My Joker corset probably has more structure and engineering involved than any other corset I’ve ever made to date. Here’s a brief tutorial about how I made the bust work.
1- (Cups) The fashion layer of the cup is fused with non-woven pellon and hymo interfacing. At first I tried just heavy pellon, but it wasn’t enough. The inner layer of the cup is satin coutil fused to a layer of pellon. Their is a rigilene bone along part of the top edge, and a section of nylon horsehair acting as a “sling” on the side of the cup. Both layers were completed separately, then hand stitched (hidden under the trim) together along the cup seams.
2- (Body) The fashion layer of the corset is fused with pellon, and has an additional layer of hymo interfacing framing the cups/ribs area ending about 2″ bellow. The inner layer is plain coutil, although I did add a satin facing at the V for comfort. The two layers were first joined along the V, creating a casing for the v wire. The front and body of the corset was then stitched together to form all of the bone casings. The front has two 1/2″ bones angled from center front at the bottom, up into the very base of the cups. This created some negative space in the middle, which I filled with 1/4″ bones.
3- (Final fitting) Before completely closing the top and adding the last of the trim, I had a final fitting with the help of a friend.
4- (Finishing) I hand finished all of the interior cup edges with more satin (It feels amazing) and decided to add some foam inserts cannibalized from a bra. Securely hand sewing them into the very base of the cup helped add a little more lift and support the bottom of the cup.
Final Photo is courtesy of Her Universe and Kelsy Edwards Photography