you work only through the front loop of the stitch. (That way the hood part can flip back more easily.) If you are unfamiliar with that technique, you might want to quickly look up a tutorial before you start working on the jacket.
Papyrus
Papyrus has the most complicated (and longest) pattern I've made so far. Almost none of his parts are reused from other patterns, although his body and boots start like Toriel's and Sans's, respectively. He has a full wire armature (like Flowey), and is therefore posable.
In the pattern and the progress images, Papyrus's arms, legs and spine as well as the visible part of his ribcage and pelvis are made with white yarn (like "naked" bone). Alternatively, you can also make those parts with black yarn; from what I’ve seen, both variants appear in official merchandise.
Undyne
Like Papyrus, Undyne is also constructed over a wire armature. However, her pattern is much simpler. The armature can be created in a single piece (different from Papyrus, who needed a two-part armature), and most of her body parts are rather simple shapes.
(Also, her boots are mostly stolen from Papyrus, which in turn were based on Sans's slippers. I just thought that was interesting.)
Alphys
Alphys has once again a pattern that is similar to Frisk's. I was unsure what kind of clothes to give her underneath the lab coat, because they can't be seen in any of the game sprites. Feel free to choose different colors for her shirt and her pants; but unless you leave her coat (at least partially) open, the shirt will be completely covered anyway.
Mettaton
Mettaton in his box form has a completely different shape than the other figures I have made so far. At first, I wasn't entirely sure how I wanted to make his rectangular body, but I decided on a method that would require the least amount of individual parts: On part for the front, one for the back, and one strip to wrap around and form the sides.
I also should have stitched a switch on his back, but I forgot. Feel free to add it if you make him!
Do you translate the patterns into german yourself? 0w0
I do! German is actually my first language, and before I got more familiar with English crochet terminology I used to write the patterns in German first and translate them to English afterwards. Now I usually write the full pattern in English first, but I still use the German crochet abbreviations in the notes I make while developing the pattern :)
This is so small, it barely deserves a post of its own, but I didn’t want to include it in the Mettaton pattern itself since it’s not technically a part of the character.
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
black and gray yarn
a small piece of wire
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
scissors
Top part
With black yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-2: sc in each st around (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Handle
With gray yarn, ch 6 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each st around (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Assembly
Bend one end of the wire into a flat loop.
Sew the handle around the wire. Put the top part over the wire loop and sew it onto the handle.
Bend the remaining wire around and shorten it, if needed. You can now attach the microphone to a crochet doll by pushing the end of the wire through it’s hand.
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
I’m sorry for the long wait! But now that I’ve (mostly) finished moving, I should be able to return to my previous schedule.
I will also post a mini addendum for Mettaton’s microphone either later today or tomorrow. Microphone pattern is >>HERE.
Mettaton in his box form has a completely different shape than the other figures I have made so far. At first, I wasn't entirely sure how I wanted to make his rectangular body, but I decided on a method that would require the least amount of individual parts: On part for the front, one for the back, and one strip to wrap around and form the sides.
(I also should have stitched a switch on his back, but I forgot. Feel free to add it if you make him!)
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Mettaton pattern in English
Mettaton pattern in German
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
yarn in gray, brown, white, black and yellow or red
black yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
thin wire (about 0.5 mm)
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
scissors
Front
With gray yarn, ch 10 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-3: sc in each st around (10 sts)
Row 4: before turning, add an additional ch before the turning chain, then turn, sc in the next 11 sts, ch 1 + 1 turning chain (12 sts)
Rows 5-6: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rows 7-12: sc in first 2 sts, switch to red or yellow yarn, sc in the next 8 sts, switch back to gray yarn, sc in the last 2 sts (12 sts)
Rows 13-14: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Fasten off
When changing colors, make sure that the thread you aren’t currently using does not show on the front of the piece.
Instead of changing colors within the piece, you can also crochet the display as a separate part and sew it on afterwards. In that case, make the front exactly like the back. For the separate display, ch 8 + 1 turning ch, and sc in each st for 6 rows.
