[emmyhermes]

Florence, The Beacon of the Renaissance - Recap

The final addition of my blogging project with tour operator Your Friend in Italy, is dedicated to my absolute favorite city in all of Italy - Florence. Florence lies in the hills of Tuscany and is neighbors of one of the most scene coastal views in the world.

Part 4: Florence

http://www.yourfriendinitaly.com/blog/contrasts-of-italy-florence/

Tucked away in the foothills of Tuscany lies the next stop on our “Contrasts of Italy” blog series. Renowned for its unmatched landscape, the region of Tuscany is situated north of Rome and south of Venice in a fairly central area of Italy. Before we fully dive into our observation of one particular city within the Tuscan border, let’s perform a quick interactive exercise so that you can easily form an accurate mental image of the region.

Take a second to open a new page of your browser and type the word “winery” into your search engine. Review the results at your leisure. Once you’ve wholly absorbed the images that are displayed, navigate back to your search engine and type “Tuscany.” Very similar, yes? This is Tuscany in a nutshell – expansive plains, vivid greenery, and rolling hills as far as the eye can see. Of course, with scenic views such as this, it is no wonder that this area is celebrated worldwide for its exquisite cuisine and wine, specifically in Chianti.

In addition to exceptional wines, Tuscany is home to some of the country’s most unique and picturesque cities. Siena, for instance, is a completely walled town that still retains its medieval identity in the modern world. Pisa, on the other hand, owns one of the most universally recognized architectural wonders (hint: it leans) along with numerous other museums and churches. The largest and most populated city, however, is Florence (Firenze in Italian) – the birthplace of Renaissance art and culture and my personal favorite in all of Italy.

To the untrained eye, Florence may appear to be a very traditional city, one with roots planted so deep that it has left little room for growth through the ages. Aesthetically, and not unlike the majority of European cities, Florence has kept its classic facade that includes architectural stamps from its past. However, one quickly realizes after only a short period of time that in keeping with its revitalizing ethos of the Renaissance era, Florence continues to be a lively and diverse city with an active community that lives and thrives very much in the present.

The people of Florence are very welcoming. They are romantics who inherently hold a deep appreciation for the arts. Witness it for yourself as you walk hand-in-hand with your loved one on a balmy summer night, absorbing the city lights as a nearby guitarist softly plays his gentle tune.

It’s probably no surprise that the art of Florence alone is worthy of its own four-part blog series. However, for the sake of time, listed below are my personal top must-sees in no particular order.

Basilica di Santa Maria – Known widely as simply “The Duomo,” this iconic landmark aides in giving this city its unique skyline. The historic cathedral is often described by travelers as being built “inside out.” In contrast to most cathedrals, particularly those of the Gothic style, The Duomo’s exterior is intricately decorated while its interior almost pales in comparison. The church’s dome offers stellar birds eye views, but be forewarned that there is no elevator option to avoid the over 400 stairs to the top.

Galleria dell’Accademia – If you are to see only one art museum in all of Florence, in all of Tuscany, in all of Italy, this is it. Michelangelo’s original David sculpture stands tall and proud in the hallways of this gallery and his perfection is simply unmatched. If your visit lands in high tourist season, be sure to wait out the crowds in order to truly soak in the complexity of this art piece. The museum also holds some of the artist’s lesser known pieces along with a top notch exhibit on the entire sculpting process.

Piazzale Michelangelo – After quite a bit of stair climbing, travelers are greeted at the top of this serene elevated park by a Statue of David replica and one of the best panoramic views imaginable, day or night. Artists of all types are commonly seen perched on the hill’s ledge, replicating the scene on their canvases. In addition, there are several rose gardens surrounding the property that act as an idyllic route option as you eventually, albeit reluctantly, trek back down to the city center.

Ponte Vecchio – This covered bridge is one of the oldest to span the Arno River to date. What was once used as a marketplace for butchers and farmers is now used as a space to sell upscale jewelry and the like. Whether or not you are in the market for something shiny, a walk across this bridge is mandatory.

From Florence to the Cinque Terre

Once you’ve marvelled at Florence, you cannot leave Tuscany without taking a trip to the Cinque Terre. Similar to the Amalfi Coast in terms of beauty, the Cinque Terre (pronounced chin-que tear-ea) is composed of five seaside fishing villages along the Italian coast that are connected via local commuter trains, boats and hiking trails. Otherwise, vehicles of any type are nonexistent. The “five lands” and their surrounding hillsides and coastlines are part of the Cinque Terre National Park and are recognized as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Due to its lack of corporate presence, these villages rely heavily on tourism and farming revenue to fuel their modest economies.

The cities listed from north to south are as follows: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Several tour options from Florence are available, mostly day trips that will guide you through the area. I chose a tour that was hiking intensive, but we were also able to take the train at the end so that we could experience some coastal views between cities in addition to the hiking trails. There is absolutely no wrong approach to visiting the Cinque Terre, simply a wrong decision if left out of the travel itinerary completely.

At this time, we have covered Enchanting Venice, Eternal Rome, Tenacious Naples, Serene Sorrento and Florence, the Beacon of the Renaissance. We’ve also touched on the Amalfi Coast and the Cinque Terre. Have you traveled to any of these places? Which one is your favorite and why?

[emmyhermes]

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All I have to say is…where was this jacket when I was in Europe?! What a brilliant idea. I urge all savvy travelers to donate ASAP. I’ve already pre-ordered mine! 

[emmyhermes]

Naples & Sorrento by way of the Amalfi Coast - Recap

Part three of my blogging project with tour operator Your Friend in Italy, belongs to a city that has grown close to my heart. It isn’t typically looked fondly upon by travelers, but I’ve always been one to root for the underdog. Check it out below!

Part 2: Naples

http://yourfriendinitaly.com/blog/naples-sorrento-amalfi-coast/

Now that we have discussed a couple of Italy’s most popular destinations, Venice and Rome, it’s time to go even deeper into our “Contrasts of Italy” blog series as we move further down the boot to the coastal city, Naples (or Napoli in Italian).

Through my own observation this destination tends to get mixed reviews from travelers due to its overtly gritty personality. Though Neapolitans are known for being quite eccentric in comparison to their Roman or Venetian neighbors, Naples is certainly worth a visit if not only for the fact that it is the birthplace of pizza. That’s right, understated Napoli actually harbored the onset of one of the most timeless and beloved foods in not just Italy, but in the entire world! Naples is also a very prominent gateway to some of Italy’s most beautiful sites and beaches, namely the Amalfi Coast and all of the charming villages that lie within its horizon like Sorrento, Positano and Ravello.

