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Origami Around

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@designernadia
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🌻 I always love to explore my culture with creativity ....and I find this beautiful outcome 💕☺️ and obviously.... a long way to go more!!!!😇
Antimicrobial Fabric
An antimicrobial fabric is a man-made or natural fiber treated with an active ingredient that protects it from microbial growth.
over two decades of experience in the textile arena, Microban has created unique antimicrobial technologies to effectively combat staining and odors that can build up irrevocably in fabrics.
antimicrobial fabrics are successfully utilized for apparel, sporting equipment, pet products, privacy curtains, and many other products used in an array of environments.
Antimicrobials are classified generally as
beta-lactams
macrolides
quinolones
tetracyclines or aminoglycosides.
reference: eco-chic fashion paradox by sandy black
Antimicrobial textiles are functionally active textiles, which may kill the microorganisms or inhibit their growth. The present article expl
#university of Portsmouth library ☺️
#resarch&practice
We cannot simply sit and stare at our wounds forever. We must stand up and move on to the next action.
🍀🍀🍀Absolutely right! Because if we miss one action literally we will miss next....life will not give you a chance again and again...! We need to grab an appropriate one for us☺️ 🍀🍀🍀
20 January 2022
Got exposed to covid so now I’m stuck at home isolating until my test comes back today or tomorrow. Luckily most of my professors have been accommodating and I’ve been able to get the notes from other students. Woke up early to do some reading notes I didn’t get to yesterday. Hopefully today goes well and I come back negative so I can get back to class and work.
Currently listening to: Why Am I the One? by fun.
🍀🍀🍀 life is love....love is passion.... passion force you towards your life....that is motivation to make your life successful and happy 🍀🍀🍀
#electrothermal
Carbon fabric (CF) is one type of high performance carbon fibers with a carbon content of more than 95%, which possesses a series of compelling properties, such as high specific strength, high thermal stability, excellent electrical conductivity, and superior fatigue resistance. CF can be an ideal material choice to serve as a favorable electrical heating element in a heater with distinctive features of better air-permeability, flexibility and Wear ability. Woolen yarn is also widely used as a material for heating products due to its good thermal insulation effects.
Currently, most heating products to address the warmth retention issues are fabricated with solar energy heating materials, phase change materials, chemical energy heating materials, and electric heating materials to store or generate heat.
The electrothermal fabric could achieve a steady-state temperature of 75.4 °C in 30 s under 10 V voltage. designed cotton fabrics coated with graphene/ polyurethane composite using pad-dry-cure process. This process enhanced the far-infrared emissivity up to 0.911 and the obtained fabrics reached the destination temperature of 100 °C in 5 min 58 s.
It is highly desirable to explore more facile and versatile techniques to develop highly flexible and efficient infrared radiation heating textiles with advanced material selection and rational structure design.
Reference:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6836122/
#Water repellent fabrics
🌊 repellent fabrics are those which resist being wetted by water; the water drops will simply roll off the fabric. A fabric’s resistance to water will depend on the nature of the fiber surface, the porosity of the fabric and the dynamic force behind the impacting water spray.
🌊The water repellent fabrics have the ability to resist wetting whereas water-proof fabrics are impermeable to water even at high hydrostatic pressure and also usually impervious to air. Water repellency of a fabric depends on several factors: including nature of the fibers, yarn structure, fabric porosity, finish applied and water impact force. Some fabrics such as those made from cotton easily wet out as compared to those made from hydrophobic fibers such as polypropylene. Generally, fabrics or other surfaces which have high surface free energy have better wetting as compared to those of lower surface free energy. In water repellent fabric, rain water drop can be block but at the same time perspiration can be out. Since the entire fabric is not coated, the fabric remains breathable and repels raindrops such as rainwater.
🌊Higher repellency or poor wetting with water and oil as well as resistance to staining are essential for various end uses in clothing, home and technical textiles. The behavior of the textile strongly depends on its surface structure.
🌊Processes in which interstices of the cloth as well as the, surface of the fibers, are covered with a film or skin so that the goods & not-only water shedding but impermeable to air and moisture.
