World's Worst Traveller

fayeto: Journalism student from the UK. A selection of original writing and images from various amazing trips around the UK, and the world. 

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Pollution in Varanasi is threatening the River Ganges

An ancient city standing on the colossal river Ganges: Varanasi is one of the most hectic cities in the world and is not for the faint hearted.  If you’re planning a trip to India, it is a city not to be missed. Varanasi is the holiest of Hindu cities, bursting with culture, a labyrinth of alley ways and steep stair cases called ‘Ghats’ which lead down to the ‘Ma Ganga’ as it is said in Hindi.  It’s difficult to navigate without fear of being knocked down by a rickshaw, or running in to one of the cities thousands of roaming cows.  But as phenomenal as this three thousand year old civilisation is, there is one serious problem which threatens the Ganga.  Pollution.  

(Photo courtesy of Toshi Ono)

Ma Ganga begins high in the Himalayas, but as it winds to its mouth at the Bay of Bengal, the more toxic the waters become.  The Ganges seen as holy water by Hindus and so it is strange that the people of India have allowed this deterioration.  There is an ancient ceremonial practice which takes place at the ‘Burning Ghats’ along the river: Hindu cremations, twenty four hours a day.  The air thick with smoke from the hastily constructed sandal wood pyres.  It is believed that being cremated on the banks of Ma Ganga will end the reincarnation process, which Hindus believe in.  It has been estimated that more than three hundred tonnes of half-burned human flesh is discarded in the Ganges every year-but this is only one source of pollution.  Francesca Hassall visited Varanasi whilst backpacking in Asia.  She spoke about Varanasi in a bittersweet manner.  “The open creations were very shocking, I was sat in a lassi (natural yoghurt) shop, and a dead body was carried past to be taken down the Ganges.  It was very bizarre.  And to see the remains eaten by stray dogs or scraped in to the amazing river is very upsetting.”

Crematory remains is just one of several issues which effect the Ganges.  450 million people live in the region of the Ganges, and the Ganges is the sewerage system which carries away the untreated waste of all of these people.  Tanneries flush away disintegrating flesh and the carcinogenic chrome which is used to treat the leather.  Farms, factories and general waste are also contributing.

India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi, declared that he would be dedicating the equivalent £2 million to a project called ‘Clean Ganga Mission’ which would take place over a five year period.  Francesca said: “The pollution is awful. The Ganges is so stunning and deserves to be treated with more respect, but that will only come through educating people on the importance of being eco-friendly.”

Francesca explained how, despite the pollution, and general mess in Varanasi and around the Ganges, it didn’t put her off the city. “It hasn’t tainted my view.  It’s all part of it, as a traveller you want to go to places that are as different to our Western culture as possible and Varanasi certainly lives up to that expectation.”

(Photo courtesy of PIVISO)

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A fortnight in Morocco on the Cheap (Feature)

Morocco has ancient culture, impressive architecture and great food. It isn’t everyone’s first choice for a holiday, but it absolutely should be, and it doesn’t need to cost the earth.

Flights to Marrakech start as low as £50 return, and overnight hostel stays for around £5 per night don’t break the bank either.

A few tips to prepare you:

Download an offline map app. Fun as it is to be immersed in Morocco’s madness for a few hours, it’s nice to know you have a way to get back to your beloved bunkbed. MapFactor is a great app for Android, or if you’re on iPhone MapsMe does the job well and they are both free.

Pack appropriately. Morocco is sweltering in the summer, but that doesn’t mean shorts and vests are acceptable-if you’re female. Morocco’s younger generation are certainly more liberal in their beliefs, but Islamic culture still dominates. Baggy trousers or leggings are ideal, and t-shirts that cover your shoulders.  You will be able to find ample appropriate clothing for great prices in Morocco’s markets.

