This is one of the most unconventional perfumes I’ve made, owing to two particular ingredients. Feel free to stop here if you’re uncomfortable reading about animal-derived ingredients, or are squeamish in general.
Traditionally, musk notes in perfumery were literally derived from the musk of animals. Nowadays they’re comprised of synthetic ingredients in commercial perfumes.
Castoreum is a type of musk extracted from the anal glands of beavers. I was randomly given a small sample of castoreum (still unsure why, to be honest), and since Sally wanted a perfume that was musky, warm and skin-like, she was ok with me using castoreum in her scent - better than letting it go to waste. It’s a dark brown, watery absolute that smells predictably but subtly animalic, blending easily with other notes.
The second atypical ingredient in this scent is the base note of Ambroxan, which I solubilised at a fairly hefty portion. Ambroxan is the modern replacement for ambergris, another outmoded traditional perfumery ingredient - solid secretions from the bile ducts of sperm whales, found either floating in the sea, washed up on beaches, or in the abdomens of dead whales (although it usually leaves whales via the bowel). Like castoreum, ambergris was once commonly used to imbue perfumes with a musky, earthy scent.
Ambroxan however, is a naturally occurring terpenoid, a molecule usually attained through extraction from clary sage. It smells nothing like clary sage though but rather, how (I assume) ambergris smells - musky, skin-like, slightly sweet. To my nose it also smells a bit like clean laundry, with faint leather notes? Commercial perfumes built specifically around Ambroxan include Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules and Not A Perfume by Juliette Has A Gun.
The resulting perfume I made is amber-y, animalic, musky and luxurious smelling, with strong incense notes. I included jasmine at an extremely tiny proportion purely to add sweetness to all the heavy, churchy, resinous notes - not enough for the perfume to fall into the floral category, or to even smell discernibly like jasmine.