Back
With gray yarn, ch 10 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-3: sc in each st around (10 sts)
Row 4: before turning, add an additional ch before the turning chain, then turn, sc in the next 11 sts, ch 1 + 1 turning chain (12 sts)
Rows 5-14: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Fasten off
Side
With gray yarn, ch 48 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-2: sc in each st around (48 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Buttons (4x)
With brown yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Panel
With black yarn, ch 5 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each st around
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Arms (2x)
With gray yarn, ch 12 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-2: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Hands (2x)
With white yarn, 8 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1-2: sc in each st around (8 sts)
Round 3: *sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 4: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Round 5: *2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 2 sts* (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Rod
With black yarn, ch 4 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each st around
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Wheel (2x)
With black yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
2 sc in each st around (12 sts) and fasten off
Assembly + Armature
Bend the wire into an armature. The size of the crocheted parts determines the size of the armature; use the picture below as a guide (1).
Sew the buttons and the panel to the front (2-3). Stitch some smaller buttons onto the panel with yellow or red yarn. With black yarn or embroidery thread, add the lines to the display (4).
Sew the side part around the edge of the front (5). Push the arms and bottom rod of the armature through the body from the inside (6). Put some stuffing into the body, then sew the back on (7).
Sew the rod part over the armature and onto the body (8).
Place both parts of the wheel on top of each other and sc around the edge with gray yarn (9). Push the end of the wire into the wheel and sew the wheel to the rod (10).
Sew the arms over the armature and onto the body (11).
Stuff the hands, put them over the ends of the wire and sew them onto the arms (12).
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your little Mettaton!
Unfortunately, I won’t be able to post a crochet pattern tomorrow - I’m currently moving to a new place, which is taking up all my time and energy at the moment.
I might post some other crochet doll shenanigans tomorrow instead.
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
Alphys has once again a pattern that is similar to Frisk's. I was unsure what kind of clothes to give her underneath the lab coat, because they can't be seen in any of the game sprites. Feel free to choose different colors for her shirt and her pants; but unless you leave her coat (at least partially) open, the shirt will be completely covered anyway.
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Alphys pattern in English
Alphys pattern in German
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
yarn in yellow, white and 1-2 colors of your choice
black and white yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
thin wire (about 0.5 mm)
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
long needle (at least 5 cm)
scissors
Head
With yellow yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (12 sts)
stuff the head
Round 7: *sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 8: sc in each st around (6 sts)
stuff the neck and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Snout
With yellow yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: *sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next* (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Horns
With yellow yarn, 4 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (6 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next* (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Arms (2x)
With white yarn, 8 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-5: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Lightly stuff the arms
Hands (2x)
With yellow yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Body
With a yarn color of your choice, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-7: sc in each st around (18 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Legs (2x)
With a yarn color of your choice yarn, ch 8 and form a circle
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-4: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Feet (2x)
With yellow yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-4: sc in each st around (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Do not stuff the feet
Sew the open end of the feet closed
Tail
With yellow yarn, 4 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: sc in each st around (4 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (6 sts)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Round 5: *sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next* (8 sts)
Round 6: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Coat
With white yarn, ch 16 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-2: sc in each st around (16 sts)
Row 3: sc in first st, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next* (20 sts)
Row 4: sc in each st around (20 sts)
Row 5: sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next* (24 sts)
Row 6: sc in each st around (24 sts)
Row 7: sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next* (28 sts)
Rows 8-12: sc in each st around (28 sts)
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Assembly
Stuff snout and horns and sew them onto the body (1-2). Embroider the face with black and white yarn or embroidery thread (3-4).
Start stuffing the body, then sew the legs to the bottom row of stitches of the body – let the body overlap the legs a little bit (5).
Stuff body and legs through the open ends of the legs.
Sew on the feet, tail and head (6-8).
Wrap the coat around the body and close the front with a few stitches. If you want, pull down the top of the coat to form a collar (9).
Sew the hands onto the open ends of the arms. Fasten a long piece of yarn to the shoulder of one of the arms. With a long needle, pierce through the body and then through the shoulder of the other arm (10). Use the needle to pull the yarn a few times back and forth through arm, body, arm, until both arms are well fastened but can still be moved.
Bend a piece of wire into a pair of glasses (11). Optionally, attach them to the head with a few stitches.
