InMyBigFatOpinion

Enlightened travels abroad and elsewhere (In My Big Fat Opinion). For more information, visit whereonearthtravel.com

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The Atacama Desert Experience - One Not To Be Missed

You cannot go to Chile without going to the Atacama Desert. As I write this, I am looking out over red rock formations and snowcapped mountains. It is like Sedona Arizona on steroids. There really are no words to describe the juxtaposition of brilliantly colored desert landscape and vast expanses of desert and Andean Mountains.

We stayed at the Alto Atacama. It is based loosely on the concept of a local village,  so you meander around adobe, stone, and modern petroglyphs.  There even are four resident llamas to complete the picture. The outside spaces are beautifully picturesque, with mineral baths, six pools to lounge around in and tremendous privacy.  The spa is lovely, small, lined with black stone and an inner courtyard, steam, sauna and Scottish showers. You can also get a massage outside on a special platform overlooking the red desert and mountains. Spa treatments are based on indigenous materials and are quite unique. Paths are landscaped with native foliage and pomegranate trees. We had a Tilo Suite which are the largest. They have beautiful patios with a daybed and two chairs and table, overlooking the pond where ducks land and surrounded completely by red mountains. Views are amazing. One of the best features of the room is the outdoor shower and enclosed day bed for lounging.  Since stargazing is a big activity in the desert here, it is thrilling to take a shower in the evening and watch the stars from the bed, decorated with local weaving.  Alto Atacama has its own stargazing platform, with eight swiveling beds to make viewing easier. Stargazing lectures are available almost every night. This particular part of the world is the number one stargazing and astronomical capital of the planet, with the Canary Islands and Hawaii behind them.

In terms of the room, this has a negative impact as they strive to reduce ambient light. While there are lights scattered about the suite, it can be challenging to pack and find the odd sock under the bed. Rooms are also decorated in local materials, which tend more towards earth tones and less  toward lighter colors.

The whole emphasis at every lodge in the Atacama Desert is on excursions. All properties offer approximately 34 different excursions, led by guides. Maximum group size is around six. The excursions range from the very slow to the extremely arduous. You could easily spend five days here and never walk more than 100 yards, as there is plenty to see and do. The larger emphasis is on hiking, horseback riding, volcano summiting and mountain biking. There is an extensive variety of activities, from archaeological sites to flamingo watching to sundowners in surreal lunar landscapes.  The basic paradigm is similar to an African safari—an excursion in the early morning, resting in the middle of the day, and an excursion in the later afternoon or evening. The Valley of the Moon and the El Tatio geysers excursions are fantastic, and I loved mountain biking in the Devils Gorge —if you are not a novice biker. Just a tasting of a much larger menu, including cultural, geological, and archaeological activities! Which brings me to the next point—acclimatizing.  Since you are at 7,000 feet when you are in the hotels, they will recommend various time frames for some activities in order to acclimatize.  For example, the geyser excursion is at 14,500 feet so you cannot go until your third day there.  I would recommend a minimum stay of three days, and  I could’ve easily stayed five. The process of acclimating is rendered more challenging because this particular desert is the driest place on earth. They recommend drinking tons of water, eating light, avoiding alcohol and any other dehydrating substances for the first day. The altitude and the sun also contribute to quickly seared skin, so constant sunscreen is a must.

I quizzed the guides for info on the other properties as they seem to rotate among them. Awasi is by far the most exclusive, where you are assigned your own guide and your own private driver for the length of your stay.  However it is located in the small town of San Pedro, population 9000, so not as picturesquely sited as some of the others. It caters more to an older US population. Explora has its own stables, so very good for those who are keen on horseback riding.  Tierra Atacama has a sizable Brazilian clientele. The client base at Alto Atacama is mixed—US, UK, Australian, German and Japanese while I was there.

Food and service are a mixed bag at Alto Atacama. They do a wonderful job keeping variety in the food, for example offering an extensive sideboard of salads, canapés, and soup before dinner. The next night might be entirely off a different menu or by the pool. Food ranges from excellent to mediocre, but always plentiful. They were more than happy to accommodate my gluten and dairy allergy with alternates.  Most of the hotels are all inclusive, including cocktails and wine. The same can be said for the service. While the guides were uniformly excellent, the service ranges from superlative to nonexistent. English language ability is similar, from fluent to non-speaking.  So far I have found the same in all the best hotels in Santiago as well.  