🌊Processes whereby the fibers are made water repellent through coating with hydrophobic substance or by a chemical reaction, but the fabric remains porous to air.
🌊we designers and scientist are trying our best to do for human being with technology and creativity ☺️
Reference book: Future textile
Water Repellent: We introduce the role and the mechanism of action of Water Repellent.
#pied-de-coq
The pied-de-coq pattern was born between 360 and 100AC. It belongs to the traditional Scottish Tartan Fabrics Family, and was mainly diffused in the Scottish Lowland, near the Anglosaxon border, that’s why its also called Border Tartan.
As one of the more ancient tartan types, houndstooth was probably adopted by those clan-fights-free individuals and originally made on a woven wool cloth. woven fabric decorated by black & white broken checks named à la francaise “pied-de-poule”, after its litt feet resembling shape. The bicolor pattern appears seasonally in shop windows and around town both in black and white and colorful variations with a strong optical effect.
In 1950 pied-de-poule becomes Christian Dior’s first fragrance signature: he made an outstanding vertical packaging decorated in the bicolor pattern to highlight the dualism of Miss Dior.After years and years of use and innovative pied-de-poule in sportswear, winter or elegant and elitarian as seen on Oscar de la Renta’s 1992 catwalks, the pattern goes up to the '90s wrapped in a high aura, which it maintains until 2009 .
2010 onwards, all the most important fashion houses adopt it, mainly in the classic black and white version, making it the main trend of the cold season both on the runways and in fast-fashion chains: from Chanel to Balmain, from Area to Moncler.
Reference book: fabric in fashion design
🌸 Angel skin 🌸
In 1930s , from Albene lightweight, soft and delicate with lustrous smoothness satin was invented which was called Angel skin .
Lustrous thread like, rayon or viscose imitation with natural silk and fabric which become like angel's skin, that's why this fabric was called Angel skin.
Usually, Angel skin uses 12 harness satin that allows for great draping as well as it was used for pajama and beach wear which trend next used to make women's wide pants also which appears wide , silky and smooth.
In the 20th century, this fabric was modified by 5 harness satin and 8 harness satin and with polymers to give a matte look, appears floating warp thread in both side and the third variation is like swan skin. Now a days designer use this different variation fabric for different purpose like evening gown , beach wear, party wear , lingerie etc.
Reference book: fabric in fashion design
by stefanella sposito.
#UPF( ultraviolet Protection factor)
UPF is strongly dependent on the chemical structure of the fibres. The nature of the fibres influences the UPFs as they vary in UV transparency. Natural fibres like cotton, silk, and wool have a lower degree UVR absorption than synthetic fibres such as PET. Cotton fabric in a grey state provides a higher UPF because the natural pigments, pectin, and waxes act as UV absorbers, while bleached fibres have high UV transparency. Raw natural fibres like linen and hemp possess a UPF of 20 and 10 to 15 respectively, and are not perfect UV protectors even with lignin content. However, the strong absorption of jute is due to the presence of lignin, which acts as a natural absorber. Protein fibres also have mixed effects in allowing UV radiation. Dyed cotton fabrics show higher UPF, and undyed, bleached cotton yields very poor UPF values. Wool absorbs strongly in the region of 280 - 400 nm and even beyond 400 nm. Exposure to sunlight damages the quality of silk's colour, strength and resiliency in both dry and wet conditions. Mulberry silk is deteriorated to a greater extent than muga silk. Bleached silk and bleached PAN show very low UPFs of 9.4 and 3.9 respectively. Polyester fibres absorb more in the UV A & UV B regions than aliphatic polyamide fibres.
Reducing the exposure time to sunlight, using sunscreens and protective clothes are the three ways of protection against the deleterious effects of UV radiation. Apart from sunscreen lotions, textile materials and accessories made of textile materials are largely used for UV protection. UV protection through textiles include various apparels, accessories such as hats, shoes, shade structures such as umbrellas, awnings, and baby carrier covers and the fabric materials to produce these items.