The first thing you will notice upon arriving in Naples is its quirky layout. Buildings are positioned in a way that is reflective of how a small child would haphazardly scatter toy blocks about the bedroom floor. Mismatched and random, you’ll find roads in Naples that lead nowhere and general stores that sit in resident backyards. In essence, the Naples city center is a prime demonstration of what can result when acting purely on impulse. While providing a compelling backdrop nevertheless, this arbitrary state of being can create confusion for travelers who are accustomed to traditional rules of the road and a more straightforward way of navigation. Because Neapolitans tend to interpret traffic laws as mere suggestion, successfully getting from Point A to Point B by car may prove difficult if afraid of getting aggressive behind the wheel. If exploring Naples by car seems intimidating, consider arriving by train (from Rome, for example) to more easily explore the historic city center, its castle, the National Archeological Museum and other main attractions by foot or by a hop on, hop off city sightseeing bus.

Mount Vesuvius, the only active volcano on the mainland of Europe, Herculaneum and Pompeii, an open air museum comprised of a city of ruins that is completely preserved by volcanic ash from over 2,000 years ago, are three of the major tourist attractions in this part of Italy. Looming over Pompeii, Vesuvius is a great hike for those who have always wanted to scale a volcano. Once you’ve made it to the top, you’re given a wonderful bird’s eye view of the Naples Bay. Keep in mind that it gets rather cool as you near the top, which could either be a frustration or a welcomed break depending on the time of year you choose to visit (Naples can reach some pretty steamy temperatures in the summer).

When touring these historic sites, remember to do as the Neapolitans do and “keep looking up.” To keep looking up is a motto that has taken root over the years due to the heightened amount of litter that can be seen throughout the cityscape in comparison to that of the rest of the country. However, in lieu of this adverse circumstance, I stand behind my initial statement that Naples is a city to not be feared, but to be explored and appreciated for its unapologetic character. Look up!

Naples is beautiful! And the potential that it has in moving forward is undeniable. If you’re looking for a city of people that stay true to themselves and do not cater to what they believe the tourists want to see, Naples should be your primary choice. If, however, you want to make it a day trip, see the sights but stay in a gentler setting, you’re in luck! As previously mentioned, Naples happens to lie about an hour away from one of the most exquisite coastlines in all of Europe – the renowned Amalfi Coast!

Because Naples is home to a U.S. Military Base, I was fortunate to have housing and transportation provided for me by way of a former university peer who was stationed in the area. If not so privileged as to have a car during your stay, do not fear. There are several transport options available, the easiest and most straightforward option being the Naples Circumvesuviana Railway, or if you’re partial to waterways, there are countless ferries that drop off at the ports along the coast.

While any town along the Amalfi Coast is going to be breathtaking at absolute minimum, Sorrento is usually the most practical choice as a base due to its convenience in location, as it is a direct route from Naples via the train. Sorrento is textbook seaside Italy – frequenting the charming cafes, sunbathing on the alluring beaches, shopping at the local boutiques, and enjoying limoncello or lemon granita while watching the sunset would be the main form of entertainment in this waterfront oasis. There are really no true tourist attractions other than the natural beauty that surrounds you from every possible angle. In fact, the Amalfi Coast in general is one of those destinations that is so naturally picturesque that you almost wish it didn’t exist simply for the fact that other people have the privilege of living there and somehow, you don’t. It’s the Grace Kelly of Italy, no, Europe. She’s beautiful and classy and does absolutely nothing to tarnish this reputation. 

I recommend a good hike down the coast in order to really grasp its unmatched marvels. My friends and I hiked the Path of the Gods, and to put it simply, it was life changing. It is peaceful and stunning, and I could have traversed the cliffs for days! In addition to Sorrento, other places of interest that could be added to your itinerary are Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, the island of Capri and the various seaside villages tucked along the cliffside of the Amalfi Coast.

In hindsight, the comparison between Naples and the Amalfi Coast are almost unbelievable. If I hadn’t witnessed it myself, I don’t think that I could have possibly comprehended such a calm and gorgeous coast to lie so close in proximity with a city with a large and frenetic urban sprawl.  Then again, it would be hard to imagine the opposite as well – such a lively and charismatic metropolitan city to be outlined by something so utterly tranquil. But that is Italy, and that is exactly why I’m writing this series.

The contrasts throughout the country are incomparable to any place that I’ve been thus far. This diversity is Italy’s charm, it is the magnetic pull that draws travelers in from all corners of the world – Enchanting Venice, Eternal Rome, Naples, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast. Next…discover Florence, the epicenter of Italian art and Renaissance culture.

[emmyhermes]

Rome, Italy - Recap

In continuation of my blogging project with tour operator Your Friend in Italy, below is part two of my series. Moving from Venice to Rome, check out my recap on everything that The Eternal City has to offer. For personalized packages and trip itineraries, contact Denise today at [email protected]!  

Part 2: ROME. http://yourfriendinitaly.com/blog/contrasts-of-italy-rome/

In Part 2 of this blog series, Contrasts of Italy, Rome is our next stop. Rome (Roma) is often referred to as The Eternal City– a designation that is by no means a hollow title. In contrast to Venice, Rome’s serene and more traditional counterpart of the northeast, Rome is a fast-paced, modern city which is centrally located within Italy. Built upon ancient ruins, Rome is essentially an outdoor museum that is lined with architectural remnants for all to see at almost every corner. Adding even more to Rome’s unique mystique is the fact that it is the only city in the world that houses an independent country within its boundaries (The Vatican City State), making it the capital of not one, but two European states. Pretty cool, right?

Because Rome is comprised of such a long and complex history, I would certainly consider a tour guide for at least a portion of your trip, especially for first-timers. Two essential walking tours would be a Vatican city and museum tour and a walking tour of Ancient Rome. With a seemingly endless list of historic buildings, museums and monuments, it’s easy to become overwhelmed. Moreover, if you’re anything like me, sites are always exponentially more impressive if given a full and clear understanding of where and how they came to be. City walking tours are always a good option for those who wish to cover a broader area in a shorter amount of time. However, some of the more popular sites like the Colosseum will provide on-site tours (self or guided) that have more in-depth information specific to their locale.

If walking the length of the expansive city seems intimidating or not exactly at the top of your wish list of things to do, then you might be excited to learn that the metro system in Rome is relatively simplistic and only includes two different metro lines (as I write this, City Planners are due to complete a third line – which has not proven to be an easy feat considering they must carefully dig underneath a city where ancient ruins exist). This is a great alternative for families with small children or for those who find themselves exploring the city in inclement weather.

To provide a starting point as you begin to research your trip to Rome, some of the must-see tourist attractions that made my personal list of favorites include the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Roman Forum, Castel Sant’Angelo, Piazza Navona, and the renowned St. Peter’s Basilica that is located within the walls of Vatican City.

