Facing the Horde: A Guide to Surviving the Zombie

[facingthehorde]

If you happen to be near the Mansfield Twp NJ Shop Rite, that store is selling ETON Red Cross Blackout Buddy two-packs and FRX1 crank-charge AM/FM/WB radios for $9.99.

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I apologize for the incredibly long hiatus.  Real life got ahold of me, and I lost track of time.  But, I am working on some new stuff, so, bear with me while I get it finished up.

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I received one ask yesterday, on facing survival while on medication.

I answered it privately, but didn't mean to, so here's the gist of what I had said:

If the storm strike while you need to take medicine, if at all possible, keep extra on hand.  If that's not practical, then know exactly how much you take of what medicines, and be prepared to loot a pharmacy.  Never, never self diagnose and medicate, as

A) You probably aren't a doctor, and you diagnosis can and probably will be wrong.

B) You are also probably not a pharmacist, and don't know what medicines will react together.  Many medicines for completely unrelated problems, and even some chemicals in foods or alcohol, can react negatively together.  (Like the naringin in grapefruits and many, many medicines.

If at all possible, carry a book on medicinal plants and/or homeopathy with you, as, without a doctor and a regular supply of medicine, these may be your best bet to combat health issues.

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Recommended Reading

As useful as a single blog or website is to get information from, there will come a time when the power will go out, be it for a couple hours during a large storm, or for days, weeks, or even permanently, due to disaster.  In that case, it’s important to have a physical, non-powered resource you can turn to.  The following are books that I’ve found to be good resources for all types of survival.  Be careful when choosing a wilderness survival book.  Many of them are simply based on the Air Force Survival Training Manual, and some are even just direct copies.

Survive!: Essential Skills and Tactics to Get You Out of Anywhere- Les Stroud

Written by the Creator and Host of series Survivorman, this book is one of my favorite resources, partly because of its being related to the show.  Almost every piece of advice in the book can be found demonstrated by the author himself in at least one episode of the show.  At less than $15 a copy at the time of this writing, it’s an affordable resource, and one you would be remiss to ignore.

98.6 Degrees: The Art of Keeping Your Ass Alive - Cody Lundin

This book has some wonderful, creative ideas for how to repurpose everyday stuff into survival equipment.  Not only that, but this book has a good sense of humor about pointing out some common, stupid actions taken in survival situations.

The Complete Wilderness Training Book - Hugh McManners

The first survival guide I ever owned, and one I still turn to regularly.  Written primarily with younger readers in mind, this book is nevertheless a fantastic resource, with full color illustrations and photographs, equipment suggestions, emergency wilderness medical advice, and chapters on edible plants and insects, and where you can find them.

The Zombie Survival Guide: Complete Protection from the Living Dead - Max Brooks

What kind of zombie survival blog would I be if I didn’t include this book?  Written for laugh, and found in the humor section of your bookstore, This book is still great to keep around.  You won’t find much in the way of practical wilderness survival advice, but it does contain some practical home survival advice, applicable in any disaster.  Not only that, but if the dead do end up walking among us, do you want to be left out in the cold, wondering what the best gun to take out a shambler is?

Urban Survival Unfortunately, having spent my entirely living in a rural area, I’ve never had a practical reason to purchase an urban survival guide.  If you’ve read any, and would like to recommend one to me, please, do so.

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Firearm Breakdown

As I stated in my last article, firearms vary widely from model to model.  Here, I'll list a few distinct makes and models, and the benefits and drawbacks of each.

Bolt Action Rifles

Bolt action rifles tend to be heavy and therefore difficult to carry long distances, but this is offset by their power.  The slow rate of fire can be a hidden blessing, forcing one to make each shot count, so as not to waste ammo.  Current hunting rifles tend to be bolt action, and most are chambered in the powerful .308 Winchester round, the civilian counterpart of the 7.62x51mm NATO round.

Mosin-Nagant:  Often associated with Soviet troops during the Second World War, the Mosin-Nagant was first put to use in 1891, and remain in service in several countries today.  Unless an American user has a stockpile of the proper ammunition for this gun, it's unlikely to be of great use, due to the unlikelihood of lootable firearms dealers carrying it.  Like many military rifles of its day, it can be loaded quickly with the use of a stripper-clip.

