Trans Arctic Canoe Expediton - Trip Log @csledzik-blog - Tumblr Blog

Canoeing in Nunavut, Canada

7/8 (8:28p) The folks from Nunavut.

This morning as we finished our breakfast and were about to begin packing our boats we saw the kayakers and pack-boat canoe approaching from down river. Just after 7:00 the group had to have traveled a good 6 miles by this time and we hadn’t even hit the water! They came to our campsite and we realized that they were suited in gear-queer fashioned paddling attire with fully loaded boats and a skirt covering the pack canoe. They docked their boats planning to have breakfast after their morning paddle at our campsite on lookout point. From talking we discovered that they were experienced paddlers who did frequent trips in and around the region planning to paddle to Baker lake over a 31 day span at a rather leisurely pace, not pushing to hard for miles, and escaping any large portages. They continually commented in compliments on the length and audacity of our route saying that we must be making hard miles,

“it must have been two strokes before you guys were gone around the corner yesterday.”

We packed the boats as they took over our morning fire and set off probably not to see them again. (they set down on tundra plane after flying in from baker, were moving to Saskatoon after their “last northern adventure before leaving.”)

The rest of the day was rather smooth as we passed into Nunavut from NWT and are quickly approaching some hard days of portaging. Jeremy, Chase, Sam and I went over the larger-scaled maps detailing the portage route in the thick bugs of camp to get a better feeling of what we’ll be up against. Tomorrow should be our last day on the Thelon, as we’ll start the portaging towards the Morse on day 23, or 7/10. We’re still a few days ahead and look to be in great shape to make it. We’ve reviewed the maps and logs, but more than anything are tightly knit as a group and finely in tune physically.

Above all, our mental tenacity is at an all time high...

... and after enjoying the beautiful and luxurious Thelon, we’re ready to tackle the most important challenge of our trip, the portage that has only been taken once before. Not a single thread of doubt makes up the finely knit group and our determination is unbreakable. We also started discussing as a group plans for when we return to Yellowknife and to MN. In detail they sound great, as I have thought of these things in my head often but paused to say them allowed as being only 3 weeks into a proposed 8 week trip I thought it may be soon to be thinking about “home” just yet. In the mean time I’m enjoying the daily scenery and lifestyle and don ‘t want to miss a moment of the here-and-now.

The Zen attitude is one of the woods, and one I enjoy thoroughly.

DRC: Sunny to the west as we traveled into the cloudy, overcast east. The dreary sky overtook us by mid morning and started sprinkling us with rain, on & off at lunch through dinner, with frequent and long breaks. I caught a small grayling at camp..my 1st! The rain is never hard and doesn’t seem to do much to the arid, rocky ground as it runs off the dry sand and stones into the river.

#wilderness #canoeing #Arctic

The simple life keeps getting simpler.

7/7 (8:17p) Other people?! What, who?

Cruising down the Thelon again today we made 22 miles and are camped at Lookout point, a hillside campsite giving us a view of the river as it bends around a high point. The campsite is littered with ancient rock squares and circles lending evidence that the point has long since been used as semi-permanent establishments offering vantage points in an almost 300degree circular range.

The ability of the group to efficiently make up camp and carry out daily activities is increasingly shown in our tasks being expedited like clock-work.

With six able bodies constantly aware of the little tasks that need done (selecting tent sits, erecting, wood gathering, opening and closing packs needed for cooking, cleaning, putting campsite to bed, etc. We were able to leave the tent, prepare and eat an excellent red-beans & rice dinner w/ bread and close up the kitchen for tonight in just under an hour and a half

…proving that the simple life just keeps getting simpler.

We came across another group on the Thelon river today, two kayakers (solo) and a couple canoeing. Camped for the day on their 7th day since putting in at the Thelon Hanbury junction (the same point we entered the river) the group was taking a day off. Our 4th day from this point, Jeremy spoke briefly to the group and we continued on. They were headed to Baker Lake, and after exchanging pleasantries and inquiring about knowledge of ice from their flights in, we ventured to continue making miles leaving the group alone knowing that just as we are they are seeking the comforts of solitude in the northern oasis of the Thelon.

