Better than ever.
Better than ever.
“Coffee has never been better than today”. I’ve heard this phrase being used few times, in talks and competitions. When I heard this phrase being used, I reluctantly agreed, as personally, I would compare the quality of coffees available, the transparency on the farm, the overall experience with coffee to previous years. There were visible improvements, in roasting to extraction of coffees in shops and roasteries, our understanding on what we do vastly increased, such as importance of water and grind distribution. I see movements of roasters roasting lighter, to showcase the characteristic of the coffee’s origin, process or variety. The improvements on our end has in no doubt, increased the quality and quantity of quality beverage being served globally, which is a good thing. On the other hand, when I think about the the quality grown from the farm, yes, there has been improvements on drying, we know African beds are better than patios or guardiolas, carrying our fermentation is better in tiles than concrete, we know paying the pickers by day than amount of cherries picked will improve the amount of ripe cherries being picked and processed. The improvements that were had over the last 5 years, had massive impact on quality of the greens, but I believe we’ve hit a dilemma. Our knowledge on the process of roasting and brewing has improved considerably, even though its little, we do have grasp on what we can do to maximise positive flavours in the cup. We can argue that we have more coffees scoring 87 or higher compared to 5 years ago, whilst famers knowledge on processing and drying increased linearly with our knowledge on roasting and brewing, one thing that has stalled is communicating feedback back to the farmers. How can a farmer who produced 86 points jump to 88, then 90?
This was a dilemma I faced when I was talking to my good friend and farmer Jorge Raul Raviera, of Finca Santa Rosa in El Salvador. After using his coffee in competition, which I loved, he asked me how he can improve for next year’s production, and I couldn’t really give him any feedback. The only feedback a farmer gets is a stupid coffee scoring system which needs vast improvements, and its a subject of its own, a score of 88, when the cherry has been off the tree barely 2 months does not translate the overall quality and the swings of quality the roasters will experience from 3-9 months off tree, and this doesn’t really tell farmer what he or she should do to improve their score, whilst famers know what type of fertiliser they need to use, they don’t know how it impacts cup quality, and there are probably handful of green buyer around the world who knows how different types of fertilisers will have direct impact on cup quality. Whilst we have good understanding what’s happening in the cup, we cannot relate that to the farm practises and I think this is a huge gap that needs filling.
Current feedback system from the roaster/green buyer isn’t effective as it should be, who contacts their farm, or importer on the changes in quality throughout the usage of that coffee? Should there be a guideline by CQI on how to effectively correspond feedback to farmers, instead of green buyers going to farms and telling famers what they should do, without any clear factual evidence that it would increase their coffee quality? I’ve seen and heard farms benefit from this, and some, unfortunately not so much. For me, it was an eye opening experience, where my knowledge on roasting and extraction didn’t help Jorge much. Where I do believe coffee quality has gotten better, but if we want to continue saying ‘it has been better than ever’, establishing a language that will benefit both end of the chain needs to be in place.