Brush up on your beginner’s French and Spanish. Morocco has been speaking the language of love since the French colonisation in 1912, and although Arabic is now the national language most Moroccans are at least bilingual. Following debates between France and Spain in the early 1900s, the two countries agreed to occupy different areas of Morocco. Spanish is now widely spoken in the North of the country and will be useful in Fez, Marrakech and Chefchaouen.

Marrakech is a great place to start your Moroccan adventure. A bustling city, full of life and tradition. It’s relatively centralised, so a convenient transport link to the rest of the country. Moroccan Dirhams are only available on arrival, so grab yours at the airport before bartering for a cab. ‘Petit Taxis’ and ‘Grand Taxis’ are Morocco’s answer to New York’s trademark yellow cabs-except the Moroccan cabs look like they have been left out in the sun since 1993 (and realistically, that is the case).

Walking around Marrakech is a great sensory experience. Jemaa el-Fnaa is the city’s main square, packed full of juice vendors (the orange is really good) and snake charmers.  It’s also the gateway to the market. Once inside, watch out for mopeds-they will not slow down for you. Learn to jump or learn the hard way! There is a wealth of architecture within Marrakech’s medina, some of which is as old as the city itself. The Bahia Palace and Ben Youssef Madrasa-previously an Islamic college- are fantastic examples of Moroccan design and architecture, which showcase elaborate floor and wall tiles, stained glass and intricate carpentry.

Nestled in the Atlas Mountains, just a few hours from Marrakech is Ourika Valley. It is considerably cooler in the mountains, and the serenity provides some rest-bite from busy city life. North Africa’s native people are called ‘Berbers’, and their villages are commonplace in the mountains. Berbers know this rocky terrain like no one else, and the Berber guides even compare themselves to mountain goats, effortlessly hopping from one rocky ledge to another. A day trip to the valley isn’t only insightful but an excellent work out.

Located in the Rif Mountains, The Blue Pearl, or Chefchaouen, is stunning. The walls and cobbled streets of the old city are washed in blue paint, and there are several theories why. To keep the old alleyways cool. As a mosquito repellent. Or to reflect the blue sky, and bring you a little bit closer to God. You can make up your own mind when you’re there.  Chefchaouen’s mountainous location makes it the ideal walking destination. If you’re feeling brave, as a traditional end to your busy day trekking you could eat brain tagine for dinner for about £3 a go.

Merzouga. A small Saharan town, 455 miles south east of Chefchaouen, and only 30 miles from the Algerian border. Three day tours to the desert cost between £80 to £100. This town sits in those trademark orange dunes, which span as far as the eye can see. It’s a wonderful place to spend a night or two in the desert. Cameliers will guide you and your caravan of camels through these monumental dunes with absolutely no navigational difficulty.

Lying under the stars on a dusty desert mattress is the best place to sleep in the Sahara. On clear evenings you can see the Milky Way twinkling above you and endless stars. Sandstorms and rain showers can be likely in the desert, so don’t be disheartened if visibility isn’t great. Sitting around in the pouring, sandy rain and sharing stories and laughing with the people from all over the world, whilst listening to camels grumbling can be a big part of the joy of this bucket list experience.  

Morocco can seem like a daunting country to visit, but not knowing exactly what to expect is part of the fun. The terrain is picturesque everywhere you go, and it is nice to be amongst Islamic culture, without any of the negative media. It’s the ideal backpacking trip, for when you want to experience a lot but don’t have six months and loads of cash on your hands.  You can visit these incredible places (and many more-Essouira, Fez and Rabat all have something different to offer), eat some amazing food and pick up some top quality souvenirs all in two weeks, and if you budget well it can be done for around £600. Absolute bargain.

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A Weekend at Wast Water-3 Things You Should Do

The Lake District is the perfect location for a scenic weekend away at any time of year-absolute 10/10 would recommend. Windy, country roads-often obstructed by lazy sheep (aka my soul mates/hair twins), proper fresh air, and scenery so breathtaking it’s like you’ve stepped in to another country. 