It was strange to see others and it seems as if we were eager to get away...

... as we broke from our morning floating/leisurely coasting to paddle up, and immediately paddle away after saying hello. We camped early as to postpone the wonderful scenery of the Thelon, though we still made more miles adding onto our cushion in regards to the end of the trip. It will be good to have the extra mileage as a cushion just in case we need it to cross into the Morse or face extra hurdles later on in the trip.

It is important to remember that we are not much more than a 3rd of the way through our journey

... and can not take anything for granted yet as we have seen what setbacks mother nature can deal out in the form of ice. Wind, weather and an assortment of mental mistakes can lead us to more setbacks, and we must stay aware of our surroundings to insure completing the trans-arctic expedition. If anything we can use the extra days to float leisurely on the Back river, or finish the trip early changing our flights if we see fit.

DRC: Overcast day with a beautiful array of clouds at different altitudes and distances with streams of sunshine peering through at different intervals. We saw a light rain through parts of the morning with sparse wind. On look-out point we had the advantage of increased wind decreasing the bug count from previous nights.

#Arctic

The simplicity of minimalism:

7/6 (9:45p) Thirty easy miles

Made 30 miles floating on the Thelon today credited mostly to the lack of wind. We paddled at about a 90% pace for a while in the morning with long drift breaks in between letting the current do the work. We had a floating lunch of PB&J on PB making five miles while coasting for about an hour. With more floating and minimal paddling in the afternoon...

... we totaled thirty miles on the day pushing the 300 mile mark on the trip as well as approaching the Nunvat border...

I caught two good sized lake trout and a 34” northern on a mepps spinner and Jeremy reeled in four grayling using dry flies at the camp site—an impressive second dinner when fried up in garlic/butter/oil.

More eagle sightings today (a moose was spotted yesterday) but overall just in the same of the daily routine.

Chase and I were commenting on how we would miss the lifestyle after the trip is done.

Knowing that tomorrow is only the 20th day we still have a long time to enjoy the days left but I can’t help but think how I will miss the way we live. These relaxing (yet still rigorous physically and mentally in perspective to daily life at home) days on the Thelon showcase the wonders of trip-living.

The simplicity of minimalism:

...cooking over a fire, having planned meals and a daily agenda, enjoying the company of the trip companions. All is being thoroughly enjoyed on this beautiful river.

DRC: sun, some clouds, no wind makes for great day. Bugs not bad on water, but attacked viciously during epic 1.5 hour six fish clean. Wrists bitten badly, but must ignore initial itch and bites don’t swell or irritate: just one of the mental blockades to surpass on the trip, similar to portage mind games(mind body soul, mind-fuck, exp)

#minimalism #arctic #canoeing #wwfcanada

Eerie Crosses, Frigid Visions

7/5 (8:22p) Miles by Mistake with Mosquitoes.

Now that we are happily cruising down the Thelon it seems like we are making miles without even trying. Over 20 miles today mostly in the morning through head wind that didn’t seem to phase us. Though the current definitely helps it is obvious that the group is in a solid groove by the 18th day.

We stopped mid-morning at Hornby Point on the left side of the Thelon river, noted for a cabin where J Hornby and two others perished over a winter. Though the details are cataloged in a book written based on Eric Christensen’s diary—the 17 year old nephew of Hornby who was the last to die of starvation—they are also mentioned in the canoeing book. The cabin had since been caved in with all worthwhile possessions stolen, including the stove and any tools. All that remained was the hollowed out ground from where the men had dug the home from the winter and three wooden crosses placed at their burial sites just ten meters from the cabin. Seeing the timbers that once constructed the crude cabin, which the trappers had made as a winter shelter, brought feelings of uneasiness to think what winters would be like this far north. Even in July the night-time temperatures are frigid and multiple layers must be worn to keep warm if the sun is not present to warm the day. Tree stumps with clear axe markings well above the ground indicate that the men did a fair share of wood chopping in deep snow to provide warmth in the cabin, but without food and unable to find animals to hunt or trap, the men were paralyzed in an icy world to die hungry, cold and tired—a scary reality I wish to avoid by reaching the end of this trip in August. The men were discovered the next year by passers, by as their grave sites are discovered or sought out by wilderness canoeist down the Thelon each summer.

