Sumida-gawa Hanabi
Japanese Word of the Day: Hanabi - fireworks
Kâs birthday falls on the weekend of a huge fireworks festival in Tokyo. And by huge I mean HUGE. Nearly 1 million people line the banks of the Sumida River and surrounding streets in Tokyo to watch two groups of fireworks experts launch their best and brightest.
We went last year while my mom was visiting and wound up rained out, huddled together with a bunch of strangers under a parking garage awning for an hour or so before making our way into what remains the most packed subway station I have Ever seen.
This year we thought we had it down. I knew that people showed up early in the day to mark their spots with tarps and tape. You see here, even in an enormous and populous city like Tokyo, thereâs no âmove your feet lose your seatâ policy. You marked your place, you can leave for the rest of the day and come back to find your area unmolested. Bearing that in mind, we made reservations in Tokyo for the night before and I woke up at 4:30am to head down to the river to mark our spot.Â
Now we had acquired an enormous tarp just for this purpose but of course I forgot it at home and was forced to run around the night before trying to track down an acceptable replacement. In the hotel gift shop I found noren or Japanese style hanging curtain panels. I got the cheapest pair available. They were decorated with a huge Lucky Cat. Curtains in hand I went down to the river and wandered around for an hour in the already 85 degree heat with 80% humidity (real feel 93 degrees according to my phone) at 5am! Many of the spots had been marked off the night before and there were a fair number of people who had camped out and made a party of it the night before. Nonetheless, I found the perfect spot, taped my curtains to the ground and returned to the hotel to sleep.
Secure in the knowledge that we had our spot already reserved we let the kids swim all day and generally just hung around the hotel. Around five we headed for the river. Now there were two subway stations pretty close to where I had laid out our spot.The station we headed to was on the opposite side of the river but even with crossing the bridge it was still going to be closer. Good plan right?
Yeah, they close the bridges a few hours before the show starts. So there we are wandering around the streets; hot, sweaty and miserable; completely cut off from the spot that I had gotten up at the crack of dawn to claim. Iâm going to be honest with youâŠI was in tears. It was a disaster.
We ended up following the crowd down the street catching little bits of the fireworks over the tops of the buildings as they started to go off. At some point the crowd came to a stop, completely clogging the street and blocking our way. Some people sitting on a huge tarp nearby kept eying us and then one of the women jumped up and came over to ask us to join them. We politely declined but they insisted. They welcomed us into their group. We all shared snacks and wound up with a picnic of chips, cheese sticks, edamame and cake. It was a perfect spot, we got a fantastic view of the fireworks right in between a couple of buildings. K cracked everyone up by screaming and cheering and clapping at all of the fireworks, and wandering around trying to steal everyones food.
It turned out to be a pretty fun night. Hooray for the kindness of strangers! I hope whoever found and eventually took home our curtains feels the same way.Â
The next post is going to be awhile in coming. Iâm in the process of moving my little blog over to a location that I think it will be easier for family and friends to get to. Hope you guys like the upcoming changes!











