Surviving Argentina

@jsdstam-blog

Travelling to Argentina, to complete research for a book, will create more hurdles to overcome

97 posts

This is my last post from Argentina ....tonight I am going to have my last steak and Malbec, cry into a couple of caipirinhas and finish off with a late night tango lesson. This evocative tango song is called "You'll always return to Buenos Aires". It is about a bewitching, romantic city which having visited you must return as the nostalgia is so great it could kill you. The accompanying collage of pics reflects much of what I have seen during my time here. Adios Argentina it has been a blast.

Argentina

I will not miss.... 1) the barking dogs 2) calle Florida, the oxford street of BA 3) little else I WILL miss 1) the trees and green of the country 2) the outdoor cafe life in Palermo (weather has been good to me) 3) the meat 4) the people who despite their poor economy have great dignity and a joie de vivre. 5) the skilled if crazy taxi drivers 6) the shopkeepers and stallholders that are patient and helpful, let you touch and try the goods and are never pushy for a sale 7) the lack of begging on the streets 8) the friendship and support of those who have helped me in BA, Monte Buey, Tucuman, Alpachiri and Carlos Casares with a special mention for my translators/fixers Pamela and Fany. 9) the mystery of the tango 10) oh and have I never mentioned the women ..all seven for every man in BA. Argentina ..if only you were closer I would be back so soon

Winding down

Today I am shopping, packing and enjoying my final tour of cafés and bars in Palermo. Instead of thinking ahead to what I had to do in Argentina I am now thinking of home....which then made me think of postcards of which I have sent none. This blog is my one big postcard.!!

Various images Almost my last post

Plaza de Mayo At the far end of the plaza is Casa Rosada from where Eva Peron made her speeches. In front is a white monument around which the mothers March I'm Thursdays. The crosses in the foreground and the lower picture is in memory of those who died in the Falklands war. This area has almost permanent political demonstrations.

MOTHERS OF THE PLAZA DE MAYO During the military dictatorship 1976-83 many anti govt individual were taken from the streets and their homes and "disappeared". The mothers of these persons started to demonstrate years ago for information about there children. Over 30 years have past and some of the mothers have since died. However the remaining mothers and their families and supporters still meet and walk around the plaza de mayo every Thursday at 3.30pm.

Antares

Well I did venture out tonight despite the rain. One has to eat. Back in my by now well known area of Palermo and I pass Antares a modern bar heaving and even though it's Thursday and raining there are still at least 10 waiting for a table. As I passed on previous nights there might have been as many as twenty or thirty blocking the pavement as they wait. It is apparently a new cool place to go for the young portenos. For me the interest is that it is a microbrewery producing seven ales ranging from 5-10% in strength. I work my way to the gate lady and as I am on my own she is able to take me directly to a place at the bar. I opt for the 6.6% IPA, very good... Another pint and some ribs and fries and I am set for the night. This place must have 150 covers, the noise reminds me of New York bars and Antares would not be out of place in any major capital city.

Thunder and lightning

As I write this a storm is breaking the humidity. With no more research on my list my adrenaline is fading and tiredness setting in. That is not to say I want to leave this country to which I have become so attached but leave I must. In 48 hours I will be in the air, homeward bound!!

Today I pounded the streets of downtown BA visiting addresses frequented by my John Campbell's. I was only partially successful as most of the buildings have not survived. However it did give me the opportunity to see and visit some old bars and cafés. Above clockwise is the famous Tortoni cafe opened in 1858, where I had lunch, the el Federal cafe where I had coffee in the morning and a lovely old restaurant situated on the ground floor of an old mansion house block near Parque Lezama.

Adieu

Last night I had to say goodbye to Pamela, my guide, translator and ms fixit. Without her help and resourcefulness my discoveries in Monte Buey, Tucuman and Alpachiri would not have been possible. Over dinner in El Matterello, a great italian restaurant in Palermo, she continued to teach me about BA and the Argentine. It has been a wonderful journey for me and Pamela entered into the spirit of trying to help this mad Inglese track down anything that might help for the book.

Colonia Old church, house and car

Colonia

Ok so here's the deal. People in BA rave about the place because a) it's safer b) it's quiet and c) it's old However from my point of view and remember I visited midweek 1) the town is split into two the first 2/3 from the port is rubbish. The last 1/3, once past a certain crossroad is the historic part 2) it has bars and restaurants with live musicians singing tacky songs and then trying to sell their CD's, plus some shops selling the usual. 3) as the prices are higher in the historic part it is devoid of locals, no food shops, post office, newsagents etc. therefore no atmosphere 4) the old bit doesn't matter to me as we have old in Europe eg lovely French or Italian villages centuries old with a butcher, baker, etc and locals living in sync with tourists It is apparently heaving at weekends but not sure that would add to its attraction. Sorry Colonia but you don't have my vote.

Looking longingly back across the River Plate to BA from Colonia Bit like I felt!!

Another coincidence!!

Sitting have a long lunch in disappointing Colonia (more later). On one side an American guy is boring his fat polyester trousered wife to death as he expounds continuously about the tax structures of large US corporations. Some holiday !! In front of me a lady of a certain age sitting alone is chomping through a plate of meat and a litre of beer when she is interrupted by an Oz couple who she must have met on the boat. They natter away as the poor ladies food gets colder and colder and I recognise a strong afrikaanse twang to her English. Finally she is able to finish her meal, the US couple waddle off and I start talking to her. She is a pathologist at Peterborough General Hospital !!!

My host's home This is the house built by John A in the English style, plus my guest bedroom and an enormous oak in the grounds.

The gate from within the rear patio where stands a small well, the front terrace and sunset on the estate.

Estancia La Corona The original estancia above with the barred windows. The estancia was sympathetically extended around 1900 and remains the same today. It is owned by Jock's second cousin who gave me a guided tour inside...it is vast.

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