While Vatican City is presumably a bucket list item for practicing Catholics throughout the world, religion aside, this historic and clergy-filled enclave is sought after by travelers world-wide. Because Catholicism is the primary belief system in Rome, I asked an acquaintance of mine in Seminary (a college of theology) if he is ever treated differently by civilians when wearing his clerical collar. His response surprised me. “It all depends on how they feel about the church at the time, whether or not they are pleased or frustrated,” he said.

Spanning just a little over 100 acres, The Vatican is a full-fledged independent city state and a cultural mecca for the arts, housing some of the most famous art in the world, particularly from the Renaissance era. No reservations are required to view where these pieces are held like inside St. Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the various Vatican Museums, but it is highly recommended to pre-book entry when you can and to try to arrive early in the day as lines tend to grow exceptionally long, especially during high season in the spring and summer months. Remember too that St. Peter’s Basilica is a practicing church that still holds mass daily. On Sundays the mass schedule runs continuously throughout the day. Because of this, it is not uncommon to see members of the clergy walking among the tourists throughout St. Peter’s Square, providing its very own unique form of culture shock. After all, nothing says “When in Rome” like accidentally being photo-bombed by a Nun! Oops!

And of course, we can’t write an article about Rome and escape discussing the absolute best part – the food! When in Italy, eat local at every given opportunity. Yet another reason tours can be beneficial to your trip is the fact that they are led by the most knowledgeable locals in the area. To avoid the tourist traps, say to them, “I want to eat where you eat,” and then make a beeline for the provided destination. During my stay, I did just that and  was steered toward a small traditional restaurant called Der Pallaro [http://www.trattoriaderpallaro.com/] that is located in the heart of Rome and offers simple yet genuine Roman cuisine.

Authentic Italian restaurants like Der Pallaro typically serve meals that are made up of five courses in the following order:  antipasti, primo, secondo and dolce, usually consisting of: soup, cured meats and cheese, handmade pasta (pasta carbonara is a specialty in Rome), meat, and dessert. All washed down with an espresso at the end of your meal. This five course meal in conjunction with infinite carafes of wine will assuredly leave you spending the remainder of the day walking at a noticeably slower pace, perhaps with a distant look in your eyes of equal parts physical discomfort and total satisfaction – but don’t worry, this is normal and is to be expected as part of the cultural Roman experience! And rest assured that you will be all too excited to jump at the opportunity of repeating the dining cycle on the days that follow.

No matter what drives you to travel, whether it is cuisine, art, architecture, religion or history, it can be found in abundance in Rome. Though Rome can often be heard being described as “overwhelming” or “chaotic,” part of its allure is this contrast of a frenetic modern city functioning around an ancient past. If planned ahead and done right, Rome, the Eternal City, will easily rank as one of the most fascinating cities of Italy, the cultural epicenter of Europe and the pivotal meeting point of old and new.

Italy is definitely a land of contrasts. We have covered Venice and Rome so far…be sure to stay tuned for part three to discover more contrasts of Italy.

[emmyhermes]

Iceland on a Time Crunch. (Also seen at SinglesTravelCompany.tumblr.com) 

In contrast to the rest of Europe, the tourism industry in Iceland is probably younger than you are. At the ripe age of just 7 years old, respectively, the tour operators of Iceland can trace the most notable increase in revenue back to the 2010 volcanic eruption of Eyjafjalljökull (try saying that three times fast - just kidding, don’t - I’m setting you up for total failure). What would usually be viewed as a catastrophe actually turned out to be quite the opposite. With no human fatalities, this volcanic eruption caused a worldwide stir.

Wait, which volcano erupted? How do you spell that?! Eyja whata? Where even is that?

The number of Google searches exploded (no pun intended), and suddenly Iceland was on the map again. I say ‘again’ because prior to the eruption, Iceland was steadily gaining popularity among financially savvy explorers after an economic crash in 2007/2008 resulted in diminishing the value of the Icelandic Króna, making the country more monetarily feasible.

In comparison to the rest of the European countries, Iceland has yet to hit its adolescent years, but its youth is what makes it so attractive. The nation didn’t even have a working road system until the 1940s when the island housed American soldiers during WWII. Prior to the war, nothing but farmland graced the province, and it was with great thanks to the United States that Iceland was able to develop its first functional commercial city center known as Reykjavik - another atypical example of how a catastrophic event somehow resulted in a positive outcome for the Icelandics.

With this recent spike in popularity comes a great interest in increasing awareness for the booming hospitality industry. Some cruise ships are now known to stop at the Reykjavik Harbor, and IcelandAir offers free self-tailored layovers while in route to Europe. These options certainly opens doors for exposure, albeit brief, to a wide range of travelers. The good news is that no matter the allotted amount of time, countless experiences await those who cross its borders.

Some items to include on your Icelandic itinerary if on a time crunch are as follows:

The Blue Lagoon: The Blue Lagoon is a natural geothermal spa that is essentially an oasis of relaxation. Located about 20 minutes south of the airport (and 50 minutes south of Reykjavik), this is one of the most popular tourist attractions. If given less than 5 hours between flights, visit the Blue Lagoon. You’ll have ample time to relax and completely rejuvenate yourself before the next leg of your trip.

The Golden Circle: I referenced The Golden Circle route in a previous post, but I should reiterate that if on a time crunch, this is a great way to attain a true glimpse into Iceland’s unique and massive landscape without straying too far from the airport. Booking a bus tour is a great option for those who have an overnight stay or one to two days to spare.

Grab a drink: Though prohibition was in effect until 1989, Iceland is now the home to some fantastic brews. If you’re able to venture into the city center, Mikkeller & Friends, Micro Bar, and Hex Hostel were three bar finds that had us longing for more. Mikkeller & Friends and Micro Bar both sit off of the main shopping street of Reykjavik called Laugavegur Street. While Hex is a bit more hidden, its atmosphere and view are worth the extra efforts.

Geothermal Public Pools: Public pools are widespread, and there are several in Reykjavik that you can try. A trip into Reykjavik is about 45 minutes to an hour in total from the airport. If you’re given at least half a day, this is another great way to fill the hours like a true Icelandic. We visited the Laugardalur Swimming Pool, which is the biggest and most popular in the region. These pools are probably a bit different than the image that you’re currently cooking up in your mind. First of all, they’re clean! Like, really clean. In fact, it is a cardinal rule to shower and bathe before you enter the pool area and there is a staff member in the locker room who ensures that you do so. Unlike your local YMCA, be warned that nudity is fully embraced in this part of the world, so please leave your shyness at the door.

Whether you’re in Iceland for a day by way of a cruise ship, a weekend by way of a layover, or for three months by way of being a gypsy, there will undoubtedly be an adventure waiting for you that fits your travel style and budget. When my boyfriend and I originally announced that we were going to Iceland for no other reason than for pleasure, we were repeatedly met with curious stares and the question of WHY. But I have a feeling that this will soon change. Ten years from now, initial surprise will be replaced with consummate awes. And because the why will be obvious, travelers will thus be showered with inherent reactions of when and for how long? This is a Catch 22 for those who are fortunate enough to have crossed it off the list, for fear that increasing popularity could tarnish its purity. I simply urge you to visit sooner rather than later - time is of the essence when it comes to experiencing and preserving one of Europe’s best kept secrets.