Lee-Enfield No. 4:  Much like the Nagant in many respects, the Lee-Enfield No. 4 rifles are heavy, accurate, and powerful.  Also like the Nagant, it is capable of being loaded with stripper clips.  Again, due to the scarcity of ammo (.303 British), it is unlikely to make for a good long-term weapon outside of the British Isles.

Remington Model 770:  Cheap, accurate, reliable, and lightweight, the Remington 770 is widely available, and comes chambered in several standard calibers, ranging from .243 to .308.  Designed primarily for hunters on a budget, it makes a good choice for a low priced weapon, but can't take nearly the punishment of it's tougher military-grade cousins.

Semi-Automatic Rifles

Semi-automatic rifles have the benefit of being able to fire much faster than bolt-action, however, this comes at a price.  It is much easier to waste ammunition when each pull of the trigger can fire a shot without thought.  Therefore, use of a semi-auto requires discipline.

M1 Garand:  The standard infantry rifle of the United States military from the onset of WWII right up to the early days of the Vietnam Conflict, the Garand is both an Icon, and a formidable weapon against any aggressor, living or undead.  Chambered in either .30-06 (7.62x63mm) or .308 (7.62x51mm NATO).  Theen bloc clip makes reloading much faster, but care must be taken upon firing the last shot to note where the clip ejects to, lest it be lost.  A distinct "ping" will alert you to this,  M1 Garands are easily obtainable through the US Civilian Marksmanship Program, however, they do tend to be on the pricey side.

M1 Carbine:  Despite the similar nomenclature, the M1 Carbine has only one thing in common with the M1 Garand: a butt-plate screw.  That being said, the M1 Carbine is a light, effective weapon. The ammo isn't as plentiful as .30-06 or .308, but it isn't as rare as international rounds, either.  Though available with either a folding (paratrooper) style stock or a solid one, make sure to check your state laws.  Some specifically outlaw this gun by name.

AR-15:  The AR-15, along with it's military counterparts, the M16 rifle and M4 Carbine, is what typically comes to mind when one thinks of a "modern" assault rifle.  Available in a wide array of calibers, ranging from the diminutive 5.56x45mm to the massive .50 BMG, this gun is lightweight, and highly customizable.  All civilian models are semi-automatic by design, but various military variants are available with a 3-round burst fire, or fully automatic.

Winchester Model 100:  The Winchester model 100 is a typical semi-automatic hunting rifle, available chambered in .308, .243, and .284 Winchester rounds.  At 7.5 pounds, it's relatively light, and is reasonably affordable.

Semi-Automatic Pistols

Semi automatic pistols are a lightweight alternative to bulky rifles.  Fast-firing and reasonably accurate, semi-auto pistols are an essential part of any zombie-hunter's arsenal.

Glock Pistol:  The Glock pistol, chambered in 9x19mm, is popular, for some inexplicable reason.  The weak rounds have been documented on several occasions as striking targets several times without any noticeable effect.  Though light and easy to carry, I advise using larger caliber pistol, just for the stopping power, if nothing else.

SIG Sauer P226:  In the aftermath of an F.B.I. shootout in Miami in 1986, an investigation was lauched into the deaths of several agents, and those deaths were partially blamed on the lack of stopping power of the 9mm rounds they were carrying.  (See above.)  As such, a new round was developed specifically for law enforcement.  The resulting round, the 10mm, proved a bit too unwieldy, and so, the shorter, more reliable .40 S&W was born.  The SIG Sauer P226 is one .40 S&W Model, proving to be quite effective at stopping an assailant in his or her tracks.

Colt M1911:  Developed over 100 years ago, the Colt M1911 hasn't changed at all since then.  Chambered in the powerful .45 ACP, this pistol is small enough to carry easily, and more modernized models are fairly light.  The heft of earlier models allow it to be used as a melee weapon quite effectively.

Desert Eagle:  The Israel Military Industries Desert Eagle is a famous gun in popular culture, due primarily to the assumed damaging capabilities of the .50 AE round.  Although it doesn't have quite the results one sees in movies, it's still a very powerful pistol, and is quite a capable weapon, although the size does make is a little difficult to use.

Revolvers

You may be thinking that revolvers today have no place outside Wild West movies, but you couldn't be more wrong.   With fewer moving parts, a revolver pistol is much less likely to jam or misfire.  The downside, however, is that they take much longer to load, and generally have a much lower ammo capacity.

