Kanzashi of The Month: October - Chrysanthemums
I don’t like cold weather, but October features one of my favorite flowers, so it gets a pass in my book (also, Halloween candy). This is going to be the most image heavy feature yet as Kazurasei has provided ample examples over the past year!
Image courtesy of Kazurasei.
Kiku (菊) - Chrysanthemum
What isn’t there to love about such a beautiful and versatile flower!? Whether wild or cultivated, the chrysanthemum can vary in size from that of a nickel all the way to ones that are larger than your hand! Chrysanthemums are actually part a mega family of plants, which include many different types of chrysanthemums, dahlias, asters, daisies, dandelions, marigolds, echinacea (cone flowers), zinnias, and sunflowers. This family, Asteraceae, is the second largest flower family in the world, dwarfed only by the orchids.
With that said, what makes a chrysanthemum different from its other family members? A chrysanthemum is a flower native to Asia and parts of northern Europe whose petals tend to be positioned in rows and do not overlap while in the row. Common chrysanthemums are known for their thin, pointed petals and multitude of colors. Fancy Chrysanthemums, also known as Show Chrysanthemums, have been cultivated in China since at least 1,500 BCE.
Image courtesy of Kazurasei.
Each year the Chrysanthemum Festival (Kiku Matsuri - 菊祭) is held on the ninth day of the ninth month, so it can be held on the Gregorian calendar date of September 9th, but is most often celebrated on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, which places it between October and November when the chrysanthemums are actually in bloom. Chrysanthemum shows are popular both within Japan and outside of it, and it’s likely that there’s a show near you each autumn! According to the National Chrysanthemum Society of America, there are thirteen recognized categories of fancy chrysanthemums, each with their own unique characteristics and shapes.
Image courtesy of Kazurasei.
In Japan, the chrysanthemum holds a special status as one of two official flowers, the other being cherry blossoms. However, its prestige has been established for a much longer time, as far back as 650 CE or possibly earlier, as the symbol of the elites. The emperor would give gifts of these special flowers as honored treasures, and soon the elites strove to grow the biggest, brightest, and most unique blooms.
Eventually the emperor would officially adopt the sixteen petal chrysanthemum as his personal kamon in the 12th century. It is said that the sixteen petal chrysanthemum resembles the rays of the sun, which is fitting as the emperor is a descendant of the sun goddess Amaterasu. Even today, only the emperor can use the sixteen petal chrysanthemum as his kamon. Other members of the royal family, whether past or present, were given variations of the chrysanthemum to use as their kamon.
Image courtesy of Kazurasei.
When it comes to kanzashi, chrysanthemums can be equally varied in its design and structure. The traditional chrysanthemum petal shape is thin and pointed and is folded in the same way as many leaves. Small chrysanthemums usually contain between eight and ten petals each and are often clustered together. Medium sized chrysanthemums, typically found in groups of three, contain around 100 petals each. The large, single chrysanthemums that are most often worn by senior maiko can contain a whopping 250 petals or more!
The spider chrysanthemums, known as Rangiku (乱菊) (below), are made with rounded petals that are twisted with techniques that require a great amount of skill. Since the petals are often thicker there aren’t as many needed for a kanzashi. Medium sized rangiku, like the one below, have an average of fifty petals while the large, single rangiku contain approximately 125.
Image courtesy of Kazurasei.
Chrysanthemums have some of the most varied rules when it comes to all kanzashi. Both junior and senior maiko can wear the medium sized ones in groups of three, like Satsuki (紗月) of Tsurui (つる居) in Gion Kobu (below). She was still a junior maiko when this was taken, but she looked quite mature, so I can see why her okasan allowed her to use it.
Image courtesy of GMK48.
Small chrysanthemums worn in bunches are also popular and can be worn by the most junior and the most senior maiko. Tsuruha (つる葉) of Tama (多麻) in Gion Kobu (below) was a senior maiko in her last year of apprenticeship when she wore this semi-shidare piece. Its bright colors and unique design make it just as suitable for a junior as it does a senior!
Image courtesy of a friend who wishes to remain anonymous.
Round petal chrysanthemums that are not rangiku tend to be the most rare as they resemble plum blossoms to some extent and can be confused for them if you don’t take a second to get a good look. The piece that Umehisa (梅比沙) of Umeno (梅乃) in Kamishichiken (below) is wearing combines the rounded petal chrysanthemums with the pointed petal variety, which seems almost reminiscent of summer clematis. What distinguishes them from clematis are their petal counts: both the round and pointed chrysanthemums have seven petals, with their eighth slot being taken up by a pointed petal. Plum blossoms feature only five petals while clematis have six.
Image courtesy of a friend who wishes to remain anonymous.
I actually own the katsuyama piece of the set above, which you can see in a bit more detail here:
Image courtesy of myself.
Although the other pieces are iconic, none is more so than the single, large chrysanthemum kanzashi. Once again, it can be worn by the most junior or the most senior of maiko, but the juniors will have the addition of a tassel in lieu of shidare. Very senior maiko, like Kanako (叶子) of Kawahisa (川久) in Miyagawa Cho (below) often wear this massive bloom with a kushi instead of a katsuyama piece so that the chrysanthemum will be the focal point of the entire outfit.
Image courtesy of Balbo42.
Finally, we can see the elegance that is the rangiku. They follow the same rules as the other sizes of chrysanthemums, so senior maiko Mameryū (まめ柳) of Tama (多麻) (below) looks natural with her cluster of three rangiku. In order to show off her senior status a bit more she is wearing a kushi instead of katsuyama; this is an excellent idea as it highlights her lovely kanzashi that has been used by many maiko in her okiya and her seniority as she will become a geiko next month ^^
Image courtesy of Exclusive Kyoto.
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