[emmyhermes]

Elves and Horses and other Such Things. (Also seen at SinglesTravelCompany.tumblr.com)

To travel short-term can be a fickle process - our goal is to become one with the locals, but one week (give or take) is hardly enough time to take an active part in every item on the ever-expanding agenda. We’re often left repeatedly assuring ourselves that we will definitely prioritize A, B, and C…next time. Sometimes we make it back for round two, and sometimes we don’t.

Iceland is one of the few places in the world, however, where it almost becomes a necessity to visit twice - once in the summer and once in the winter. The stark differences between the two experiences would seem as if they belonged to two completely separate countries. Eternal sunshine vs. eternal nightfall - both assist in providing the ultimate Icelandic experience, one that is lively and unique to the region. In the summer months, travelers may opt to do more activities along the lines of hiking through the mountains or riding horses that are indigenous to the region, whereas during the winter months, exploring a glacier or ensuring a front row seat for the Aurora Borealis (more commonly known as the Northern Lights) may be of a higher priority.

Because we currently reside in the home city of the renowned Kentucky Derby, it probably isn’t a surprise that we chose to partake in some good old fashioned horseback riding through a true mom and pop operation called Icelandic Riding. I actually stumbled upon the company quite by accident through a fortunate turn of the conversation via AirBnB. This family owned and operated organization doesn’t typically practice any traditional marketing, so the bulk of their business comes from word of mouth. The operation runs out of the family’s home, and they offer complimentary pick-up as well as a mouth watering spread of homemade, local cuisine post-ride. Because the Icelandic way of riding differs from western style, prior to the ride, we were each trained based on our individual need. The landscape that we traversed lied just twenty minutes outside of Reykjavik proper, but felt of supreme and total seclusion. During our ride we were briefed on our Icelandic history, everything from the country’s close U.S. ties and participation during World War II to its whimsical folklore that consists primarily of elves, Huldufolk, the hidden people.

Icelandics are probably some of the ew well-educated groups of people in the world today who will still wholeheartedly admit to believing in elves. Our guide suggested that this adamancy is a reflection of their respect for the beauty and complexity of nature and the Earth in its primal state. As an example, she told us a story about the development of her hometown that unfolds as follows…

Many years ago, when the townspeople were first paving the neighborhood’s streets, there was a huge rock lying in the center of the designated path; it was completely immovable. Rocks are believed to be the homes of the elves, and this particular rock was withstanding every attempt of its demolition to the point where it was universally decided to leave the rock as is and to build the road around it. To this day, the rock remains. Was it indeed immovable even with the aide of heavy machinery? Or, were the elvish tales an unspoken excuse to protect the land in its original state, and as a result, to leave behind a legend that will act as a precedent in conserving this protective mindset forever thereafter?

Whether the Icelandic people truly believe in elves and whether or not the elves are actually tied to the idea of nature conservation, the people’s undeniable global acceptance and appreciation for natural beauty throughout is both invigorating and contagious. And believe you me, it certainly doesn’t go unnoticed.

[emmyhermes]

Crushing Pavement, Iceland Style (Also seen at SinglesTravelCompany.tumblr.com)

The list of things to do within the Reykjavik city limits could keep travelers entertained for weeks at a time, but be sure to carve at least a few days (if not all the days) into your itinerary for mobile exploration. A personal bucket list item of mine, for example, would be to rent a car for 7-10 days minimum and drive the perimeter of the country in its entirety. Unfortunately, renting a car in Iceland is more expensive than what we are accustomed to paying in the states and our bank accounts just didn’t agree with the idea for this go-around. However, we were fortunate enough to afford one glorious day with a vehicle that turned out to be one of our favorites of the whole trip.

There are a few line items to consider as you begin the vehicle reservation process. First and foremost, keep in mind the time of year of your visit and prepare accordingly. Because the weather changes so frequently in Iceland, it is usually recommended to rent a car with 4-wheel drive capability so as to be prepared for all kinds of potential obstacles, both land and climate related. This advice is especially valuable if planning to go off-roading to explore areas that are removed from the beaten path. However, travelers who visit during the summer season could be an exception to the rule, as the weather is consistently drier and less volatile during the months of June, July and August. We kept to the main roads for the majority of our drive and found that our pint-sized Hyundai was more than sufficient for the journey. We were also lucky enough to be graced with unfaltering weather, brisk air and cloudless skies, so that helped a bit. If taking the summer route, remember that July and August are peak tourist months so reserving the vehicle well in advance is of the utmost importance to ensure availability.

The first thing folks usually want to do when finally behind the wheel is to drive “The Golden Circle.” The Golden Circle is one of two major tourist attractions in the country of Iceland (the other being The Blue Lagoon, but more on that later) and consists of a circular-ish route located in the southwest region of the island. It guides its travelers along their way to some spectacular sites - the most notable being Thingvellir National Park, breath-taking and vast; Geysir, which is ‘geyser’ in English just in case the translation isn’t clear; and Gulfoss Waterfall, literally translated to Golden Waterfall and the area’s namesake. There are countless tour operators that offer daily excursions to the circle, but if you already have the luxury of a vehicle in conjunction with even a half decent sense of direction, odds are you will navigate the route with minimal issues. The road is well-equipped with signage, and like, it’s a circle, so…it shouldn’t be too terribly confusing, right?

The Golden Circle in total takes about three hours to complete without stops. However,  after factoring in the time that it takes to stop and enjoy the views, hike, take photos, picnic, etc. the ride could take up the better part of a day. This is why it is an ideal activity to do during the summer, as you are given the beautiful and rare gift of eternal sunshine. Time is suddenly on your side when you don’t have to worry about losing the light. Because we weren’t threatened by nightfall, we decided to squeeze as much landscape into our allotted 24 hours of ultimate mobility as humanly possible by also taking a drive east to a fishing town called Vik. Vik is centrally located on Iceland’s southern coast, and while en route we hiked two waterfalls, Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss, and ended the drive at a black sanded beach where we ate our picnic lunches (consisting of pita, smoked meats, pretzels, and dried fruit).

Ultimately, no matter where you drive, every view out of your window is something that could be put on a postcard. There are absolutely no wrong turns in Iceland. Pack warm if intending to hike the falls and be mindful of the weather patterns, roaming sheep, and hitchhikers, and all will run smoothly on your day on the pavement.

