In Ecuador.

Find out what Dan & Katharine are up to in the Ecuadorian Andes with Latin Link. (www.latinlink.org.uk)

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Despedidas - Goodbyes

My last day at the project was my last full day in Ecuador. My wonderful colleagues organised a goodbye do with the kids - each child game me a rose, a hug and they had all written something in a big card. I just about managed to keep it together - I hate goodbyes! While we ate cake, the heavens opened and the rain leaked into the classroom. When it stopped and we went outside, the clouds looked spectacular, nestled below the volcanoes. After work, my colleagues invited me out for a meal - it was nice to spend more time together. Very thankful for the amazing, dedicated people I got to work with! 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Misahualli 

(Belated post) In October, we headed back to our favourite spot - the stunning jungle town of Misahualli. Dan set off early in the morning to cycle all the way, while I caught the 8 hour long bus from Quito. It was a tough uphill ride, through fog, and cold, and rain, and heat and humidity. Dan was very glad to arrive just as it got dark. Having done the 'touristy' sights on previous visits, it was so good to just lie in hammocks and read books, enjoying the jungle heat and the sounds of birds and cicadas. We went on some walks to explore more of the area, and discovered a sleepy local community by the river and a 'ceibo grande' (giant ceibo tree). We also saw some caimans and ate amazing food. Love Misahualli. <3

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Presidential Palace, Quito

I recently visited the Presidential Palace with a couple of friends. The current president, Rafael Correa, refused to live in the palace and instead, allowed free access for the public. He said that it belonged to the people. 

We saw the cabinet room, where the ministers meet. This leads out onto the balcony where the president waves most Monday mornings during the changing of the guard. 

We saw the meeting room with displays of gifts, received from other nations. Correa certainly isn’t a perfect president, however he has made some very positive and admirable changes. One of which is the decision to not keep the gifts, but to make them available for Ecuadorians to enjoy. Also, any jewelry or watches that have been gifted are now on display for sale - funds from the sale will be directed towards the earthquake damaged coast. 

Then we visited the portrait room, with portraits of all the democratically elected presidents of Ecuador. 

One of the most spectacular parts of the palace is a mosaic mural by Ecuadorian artist Guayasamin, depicting the discovery of the Amazon River. 

Although the building itself is beautiful with its Andalusian design and courtyards, it was Correa’s radical changes which most impressed me. He has ditched tradition in order to stop wasting money on expensive sashes and other unnecessary customs. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Our street

I’m moving out of our lovely flat tomorrow, after nine months living in this lively neighbourhood. I thought I’d show you a few photos of our street, as it’s a fascinating place. Even Ecuadorian friends find it unusually interesting. It’s a great demonstration of what life in Ecuador is like - particularly in the Andes. 

Unlike other Latin American countries, where you can find sprawling shanty towns in the big cities, Ecuador doesn’t seem to suffer from this in the same way. Instead, poor and rich live side by side. There are very few ‘fancy’ neighbourhoods and there are also few ‘poor’ neighbourhoods. People live happily in close proximity. 

This is the case on our street - some houses are big and well-kept, while others are far more basic or run-down. Little shops at the front of people’s homes provide groceries, baked goods, internet, and home-cooked meals. On Fridays evenings, more residents bring their cooking equipment out onto the street and fry/grill their choice offerings for passers-by. 

Saturday nights are lively, as the locals love to party. Loud music can be heard until the early hours of the morning. During the daytime, the most common noises are the gas van and potato truck, blaring out a call to buy their products. 

Some of out loveliest neighbours are the tens of stray dogs who live here. They are cute, friendly and totally harmless. Our favourite dog is called Felipe - there’s a photo of him on Dan’s blog. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Stories behind the faces - part 3

I have been writing these blog posts about the children, because they are truly amazing. Despite the hardship and horrors that some have experienced, they are the most incredibly strong, resilient and inspiring human beings. Their pasts do trouble them and have left their mark, but they don’t let it hold them back. Here are some more stories about these beautiful children... 

L is a bright, friendly and very polite little boy. He lives with his younger brother and sister, his alcoholic dad and mum who has a speech impairment. Every morning he and his brother wake up at 4am to help their mum clean the pigs, ready to be roasted. (Hog roast is a regional specialty). His mum sells pigs’ trotters. It’s a long day for a little boy, waking up so early and leaving for school at 6am, followed by an afternoon at the foundation, where he is always the last child to finish studying. 

I taught T to read this time last year. When he arrived at the foundation, he was so timid, but since learning to read, he has started to come out of his shell, find his voice and become independent in his studying. It has been a joy to seem him grow as a person. My colleague even gave him a Bible which he has started to read at home. Last week, we came face to face with one of this boy’s biggest challenges - his aggressive alcoholic step-father, who appeared at the project one afternoon in a rage. T, his little brother and their six tiny cousins were all terrified of him. T’s baby sister died of neglect last year. 