Oddly winter is the dry season so there is no snow on the mountains. In summer you will get more snow on the peaks so the views are spectacular, however you may get some rain. In February days were warm and 85 degrees, nights around 50, and windy. Higher altitudes are much colder. With the preceding caveats, I would not hesitate to return to and recommend Alto Atacama.

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Fun Things for Kids in Paris

1.Want your portrait painted? Go to Montmarte, where many of the famous artists lived and have it done by an artist right on the street!

2. Shop for a picnic on the Left Bank on the Rue de Buci around the corner from Hotel D’Aubusson.  You can walk to the Jardin du Luxembourg and sail boats, play tennis, see puppet theatre, and ride ponies

3.Go to Poilane, the famous bread store on the Left Bank on a great shopping street, Rue de Cherche Midi (8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 75006). Ask to take a tour of the ovens in the basement.  It is hot down there! Then try some of the wonderful bread.

4. Shop at the famous department store Samaritaine on 19 Rue de Monnaie.  When you get tired, go to the top for the beautiful view and a snack…you can see all of Paris!

5. Go to the Eiffel Tower as it gets dark – it sparkles!  Take the Ferris Wheel for a really great view at the Place de la Concorde.

6. Check out the prison where Marie Antoinette lived in a tiny cell. You can even see a torture chamber. It is called the Conciergerie and is 1 Quai de l’Horloge.

7. Right near where Marie lived in prison is the Flower and Bird Market. It is on the Ile de la Cité.  Sunday is bird day, and during the week they sell flowers.

8. Have you seen the Hunchback of Notre Dame? Go to the famous church to find the gargoyles.  Don’t forget to look up at the flying buttresses – they hold the church up.  Afterwards, eat ice cream at Berthillon  (29-31 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, 75004 Paris).

9. There is a doll museum in Paris called The Musée de la Poupée (7 Impasse Berthaud, 75003 Paris).  They have dolls that are over 100 years old! Sometimes they teach classes in doll making, too!

10. Travel to Elancourt and check out France Miniature. It’s an outdoor park that has 1:30 scale models of French landmarks like The Chateux in the Lorie and the National soccer stadium with 50,000 tiny spectators, all different.  They also have interactive activities and rides! (The park is currently closed, but re-opens April 1, 2017).

11.  Take the Batobus up and down the Seine. You can get a special pass for it. Get off and buy postcards and souvenirs at the booksellers along the river.

12. Run around the big stone columns, looking like a giant checkerboard, in the Palais Royal.

13. Have hot chocolate at Angelina’s tea salon.  It is on the Right Bank at 226 Rue de Rivoli. Ride the boats on the Seine at night. You can see all the lights of the city, and the Eiffel Tower shines every ten minutes!

14. Shop at the fun Galeries Lafayette department store. While there are now several locations in France, the flagship store is on Boulevard Haussmann in the 9th arrondissement. Sometimes they have free fashion shows!

15. Listen to the music at La Cite de la Musique. You can listen to the various musical instruments at the museum. Nearby there is also the science museum, Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, which has an interactive science center for 5-12 year olds , as well as an IMAX theater, called La Geode, that shows movies on travel, nature, and space.  All of this stuff in in the Parc de la Villette.

16. Eat macaroons – all different flavors – at Laduree.  It is right near the Place de la Madeleine (75 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008).  Afterwards, you can shop for the best chocolate- Maison du Chocolate- on the Rue Faubourg St. Honore.

17. Rollerblading on Friday nights on the streets of Paris. It’s for experienced skaters – careful, they go fast! You might want to watch the Friday night skating and take part in the family skate  on Sunday afternoons.

18. Have tea at the Ritz Hotel on Place Vendome for a special treat.

19. On Sundays, there are informal concerts at the Place des Vosges in the Marais.  Everyone hangs out and listens to the music, or plays on the playground equipment.  If you want to eat and listen, you can pack a picnic or sit outside at Ma Bourgogne.

20.  If you have seen Les Mis, you will know about the underground sewers of Paris.  Even if you have not the seen the show, it is really cool and kind of spooky.

21.  Want to see how the rich people and nobles lived in Paris? Go to the Musee Carnavallet in Marais, or the Musee Jacquemart Andre on the Boulevard Hausman and close to the Galeries Lafayette.