[emmyhermes]

Reykjivik City Walking Tour (Also seen at SinglesTravelCompany.tumblr.com)

When I travel to different destinations one of the first items on my checklist of things to do is to take a city walking tour. City walking tours come in all shapes and sizes, but the common factor that they all share is that they help to make for a much more enjoyable stay. Think of the activity as a cram session before an exam, a crash course in everything you need to know regarding the surrounding culture. If you are traveling with a prearranged group like, for example, those that are organized through Singles Travel Company, the walking tours are usually included as part of your package within the first 24 hours of your arrival. If traveling alone, however, do not fear! Cost effective options are just an internet search away.

The most common format for these types of tours is a tip reliant format. It doesn’t cost anything up front so the idea is to pay your guide the amount that you think the tour was worth after it ends. Keep in mind that there are some conglomerates out there who have trained guides in multiple countries, but in Reykjavik, all of the free walking tours are independently owned and managed by true locals. We decided to book through CityWalk for our journey and had an extremely positive experience.

Typically history-based, walking tour guides tend to be very engaged and enthusiastic speakers so that they can explain some of the more dull or complex details in a fun and light-hearted fashion. The tours not only help to map out the lay of the land, but it also gives travelers an opportunity to ask cultural questions before striking out on their own for the remainder of the trip – Is tipping appropriate in this country? If so, how much? Is small talk reciprocated? How is crime in this area? Where is the best nightlife? What restaurants are best for traditional cuisine? The list of potential inquiries is never-ending! No matter how much research you’ve conducted on the subject, it’s always a smart idea to gain some local perspective.

One of the most notable finds that we discovered through our own tour, for example, was a little hotdog stand called Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur that is modestly located in the parking lot of a neighboring establishment near the harbor. I’ll try to put it into perspective as to how divine these hotdogs are, and yes, I just described a hotdog as divine. My travel partner (boyfriend) is un-American and hates hotdogs. Obviously I was not aware of this at the time we started to date. Anytime I approach the idea of grilling hotdogs I immediately receive backlash about how unhealthy they are as if this is brand new information that would somehow deter my craving. Throughout the planning process for our trip to Iceland there would be several losing battles held about trying one while abroad – they’re an Icelandic staple, after all! Even approaching the stand I assumed that it was a battle not worth fighting. But a shift in events took place as my boyfriend found himself swept up in the novelty of his surroundings, and before I knew it, we were practically ordering them by the case. Needless to say, we found ourselves eating at Bæjarins an embarrassingly high number of times that I do not wish to disclose (five). Granted, Bæjarins is a fairly well known eatery so the odds are that we would have probably found it eventually through word of mouth if not through the tour. But what if we hadn’t learned about it until the end of our stay? What if we only had the opportunity to eat there one measly time? I shudder just thinking about it. Once again, I reiterate - Walking tours are necessary - especially at the beginning of your trip!

A huge asset that CityWalk provided us that I had yet to experience on previous walking tours was an automated email after the walk that gave a comprehensive breakdown of activities to do in and around Reykjavik. The email was so in-depth that we would have needed at least three weeks to successfully complete everything listed. Nevertheless, it was a fantastic resource to have on hand for reference as we made our way - it even included recommendations on Icelandic music to purchase - such refreshing recommendations in comparison to standard museum lineups. If you have some spare time, check these guys out on TripAdvisor and see what other travelers are saying about them!

[emmyhermes]

Reykjavik, Iceland 6/8-6/9 (Also seen at SinglesTravelCompany.tumblr.com)

Arrival in Reykjavík To be blunt, I just want everyone to like Iceland as much as I do. Enthusiastic locals, breathtaking scenery, and eternal [summer] sunshine has truthfully made for one of the most pleasant European excursions to date. My travel partner and I spent the majority of our time in the capital city of Reykjavík (Ray-kya-vik), which is one of the two established cities in the entire country (the other city being Akureyi, which sits centrally on the north end of the island).

If you have hermit tendencies like me, you will find Reykjavík’s 120,000 residents to be refreshing. Locals are accommodating and welcoming without emanating the common stresses for travelers in terms of tourist traps and overly congested streets. Unlike many of the more popular European destinations, there are no gypsies trying to coax you into signing phony petitions, no street vendors selling handmade scarves that were manufactured in China, and there are no fervent merchants peddling knickknacks and selfie sticks at every corner. Pickpocketing…what even is that? Reykjavík is so safe that women often leave their infants sleeping in strollers outside of cafes when they go for lunch or drinks. They do this so that the children can rest peacefully and avoid being disrupted by any indoor commotion. Despite the fact that Iceland is the 15th most armed country in the world due to hunting purposes, policemen do not carry firearms because crime is so extremely rare. The police force have even gone viral on Instagram (@logrelan). Seriously, check it out if you’re interested in seeing officers feeding birds, reading to children at the local schools, or simply snapping a quick #copselfie while on break.

The size of Reykjavík in combination with the fact that the tourism industry is still relatively new makes for an easy time of traveling at any age or in any state. Transportation options are limited, which is sometimes a good thing. The majority of the population is fluent in English, so whether you are a veteran vagabond or a one-week vacationer, Iceland adheres to carefree navigation. The one exception to the rule could possibly be the similarity in some street names. Because the Icelandic language is so different from what we may be accustomed to seeing, many of the street names look frighteningly similar and can be easily confused if given only a cursory glance. One instance of accidental letter flipping could cause a Google Map catastrophe, leading you to an entirely different destination that is hours away (I may or may not know this from real life experience). During a portion of our trip, for example, we were having a hell of a time trying to find our AirBnB apartment that seemingly didn’t exist only to find out that we were on an entirely different street in the wrong part of town. The local that we had recruited for assistance laughed along with us in a jolly manner and was very kind about the misunderstanding.

Here are some tips to keep in mind as you organize the arrival of your Reykjavík stay:

If you’re a drinker, purchase your desired libations from Duty Free at the Keflavik airport. Once you arrive in Reykjavík, the price of alcohol rises to two or three times the cost due to various taxation issues. Some local indulgences that I would recommend are Einstök’s White Ale (a uniquely clouded light beer with a complex flavor of assorted spices) or Brennivín (Icelandic schnapps). Brennivín is unsweetened, so I obviously didn’t care for the stuff, but others seem to enjoy it despite it being termed “The Black Death.”  

Unless private transportation is arranged beforehand, the FlyBus is the main mode of transport from the airport to town. I recommend buying a roundtrip ticket at the time of arrival, as it is cheaper and very likely that you will be taking the FlyBus again on your return. It costs 3,500 Icelandic Króna ($23.50 in U.S. dollars) per roundtrip per person. The FlyBus drops off at various hotels within Reykjavík proper as well as the BSI bus station where travelers can catch a city bus into town. If opting for an apartment stay and relying on a city bus, keep in mind that they do not give change. It is 400 Króna (about $2.50) per person.