Granted, if you don’t like the countryside or walking, then this isn’t the place for you... But if you do, book your trip now! These are the three things I would recommend you do whilst at Wast Water in the winter. 

1) Stay in an Air BnB

My first lengthy stay in an Air BnB was absolutely not a disappointment. After a shockingly bad holiday in August to the Caribbean (haven’t mustered the courage to recount that one yet...), I learned: ‘always remember to read the reviews’ the hard way. 

Rose’s Cottage is a beautiful, stone walled, two bedroom cottage (one double, one twin) in a tiny hamlet in the heart of the lakes. Complete with a log burner, and open fire as well as stunning mountain views from the windows. I didn’t want to leave this amazing house and come back to the drabness that is town/city life! #bumpkinatheart

(It’s the cute little one with the black door  ↓)

2) Go to the beach at St Bees

It may not seem like an obvious choice when you’re visiting THE LAKES, but who can resist the call of the sea? There’s no special reason that you should go here. It’s a nice pebble beach, with a great hill/ocean view, and is only a 25 minute drive out of the lakes. Plus, there is the added bonus of that noise when the sea drags over pebbles. You know the one. V. relaxing... I just have a deep love for the sea, and think that you should too. 

(It also makes for some great Insta posts!)

(Water is pretty nippy in January, make sure you bring two pairs of socks for when you get out...)

3) Walk Yewbarrow

Maybe (like me) you’re still feeling a bit weighed down by all the brie and cranberry toasties that you scoffed over the Christmas period, and scaling the highest mountain in England seems like a pretty tall (ha) ask, but you still want a good hike that gives you a sense of achievement. Yewbarrow is your gal. 

Directly North of Wast Water (deepest lake in the UK), lies Yewbarrow. At 628 metres it’s a nice climb-but not so high you think you’re going to die. A mixture or steep grassy slopes, and vertical rock faces it is a definite achievement when you make it to the top. (I realise that it’s not that high at all, but please remember excessive consumption of toasties prior to this trip...)

(Bill at the top after he nearly died ↓)

(Me at the top, I didn’t nearly die  ↓)

(View from (near) the top  ↓)

The way down is steep and and takes much longer than you’d expect. But down the hill and round the corner is a lovely country pub The Wasdale Head Inn, where you can relax with a well earned beverage in front of the log burner. They also have a very friendly pub dog called Billy who will gladly sit with you after your 11km round journey. 

Although the winter isn’t the ideal time to be dipping your toes in lakes, it doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the scenery that this National Trust location has to offer. Enjoy hearty pub grub, a great walk and a pint of lake brewed beer in the British Lake District.

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Morocco-An introduction

It was the fortnight when the Brits were complaining of a “heat wave”. It was 33 degrees, and the pasty natives were getting a bit sweaty. My friends and family were complaining to me about this, whilst I was hiking mountains in temperatures somewhere in the fourties, in a country where shorts are just not that acceptable.  Morocco was just a fantastic(ally clammy) experience.

I was pleasantly surprised in a lot of ways by Morocco.  As with every trip I was excited to go, but I had been warned about what to expect, and I wasn’t expecting an easy ride.

On a cultural level, Morocco was plain sailing. Dress appropriately, and no one wants to trade you for any camels.  Even though a camel is probably a good deal. Soz Fran. BUT JUST LOOK AT HIS FUNNY LITTLE FACE.

Northern Africa provides a wealth of terrain. Rocky mountains, lush forests, Atlantic beaches and the Sahara.  Top tips for enjoying this gorgeous country include: 

Take your walking shoes-It’s sweaty and hot, but Morocco is hugely a walking holiday (if you’re not doing the 5* thing which I absolutely am not on a student budget) Watch out for dangerous creatures - Eaten alive is probably an understatement. An allergic reaction to bed bugs is not an attractive prospect, especially in the heat. (My mate from pest control says: check the creases in the mattresses for any little blood spots. Should save you any issues and prevent you looking like this:)

Also, snakes with red bellies can kill. Beware when swimming.

