âSOMETHING QUINTESSENTIAL
THE TEN COMMANDMENTS OF A BRITISH SUIT;
â1: BUTTONS. Single and double-button suits tend to be more traditionally British. The button you do up should always be roughly at your navel. Don't fasten the bottom button, it is superfluous - it is just there for the look and when done up it will pull the jacket out of shape (meaning you will look silly!)
â2: WAIST: A suit should not be designed to be suppressed at the waist, there should just be enough of a flare over the hips, but it is not a corset!
â3: SHOULDERS. A classic British suit should fit the body and be as snug as a hug and therefore the shoulders shouldn't be too wide or narrow. Classically they should be slightly padded, but only so much that they provide structure. Over-padding can make you look like the Incredible Hulk... not a good look. They should also end sharply in a 90 degree angle between the shoulder and the sleeve of the suit.
â4: SLEEVES. They should allow a finger length gap to the end of the shirt's cuff and should fit neatly... you don't need enough room to hide a magicians tricks.Â
â5:SIDE VENTS. Some tailors would disagree, but the revered tailors of London's Savile Row often insist on side vets for a British suit. They tend to allow access to your pockets without tugging at the suit fabric. Not to mention they are often better for those who are more substantial in girth as they are much kinder to the rear!
â6: LENGTH. As a general rule the coat length should be half the distance between the floor and the top of the collar. It should all be measure in proportion to your high.
â7: POCKETS: Placement is key. A slanted pocket references to the old horseback days, where a slight angle of the pockets made it easier to access, but now it adds a touch of panache and style to your look. Ticket pockets above the main pocket should never be used on a double breasted suit, but tend to look good on a three-button suit and can add a younger look.Â
â8: GORGE. A technical term to describe the area of the coat where the lapel and collar meet. Traditionally British suits tend to have a higher gorge, but moderation is the key to any good tailoring. So long as the lapels are neither too wide or too narrow, you should look like the dog's bollocks!
â9: TROUSERS. Contrary to popular belief, the rise between the legs should be as HIGH as possible, so long as it remains comfortable. This makes your legs longer, and therefore you taller and more powerful. The wider you are at the waist, the higher you should wear your trousers - it will make you look leaner, taller and definitely more sexy.
â10: CUT. While skinny trousers can make you look slender, remember that trousers are meant to be practical. Allow some movement chaps! Turn-ups can also add weight to the outfit, and improve the hang of your trousers... however the downside is that they can make your legs look shorter and will NOT enhance the look of single breasted suits.
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