When en route to Reykjavík, the land is baron. It almost looks like you might be driving on the moon with its immense stretches of moss and ash covered rock at every angle. But don’t let this fool you! While beautiful in its own right, the differentiation of the Icelandic landscape is one of the primary reasons travelers fall in love with the island. Sit back and watch as the scenery slowly transforms during the 45 minute drive, ultimately resulting in a combination of a secluded ski town and a fisherman’s village – the largest and most populated city of Iceland, Reykjavík.

[emmyhermes]

Venice, Italy - Recap

I was recently asked by tour operator Your Friend in Italy to write a guest blog post on my backpacking experience through the boot last fall. Jumping at the opportunity to oblige, today my first piece of a four-part series appeared on their website. Your Friend in Italy is a one-stop shop with experts who specialize in all things Italy - from destination wedding locales to hiking trails along the Amalfi Coast and everything in between. Check out my featured piece through the link below. 

Part 1: VENICE. http://yourfriendinitaly.com/blog/contrasts-of-italy-venice/

Italy is a land of contrasts, offering visitors enough diverse land and cityscapes to fulfill all five senses.  A trip to Italy isn’t truly complete without at least a couple of days set aside for the unique and beautiful Venice (Venezia). Venice, often referred to as La Serenissima (the most serene), is composed of a quaint group of islands that are nestled in the northeast corner of Italy’s boot.  Charming in every sense of the word, roaming Venice’s streets is not unlike taking a stroll through a picture book, and it is perhaps one of the most comparable experiences that we will ever have to living inside an actual fairy tale.

Venice is made up of over 100 small islands that are connected by bridges and canals so it is almost impossible to get completely lost, with the exception of the potential to get lost amongst the small alleyways. But that is exactly what makes Venice the perfect place to throw your map away and allow yourself to slow down and soak up the atmosphere. This is the part of your journey where you can let your hair down and relax, feeling completely safe as you meander aimlessly through its picturesque alleys and cobblestoned streets. All the while knowing that you will eventually stumble upon your desired location (or if not your desired location, then something else that is equally remarkable).

When thinking Venice – think slow travel. Though popular with many tourists, its lack of conventional public transport and relatively small local population can provide the makings for a more relaxed way of traveling. To have a better chance of this, consider visiting Venice outside of high season. Because the city relies heavily on water transportation, Venice is less of an ideal destination for travelers who are irreversibly dependent on fast paced fixed schedules and timely events. The water taxi system is a novel experience for most, but “speedy” it is definitely not. For additional ease of travel, remember to pack light! Any veteran explorer would agree that while aesthetically pleasing, narrow sidewalks, uneven pavement, bridges and choppy waters leave little admittance for excessive luggage. Simply equip yourself with a sturdy pair of walking shoes, a camera and an open mind and breathe easy as the experience unfolds.

Once you’ve mastered the waterways and alleyways, take some time to see the sites, most of which are free to the public like, for example, visiting the famous St. Mark’s Basilica as you pass through Piazza San Marco, marveling at the unmatched architecture that is the Santa Maria della Salute, and crossing the Rialto Bridge, Venice’s main pedestrian crossing between the two banks of the world renowned Grand Canal. Also consider hiring a Tour Guide to truly unravel the mystery of Venice and it’s myriad of small streets for you.

However, the true Venetian experience isn’t complete without integrating oneself with the local colors and characters of the city at every possible opportunity. This includes diverting onto some of the pedestrian side streets where one can observe residents hanging out at neighborhood bars or purchasing produce from the local vendors. While here, don’t be afraid to dive right in to the conversation! Because Venice commerce depends mainly on its tourism revenue, most locals are good humored and helpful toward their visitors. Just like with any city, learn a few key phrases in the home language and be respectful of their customs and you are sure to receive equal consideration in return.

One of the most common activities in Venice that I am often asked about is the gondola ride and whether or not it is worth the cost (on average, about 80 Euro per person). Is it corny or is it unique? Is it boring or is it memorable? In short, my answer is that gondola rides are one hundred percent worth the price. Personally, I am a strong believer in combining both unique, local experiences with some of the touristy attractions when visiting a new place. However, I would not describe a ride on these iconic flat-bottomed boats as solely touristy by any stretch of the imagination. What was once relied on as the primary mode of transportation in the region, a ride on a traditional gondola is an unparalleled and unique experience – something that cannot be replicated despite the attempts made by some of the world’s kitschier locales.

Firstly, a true gondolier’s skill set is something to be admired, as it takes extraordinary balance, training and technique to facilitate a smooth excursion. From my own experience, the gondoliers also do very well in adapting to the mood of their audience. If looking for a romantic cruise with a significant other, for example, they will typically steer in silence to avoid disturbance or perhaps whistle a soothing tune if deemed appropriate. Because I was with another twenty-something solo traveler, our gondolier chatted with us, answered questions and even sang some western top 40 hits for our amusement (side note: Meghan Trainor’s All About That Bass takes on an entirely different meaning when heard through a thick Italian accent).

When given the opportunity to sail through this floating city on a gondola, you’re able to absorb the city’s true essence from a different perspective. The unique recessed perspective of the surrounding buildings along with the camaraderie among the gondoliers in action serve to provide all of the elements of pure immersion, and in turn, enchantment. To add to the magic, catch a gondola ride after dark to see the floating city dressed in lights and colorful night sky.

Venice is the type of place that needs to be experienced first-hand by all, but it is sometimes pushed to the far side of travelers’ minds because they are commonly convinced that its romantic disposition would only be appreciated by couples in relationships. However, this could not be farther from the truth. While it would certainly be fitting to travel with a partner, have solace in the fact that going with close friends or even solo does not in any way lessen the undeniable beauty that Venice has to offer. Set foot on these historic grounds in any fashion that you choose and instantly allow yourself to be absorbed in the extraordinarily charming City of Bridges.

If you have extra time, don’t forget to explore some of the other islands surrounding Venice like Murano, Burano, Torcello, the Giudecca and Lido all offering other contrasts of Italy. Stay tuned for part two to discover more contrasts of Italy.

[emmyhermes]

Rosemary Beach, Florida 3/28 - 4/4

When I touched down in the states back in December, Europe seemed but a distant memory to me as I was instantly distracted by everything that came along with the Christmas and New Year holidays. Family consumed my attention from every direction, which left little time for nostalgia. However, my gypsy life is now beginning to stabilize, and PESD (Post European Stress Disorder) has officially set in. This is why a trip to Rosemary Beach could not have come at a more ideal time. 