Regularly reapply sunscreen- On some days Morocco lures you in to a false sense of security, when the wind feels slightly refreshing and less like a hair drier pelting you in the face. This is unfortunate, because despite the cool breeze you could end up with a booty that resembles the Polish flag. 

Travelling Morocco during Ramadan was a beautiful experience.  It’s refreshing to experience Islamic culture in such a pure way.  There is a lot to do, see, do and (most importantly) eat, even though this isn’t the easiest chore during a food-free religious holiday. The architecture is beautiful, the landscape is diverse, and the weather is gorgeous. VISIT MOROCCO.

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Marrakech Roofs

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I miss trotting round the globe with Bae @fayeto

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Ate a lassi in Varanasi

There is a line in the ‘Best Exotic Marigold Hotel’, where Judy Dench’s character says about India: “Never has a place been such an assault of the senses.” This, is Varanasi.

Sight: A strange ancient world. Ghats leading down to the cast River Ganga. An abundance of people and animals. The old city and it’s narrow alleys and high walls like a labyrinth of life. Fire. Burning twenty four hours a day.

Smell: Death. The constant burning of bodies along the Ganges is quite something to behold. The smell of cremation masked by sandalwood  It’s mesmerising and terrifying at the same time. How many time have you seen a burning corpse?

Feel: The sweltering heat, twenty. Four. Seven. There is no escape from the warmth, the humidity, the thin layer of sweat that you can never quite get rid of.

Hear: Prayer. Song. Laughter. Crying. Music. The noises are dense, difficult to distinguish between. People plunging in to the Ganges, buffalo grinding their teeth and grunting, a constant canine chorus.

Taste: Lassi: thick and tasty yoghurt, flavoured just the way you like it. Thali: Hearty and really Indian. That dreamy curry combo that is acceptable to eat for every meal of the day, costs between 45p-70p and is refillable. Complete with chai.

For my first real stop in India, Varanasi was sensational. The spiritual capital of India and the home of Shiva. It’s filthy, crazy, emotionally and physically testing. Not for the faint hearted. Enter with caution. 

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I’m on fire, da da da daaa da da da da daaa, da da da da da, d d d daaaaa

Two weeks later, the sunburn hast thankfully reverted to pasty white that we all know and love, leaving barely a trace of evidence that I was actually in the Middle East at all: “Surprised you’re not more tanned than that Faye!” “HAHAHAHA. Good one. Bite me.”

Israel is a tiny country, only around 270 miles at it’s longest, and not somewhere that is the top of everyone’s ‘to visit’ list.  Media portrayal of Israel in this country is abysmal, and isn’t at all accurate compared to actually being IN the country.  I felt very safe for the majority of the trip, the only time  felt any reverberations of the strict military regime and potential threats were moving out of the country through air port security.  Prepare to have everything down to your unwashed underwear investigated...

My time in Israel was essentially a road trip from South to North, stopping at:

Eilat: Bordering with Egypt, The Red Sea and Jordan. The second hottest place I have ever visited.

The Dead Sea: The lowest point in the world! Half industrialised, half tourist orientated,  The hottest place I have ever visited. All salt you will ever consume in Israel is from the Dead Sea. Also bordering with Jordan.

Jerusalem: A perfect blend of modern functionality and historic beauty. The new city is like any modern city I’ve ever visited, congested roads, busy high streets, a tram system. The Old City, encased in 12m high walls and wrapped in history. A warren of beautiful religious buildings, homes and market stalls.

Palestine, The Western Bank. Ramallah and Bethlehem: Travelling through the wall by bus to Ramallah is like crossing a country border. Israel changes from Westernised comfort to dusty, Asian commotion, not too dissimilar to India! All Hebrew script is gone, it’s now Arabic. Ramallah is considered the most affluent and liberal city within Palestine.

