Shortcuts
So I’m back. The First 5 Year story arc is done, and we’re rolling right along into the next arc. I’ll be getting back to actual props soon, but in the meantime, I want to take a moment to talk about a few shortcuts.
When you’re dealing with fast deadlines, you’re inevitably going to come up against some walls you can’t get around without doing things ‘not quite right’. You can’t reason with a too-short deadline. You can’t reason with weather, or shipping times. You have to make do with limited space if you live in an apartment.
A lot of this can be managed with good planning - Start projects as early as possible. Order your materials ASAP or keep them stocked. Know your local suppliers, and which online suppliers will be able to deliver on short notice without you paying out the nose for shipping (we use Amazon Prime, and if I am on a tight deadline I’ll keep my Ebay search parameters to sellers within 100 miles of me, though that can be risky). Check weather reports, find friends with a garage or basement you can borrow for crafting in so you don’t have to breathe fumes or particulate in your home.
**** The following notes are from my own experience, specifically for LARP props (mostly EVA foam ones) that can be less than perfect. YMMV. If you’re making something for sale or for a customer, or something you want to last a good long while, I really suggest doing things as ‘right’ as possible. ****
CUTTING AND SANDING - How neat do you want it?
The Right Way: For clean foam work, there is really nothing that beats a sharp knife and sanding tools to make that surface perfect (OK, -maybe- a laser cutter). The Problem: Sanding foam throws up a ton of non-friendly dust, and if you’re stuck indoors and don’t have a dedicated workroom this can be a huge pain. It’s also going to take time to get it to look right... which is fine.... if you have that time. The Shortcut: I don’t sand. There are cases where a design might require it, but I design to avoid those. For thin and medium foam, I will sometimes use scissors for cutting. I will not, however, skimp on a sharp knife for thick foam. A few seconds every 3 cuts or so with a sharpening tool is entirely worth it. Consequences: Potentially ragged seams if you don’t cut well. You’ll have to make sure your angles are right ahead of time.
GLUE - Grab fast, Stick well.
The Right Way: Arguably, contact cement is one of the better adhesives for foam work. You get a crisp looking seam and consistent adhesion between the surfaces you are gluing, right to the edges. The Problem: But, oh, those fumes, and that 10-15 minute dry time (which can be reduced slightly with heat), and that sticky mess if you’re not careful. Meanwhile, super-glue sticks like heck at first, but can snap off or eat away at your materials or paint. The Shortcut: My go-to for foam has always been hot glue. It sticks as quickly as superglue and has no fumes. Adhesion doesn’t seem to be a problem - if your glue is sufficiently hot when applied you’re more likely to rip the foam than to get the glue to let go, particularly if you score the two surfaces with a knife before gluing (like with pottery). I haven’t had anything come unstuck in hot weather. Consequences: Again, your seams will probably not be pretty, and you have to be careful with thin craft foam because the hot glue is hot enough to deform it, leaving lumps where you applied the glue.
COATING - A step you can skip entirely.
The Right Way: Much debate is had over what base coating is best for foam. Plastidip and rubberized coatings are a go-to for many (again, an issue with fumes being toxic, and 'dip is fickle when it comes to weather), and some still use layers of wood glue or mod podge (I don’t recommend these, they are time consuming to apply and tend to crack or crease badly). The Problem: This is another coat, or coats, of something you need to have the correct weather for and time you can spend waiting for it to dry. Is it worth it? The Shortcut: For LARP NPC costuming, my favorite coating is none. Heat-seal the foam, and paint that sucker up. Don’t bother with a top coat, either. Consequences: Your paint job will possibly crack (more likely if you coat it heavily with paint) and scuff more easily.
To be fair, this armor took a serious beating over the course of a year.
PAINT - As fast as you can?
The Right Way: Use plastic-friendly, indoor/outdoor spraypaint/primer combos, of the same brand, follow instructions regarding coating times, weather conditions, and dry times. Don’t paint indoors. The Problem: Uncooperative weather conditions, lack of time, limited materials. The Shortcut: Yes, you can paint in any weather conditions. Yes, you can mix brands or use paints without primer or plastic adhesion. Yes, if your event is tonight, you can paint it now and be okay. (No, do not do this in your apartment. You will regret it.) Consequences: Your surface finish will not be perfect. If it’s humid in your garage, or raining outside, you’re going to end up with paint that will run or stipple. If it’s very cold, the paint may bead and run. Use a heater or fan to help reduce the extremes, or at least wait until it isn’t raining. Mixing brands? Be aware not all brands like each other, and may react to each other in an undesirable way. Non-Plastic and Non-Primer paints will work okay, but will not coat your prop as well. Not enough dry time according to the label? If you have given it at least the minimum “to handle” time, it should be okay. Your project will smell strongly of paint and might be mildly sticky. Additional: If I can skip painting, or reduce it to something I can do by hand with acrylic paint, I will. I try to use foam that is the final color I want, or close to it. Even if you are painting, having a base foam that is gray or black is preferable in most cases, so no ‘funky’ colors show through at the edges, seams, or anyplace the paint gets damaged.
Rainy weather and humidity combined with a rush paint job caused this paint to run and pool at the bottom of the foam.
Again, these shortcuts may or may not work out for you. Test them, consider what you are willing to sacrifice in terms of quality in exchange for the ability to finish your project on time, or to get a few more hours to work on other things... like getting a reasonable amount of sleep.


