In late March, my family and I trekked from our allotted corners of the world and met in the panhandle of Florida in a little town called Rosemary Beach. My cousin chose this idyllic setting to exchange her vows, and the results were breathtaking. Never have I ever experienced such a textbook wedding - a primary component to its beauty undoubtedly being the surrounding European architectural. Pictured above, for example, is the iconic Pearl Hotel. While unique in structure for this part of the world, the establishment would fit in flawlessly with our European counterparts. The hotel is the focal point on a cobble-stoned main street that is lined with boutiques and cafes with patio and outdoor seating. Vehicles are scarce in this tiny retreat, as visitors prefer bikes for their main form of transportation (hmm...sounds familiar. Amsterdam, anyone?). Not unlike walking through a modern day storybook, you can’t help but to feel completely safe and secure. And really, what else could you ask for from a true vacation?

For beach goers on a budget who can’t seem to make it across the pond, fear not. Rosemary Beach brings a piece of Europe to your own backyard - albeit shinier and maybe just a wee less historical.

[emmyhermes]

Louisville, KY, United States

I stopped blogging when I returned to the U.S. in December - the result of a come down from my European high. With such unique and breathtaking sights abroad, it didn't seem fruitful to write about the U.S. where my friends and family are all too accustomed. But the truth is, I haven't stopped traveling upon returning to the states, and guess what! The states are B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L and deserve a little credit. Since December, I've continued the infamous gypsy lifestyle and have graced the grounds of Washington, DC, New York, Louisiana, Texas, Tennessee, and Kentucky - all scenic in their own right.

I've been to all of the aforementioned places before, but I admittedly never took the time to appreciate what they have to offer. I've been spending a lot of time in Louisville, Kentucky recently and it is slowly gaining a soft spot in my heart. The majority of my time in bluegrass country has been snow-covered so I've enjoyed outdoor activities that I've never previously partaken in like snowboarding and sledding. And kids, when I say "sledding" I do not mean riding a greased pizza pan down a sort-of hill in your fenced-in backyard (that's Tennessee sledding). In Louisville, sledding is a full fledged sport that requires ski gear, intense hiking and probably some peppermint schnapps (if you know what you're doing). The featured photo was taken at the beginning of March after a winter storm left the area with almost a foot of snow on the ground. That night, my boyfriend and I embarked on a journey with his friends to find the perfect sledding hill that we would eventually find on a golf course in Seneca Park. We arrived at dusk and as the sun set, its rays hit the snow in such a way that provided some of the most beautiful lighting I've ever seen. It looked like a scene from a movie. I did not realize until this moment that lighting like this actually existed in the real world, rather, to me it was always a clever Hollywood production trick. This was a significant moment when I realized I could see myself in this place for the foreseeable future. Sometimes you don't know what you're missing until you do.

So, as I finalize travel plans for 2015, my goal is to retroactively regale you with my experiences that have happened thus far, both abroad and in the states - trips that I've taken prior to my solo journey and those that have taken place after the fact. 

Stay tuned!

[emmyhermes]

12/7-12/11 Amsterdam, Netherlands My final day in Europe for the year of 2014 has arrived, and I just word vomited to my travel buddy about how much I don't want to go back to the states. I can't go, I just got here, I should have done this longer, why am I going back so early?

As frantic as I am, I'm actually really relieved that I feel this way. Since Thanksgiving, it has been difficult to keep my mind off of reuniting with loved ones and friends and to really focus on where I have the privilege of being in the here and now. How I found myself feeling on Thanksgiving definitely reinstates the fact that I made the right decision to be home for the holidays, but it still doesn't make coming home any easier. In fact, I'm really nervous - like, really nervous. I'm more nervous about returning to the states than I was to leave them - it's called reverse culture shock. I'm scared about how quickly I'll get sucked back into the American culture, how I'll automatically put work before travel unless I find a way to combine them, and how I could potentially forget everything that I've learned overseas - the good and the bad, the times when I felt elated and the times when I felt lost. It's so easy to live in a bubble and so difficult to break free. I reverted quickly when I returned from Spain five years ago, so I've been taking some preemptive measures by spending a lot of time lately determining if I can squeeze one more trip out of the new year before returning to "normal" life - whatever that means.

At the same time, I am truly excited to regain stability. For me, stability is what the states represent. And it's funny because six months ago I would have said the opposite. I haven't been "stable" since I started living in two houses at 9 years old. I prided myself for years on thriving on change. But everything is relative, and now I understand what it really means to be on the go.

I think perpetual travel is a wonderful experience that everyone with the means to do should try. But there is a caveat to it all. We learn so much on the road and our minds are opened in ways that were before inconceivable. But, now what? I think that if you are traveling for a long period of time, forever on the go, the things you learn are almost a waste. We need time to sit still, process, and then take action. We can't do this if we don't have a place to call home. I say this because there have been so many moments when I found myself saying, "I'm going to start doing this...or...this particular experience has inspired me to do that..." But these inspirational thoughts are then immediately followed with, "but I have to wait two more months...or...but I can't until I find a place to live...to do this, I would need this, which I don't have, because all I have is a backpack." 

So I guess that is my goal for when I return to the states - to regain stability and maintain flexibility. I've seen ten countries, made countless new friends, reunited with past acquaintances, and overcome thousands of obstacles. And now I find that I want a home.

I also have ideas that were sparked by way of this trip on how to work for myself and do something that I truly enjoy for a living. So implementation of this idea is a goal as well. I also want to not forget all that I've learned and to find a way to incorporate my European experience in everyday life going forward.

But most importantly, my ultimate goal is to do this again. And maybe another time after that.

So until next time, Bon Voyage, Europe.

[emmyhermes]

Incredibly humbled to have the opportunity of returning to the quirky little town of Alicante that instigated my travel addiction five years ago. Last night I met with my former host family and spoke more Spanish in two hours than I have in years. I was impressed with how much I understood and equally mortified at how little I could actually speak. This experience is one for the books and a perfect addition to my trip as it quickly (and sadly) draws to a close. (at Alicante, Spain)

[emmyhermes]

Madrid, Spain 12/1-12/2

I've been asked a lot about how it works to meet people while constantly on the go. How do you know if a person is trustworthy? How do you make friends? Do you meet friends in every destination? Is it easy? 