22.  You can also take a tour of the Stade de France, the national stadium.  They have guided tours and exhibitions.  It is on Ligne 13, Saint Denis on the Metro.

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Great Places to Visit in November

November is an in-between travel month with fantastic deals in normally expensive regions.

One of the best places to travel in November is the Caribbean, as opposed to late December, which is hugely busy with prices tripling to accommodate the demand.  My favorite island, St. Barth’s, is normally crazy busy and equally crazy in tariffs.  I love the modest, comfortable, and family run Hotel Village St. Jean.  Their rates start at 170 Euros for a standard room.  November you will have the island to yourself, with locals only in the surf line up and hanging out at Le Select drinking a Ti Punch (a short drink of white rhum agricole, lime, cane syrup, and usually one or two ice cubes).  My favorite beach there is Grande Saline, where clothing is optional towards the end of the beach, a bottle of rose wine and a picnic is a must, and snorkeling is possible near the rocks at the end of the crescent shaped strand.  One of my favorite restaurants is there as well: L’Esprit Salines (please note they do not serve lunch on Wednesdays and Sundays).

Don’t miss out on the kitesurfing and snorkeling at Grand Cul de Sac (http://www.st-barths.com/en/saint-barthelemy-guide/sports-activities-st-barts/kitesurf.html).  If that seems like too much effort, take off your shoes, put your feet in the sand, and enjoy the homemade rum (coconut is my favorite, ginger a bit too weird for me) and delicious pizza at La Glorietta.  Reasonable, a great location, and family friendly.

Remember, St. Barths is not verdant and tropical like St. Lucia and Dominica.  It is a scrubby, hilly island, with its’ own French “je ne sai quoi”.

West Coast dwellers will find it a major pain to get there, but if you are on the East Coast, tray a low cost airline into St. Maarten (like Jet Blue) and then take the ferry or a puddle jumper.

Likewise, I love Hawaii in November.  It is a bit coller, and the days are of course shorter, but the island is quiet and lovely.  Maui has something for everyone - biking, hiking, diving, great food, and diverse scenery.  My favorite area at that time of year in Wailea/Makena, where you can rent a condo https://www.tropicalvillavacations.com) or get an AirBnB.  If you want to splurge try the Four Seasons Maui or The Hotel Wailea, which has no beach access but lovely views and an “Old hawaii” feel to it.  Try your hand at an outrigger canoe, hike up Mt. Haleakala, or snorkel in Turtle Town right off of Makena Beach.  Also, if you happen to be there the first week in November, check out the Made in Maui County Festival!

Myanmar! Yes, now that Myanmar (Burma) is open to the public and the military regime has departed, it is one of my favorite places in South East Asia.  The historic Strand Hotel reopened in November 2016 after a top to bottom renovation. I love the red wicker chairs in the dining room. Many of the old Regency buildings that were left crumbling in past years in downtown Yangon are being restored and cafes and restaurants are opening as well. Have a G and T at the atmospheric bar at the Strand and take a walk around the newly refurbished neighborhood.

You must not leave without taking a cruise up the Irrawaddy River! Cruises are available in all price ranges and itineraries. If you can, try the newest cruise on the River, The Strand Cruise. As you float by, local are going about their daily business cooking, transporting wares to the markets to sell, or visiting the pagodas that dot the landscape. It is a fantastic and relaxing way to intersect with a way of life that has not changed dramatically in hundreds of years.

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Madrid Hotel Reviews: Hotel Unico & Urso Hotel and Spa

Here’s what I like about Hotel Unico:

Great location, fun shopping, very buzzy area. Pretty breakfast room and garden. Nice staff, not always that informed. Nice lounge/library with books to have a coffee or drink in. I liked the juxtaposition of older building and contemporary furnishing.

Here is what I didn’t like:

Took a while to get a cab from there, staff missed a wake-up call, bathroom was gorgeous and huge in marble but didn’t work that well, corner junior suite was fine but décor was boring grey/white/black, not inspired.

Here is what I liked about the Urso Hotel and Spa:

Lovely lobby with Chinoiserie wall paper, pretty breakfast room, nice juxtaposition of old and modern textures. Room ceilings were very high, room was spacious and well lit. Pop up buzzy restaurant. Very close to excellent tapas bars. Staff was young and seemed well informed.

Here is what might be an issue:

First timers to Madrid might not “get” the neighborhood, possibly better to place them in Salamanca or the Museum Triangle.