Thankfully, T has wonderful cousins who play together without judging, teasing or bullying. They can be themselves. One of his cousins is B - a bright, chatty girl, who follows us around like a shadow. Her mum is a single mum of four, who sells mangoes near the project. B and her siblings and cousins help out when needed. However, B and her siblings are in desperate need of dental treatment, as so many of their teeth are rotten. It was good to be able to teach them about dental hygiene and give them toothbrushes and toothpaste. 

M is a troubled teenage boy. His violent father seriously abused his sister and he witnessed it. His father is now serving a life sentence in prison. M is too young to understand what really happened and blames his sister and mother for his father being in prison. Since then he keeps dropping out of school and getting involved in petty crime. I love how the foundation is always willing to give troubled teenagers like M a second (or third, or fourth) chance. 

There are many, many children in the S family. The father(s) are absent and the mother recently died. The seven children are being looked after by their older, grown up sister. However, this sister also has a husband a three children of her own. Even with a regular income, the financial burden is too large. The foundation is able to support the children by providing school material, a big lunch, school support and a safe place to play while the older sister is at work. 

All the children at the foundation face daily challenges with dysfunctional families, low income and the need to work to support their families. Thankfully, they have people fighting their battles with them - they know they’re not alone and have a safe place to come and chat, eat, learn from the Bible, study and play. There may be battles but there are also so many joys and blessings. They have taught me so much. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Toothbrushes

When my parents visited us in the summer, they brought 40 toothbrushes and toothpastes. Dental products are outrageously expensive in Ecuador, so they aren't really affordable for many large families. I invited small groups at a time to participate in a "dental care chat" where we discussed diet and how to brush teeth. The foundation also received a donation of mouthwashes, so we were able to give them out to each family. After the chat, I got them to practice brushing their teeth - for some of the younger ones, this was their first time using a toothbrush!

We identified this as a key issue earlier in the year, as we noticed the children have huge holes in their molars and some have rotting front teeth. We also sent a letter home for the parents, to let them know about the toothbrushes and highlight their responsibility to teach their children to care for their teeth.

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Capilla del Hombre & Casa de Guayasamin

Last month, I visited the wonderful house of famous Ecuadorian artist, Guayasamin, and his adjoining museum named ‘Chapel of Man’.  The house is fascinating; crammed full of pre-Columban art and ceramics, sculptures by indigenous artists from the Quito School of Art, and other religious artifacts. It is both decadent and simplistic. 

The museum next door overlooks Quito, with fantastic views of the city and the towering Pichincha volcano. The museum was designed by the artist and he created many pieces specifically for the building. The museum depicts four key stages of the artist’s work and demonstrates the artist’s love for his fellow countrymen. 

Guayasamin had a deep sense of social justice and awareness for the injustices that Ecuadorians suffered; particularly the indigenous peoples. He was also very politically aware of other injustices across the continent and further afield, such as the brutal military dictatorships in Argentina and Chile. 

The artist was aware of his responsibility as a much-loved public figure with influential friends, such as Fidel Castro, Mercedes Sosa and Francois Mitterand, to make injustices known to the world. 

This was one of the most interesting and inspiring museums I have ever visited. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Antisana

Forgot to upload these photos from the summer holiday camp. We took fifty 5-18 year olds to Antisana National Park, about an hour from the market town where the project is based. It is absolutely beautiful but freezing cold in the park. The children saw deer, condors, rabbits and other wildlife - many for the first time! It was a great day. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Ecuador soundtrack

I thought I’d give you a rundown of some songs and sounds that we hear often in Ecuador and have become the soundtrack to our time here. Some are enjoyable, while others are completely irritating. You guess which....

1) At number one, the gas van. It drives around all day long, blaring out the same old words as it goes. “El gas el gas, gas al domicilio, el tanque azul, el gas el gas...” There are also other vans, such as the van that buys scrap metal and the van that sells “una buena papa” (a good potato). 

2) At number two, it’s Enrique Iglesias. This Spanish-American is adored in Ecuador and his songs are played daily on the buses. His songs are guaranteed to get stuck in your head for the rest of the day, whether you like it or not. 

3) We have loved listening to the Quichua music and watching the dancing.

 (skip to 5 minutes and 10 minutes into the video)

4) The kids learned a wonderful choreography to this song, about child labour and education. They presented it to local officials and emergency services during the event we held for the ‘Day for the child Labourer’ earlier this year. They were amazing. The song is called “Creeré” (I will believe). 

4) I get to sing some great songs at church each week. Here’s a video with lots of different songs. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Last of the visitors

We spent a great two weeks with my brother and his fiancée at the end of the summer. Together, we ate lots of typical Ecuadorian food, went to the famous Otavalo market, explored some of Quito, celebrated my brother’s birthday, visited an ecological reserve and spontaneously went to see a bull fight (chagra). 