The closest way that I can accurately depict relationships on the road is comparing it to an endless series of first dates with developing commitment issues. There is a general cyclical pattern that doesn't stray too far from the dating scene for any person who has experienced being single in their 20s. The cycle typically develops as follows: the meet cute, the chemistry analysis and initial resistance (if applicable), the honeymoon period, and the divorce.  A meet cute, as so eloquently described in The Holiday, is the point of the story when a man and woman meet over a chance encounter on a train, in line at the supermarket, or through any daily mundane activity where the universe has so effortlessly brought them together. In the travel world, the meet cute usually happens on a group tour or within hostel walls. My two outstanding relationships, for example, were established in such ways - the first being in Edinburgh. I was on my standard Sandeman walking tour when a girl came up to me and said, “Wow, what a small camera you have…” It was love at first sight. Next thing I know, we’re going to Budapest together to shack up in an AirBnb (I know what you’re thinking, but relationships move at a quicker pace on the road!). My second relationship developed at the breakfast table at my hostel in Lisbon. It was my first morning and I was unsure about what I would do that day aside from my walking tour with Sandeman when I struck up a conversation with some of the other travelers around the table. They then joined me for the tour (should I start requesting commission?) and in a matter of a few days we picked up where we left off in beautiful Madrid. Once these connections as described above are established through hostel chat (Hostel chat consists of a series of questions: Where are you from? Where have you been? Where are you going next? How long are you traveling?), the next natural progression is to internally analyze how far you see this relationship going. And, after traveling for a longer period of time, you begin to know exactly what you want out of a potential partner and tend to look for those qualities right off the bat. Much like my men, for example, I look for a sense of humor, flexibility, and a hearty liver. When you find a fellow person(s) that meets your needs and makes you feel whole, the normal tendency is to latch on to them and do everything together! In boy/girl world, we call this the honeymoon period. I don’t need to explain the honeymoon concept further, as I think we all get it. But it isn’t so easy in travel world. People aren’t so keen to jump into the honeymoon period as wholeheartedly because we all, deep down, have major commitment issues. They’re just going to leave me anyway!!

And, in fact, this is true.

Divorce, the separation of ways, is simply inevitable in travel world. We are a fickle breed with restless minds who become bored with monogamy quickly. Fortunately, and unlike in the real world, we are all pretty like-minded individuals. This means that unrequited love isn’t as much of a trend and both parties stray equally from the other. It softens the blow, but still doesn’t make parting ways any easier. Social media provides a superficial, cyber solution. But the fact of the matter is, realistically, we’ll probably never cross paths again. And maybe that’s a good thing. Holding on to remnants of a brief affair is hardly healthy (fun fact, I know this from experience).

But there you have it. You ask me, how is it making friends on the road? I say, you tell me.

[emmyhermes]

Lisbon, Portugal 11/29-11/30

Well, it has finally happened. I've heard the horror stories from fellow travelers, but I never thought that I would be over here long enough for it to actually happen to *achoo* me. Yes, my time in Lisbon has been drastically altered due to a pretty wicked head cold.

On the morning of my second day, I refrained from activities with my friends due to what I thought was an unwarrantedly strong hangover. After a couple of hours it began to feel like nails were lodged in my throat and I broke out into a feverish sweat. My hangover theory was quickly squashed. I spent the majority of the day in my bed that is comprised of an uncomfortably thin mattress that no matter which way you turn, seems to always have an unruly spring with a mind of its own that annoyingly jabs you directly in the middle of your back. Hostel beds are not meant for relaxation, but for only a maximum of six hours lying time per night.

Not only did I have to endure all of the standard obstacles one is given when dealing with a head cold, but I had to do so under intense public scrutiny. I found myself in the midst of a constant air of judgement from other travelers who were coming in and out throughout the day. This may or may not have actually been the case, but it is how I interpreted their inquisitive glances toward my direction. "She came all the way to Lisbon...why is she being so lazy?" "Wow, that hungover huh? Maybe you should better prioritize your holiday activities." And then of course, the cleaning crew came in at around noon and finds me still knocked out cold in my bed. All that could be going through their mind is, "This girl."

To be fair, I actually attempted to salvage a bit of the day by walking to the Alfama district of Lisbon, which is described by locals as a paused moment of time - small streets filled with less tourists and more local conversation. One of its main attractions is its views over Lisbon. But you can't have views without hills, right? I forgot to connect those dots, so my afternoon turned into me walking to Alfama, becoming too fatigued to continue, purchasing a banana, and then returning to my hostel to sleep more. By the next day I still hadn't fully regained my strength, so I decided to take it easy and posted up near the water to read a book. A friend from the hostel eventually stumbled upon me, so we hung out for most of the day, but it has only left me twice as worse this morning. It's a shame too, as today is a travel day. If my writing of this post serves as any inclination as to how today is going to go (typing a sentence and a half at a time before approximately three apocalyptic sneezes and heavily blurred vision), then I have my work cut out for me.

[emmyhermes]

Lisbon, Portugal 11/28-11/29

Lisbon has been a pleasant surprise all the way around. It is a quirky city full of generous people, intricately tiled streets and breathtaking views. Many of the buildings are also clad in tile with pattern designs that you typically may have only seen indoors in a kitchen or a washroom. Such a neat juxtaposition to see them used as outer building decor! Before I delve into my post, I asked about the tile usage because I was curious and was told that they were used to reflect sunlight so as to keep the inside of houses cooler in the summer months ("Plus, we don't have to repaint...just wash the buildings down with a hose!"). Clever, Lisbon.

Because it was storming when I landed, I decided to cab to my hostel rather than deal with my lack of direction in the pouring rain. I'd be sure to get pneumonia, as my 15 minute walk from the train station would turn into an hour (I just know this about myself). On the other hand, cabs are always risky because of the completely rational fear of getting ripped off. So I approached the situation with what in hindsight was too much caution. My cab driver - and first taste ever of Portuguese charm - was one of the most sincerely nice and accommodating people I have ever met. It gave me such a warm feeling internally about Lisbon, and it was absolutely warranted. The hostel that I chose is one where I've instantly clicked with the other travelers, so that has been a huge bonus as well. In fact, I'm meeting back up with a group of them in Madrid within the next couple of days.

But back to Lisbon...funny, funny Lisbon. 

Lisbon is one of the only places that I've been where their local cuisine is comprised of something that can't actually be found anywhere in Portugal. Bacalhau, or codfish, is the main dish in Portugal but because the water is so warm, they actually have to travel to Norway or Sweden to catch the damn things. In addition, it takes them about two weeks to properly prepare the fish. Silly, Lisbon.

Lisbon is also one of the only places that I've traveled to where the historic castle (Sao Jorge, pictured above) actually holds very little history. The majority of the estate had been demolished in centuries past, and it wasn't until relatively recently that it began to be rebuilt - you can tell because they have used bricks during its restoration. What medieval period castle do you know of used bricks? Bricks weren't a thing! Silly, Lisbon. Because of this, I don't think that I would mark this castle as a must-see.

A true must-see while here though is definitely the Church of Sao Roque. From the outside, it is one of the most boring buildings I have ever seen - especially in comparison to some of the grand churches one can see throughout Europe. However, the inside of the church holds the most expensive chapel in the world - 3.3 trillion euro of pure gold. It costs nothing to go inside and is truly remarkable and worth a look. However, I couldn't help but think to myself, that if a church had trillions of dollars of pure gold...and they're spending it on a...chapel...would it be possible, perhaps...that their priorities weren't quite in order? Just some food for thought. Two more days to go, as I set off to some of the smaller villages that surround the Lisbon city centre. I'm interested to see if they are comprised of some of the same quirks.