I WOULD ABSOLUTELY RECOMMEND AND USE BOTH HOTELS DEPENDING ON THE CLIENTS.

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Review -Terranea Spa Bungalow Suites

I love the spa bungalow suites at Terranea. World class views of the ocean on both sides, sunrise and sunset views nine months of the year, and a gorgeous deck with striped couches and a fire place for foggy nights or if a bit of wind comes up. The full kitchen is a designer’s dream—Fisher and Paykel refrigerators, Cuisinart coffee makers, and in the living room are baskets full of yoga mats and weights for fitness buffs. The suites are cozy, Mediterranean, and ecologically sustainable. Outside the varied plant life is seen only in two ecosystems—on the peninsula itself, and twenty two miles across the sea on the Catalina Islands, the two separated millions of years ago. I love this property for extended family reunions and babymoons. Johnny Depp shot “Pirates of the Caribbean” two coves over from the property—perhaps he would like to come back?

Located one hour from Los Angeles and about thirty minutes from LAX, Terranea sits on a point on the Palos Verdes Peninsula that used to house the amusement park Marineland until 1987. Happily, the wait staff no longer wear mermaid outfits with a large dangling tail. Nelson, one of the dining venues, sit as close to the water’s edge as you can get from the cliffs without getting wet. They were allowed to build that close as the footprint of Marineland was already in existence, so you get the best sunsets ever! Sit at the picnic tables at Nelsons, order a specialty margarita, their fabulous avocado dip, and put your feet in the sand. Desserts include s’mores for five under the stars, and sea salt caramel parfait made on property with their own sea salt that they harvest! After dinner, go back to your deck, light a fire, and enjoy stargazing before retiring to your bedroom overlooking the sea.

The lobby is decorated with original paintings from the Palos Verdes “plein air” painting school, which gives an authentic taste of the peninsula. Don’t leave without watching the whales from November to April, or taking a kayak out from a nearby cove—you may see a dolphin or two, or at the very least a sea lion!

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Packing Tips For A Two Week Trip to the East Coast

1. Start with a list two weeks in advance and start putting out your clothes on a chair, couch, or bed so you can see all of them.  Gradually begin to remove extraneous garments as the days go by.

2. Pack around two colors - for example, navy and black.

3. All cosmetics and personal items should be sample size, easily available at drug stores or super markets.

4. Pack cosmetics and medicines in mesh bags so you can see what is in them.  Then put them on the outside pocket of the suitcase for easier access in case they leak.

5. Pack your heaviest items-usually shoes, near the wheels.  It is easier to roll and they don’t crush the other garments.  You can also put the shoes in shoe bags.

6. Stuff your shoes with small items - undergarments, socks, or jewelry.

7. Put jewelry in zip lock bags so they don’t tangle.  Keep casual and more formal separate.

8. Roll your clothes instead of folding them.  Easier to see and you get more in that way.

9. Put your better clothes on top folded.

10. If you do this, you will have extra room.  So you can add a shawl or special sporting gear if need be.

11. Most importantly, anything you forget or run out of can be purchased at your destination or the airports.

Here’s an example packing list for a two week trip.

1. Three pairs of shoes

2.  Two light cotton sweaters

3.  Two cotton dresses, one long, one short

4.  One pair casual work out pants

5.  Four pairs undergarments

6.  Two pairs of pants, one black, one denim

7.  One short sleeved t-shirt

8.  Three sleeveless blouses

9.  One long sleeved blouse

10.  One jacket

11.  One scarf

12.  On nightgown/set of PJ’s

13.  Jewelry

Total:  12 outfits at least.

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TRAVEL TIPS: MAUI

Best restos:

Mamas Fish House in Paia, great views, expensive and a bit touristy. Go early to watch the wind surfers and kite boarders. Explore the bohemian town of Paia. Joes in Wailea above the tennis courts there and Strattons in Wailea at the golf course. Check current reviews as the chefs change. Joes has great martinis and meatloaf. David Paul's Island grill in Lahaina. Also Longhis in Lahaina for breakfast and Bloodys. Don't miss the Sunday services there for the Tongans and Samoan community. Amazing singing. On the way is the outdoor aquarium in Maa'lea harbor. The Monkeypod by Merriman in Kihei. They also may still own the Hailemaile General Store upcountry. Upcountry is also fun to drive through as the ecosystem is so different from the coastline--on the way to the volcano Haleakala there you may get fog and will pass farms growing the South African flower the proteus. If you don't want to get up early in the morning to bike down Haleakala, a helicopter ride will give you a bird's eye view of the crater and the diversity of the island. Best snorkeling:

Turtle Town also known as Chang's Beach. South of Wailea by five minutes. Further south is Makena Beach and little Makena. Little Makena is nudist and has good snorkeling. Walk over the hill to your right as you enter. It tends to be crowded. Honolua Bay is great for snorkeling. Twenty minutes north of Lahaina. Also Black Rock across from the Sheraton in Honolua Bay . Good drives:

Take the road past Makena to La Perouse Bay. Good snorkeling up and down there. You may also be able to swim and see spinner dolphins there. Great old church and graveyard marked with a Historical marker with King Kamehameha. A great drive is to Hana on the windward side of Maui past Paia but really far for one day. There you will have the Seven Sacred Pools and Charles Lindbergh's grave. Possibly my favorite drive is the one around the backside of the island from Hana into Wailea via the upcountry winery Tedeschi. It is definitely better done with four wheel drive. There are a number of beginner surf spots in Kihei near Wailea and rentals nearby. They are at the south end of a large park. It is the cove at Kalama Beach Park. Could be crowded but nice and easy. The two major boat snorkeling expeditions are to the deserted island of Molokini and to the island of Lanai. The first goes out of the harbor at Maa'lea, the second out of Lahaina. They are both early am departures. These are full day or half day expeditions. You can also "snuba" on these boats which is a good way to get under water and see some great tropical fish without learning to dive. It is a combo of diving and snorkeling and very safe.

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TRAVEL TIPS

1.     Always carry medications with you on your flight, not in the suitcase. In flight personnel are not allowed to administer any form of medication. I have gotten an infection on a long international flight and it was not fun. That is the bad news. The good news is that Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris has an excellent medical clinic.

2.    Consider traveling off season to places like Paris that would normally break the budget. I love going in early January-seasonal decorations are still up, there are no tourists, it is oyster season, and the sales are on! Yes, it is cold, but that is what puffy coats are for. Ditto London immediately before December 25-the tourists have cleared out, locals are ice-skating and dining out, and the décor is spectacular.

3.    Never travel to Hawaii or Cabo San Lucas at festive season. Never. Too many tourists and children, restaurants are overwhelmed with reservations, and the weather is not that great. PS Everything is top dollar at that time as well.

4.    Don’t order cappuccino after dinner in Italy. Only order an espresso. They don’t drink coffee with milk after a meal, and you will force the poor restaurant to work overtime and irritate your companions.

5.    Canada is underestimated as an international destination.  Spectacular hiking, birding, railroad journeys, and foodie heaven. Vancouver for example, is rated one of the best Food Cart cities in North America! When you are tempted to spend too much money to travel to Europe in the summer, go to Montreal instead.  This tip was not paid for by tourism Canada.

6.    Always carry a large shawl on the plane. It not only will protect you from the wind when you arrive, it can double on the plane as a blanket/back support/pillow/tent if your neighbor annoys you.

7.    Leave those stilettos at home if you are walking on cobblestone streets. You must have shoes with a flat surface like wedges, platforms, or plain old flats. Forget trying to look like Audrey Hepburn in Rome. You will fall over.

8.    Don’t wear a fanny pack unless you are on safari and only animals will see you. Ever.

9.    When you are taking trains in Italy, be forewarned that there may be no porters or trolleys to carry your suitcase when you embark or disembark. Travel light or ask an assistant to meet you at your destination. Many companies offer this service, and travel agents are happy to arrange it for you.

10. Allow enough time at your last European destination to turn in your tax forms. Many countries offer “VAT,” or tax refunds for non-European Union members for purchases over 100 Euros. This will not include antiques or items purchased from street vendors. You must get a receipt from the store and turn it in at a special kiosk at your last destination airport.  First you check in, get a boarding pass to prove you are flying that day, and keep your luggage with you in case they need to see the items. Then you go to the VAT kiosk and they will give you cash back or credit the tax to your credit card. Then you go back and check your baggage. So if you need two hours ahead of time for the flight, add another thirty minutes.