Colt Single Action Army:  The Colt SAA, better know as the Peacemaker, is probably the most famous revolver in the world.  Most often chambered in .45 Long Colt, with half-moon clips, these can also fire .45 ACP.  In addition, the Colt Peacemaker gives a user a unique psychological edge, as many people find large revolvers more intimidating than their auto-loading counterparts.

Webley Mk IV:  Favored by adventuring archaeologists and immortal time travelers alike, the Webley Mk IV has the unique distinction of being one of the most recognizable unknown firearms in existence.  Available in .455 Webley and .38 S&W (not to be confused with .38 Special), the ammo for these guns is quite scarce, so, think carefully before you choose this gun because your favorite action hero uses it.

Nagant M1895:  Unique amongst revolvers in that the cylinder slides forward to seal with the barrel, all the force from the cartridge propels the bullet forward, with none lost through the gap as in other revolvers.  Chambered in 7.62x38mmR, it can also fire standard .32 S&W rounds, though this isn't generally advised.

Flintlocks and Muzzle Loaders

Except in home defense when nothing else is available, a flintlock will just get you killed.  There are no bonus points for style here.

Firearms of Note

Taurus Judge:  The Judge revolver stands apart from others in that, in addition to being chambered for .45 LC, it will also fire .410 shotgun shells, giving users an extra choice for their firearm.

.22 LR Firearms:  Often discounted because of its size, the lack of penetration of .22 rounds can be a surprise gift.  Without the ability to punch an exit hole in a skull, .22 will ricochet around inside, doing far more damage than, say, a 9mm round.  Coupled with the fact that every store that sell ammunition sells .22, these are a surprisingly good choice for a survival firearm.

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Weapons for Defense

Be it a horde of the undead, or a group of looting hooligans, when disaster hits, it may be necessary to defend your home.

As most intelligent people will find the simple threat of deadly force enough of a deterrent, I'll focus mostly on effective weaponry against the undead.

At a Distance

Keeping your distance from an assailant, be they living or dead, is important.  These weapons will allow you to strike from far away, often without your target even realizing you're there.

The Bow:  Silent and effective, a bow can be useful for taking out individuals without alerting the rest of the group.  Ammunition is reusable, and, with a little knowhow and some basic equipment, even craftable on the fly.  On the downside, a bow can take a fair amount of training to use effectively, and bow for longer range can take a considerable amount of strength to draw.

The Crossbow:  Darryl Dixon fans rejoice; the crossbow is an excellent tool for taking on the undead.  As silent as a bow, and as easy to use as a rifle, the crossbow is a mix of some of the best of both worlds.  Although not as accurate at long ranges as a rifle, at medium to close range, it's lethal.  And, due to the nature of the string, recoil is negligible.  Available is sizes from small hand drawn models to large winch operated ones, crossbows are suitable for all shapes and sizes of person.  Their biggest drawback is speed.  If you need to fire off several shots quickly, a crossbow is only going to serve to get you killed.

The Pistol:  Light and compact, a pistol is the perfect traveling firearm. Larger calibers have a lot of stopping power.  On the downside, large caliber pistols are heavy, and smaller calibers lack the stopping power of their larger counterparts.

The Rifle:  Rifles are the epitome of a long ranged weapon.  Ranging from short light, and small caliber to long, heavy, and armor piercing, rifles come in all shapes and sizes.  The benefits and drawbacks vary widely from model to model, so a longer, in depth post about several specific ones will be made later.

Up Close and Personal

As ideal as it is to keep your distance from aggressors, it sometimes becomes necessary to bring the fight up close.  In this case, it's a good idea to be the person bringing a knife to a fistfight, or a gun to a knife fight.  The following close-range weapons will give you an edge in an undead mosh pit.  The main downside to all of these is roughly the same.  They force you to get up close to the danger.

Knives:  Knives, given the opportunity, can allow for a quick, clean kill.  With a strong downward thrust, a knife can be inserted into the brain of an undead assailant, destroying it.

Long Blades:  Long bladed weapons, such as machetes and swords, will allow you to hack and slash at your opponent, but try to stick to one-handed models.  Two-handed blades, such as greatswords and katana prove too awkward to use without extensive training.  Stick to broadswords, machetes, and, if you must go with a traditional Japanese weapon, the wakizashi.