Reference: book :
Advanced in functional and protective textile
https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-prevention/sun-protection/sun-protective-clothing/
#origami
Origami is an art culture with over a thousand years of history. It is the art of folding any type of materials to create sculptural designs. The ultimate goal of this art is to create three dimensional sculptural forms into through folding and sculpting technique,
Japanese paper folding was called orisue (折据, literally “folded setting down”) or origata (折形, folded shape) in the Edo Period. Building on the same root, oru (折, to fold), it later became orimono (折り物, folded thing) before finally settling into the very literal origami (折紙, folded paper) sometime between the late 19th and mid-20th centuries.
Over the past few years, the fashion industry has taken a liking to origami, since the technique is useful in creating new types of geometrical dresses. Origami folding techniques can be used to make decorative fabric folds in blouses, pleats, and so on.
in 2009, designer Andre Lima featured origami in his Spring collection, with many of the dresses having strong geometric designs. The following year, designer Georgina Chapman introduced origami-inspired dresses in the Spring/Summer 2010 collection. In 2012, Lea Freni showcased the “Fibonacci skirt,” which was modeled after the folding patterns in origami. In 2016, Sid Neigum debuted his origami collection at the London Fashion Week.
One of the famous fashion designers from Japan who incorporates origami in some of his clothes is Junya Watanabe. His Autumn/Winter 2015 collection was full of 3-dimensional forms. The 2016 Fall collection also included 3D cut origami-like clothes that were made from industrial neoprene.
Reference: structure and surface............contemporary Japanese textiles
Modern Japanese origami is actually heavily influenced by traditional European paper folding!
🌸_Lace_🌸 which is the fabric of grandma's but also a textile of childhood 🌸🤍
🌸 lace is delicate , web-like fabric that textile producers can manufacture using a wide range of techniques. Traditionally, lace usually consisted of silk or linen threads and some textile artisans even made this fabric using gold or silver thread. Varying significant in complexity, different types of laces are commonly used to decorate garments, upholstery and home wares.
🌸Italy or Dalmatian ( the costal region of former Yugoslavia) was the origin of lace where as European were the inventory of the lace in 15th century. During the spread of technology and fashion it became popular all over the world.
🌸 lace comes from different shades, shape, patterns and width but there are basically two types of lace:
🌸__ needle lace
🌸__Bobbin lace
There are also many types of lace from basic all over embroidered net lace to delicate Chantilly lace .
🌸lace is decorative fabric which have variety of use throughout home and fashion.
🌸lace trim
🌸lace collars and shawls
🌸 curtains and drapes
🌸bridal wear
🌸Lingerie
🌸In 2022, lace took place all over the fashion industry, inner garments to weeding dresses, party wear to denim fusion even accessories and decorations. Designers nowadays can apply lace in various way, upcoming seasons and events. Technology are trying to increase the production of lace , quality of lace with variation.
Reference: world Textile by John gillow and Bryan senttance
https://blog.treasurie.com/types-of-lace/
https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/lace-fashion-threads-of-power-exhibition
"Dakai Muslin"
The finished cloth woven on looms which have barely altered over the centuries, was sought after by royalty and traded globally across countries of the Middle East and Europe during the 16th and 17th centuries, earning enormous revenue for those involved in its trade. Tragically, the industry was deliberately and cruelly erased by past colonial rulers, especially the East India Company and replaced with their machine-made fabrics in the 19th century.
Dhaka muslin, a precious fabric imported from the city of the same name in what is now Bangladesh, then in Bengal. It was not like the muslin of today. Made via an elaborate, 16-step process with a rare cotton that only grew along the banks of the holy Meghna river, the cloth was considered one of the great treasures of the age.
There were many different types, but the finest were honoured with evocative names conjured up by imperial poets, such as "baft-hawa", literally "woven air". These high-end muslins were said to be as light and soft as the wind. they were so fluid you could pull a bolt – a length of 300ft, or 91m – through the centre of a ring.
The process of manufacturing muslin was complex and lengthy. The process maintained clearly defined, customary roles among those involved so that while the spinning of the yarn was done by women the men were responsible for the weaving. Interestingly, this is often the case to this day.
Once the cotton had been harvested, groups and communities of skilled craftspeople would convert the raw material into the desired cloth through a painstaking process that verged on a ritual. Developed through trial and experience, the steps were performed in skilled groups handing over their product to the next in an informal choreography of craftsmanship. Historians and researchers have also noted that the finest thread was spun by women who were from 18 to 30 years old.