11.  Some airports are dreadful, and some are great. I hate LAX, JFK, Miami, Heathrow in London, and Rome. Munich, Singapore and Amsterdam are fabulous and user friendly, so if you can transit through those airports to catch another flight, do so.

12.  It would seem obvious, but don’t carry a handbag without multiple zippers. You should have a zipper on the top, and an inside zipper as well to prevent theft. If you must tote along that Louis Vuitton or Gucci bag, don’t bring one of those dumb ones that has only drawstrings and no firm top closures. And ALWAYS have a copy of your passport in your luggage.

13.  I have traveled with friends who wear a ton of jewelry and are totally comfortable. I am not; I take the subway in London and the Metro in Paris, both user friendly and safe by US standards. I just don’t feel comfortable with Great Aunt Agatha’s diamond ring on, nor would I at home on public transportation. I just don’t. So travel abroad is a great time to wear costume pieces or buy some there. Dubrovnik, for example, has great silver jewelry.  

14. If you arrive at Terminal Five at London’s Heathrow Airport and are transiting to another destination but are still on THE SAME AIRLINE, be forewarned you will have to go through security and allow enough time. Give yourself two hours even if it seems crazy. Don’t do what I did and have to take a later flight to Madrid in a mad dash, leaving my IPad in London. Again that is the bad news, and the good news is that Heathrow’s Lost and Found is polite, professional, and responsive.

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Coworth Park Dorchester Collection

Stayed at Coworth Park enroute from Gatwick to Heathrow as a way of avoiding the hideous airport hotels. Absolutely lovely. Top notch service, facilities, and spa. 240 acres of Parkland for hiking, biking, playing polo, and enjoying the spa and gardens. Only 20 minutes from Heathrow and Windsor. The main house is cozy reimagined English style in shades of green, brown, and white. Lots of wood and leather give it an English country home meets Ferragamo feel. Upstairs, our room number 17, was extremely comfortable with a four poster bed, fireplace, and marble bathroom with copper tub and separate shower. 

For families, honeymooners, or in summer, you might want to try the stable rooms. About a five minute walk from the main house and near the casual and very charming dining venue called The Barn. Rooms have terraces. All designed differently so make sure you like the decor. I did not love the tartan look in the Gardeners Cottage. Bothy Cottage was charming but dark. Some look like duplexes. 

Spa is world class with large heated indoor pool, fitness room, steam room, and one of those insane showers that change colors and have six different shower nozzles. Gorgeous relaxation room with a view of an herb garden. Spa is modern with plants growing on the roof. 

Lovely gardens roses, parterre, lakes, walled water garden and modern sculpture scattered throughout. 

Polo and equestrian activities are huge. Golf nearby. They also offer duck herding whatever that is. Swans and geese are wandering about which is messy but picturesque. 

Drawing rooms, bar, and formal dining room in the main house. Very light and airy - think Hamptons in Berkshire England. Service is fabulous throughout. Great way to end a trip or start with a long weekend to recover from jet lag. 

Most clients are English down from London or from the US. Posh without being stuffy.

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Slovenia Antiq Palace Hotel, Ljubljana

Flew into Ljubljana (LJU) on Adria airways from Zurich. Flights are plentiful out of European capitals. Tiny airport, no customs, so could not be simpler. 

Stayed at a brilliantly located Small Luxury Hotel called Antiq Palace and Spa. I would say spa is overstating it slightly--2 massage rooms, but perfectly acceptable.

Our room was Suite 7- absolutely enormous with full dining room, kitchen, and living room. It overlooked a very pleasant and welcoming garden downstairs in the courtyard.  The music academy is next door so when the students are practicing it is like having a free concert. The room was oddly decorated in quasi antiques and oversized couches with black flocked fabric. Bizarre. Since it is located in a real mansion, the doors and door jams are uneven so it is easy to trip--my husband ended up marking the doorways with luggage tags, which was a great invention. There were two bathrooms one with a pod like shower which was moldy and squirted water all over the floor. In other words this is a three-star hotel in a five-star location and in a fabulously historic building. Great breakfast in a charming white vaulted room overlooking two garden spaces. 

You can walk to anything from the hotel including the historic castle on the hill above, accessible via foot or cable car. Nearby are terrific restaurants like Vavas ' Or and Juliaja. Those two are right next door to each other, and there is a gourmet resto at the castle called Strella. Terrific wine bars as well like Tabar and Movio. Food and wine are a driving force in Ljubljana.