Polearms and Spears:  Bladed weapons such as spears and polearms, including the guisarme and naginata, allow one to stab and slash from well out of arms reach. However, these can prove difficult to use effectively without practice.

The Shotgun:  Perhaps second only to the chainsaw, the shotgun is an iconic part of zombie media.  Unlike the chainsaw, the shotgun actually has a place in the zombie fighter's arsenal.  And, I know what you're thinking.   "Surely the shotgun belongs in the long range section, right?  I mean, it is a gun."  Well, yes and no.  A shotgun loaded with slugs can make an effective medium-range weapon, but its real strength is up close with buckshot.  The spread of shot provides more stopping power than the same amount of lead from a pistol or rifle.  And, while it certainly won't throw a body back like the movies, it certainly can knock it on it's ass.  The downside, obviously, is that a typical hunter's shotgun is long and heavy, and requires ammunition that can't be made on the move without supplies and equipment.

Non-recommended Weapons

Some weapons have a reputation as zombie slayers due to movies.  Unfortunately, many of these are more likely to get you killed than to help you survive.

The Chainsaw:  The chainsaw has a reputation as a zombie mangler, but this couldn't be further from the truth.  Not only would the chain quickly be gummed up with flesh and get stuck, but it's loud, and it requires some kind of fuel to run, be it a wall plug, a battery, or gasoline, and those will all eventually run out, leaving you in the middle of a very aware horde, holding 20 pounds of useless crap.

The Flamethrower:  It requires fuel, and you're just as likely to set yourself on fire as you are a horde.  In addition, they weigh upwards of 70 pounds, negating their usefulness as a mobile weapon.

The Molotov Cocktail:  A glass container filled with flammable liquid and fitted with a rudimentary "fuse," the Molotov cocktail is good for little more than a demolition tool, useful for setting ablaze a building to eliminate large numbers of opponents at a time.

Be smart when assembling your arsenal, and make sure to follow the laws that apply wherever you live.

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What is the best kind of building to take refuge in? Like, a certain kind of house or a school or a church, or does it not particularly matter?

In a zombie apocalypse situation, the best structure to convert into a fortress is one that's already most of the way there:  a maximum security prison.

Prisons are designed not only to keep prisoners in, but to keep unwanted visitors out.  Most have gardens in which food can be grown almost indefinitely, and the walls and fences will prove more than adequate to keep even the largest hordes out.  Coupled with the ample living space and well placed snipers posts in the guard towers, a prison is an ideal stronghold against the horde.

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Bugging Out

As much as we love our homes, when disaster hits, you may need to get out, and get out fast.  Because of this, it's a good idea to keep a pack of equipment, called a bug-out bag, right by your door.  A bug-out bag should contain enough supplies and equipment to sustain you for at least 72 hours.

Bug-out Bag Recommended Contents

Food and Water:  Light, freeze dried meals are much easier to store and carry, but may require extra water be carried to rehydrate it.  However, if one is already carrying the recommended 1 gallon of water per day, it shouldn't be an issue.

Supplies for your pet:  If you intend to have a pet bug-out with you, make sure you have food and water for them, as well as any medicine they may need.  Larger pets, such as dogs, can have an individual bag made up for them, allowing them to carry their own gear.

First Aid Kit:  A first aid kit is a must have for your pack.  I recommend filling your own, as opposed to purchasing one, as you can customize the contents to suit your needs.

Medical Supplies:  In addition to a basic first aid kit, you must carry any major medical supplies.  Ex: Epinephrine and an antihistamine if you have severe allergies, or blood meters and insulin and sugar supplements if you're a diabetic.

Fire Starter:  The ability to start a fire is absolutely essential.  Not only does having a fire allow a survivalist to cook food and boil water, but it also provides a psychological factor.  A fire provides warmth light, and comfort.  Having a fire can make a person feel infinitely better, even in what seems like a hopeless situation.