Several hours away by sweaty mini bus, having travelled though Arabic villages, and through windy mountain roads you can arrive at Bethlehem. It’s vibrant, quaint and the Church of the Nativity is beautiful.  You don’t need to be religious to appreciate the beauty and immense meaningfulness of this place.

Ga’aton and Bei’ri: An introduction to life in a Kibbutz! Like a small village. Homely.  Everyone knows everyone and there is a strong sense of community. Pet dogs are free to roam around the kibbutz-they have fenced perimeters.

Tel Aviv: Hot. Home to a busy nightlife, quirky cafe bars, a bouncing flea market, great sea food and the Med. Not a bad place to end a trip.

As much as Israel was an interesting holiday and a cultural experience, it was amazing to share the trip with others who have become friends since our meeting on the other side of the world last year.  To make and maintain friendships with people you meet abroad, who are again from somewhere else is a gift, and I am so grateful to have had the experience.

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Jerusalem Roofs, August 2016

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Holska to Polska

23/05/16-27/05/16

“Why go to Poland?” seems to be the number one question on everyone’s lips, post holiday.  And the answer is: ‘Why not/because I wanted to/for the bants/I was bored/I was hungry...’ The list goes on. As with all of my trips I was unprepared, overly tired and didn’t know what to expect. On arrival I sweaty, because as it goes Poland is a HOT place. My all round bud and travel companion Franno decided she liked the airport so much that she could live there.  We flew in to Wroclaw and jumped on a bus in search of our hostel.

The first thing to note about Poland is how inexpensive everything is, in comparison to the UK, which is just fantastic news for the broke student. The average cost of a hostel for one night is £7.50 in a mixed dorm room-a fantastic way to meet people. (Vodka in Poland is also cheap, and is also a great way to meet people.)

On this very short trip we stayed in two cities. Wroclaw and Krakow. Wroclaw is a very beautiful city and was about 30 degrees.  The city square is beautiful and a great place for a jug of Polish beer or two, and some food. Nothing is really too far away, and if you’re not totally incompetent like me, you could save yourself even more time by hopping on the very efficient public transport system.  Whilst in Wroclaw you MUST see the Dwarfs (not that you can miss them), visit the Square and the market, take in the fantastic bridges and architecture, get some really tasty ice cream from Polish Lody and of course, get drunk-your hostel should be able to help you with this.

Krakow was amazing, and a different vibe to Wroclaw. Whereas Wroclaw is quite quaint, and love locks on bridges, Krakow is a slight split personality.  By night: drunk girls crying to their friends, clubbing until 10am, and some cheeky dumplings (from 24 hour Dumplings off of the main square) at two in the morning. But by day it is glorious and sunny, full of historical monuments, nice eateries and complimentary gherkins. Searching for real Polish food is a great idea, and something you won’t regret.

Top tips: I would highly recommend a phrase book/learning some Polsku before you visit the country. No one likes looking like a very silly sausage. 

Have a good look at the currency before you buy things, just to get used to the coinage. 

Don’t be offended when people don’t smile/seem overly friendly (eg. in a shop). you’re there to buy stuff and get out, not to make friends, and we must, as difficult as it is, put our disgustingly British and over the top manners to one side.

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Wroclaw Square, May 2016

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Hometown bloom

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Poon Hill-The Hill

10-14/2/2071

Firstly, Poon Hill is the actual name of this particular hill.

Secondly, I would appreciate it if you refrained from laughing at the word poon throughout this post.

As a foreigner, trekking in Nepal is not a cheap activity (again remembering the very tight budget), especially when you consider that Nepali people get this for free... But in the home of the Himalayas it would have been just be plain rude not to go.  

Before this trek, the most advanced walking I had done was my Gold Duke of Edinburgh award in Snowdonia, North Wales, which in all fairness put me in good stead for this adventure.