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your little Alphys!
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
Like Papyrus, Undyne is also constructed over a wire armature. However, her pattern is much simpler. The armature can be created in a single piece (different from Papyrus, who needed a two-part armature), and most of her body parts are rather simple shapes.
(Also, her boots are mostly stolen from Papyrus, which in turn were based on Sans's slippers. I just thought that was interesting.)
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Undyne pattern in English
Undyne pattern in German
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
yarn in turquoise, black, blue and red
black and yellow yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
thin wire (about 0.5 mm)
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
scissors
Head
With turquoise yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (12 sts)
stuff the head
Round 7: *sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 8: sc in each st around (6 sts)
stuff the neck and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Ears (?)
With turquoise yarn, ch 3 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc3tog and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Body
With black yarn, ch 4 + 1 turning chain
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next two sts, 4 sc in the next st – turn the piece around and continue along the underside of the chain stitches: 1 sc in each of the next two sts, another 2 sc in the first st of this round (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-9: sc in each st around (18 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Arms (2x)
With turquoise yarn, 8 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: sc in each st around (8 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first 2 sts, sc2tog* (6 sts)
Rounds 3-10: sc in each st around (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Legs (2x)
With blue yarn, ch 7 and form a circle
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-8: sc in each st around (7 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Shoes (2x)
With red yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
sc in each st around (6 sts)
sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 turning ch
Turn, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 turning ch
Turn, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc into the side of the sole, sc in each of the 5 sts along the front part of the shoe, 1 sc into the other side of the sole (9 sts)
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts (8 sts)
Rounds 2-3: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Assembly + Armature
Embroider the face with black and yellow yarn or embroidery thread (1). With red yarn, add strands of hair in a circle (2). Tightly tie the hair together with another red thread (3).
Bend the wire into an armature. The size of the crocheted parts determines the size of the armature; use the picture below as a guide (4).
Push the arms and neck of the armature through the body from the inside (5).
Put the arms over the armature, stuff them and sew them onto the body (6-8).
Stuff the body, then put the legs over the armature, stuff them and sew them onto the opening of the body (9-10).
Put the shoes over the ends of the armature, stuff them and sew them onto the legs (11).
Sew the head on and sew the ears(?) onto the head (12).
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your little Undyne!
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
Papyrus has the most complicated (and longest) pattern I've made so far. Almost none of his parts are reused from other patterns, although his body and boots start like Toriel's and Sans's, respectively. He has a full wire armature (like Flowey), and is therefore posable.
In the pattern and the progress images, Papyrus's arms, legs and spine as well as the visible part of his ribcage and pelvis are made with white yarn (like "naked" bone). Alternatively, you can also make those parts with black yarn; from what I’ve seen, both variants appear in official merchandise.
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Papyrus pattern in English
Papyrus pattern in German
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
yarn in white, red, blue and yellow
black yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
thin wire (about 0.5 mm)
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
scissors
Head
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2 sc in sixth* (14 sts)
Rounds 3-4: sc in each st around (14 sts)
Round 5: sc2tog 4 times, sc in each of the next 6 sts (10 sts)
Round 6: sc2tog 2 times, sc in each of the next 6 sts (8 sts)
Round 7: sc in each st around (8 sts)
stuff the head
Round 8: working in back loop only, *sc2tog* (4 sts)
Fasten off and sew the opening closed
Body
With white yarn, ch 4 + 1 turning chain
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next two sts, 4 sc in the next st – turn the piece around and continue along the underside of the chain stitches: 1 sc in each of the next two sts, another 2 sc in the first st of this round (12 sts)
Round 2: *sc in first st, 2 sc in next* (18 sts)
Rounds 3-5: sc in each st around (18 sts)
Round 6: *sc in first st, sc2tog* (12 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Shoulders (2x)
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: *sc2tog* (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Hands (2x)
With red yarn, 8 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Rounds 1-2: sc in each st around (8 sts)
Round 3: *sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog* (6 sts)
Round 4: sc in each st around (6 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Pants
With blue yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 2: sc in each st around (12 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Shoes (2x)
With red yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
sc in each st around (6 sts)
sc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 turning ch
Turn, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 turning ch
Turn, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc into the side of the sole, sc in each of the 5 sts along the front part of the shoe, 1 sc into the other side of the sole (9 sts)
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts (8 sts)
Rounds 2-4: sc in each st around (8 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Ribcage and pelvis (2x)
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
sl st into the next stitch and fasten off
Arms and legs (4x)
With white yarn, ch 5 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each st around
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Neck
With white yarn, ch 2 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each st around
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Spine
With white yarn, ch 4 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each st around
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Cape
With red yarn, ch 8 + 1 turning chain
Work in rows:
Rows 1-6: sc in each st around (8 sts)
At the end of row 6, ch 8 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in the back of each of the 8 chains, then sc in each of the 8 sts of the previous row
ch 8 + 1 turning chain
Turn, sc in each of the 8 chains
Connect to the side of the cape with 1 sl st, then fasten off
Assembly + Armature
Embroider the face with black yarn or embroidery thread (1-2).