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Istrian Peninsula,Croatia

The Istrian Peninsula is ground zero for truffles--three kinds of black, one white--and artisanal olive oil tasting. It also has wine galore with the white grape type of Malvasia, one of the dominant white ones, and the Teran grape, an outstanding red varietal. 

We stayed in Rovinj ( pronounced Roh-veen-yuh), a charming resort town with strong Venetian historical, culinary, and architectural influences. Ideally located to wine taste, bike, and see the Roman amphitheater in Pula, one hour away. Also close to the touristic but still lovely art village of Groznjan. No idea how to pronounce that--grows-née--yan?? Great wine tasting lunch at the four star idyllic hotel called San Rocco. Again, a well-known chef serving Istrian wine with each course. Think the Tuscan coast-- vineyards, rolling hillsides, and hilltop villages. 

Our hotel was the five-star Monte Mulini. Room décor, four star (what I call international anonymous), great huge bathroom with Molton Brown products, pretty terrace with views on to the surrounding bay. Two excellent restaurants--one fine dining and one casual. Several pools and a small rocky beach. Really good service. Hotel architecture is utterly lacking in a sense of place or history--white and bland modern style--but definitely worth several nights. Loads to do for kids. Hotel offers free olive oil and wine tasting by reservation. The upscale resto will design a fine dining degustation for guests with local only wine. (by this time my husband only wanted pizza). Fabulous food. Five minute drive from town on a secluded bay. 

Great "WOW" restaurant with water literally lapping at your feet is the Puntalina. Very casual and good seafood. Perfect to have a sunset drink as the sea crashes directly below.

Rovinj

Pula Arena

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Idrija, Slovenia

Forgive me but I may spell all of this wrong. My knowledge of the Slavic languages is limited to "to your health" and " bee go away" the last phrase very important while eating. 

After Lake Bled we continued on through rivers and waterfalls to Lake Bohinj and then Idrija. Great pre-alpine and karst scenery and pristine valleys where you can bike on paths for bikers, only through fields of wildflowers, trout streams, vegetable gardens, and goats. 

Idrija is known for its lacemaking and historical Mercury mine, a UNESCO world heritage site. Very interesting ---don't do it if you are claustrophobic. Then on to the Relais Chateaux Kendov Dvorec. Very charming Alpine style foodie haven. Great views from lounge chairs set out in front. Rooms are of the cluttered Victorian style with heavy furniture, geraniums in the window, and adequate bathrooms. Unbelievable chef-- smoked trout, mushroom soup, seafood risotto, veal with rosemary potatoes, sorbet, and that was just one meal with different wines from Slovenia with every course, including the famous Slovenian "orange" wine. It is a form of Chardonnay which is delicious and not overly oaked once you get over the color.

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Ljubljana to Lake Bled, Slovenia

Ljubljana is a charming city.  Truly fairytale; Think Disneyland without the churros and more bars, or Switzerland minus astronomical pricing. Lots of great hiking in the area, superb fly fishing (I saw some monster trout), and terrific biking and rafting. 

 The city itself is completely pedestrian and has a magnificent collection of art nouveau and turn of the century buildings. The market is also fun. Running most days until early afternoon,  it’s a great place to mingle with the locals or to buy fresh produce and local or imported flowers. 

The old town is centered on the river with cafes and bars lining all sides. You can easily bike ride through the Old Town which is fun as well. Again the wine and food scene is very active, and many waiters will do wine pairings with excellent local sparkling or still wines. 

Lake Bled can be easily done as a short day trip, or you can stay at one of the many hotels there. We stayed at Villa Bled, an easy ten minute walk from the small town, and beautifully situated right on the lake with a view of the island monastery. The hotel has its own dock where you can paddle board to the island, kayak, or take one of the traditional boats oared by local boatmen. (14 Euros round trip)

The Villa is a monolithic establishment that looks like it stepped out of a movie of 50s socialism. As my husband said, "It looks like everyone just left for the Yalta conference." The room was a lake view suite that was cavernous and spartanly furnished. Bathroom was old fashioned and adequate. The views overlooking the lake to the Bled Castle and into the hills are amazing. Some rooms have terraces. The service and cuisine are superb. Definitely four star but perfectly acceptable. Great for kids due to locale and activities. 