People who regularly trek, who are good at it, who love it and who know how to not die in the mountains or lose a limb to frost bite will tell you that Poon Hill is not a real trek. My argument to this being that I am rather partial to all four of my limbs and twenty digits and I wasn’t about to pretend like I was in a good enough physical condition to skip up Everest.

I embarked on this trek leaving the beloved BFF behind because she didn’t fancy the 5am start (such a lazy moose), and heading off with two fab Bavarian guys Julian and Flo, who to me were the German, male equivalent of Fran and I anyway, so I was excited.

(Look how grumpy she can be...)

Ghorepani (2874m)  is the final village before Poon Hill itself, nestled away high in the hills.  We arrived quite late in the afternoon, so settled in for the long, cold night. We slept until 4am the following morning. Rising before dawn means that you can make the walk (the remaining 336 metres) to the top of Poon Hill before sunrise. 

(Photo courtesy of: mountainsoftravelphotos.com)

(Poon Hill from a distance)

There were a brutal number of steps beteen Ghorepani and Poon Hill, but the cold sweats of a Himalayan morning were worth every minute.  

I have never believed in magic, but watching the spectrums of light bounce off the ice as the sun slowly illuminated the mountains is as close as I think it is possible to get.  The sheer size and beauty of these mountains was overwhelming, and by far the most vivid and amazing memory I have of this trip.

The photos do it no justice.

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Holi Moley

Nepal has its fair share of festivals, and whilst in Nepal we experienced two: ’Holi’ and ‘Maha Shivaratri’.  Seeing the photographs a few weeks ago of this years’ Holi Festival was somewhat depressing to me as I gaped out of my window to admire the monotone tedium that is the Great British ‘Spring’

Pokhara, Holi Festival, 5/3/15

 Holi Festival is a celebration of colour and sharing love and I was lucky enough to celebrate in my favourite city with some amazing people.  Originally Hindu, the festivities have no grown to include everyone, and not just in Nepal and India as was previously the case.

Children take their positions early on in the day, prepared to pelt any passers-by with powder paint, or unexpectedly drench them in coloured water. (Even the dogs should expect to be decorated.) 

People parade the streets playing music, singing and dancing.  On Lakeside, Holi is mainly celebrated by the younger generation who come out on mass to party at the annual rock festival.  The atmosphere and music were amazing-there is a strong support for rock music amongst young Nepali people.

Here’s a link I stole from YouTube of an amazing rock band from Pokhara (who we watched on at least a weekly basis) called The Wave.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mga9rUlrsLc&ebc=ANyPxKruQgvPlN9ntax36HCZjwm8RWzYy539JQHc529wSb6h2hvE9UP8owc9i0_oY_c8rgoZDGfiuoQFrjp-Op-VzJCyvff6lw&nohtml5=False

The only down side when in such close proximity with hundreds of other people, is the ‘touchy feely’ shenanigans of the young men. Nepali ladies have the right idea by standing at the side, grope-free. Ladies it’s always wise to be vigilant and stand up for yourself in any situation like this. Fortunately this was the only time in Nepal we experienced anything of this nature, and it didn’t deter us from the vibrancy, and the gorgeous day and the great friends all whilst looking absolutely ridiculous.

WARNING: Whilst participating in Holi be vigilant of passers by on mopeds and non-suspect children. THEY WILL GET YOU.

Shivaratri

Shivaratri is another Hindu festival celebrated throughout the night as a sign of deep respect for Lord Shiva who is thought to have saved the universe from ignorance and darkness.

Fires burn long in to the night as part of a ritual to cleanse peoples’ inner evil.  We celebrated with fire shows and cocktails, but I think Shiva understood the link between my respect for a Mojito and my respect Him.

Everyone spends this evening together chanting, and praying and sharing Bhang Lassis a plenty.