Cooking Tools:  Anything you can use to boil food and water it.  A surplus military mess kit is nice, but if you're a fan of cheap and multi-purpose like me, a coffee can doubles as a cooking pot and a survival kit container.  Speaking of which;

Survival Kit:  A multitude of tools to make life in the wilderness easier.  I don't recommend buying a survival kit, as these often contain too much crap you won't use, and not enough that you will.  You can construct a survival kit in whatever you like, but I prefer a coffee can, because, as stated above, it doubles as a cooking pot.  My survival kit contains the following

Magnesium fire starter

Miniature compass

P-38 can opener

Wire camp saw, with leather shoelace handles

Small whetstone

Space blanket

Fishing tackle (Hooks, line, and sinkers.)

Iodine drops.  These make water taste of chlorine, so sodium thiosulfate tablets can be used to neutralize the flavor.

Toiletries:  Unfortunate though it is, you'll likely have to relieve yourself in less than preferable conditions.  In that case, a roll of toilet paper can provide a nice bit of comfort in an otherwise uncomfortable environment.  Additionally, dental hygiene is still important while on the move, so a toothbrush and some sort of cleaning agent, be it toothpaste or baking soda, is essential to avoid complications.   Not only can baking soda be used to clean your teeth, but small quantities can be added to water, along with salt, to replace lost electrolytes.

Bedding:  Be it a backpacking tent, a sleeping bag, a blanket, or a bedroll, bedding is a must.  Sleeping on cold, hard ground will suck the heat out of you, so you at least want a layer of something between you.

Rope:  Rope is an invaluable tool for surviving.  It allows you to lash branches together to make making a makeshift shelter easier.  Though any thin rope or cord can be used, most survivalists, including myself, prefer 550 paracord.  Look for genuine MIL-SPEC MIL-C-5040, as this rope is made up of seven internal strands, each strand being made of three braided strands, giving you up to 21 times the amount of usable string.

Knives:  Carrying at least one knife is important, but I recommend two.  One large, fixed-bladed knife, for chopping and rough shaving and whittling, and a smaller, folding-blade knife, for finer work.  For the folding knife, a "hobo tool" not only gives you the knife, but it also gives you a set of eating utensils.  For the fixed blade knife, a simple buck knife will do, however, I personally prefer a Gurkha kukri, as the curves of the blade have different uses, and the flat back of the blade can be used as a hammer.

Socks:  Your mother was right.  Bring a pair or two of extra socks.  Walking in we socks can accelerate a condition known as "jungle rot," and not wearing socks in your shoes can cause blisters, slowing your progress.

Ammo:  If you intend to bring a firearm with you, make sure that A) you know how to use it.  Many people think that shooting a gun is a simple "point and click," so to speak, but it's actually more difficult than you'd realize.  That being said, bring extra ammunition, and make sure it fits your gun.  Caliber isn't everything.  Nothing will make you feel stupider at death's door than finding out the .45 LC you packed doesn't fit your .45 Auto.

Duct Tape:  Do I need to explain?

Light:  Be it a lantern, flashlight or glowsticks, bring a light source.  A crank-operated flashlight will last indefinitely, and is lightweight, so it makes a good travel companion.

Radio:  A battery or crank-operated radio will allow you to tune in to updates on your situation.  Make a note of your local emergency broadcast signal, and pre-tune it.  Some companies make a combo crank-powered radio/flashlight, meaning you can cut down on what you carry.

Map and Compass:  Put a map and compass in your bag, so you'll be able to plot a course, and maintain it.

In addition, make sure you carry ID when you leave, in case you need to cross any borders.  A passport, if you have it, will be the most versatile.

If you're traveling in a group, make sure each person is responsible for their own gear.  Don't let anyone convince you to carry their pack for them.  Energy is precious, and, as much as you may want to help everyone, each person must be responsible for themselves, first.

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Food

Second only to water in terms of consumables, food is also essential to survival.  Providing the gas for out metaphorical engines, food allows us to carry on our daily routines.  Without it, our body will begin to eat itself to continue on, until, in a matter of weeks, its own stores run out, and the body fails entirely.  Food is much harder to store long term than water, but, with some knowhow and basic equipment, it can be made much, much easier.

In the Home

Storing food at home long term will either require the purchase of prepared, freeze-dried or canned foods.  And, while these can last for some time, and taste quite good, they can be cost prohibitive in the long run.  Instead, some survivalists opt to can their own food.  Not only does this provide for long lasting food storage, but it enables you to control exactly what goes into your food, and can allow you to remain of any special diets you may desire.  It should be noted, of course, that you should make certain that your stored food can fulfill every dietary need of the human body.  Ensure that you have enough complete protein, as well as carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals.  A varied diet of meats, vegetables, fruits and grain is best for this, however, a diet of beans and rice can provide a full, albeit bland, nutritional regiment.