The mosquitoes are particularly bad tonight, with little wind and somewhat of a moist campsite.

Smoking Jeremy’s pipe through bug screen, wearing black fleece over bug shirt, having hundreds cover me, blood smears on the insides of tents as millions hit the outside making it sound like rain, silent "wrrr" turns to roar outside, most intense bugs I’ve ever seen. Swarming like a thick buzzing, crawling biting sucking blanket that follows you throughout the day. Dictates daily activity.

DRC: Bug shirt a must, overcast most of day with some sun late. Jeremy caught 2pike and grayling which we cooked and was delicious. We saw a moose. Three large eagles kept spooking out in front of us flying back and forth (griffons?)

#Arctic #bugs #canoeing

Fourth of July in the Canadian Arctic. Canoeing adventures at its finest. #Canoeing

Feeling Fly on the Fourth of July

7/4 (9:08p) July Fourth Thelon Celebration

We had a relaxing day today on the Thelon to celebrate America’s Independence day as Patriot’s exploring the northland of Canada. Woodhull and Sam attached a stick to the stern of their canoe and Woodhull flew his American flag bandana behind his boat while we paddled 15 mi. today stopping to camp at the narrowest part of the Thelon, setting our tents up on a hill 60 m. above the water looking over a bend in the river, a beautiful sight. We stopped to check out native American chip piles today in a depot of ancient artifacts. In the sand dunes towards the back of a bay near Grassy Island on the Thelon was a stash of Indian artifacts, with some exclusively choice pieces stockade in a singular dune pit collected by arctic Thelon travelers. If you know where to look some of the pieces are in pristine shape, but there is evidence of rock shaping scattered everywhere across the banks of the Thelon.

From the top of the hill near the native chip piles you could also see a memorial for a space-station crash near the Thelon (fact check)…an interesting combination of sights in such close proximity (past/future of human-scientific technological evolution).

I caught a 33” northern pike, rather skinny on a yellow haired, golden mepps, and a nice 29” Lake trout on a larger white/red haired mepps in the quick current in the narrow portion by the campsite.

We had a independence day feast with BBQ included in the Heaven paste, a generous fish portion in the fish chowder and a double cinnamon bread with gobs of mountain cranberry sauce—a true camping natures delicacy. The sauce is made of mountain cranberries, brown sugar, cinnamon and butter simmered over low heat and compliments any type of sweet bread with a natural tangy goodness to rival any outdoor dessert and could match up in a gourmet restaurant against even the best of a pastry carts tasty offerings.

We enjoyed the late evening on the peak of our hillside campsite smoking a few cigars and a tobacco pipe to complete the celebration of America’s birthday.

Thelon River, NWT, Canada

The Thelon River: Northwest Territories, Canada. Arctic.

7/3 (20:38) On the Thelon

We made it to our second milestone of the trip today by arriving on the Thelon River this morning. After leaving Helen Falls via portage this morning via portage from Helen Falls (which was linked with another portage downstream) we paddled into the Thelon mid-morning. The segue way into the river was nothing glorious, but you could see off to the right into the tail end of the Thelon canyon just south of where the river joins the Hanbury.

We lunched at an old abandoned cabin, apparently belonging to the Warden located on the left side of the river, a few hundred yards up from shore. We hiked up the hill with all the necessary lunch supplies feasting on PB&J on Pilot biscuits and cooking some wild-rice soup to warm us from the chilly day.