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Prayer flags breezin’. Great Boudha Stupa, Budhanath, Kathmandu (photography courtesy of Fran Hassal @francesca-is-a-hassall)

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Little Tibet

We visited a Tibetan settlement during our stay in Pokhara which was a fifteen minute drive from Lakeside.  Whilst travelling in cars/on motorbikes in Nepal it’s important to remember that there is no limit to how many people you can fit in a car/on the back of a motorbike, you just have to accept the squeeze.  On arrival we were greeted by an older gentleman who was keen to show us his ‘Tibetan handicrafts’, which are essentially bead bracelets/necklaces/key rings/anythings that you can buy anywhere in Nepal... Not to make the poor chap feel mediocre. 

The Buddhist feel is strong within the settlement, as you’d expect from Tibetan refugees and their decedents, with the religious building taking centre stage and accommodation around the edges of the settlement.  Whilst in Kathmandu we visited the Great Boudha Stupa or Boudhanath, which is one of the largest stupas in Nepal-so the settlement didn’t quite live up to this level of grandeur.

(LOOK! It’s me at the Stupa)

 As a form of prayer, Buddhists walk clockwise around the building, turning the prayer wheels as they go-this is actually quite a relaxing experience. (See me showing some giggly girlies a picture of them in front of the prayer wheels, below)

 (Photo credit Francesca Hassall) 

We walked up and in to the building where we could get a view of the whole settlement, which by the way comes complete with a basketball court and many goats! 

There were some monks sat in dark rooms, learning or chanting and not at all easily distracted by our invasive staring.  Up another flight of stairs brought us to the roof where the baby monks were doing their school work and messing about.  Kids will be kids, regardless of their chosen paths.

 (Photo credit Fiona Glen)

Tibetan people are still campaigning for independence in their home country, and refugees/Tibetan people have been known to be subject to hate crime.  We met a young boy with burns down the side of his face and ear. Far too often we don’t consider the struggles that others must endure. Fortunately this hadn’t taken the smile off of his face, or stopped him having fun with his friends.

 (Photo credit Francesca Hassall)

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Way to Lakeside

Pokhara is Nepal’s second largest city, and where we spent the majority of our time whilst in Nepal.  Despite it’s size we spent most of our time on North Lakeside, Fewa Lake, eating poor interpretations of Western Food, learning to play with fire and celebrating Nepali festivals with new friends.

Pokhara is one of the most relaxing places on the earth, especially compared to the hustle and bustle of the capital city.  Nepali people say about Kathmandu: “This is not the real Nepal. Real Nepal is quiet and green and peaceful”.  

  The lake is serene, beautiful and very cold which we found out all too quickly after jumping in on a whim... (The shock wasn’t enough to stop us doing it again, especially after a certain friend ate too much “jazz pasta” and became oblivious to all temperatures and weather conditions).

There is no shortage of things to do in/around Pokhara: temples, bars and clubs, cafes, boating, walks, paragliding, Tibetan settlements to visit, and it is reasonably close to the Annapurna Mountain Range which makes it an ideal base for trekking. 

In Pokhara I fell in love with the culture, the hospitality (AGAIN), the people and of course a dog, as with every place I have ever visited-please admire his sleepy face.

But this is not to say that Nepal is the easiest place to visit.  The incredible severity of poverty in which some people,  find themselves can be overwhelming, and there is very little you can do to help. A constant struggle, which almost induces guilt just for having a good time... Being the terrible person that I am, I had an incredible time and would recommend Pokhara to anyone.  

I came to Nepal after meeting two, young Nepali guys who were working at the same festival as me in the UK. We were having an in depth conversation about all of our previous, regrettable life decisions and all of the questionable things we were still planning on doing. I told them I wanted to travel to Asia, and India in particular with no valid reasoning when they told me to visit  Nepal first.  They said it’s nicer, more calm, more beautiful, the people are less in your face and it’s a much less brutal introduction to Asian life. I’m glad I’m so trusting in strangers because given the opportunity I would move to Nepal in an instant and am so grateful for the advice.