The spinning could only be done in the early morning or late afternoon since during these periods the more humid air would allow the cotton filaments to stretch. On occasion, water bowls would be placed in the rooms dedicated to spinning to increase the humidity.
It was largely a time-consuming and labour-intensive work that demanded enormous patience and skill. Months would pass as the form of jamdani’s motifs were created directly on the cloth using the discontinuous weft technique. Over time another masterpiece would roll off the loom, ready for royal use.
Today the team have plants growing continuously, though they were forced to abandon the old farm plot due to flooding issues. Now they’re growing the resurrected phuti karpas on a nearby riverbank but also export muslin sari all over the world.
As it happens, so does the Bangladeshi government, who have given the project their backing. "It’s a matter of national prestige, we are also keen to upgrade the country’s image. "It’s important that our identity is not poor, with a lot of garment industries, but also the source of the finest textile that ever existed,"
Reference: https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20210316-the-legendary-fabric-that-no-one-knows-how-to-make
________"patience and the mulberry leaf become a silk gown"_________
in 2640 B.C. Chinese princess Xi Ling Shi was the first to reel a cocoon of silk which, legend also has it, had dropped into her cup of tea. From that historic moment, the Chinese discovered the life cycle of the silk worm and for the next 3000 years were to keep their monopoly of silk.
In the 3rd Century B.C., Chinese silk fabrics were beginning to find their way throughout the whole of Asia, and were transported overland to the west, and by sea to Japan. In the 7th Century, the Arabs conquered the Persians, capturing their magnificent silks in the process, and helped to spread sericulture and silk weaving as they swept victoriously through Africa, Sicily and Spain. In the 10th Century, Andalusia was Europe's main silk-producing centre.
The next significant event in the development of the silk industry was the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 Throughout the 18th Century, silk continued to prosper in Europe, Japan and above all in China. European missionaries to China reported that "even the simplest soldiers are dressed in silk".The 19th Century is characterised by two contradictory trends: increased mechanisation and the consequent increase in productivity in the silk industry.
The early part of the 20th Century, the silk industry succeeded in maintaining a strong position through its technical innovations and the development of silk blended with other fibres.
#Four loom parts made of bronze were excavated from the Shizhaishan site, Jinning, Yunnan Province. They consist of a warp beam, a heddle rod, a weft beater, and a cloth beam. Together they form a simple backstrap loom. They were constructed of wood and bamboo and discovered at the bottom of a wooden coffin, along with remnants of silk threads and dyes.
Shiny, lustrous, soft yet strong, it can be beautifully and brilliantly dyed.China Is the World's Foremost Silk Producer.
🍀Silk moths lay around 500 eggs during their lifebspan of four to six days. After the eggs hatch, the caterpillars are fed a diet of mulberry leaves in a controlled environment. Their body weight increases substantially.
🍀After storing up enough energy, the silk caterpillars (silkworms) surround themselves with fibers of a white jelly-like substance. Their cocoons resemble white, yellow, pink, and brown furry balls. They are pretty.
🍀After eight or nine days, the silkworms (actually caterpillars changing into moths) are killed. The cocoons are lowered into hot water to loosen up the tight protective filaments that are then unraveled, wound onto a spool, and later spun into thread. The cocoon filaments might be 600 to 900 meters long! Several filaments are twisted together to make a thread.
Reference: Textiles the whole story by Thames & Hudson
https://artsandculture.google.com/story/weaving-techniques-silk-manufacturing-machines-china-national-silk-museum/RgUxqvk1aTuFLQ?hl=en
https://www.chinahighlights.com/travelguide/culture/chinese-silk.htm
🍂___Ikat fabric___🍂
🍂Ikat fabric is essentially fabric that has undergone a process known as resist dying. It is not a print on fabric, nor a fabric weaved out of different colored or complexed yarn, but, it is formed by dying warp and weft before weaving it, that ultimately ends up as a piece of beautifully woven cloth.
Ikat is a more complex type of resist dyeing that 🍂requires much planning and consideration even before the weaving begins.