During the week, while we were at work, they went travelling to see more of the country, including Quilotoa and the rainforest. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Minga

During the summer holidays, the foundation has had a face-lift. Thanks to donations from the US, they have been able to replace the leaky roof with a brand new one, as well as give the place a lick of paint. When the builders finished their part of the job, it was time for us to get involved...

Ecuadorians regularly hold DIY community events called 'Mingas'_[meen-gahs]. These are events that benefit the community or a worthy cause by getting people together for some manual work and cooperation. My first experience of a Minga was a couple of weeks ago when we invited teenagers and parents linked to the project to come along and help us to paint the project buildings. It was wonderful to see young people and their parents come along and give something back to the foundation which has given them so much support over the years. It was also really special to be able to work alongside them for the day and feel proud of the work we achieved at the end.

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Ice Skating

We have enjoyed lots of day trips with the kids at the project during the summer holidays, including visits to a planetarium, volcano, lagoon and an ice rink. The fire fighters or military have provided free transport on all occasions, which has been a huge help.

Last week, we had so much fun taking 40 kids aged 5-19 to an ice rink in downtown Quito. They may have spent more time on their bums on the freezing ice, but they absolutely loved their first time ice skating!

[dan-kat-ecuador]

One year

We have been in Ecuador 1 year!

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Goodbyes and positive thinking.

I was dreading saying goodbye to my parents at the end of their visit; even before they had arrived in Ecuador. I have a history of feeling incredibly homesick after they visit me abroad, so I was anticipating an even worse bout of homesickness on this longer time away. I counted down the days to their departure with dread, and when it finally came to the goodbye, I was standing in the middle of a crowded pavement in Old Town Quito, hugging my mum, with tears blurring my vision. I hate goodbyes.

However, as I caught the bus back to my flat and reflected on the month I had spent with my parents in Ecuador, I was just overwhelmed by the love, support, encouragement and generosity they had shown me. They are amazing and I am so grateful for them. Then, I turned my thoughts to the next day, when I would return to work at the project for child labourers.

I was struck by the contrast between my incredibly privileged life and their daily struggles. How many of the children I work with each day don't have loving, supportive, encouraging or generous parents? While poverty naturally prevents some parents from being materially generous, sadly the poverty we see day to day extends beyond the material. Child labour may the the thing that draws the children to the project, but their problems often run much deeper. We work with children from dysfunctional families, neglective families, abusive families...

How could I feel sorry for myself and mope around the flat, because I can't be with my wonderfully loving family, when some of these children don't have anyone to show them love?! There and then on that bus, I decided to put aside my sadness and tears at saying goodbyes and think more positively. I have very little time left in Ecuador and it needs to count. I can't provide the children with a stable, loving family, but I can show them love, support and encouragement. I am in the privileged postion of being able to teach them, motivate them and comfort them.

I have three months left in Ecuador and I am going to use them positively.

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Valle de los Chillos

One of the best things about having family to visit from England was that they could experience real life in Ecuador. We live in Valle de los Chillos ("Corn Valley"), on the south-eastern outskirts of Quito. While Quito is full of tourist attractions, it doesn't give an authentic impression of the country. On the other hand, Valley de los Chillos is a great example of Andean Ecuador, as it is a popular place for migrants from smaller Andean towns and villages. In the valley you can find traditional food, people wearing traditional Quichua dress and lively markets.... and the views are stunning!

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Molinuco

Towards the end of my parents’ visit, we headed to Molinuco Ecological Reserve. The waterfalls were a little dried-up because of dry season, but it’s still a really spectacular setting in a valley surrounded by eucalyptus trees and cascades. 

[dan-kat-ecuador]

Otavalo

We headed up to Otavalo for the weekend. This city is famous for its artisan market, selling beautiful handicrafts, textiles, paintings, etc. but it has so much more to offer! 

We started by wandering around the small town of Peguche on the outskirts of Otavalo. There are weaving workshops there, as well as a waterfall. We later headed over to the Plaza de Ponchos (Poncho Square!) to visit the market. 

Although the items sold in Otavalo’s market are beautiful, it was Otavalo’s stunning Quichua people who really made the visit memorable. While in many parts of Ecuador the Quichua people are sadly and unfairly treated as second-class citizens, in Otavalo they run the city. They are a proud of their language, culture, dress and heritage. It is so wonderful to see nearly all local people walking around the city in traditional Quichua dress. 

While Quichuas are the largest indigenous people group in Ecuador, their dialects and style of dress vary between different regions. In Otavalo the men have long plaited hair and wear hats and sometimes ponchos. The women wear long wrap-around black skirts, large embroidered white blouses, gold-beaded necklaces with many layers, plaited hair wrapped in an embroidered band called a zumbia, a colourful embroidered belt called a faja, and a headscarf. They are unbelievably beautiful and dignified people. 

Otavalo has a dramatic setting at the foot of the Imbabura volcano. The San Pedro lagoon lies next to the city and the surrounding countryside is full of significant monuments and spots for indigenous ceremonies and festivities.