In town there is supposedly a five star, the Toplice, but it sure didn't look like a five star to me compared to an Aman or the Four Seasons. Across the street from that hotel is a very fun cozy resto called the Peglez'n. Means something like "iron" and has very homey decor and good food. They also list all allergens on the menu which is helpful.

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Hotel Review - Hotel and Spa Rosa Alpina, Dolomites

Rosa Alpina: This was my favorite hotel we stayed in. So comfy, so chic, so fun, with lovely views up to the mountains. Located in the Italian Dolomites, two hours’ drive from Venice, in the tiny town of San Cassiano, not far from Cortina. The town was notable in WW1 as the last frontier between the Austrian and Italian armies. The hotel is rustic chalet chic, with wood floors and paneling in the room, not dark, but light shades of wood painted in a variety of cream colors. The bottom floor has a small gift shop, bar with singer in the evening, and large breakfast room. Their gastronomic restaurant next door St. Hubertus is a two star Michelin, with incredibly innovative food, looks like sculpture; sourced only from local farms-strictly locavore. It actually tastes good too, and again, they were willing to accommodate dietary restrictions. Upstairs I was in Room 130 which had a porch/loft area and tiny garden. I loved it. The room drapery is done in velvet, in tones of white and cream—an interesting choice for a ski resort with everyone clomping around in muddy boots, but gorgeous and minimalist without being stark. The shower is a combo hamman/light therapy, which is super fun but with a bewildering amount of knobs and buttons. I just kept poking things until the lights changed. There are fireplaces in the room which the staff replenishes daily with fire starter and kindling, and a large stock of wood under a brown leather bench. Very pretty, very mountain appropriate, and stylish. There is a small spa in the basement, and I had an excellent therapist. They also have a swimming pool on that same floor, work out room that is well-equipped, boot storage and warmers, ski tuning, kid’s room with games and toys, lockers and restrooms, and a garden outside with more kids activities. The whole resort in winter is designed for kids—snow parks, tobogganing, jumps……….In summer you can hike, mountain bike, and do WW1 tours. The property has a hut, the “refugio”, up a mountain where you can hike to and spend the night. Of course since it is a Relais and Chateaux property they bring you great food and you can barbeque. I believe it is open summer and winter. Very romantic—Kate and Tom stayed there. The village is tiny, so if you are not outdoorsy or restless forget it, but the bustle of Cortina and shopping are 10-25  minutes away, depending on which town you go to. The owner, Hugo Pizzinini is very hands on—he took me skiing and stole the gloves from the receptionist. I think he might have given me his parka as well. His family has been there for generations, and you can feel that in the hotel. The joke is that the only one who is not his cousin is the local priest and they are working on that. 

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The meditation pool at the Villa F in Venice

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Hotel Review - Bauer Il Palazzo, Venice

I loved this hotel after I stayed here. I was totally put off at the beginning because of the Mussolini style architecture in the lobby, sort of large and blocky, and the halls seemed cavernous and impersonal to me. However, my room, 553, was immense, and nicely decorated in tones of mahogany with a tremendous view of the Grand Canal. Not at all fancy and glorious like the Gritti Palace, but still very nice. Currently the lobby of the Il Palazzo is closed, as Prada across the street is doing works and spreading dust everywhere. The terrace on the 7th floor for Il Palazzo, Settimo Cielo, (7th Heaven) is glorious with a wonderful breakfast buffet and three resident seagulls—which two very obliging waitresses get rid of when they become too aggressive. The view from up there is tremendous—one of the highest places to eat in Venice. The staff uniformly was really lovely, from the front desk to the porters/bellmen. The problem as I see it is that there are 11 different room types, and within those room types there are variations, so you never have any consistency. My colleague’s room was immediately below me, totally different, with a terrace, much smaller, and had wear and tear on the carpet stairs. I would definitely use a very qualified agent to book this. I had complaints from lovely clients that the staff was great but their room was shabby, proving this point. Food in the main dining room was excellent, not too elaborate, but delicious and beautifully presented. There is also a lovely terrace for drinks/dinner right on the Grand Canal. Again, not nearly as ornamental or as over the top as the Gritti, but still lovely. If there are mobility issues, the Bauer Il Palazzo is an excellent choice as you don’t have to cross any bridges. Three minute walk to St. Mark’s Square, with a free shuttle all day long to their spa located at the Bauer Il Palladio across the channel on Guidecca. 

Venice at sunset from the Bauer Il Palazzo.