It is an intricate process that requires a great deal of skill and accuracy. Warp and weft yarns can be tied and then dyed before weaving begins.
🍂There are three different Ikat weaving techniques. These are warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat.Ikat is usually described using terms that refer to which threads are dyed.
🍂Warp Ikat: where only the warp threads are bound. This is the most common.
🍂Weft Ikat: where only the weft threads are bound.
🍂Compound Ikat: where both the warp and weft threads are bound, but their designs are independent of each other.
🍂Double Ikat: where both the warp and weft threads are bound, but their designs work together to create the overall pattern. This technique is the most rare due to how complicated and difficult it is to create.
🍂Material: cotton, silk, silk cotton
🍂 Place of origin: Indonesia
🍂Manufacturer: Indonesian
🍂All this dyeing is done before start weaving. When the dyed warp is eventually put on the loom, there is a general shifting and relaxing of the yarns. While the undyed areas appear in a straight line remove the binding, they don’t stay that way forever. Inevitably, when the warp is put on the loom, there is a shifting. The edges move up and down slightly until the warp is tied on. This feathering edge is what makes these fabrics so unmistakable and instantly recognizable. Structurally, these fabrics are woven to highlight the patterning. They often have a dense sett (number of warp threads per inch) and woven in a simple structure such as plain weave, rep weave, or a satin.
🍂The history of ikat pattern is not tied to any one country or culture. It is like so many other crafts in life, it seems to have been simultaneously developed in different regions of the world at around the same time. Although it is generally thought to have derived from Indionesia. In Indonesia ikat pattern is known for its beautiful red and indigo patterns woven into the sarongs and shawls associated with their culture.
Ikat pattern is in the Japanese indigo versions known as ‘kasuri’ but it was a technique that evolved in many countries – from Japan, to India, Asia, Central America, Argentina to Bolivia, Uzbekistan.
Reference: Book Beverly Gordon ___Textiles the whole story ___Thames & Hudson
https://indigowares.com/how-is-ikat-pattern-made/
https://sewport.com/fabrics-directory/ikat-fabric
The red gold of the mexico 🐞♦️(cochineal)♦️🐞
Nopalli & Cochineal
♦️The nopal (Spanish term, from nopalli in Nahuatl), or prickly pear cactus, has been a source of food for indigenous people across Mesoamerica since pre-Columbian times. The tender, newer pencas (branches or leaves) are scraped to remove the thorns, then diced, and cooked. The nopal will also bear edible fruit, called tunas in Spanish, that come in red, green, and white.
♦️The red dye, cochineal (cochinilla, in Spanish) comes from a beetle that grows on the nopal cactus. It was a dye that was developed in pre-Columbian times and continues to be a product used in dying many products today, including Oaxacan textiles.
" cochinilla” is an animal-based dye used since prehispanic times in indigenous religious activities. Its commercial importance grew at the end of the sixteenth century as industrial textile production expanded in Europe and the demand for dyes (especially red dye) increased dramatically. Oaxaca, at that time, was the world’s dominant producer of cochineal. The dye was sent to other parts of New Spain and to the port of Veracruz for exportation to Europe. Oaxaca lost its monopoly over cochineal in the nineteenth century owing to competition with other countries and because of the discovery of artificial dyes in Germany around 1860.
♦️Not limited to clothing, cochineal (or carmine, as it’s also called) is used to give alcoholic beverages, cosmetics, shampoo and pharmaceuticals a bright red color.
♦️It’s also used in food. In 2012, cochineal made headlines when Starbucks faced a public relations furor. Vegetarians and others who didn’t like the idea of eating bugs learned that the source of the red color in popular food items such as their Red Velvet Whoopie Pie and Strawberries and Crème Frappuccino contained insect guts.
♦️But the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has tested and approved cochineal as a food coloring. To make this more appealing to consumers, it's often listed by other designations.other names for cochineal or carmine: E120, carminic acid, crimson lake or natural red 4.
♦️♦️ Reference:book♦️♦️ Beverly Gordon----Textiles the whole story ----Thames & Hudson.
https://www.thenotsoinnocentsabroad.com/blog/cochineal-red-how-bugs-created-one-of-the-worlds-most-expensive-colors