On the Go

Obtaining food while on the move proves a much larger challenge.  While carrying preserved food is possible, it certainly isn't practical.  It will be necessary to find food provided by the wild.

Protein

Finding a source of protein on the move will likely be your biggest challenge.  While the thought of taking down large game like deer is attractive, without some sort of ranged weapon and the training to use it, it's little more than a flight of fancy.

Instead, a person or group should focus on smaller protein sources, such as fish, insects, and rodents.  Methods of obtaining these will be detailed in a later post.

Vegetation

Finding plant matter to eat may be easier than finding protein, but that doesn't make it easy.  Depending on the ecosystem and season, edible plants may anywhere from extremely plentiful, to extremely scarce.  I'll dedicate a single post to the acquisition of edible plants by ecosystem.

Closing

Storing and finding food to survive may seem like a daunting task, but, with a little foresight, and some standard, inexpensive equipment, starving after disaster strikes won't be an issue.

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Water

Nothing in this world is as precious to life as water.  Humans use it daily, to cook, clean, bathe, and keep ourselves hydrated.  But, more often than not, we take it for granted.  We have clean water piped directly into our houses, so we never have to work for it.  Water is alway there when we need it, barring an unforeseen, but easily fixed pump problem.

But, what happens when disaster strike?  How can we cope when the tap stops working?

In the Home

At home, stockpiling water is as easy as cleaning and filling a milk jug when you empty it.  Use the milk jugs with a twist top, as the pop-tops pop off far to easily. These can be stored in milk crates, four to a crate, and stacked as high as the room allows.

If milk jugs are unavailable, any clean, sturdy, resealable container will do.  If you're worried about contamination, invest in a water purification system, be it a pitcher, pump, or tablet.  If time or money prohibit you from purchasing these, water can be sterilized by either boiling it for several minutes, or by adding 8-16 drops of household bleach per gallon of water.  Note that this will not remove physical contaminants, such as dirt or debris.  Only microbial.

If you plan to remain in the home indefinitely, you'll need to find a water supply.

On the Move

When a person, or group is on the move, water becomes even more important.  When traveling, a permanent source of water is impossible, which means you'll have to carry it with you.  Large containers prove too bulky to carry efficiently, which means the best containers are small, personal water bottles.

When moving toward a permanent or semi-permanent shelter, the ability to stockpile water on arrival is of importance, as well.  In this case, magnum latex condoms can be invaluable.  Able to hold nearly a gallon of water each, and durable by nature, condoms are of a negligible size and weight, and will fit easily into the voids in your bug-out bag left by your gear.  Lubricated condoms will keep longer, however, the lubrication may affect the taste of the water.

Water From Plants

Many plants in the world can provide a source of water, as well as some nutrients.  I'll list just a few here.

Grape Vines: Wild grape vines, thick, woody stems common to wooded areas, make for an easy source of water.  Simply cut into a hanging vine, and wait.  Water will run from the cut, unless the weather has been particularly dry.

Barrel Cactus:  The barrel cactus, also called the compass cactus due its tendency to grow toward the south.  These cacti can have their tops cut open, and their innards mashed into a juicy paste.  Note, these are not the cacti commonly seen in media.  Those are the giant saguaro, and those are poisonous.

Prickly Pear:  The fruit of the prickly pear cactus can provide for a refreshing water, commonly just called cactus juice.

Staying Hydrated

It's said that the average person should drink one gallon of water per day.  This may not be accurate.  A good rule of thumb, provided you have enough water, is to drink until your urine runs clear.  This isn't practical in a survival situation.

Early signs of dehydration include yellow, odorous urine, headache, and dizziness.  When you start to notice these signs, drink at least a quart of water.  Drinking a large quantity like this at once will force the body to open the pyloric sphincter, allowing the water fast entry to the large intestine, where it can be absorbed into the body.

Closing

A good rule to live by while surviving is thus:  If you feel thirsty, drink.  Rationing your water will do no good if you die to do it.  Many travelers have been found, dead from dehydration, with a canteen full of water, because they didn't want to waste it.