Take the parts Body, Shoulders, Hands, Pants, and Shoes, and sc along the opening of each of the parts with yellow yarn (3).
Bend the wire into a two-part armature; make one part for the upper body, one part for the lower body. The size of the crocheted parts determines the size of the armature; use the pictures below as a guide (4-5). Leave the wire forming the spine a bit longer; this is where the parts will be connected.
For the lower part of the armature:
Push the legs of the armature through the pants (6). Stuff the pants and put the pelvis part onto the armature from above (7). Sew the pelvis into the pants (8).
Sew the leg parts around the wire and onto the pants (9). Put the shoes over the ends of the armature. Stuff the shoes and sew them onto the legs (10).
For the upper part of the armature:
Push the arms and neck of the armature through the body from the inside (11). Stuff the body and put the ribcage part onto the armature from below (12). Sew the ribcage into the body (13).
Push the arms of the armature through the shoulders (14). Stuff the shoulders and connect them to the body with some small stitches; make sure the shoulders can still be rotated (15).
Sew the arms around the wire and onto the shoulders (16). Put the hands over the ends of the armature. Stuff the hands and sew them onto the arms (17).
Sew the neck part around the armature and onto the body (18). Push the remaining wire of the armature into the head and sew the head onto the neck (19).
Connect both parts of the armature by twisting the wire together and cut off the rest of the wire (20). Sew the spine part around the connection and onto both the ribcage and the pelvis (21).
Tie the cape around the neck (22). Optionally, secure it with a few stitches.
Finally, embroider the symbol on the body with red and black yarn or embroidery thread.
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your little Papyrus!
(To learn more about this project, check out the annoucement here).
Keep reading for the full pattern with pictures, or download it here as a PDF file for easy printing:
Tiny Gaster Blaster pattern in English
Tiny Gaster Blaster pattern in German
(And when I say tiny, I mean tiny - it’s about 3 cm, or one and a half inches long.)
Abbreviations
Please see this post for a list of the abbreviations used in this pattern.
Materials and Tools
white yarn
black yarn or embroidery thread
stuffing
crochet hook
needle with an eye large enough to fit the yarn through
scissors
Head
With white yarn, 6 sc into magic ring
Work in continuous rounds:
Round 1: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Round 2: *sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the third* (8 sts)
Round 3: *sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the fourth* (10 sts)
Round 4: *sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the fifth* (12 sts)
Rounds 5+6: sc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 7: *sc2tog* (6 sts)
stuff the head and sew the open end closed
Horns
With white yarn, ch 12 + 1 turning chain
turn, sc3tog, sl st, sc4tog, sl st, sc3tog
fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Jaw
With white yarn, ch 15 + 1 turning chain
turn, sc in each st around (15 sts)
fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing
Assembly
Sew the horns and the jaw to the head (1-2). When sewing on the jaw, place it on the bottom of the head in a U-shape. Make sure the open side of the U faces towards the snout, so that it looks like the jawbone is spit in the middle when looking at the blaster from the front. Towards the back of the head, fold the jaw piece to form small bumps/horns where the jaw would attach to the skull (3).
Embroider the face with black yarn or embroidery thread (4-5).
You have reached the end of the pattern. Enjoy your tiny Gaster Blaster!