The cabin was dilapidated with holes in the roof and an opened door; surrounded by trash

... (tattered tarp, half-rusted oil drum that acted to hold our fire, crumbling ply wood, rusty tools, including large carpenter saws, shovels and a bow saw) The inside of the cabin was full of similar rusted utensils, axe handles, and a small table with a small bunk, but mostly barren. Out house around back. Apparently the cabin was a replica of one that had been previously destroyed, the foundation of which I saw on the way back to the canoes. We’re camped a the end of “the gap” a 3 mile stretch of the Thelon with high embanking walls. =

The campsite and its surrounding view is spectacularly gorgeous.

Also a variety of arrowheads, and other native artifacts nearby, most of which look used and discarded.

DRC: Cold, overcast morning with some wind. Sunny afternoon, made 17-18 miles with current but nasty headwind in parts of the Thelon that were wider. Cold evening which should lead to a cold morning on USA 4th July tomorrow.

The most spectacular women I’ve slept next to: Helen Falls. A campsite you could #NeverForget. #Canoeing #WWFCanada

Jounral Entry here: https://csledzik.tumblr.com/post/162724844383/helen-falls-the-best-campsite-in-the-world

#wwf canada #arctic #canoeing #camping

Hanbury River Falls. 7/2/2017 Northwest Territories, Canada canoeing adventure.

Helen Falls: the Best Campsite in the World

7/2 (19:37) Portage to Helen Falls.

A long day of portaging put us up less than 10 miles today. We warmed up with a short 500m. stretch before reaching Dickinson’s Canyon, a beautiful sight full of raging arctic waters.

The portage around the canyon is roughly 2.5 miles which we accomplished in 3.5 hours in the morning

... using a relative half-way mark to set down our gear and return for a second load. The trip log (journal) of the trip we have cataloging a trip on the Hanbury says they took 7 hours on this portage, and considering we all took two trips, the 2.5mi. was quite strenuous as far as a morning’s work goes. We continued on to portage another set which was approximately a mile long.

After a short paddle we reached our campsite on the top of Helen Falls.

Paddling through the set of rapids above the falls was “fun.” It meant risking a swamp that could be deadly if we weren’t able to make it to shore before Helen’s 25ft drop in icy current--though the rapids were rather elementary with only big water. The only concern came from the trip log that referenced a pair of Frenchman who had capsized here, leaving their boat to plummet over the falls as they swam to shore).

We pulled in about 50m before the falls and placed our tents on the river front rocks, just 30m from the falls.

Our kitchen and fire place (where I am writing from now) sits at the height of the falls looking over at the tens of thousands of gallons rushing over every second—a gloriously powerful sight.

After dinner the trip as a group hiked the hill to investigate the famous Morse Cairn. This pile of rocks generally used to mark portage trails or other eventful sites in a tasteful, nature-friendly manner, was assembled by Morse in 1962. Seeing as it is his river we are destined for this was a big moment for the trip.

Inside the cairn is a small waterproof army ammo box with a notepad for passers-by to sign and note.

We read up on the adventures of some of the first trippers to pass by this point as well as many others who have left their mark throughout the years. Most of the trips come through headed towards Baker Lake, or even shorter distances, but it was cool for me to leave a note on behalf of our trip explaining to anyone who may come by how far we are traveling (and more important to the guys on the trip, how far we have been, and how much ice we have overcome).

Bugs are bad so this is wrapping up. Luckily its just mosquitoes still, and black flies have not yet graced us wit their presence.

DRC: some sun, some overcast, humidity higher than usual. The portages we plagued with mosquitoes, as was the campsite before the giant rush of wind coming from up stream that nearly blew my tent over the falls. Extra rocks holding them to the ground should suffice through the night.

Bug shirt- nice on the portages, kept bugs away and was not to hot in the excruciating workout of nearly 4 miles of portaging.

#Camping #waterfalls #Canada #canoetrip #canoeing #Arctic WWF

#Hanbury

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Trans Arctic Canoe Expediton - Trip Log