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@livefromkenya-blog
I talked with designers and staff of some of Trinidad's hottest bands, as well as prominent traditional mas makers about carnival's evolution, both the good and bad. Let's just say the contemporary masquerade ruffles more than a few feathers. Its growing popularity worldwide has some worried Trinidad carnival is losing what makes it distinctly Trinidadian.
Feliz día de independencia mis panameños también desde @TeamSoca y Live From Kenya! 🇵🇦 No puedo esperar a visitar #Panamá el próximo año. ☺️
Happy Independence Day #Dominica! With love from Live From Kenya and the @teamsoca family! 🇩🇲🇩🇲🇩🇲 #Repost To all our Dominican Followers. Happy 37 years of Independence as Dominica continues to rebuild on strength and perseverance. #teamsoca
Guyana's Ministry of the Presidency revealed the 50th anniversary logo ahead of the country's 50 year independence in 2016. "Fifty years of pride, zeal and strength."
The only difference between the Haitians and the Dominicans is a piece of cloth called a flag that has been used by our open enemies for centuries to keep the overwhelming majority of the human family divided.
Vladimir Muhammad, Nation of Islam Representative for the Dominican Republic
During the #JusticeorElse #MillionManMarch, Nation of Islam representatives from #Haiti and the #DominicanRepublic stood together to declare that they are one people, separated only by colonization. They denounced both governments' attempts to spew division and hate between them and called on the Dominican people to end anti-black immigration policies that deport Dominicans of #Haitian ancestry. 🇭🇹🇩🇴
#BlackLivesMatter means #CaribbeanLivesMatter. The #JusticeorElse march features speakers drawing attention to the plight of Caribbean nationals seeking reparations from European nations responsible for slavery, and denationalization efforts by the Dominican Republic against black Dominicans primarily of #Haitian descent. Winston Merchant, of #Antigua says he's here to show support, and the #JusticeorElse March is a wake up call to all black people globally to be aware of each other and the disenfranchisement black people around the world face. "We're each other's keeper," he says. "From America to the Caribbean, there's no excuse not to know about the problems we all face."
Check out my latest piece for Global Post on recovery and relief efforts in #Dominica following tropical storm Erika which caused substantial flooding and landslides that killed at least 20. Could climate change in the Caribbean be to blame?
Coup or Cover Up?
“At 6 p.m. this afternoon, the government of Trinidad and Tobago was overthrown. The Prime Minister and members of the cabinet are under arrest. We are asking everybody to remain calm. The revolutionary forces are commanded to control the streets.” - Yasin Abu Bakr, July 27, 1990
Twenty-five years ago this month, more than 100 members of the Muslim militant group, Jamaat al Muslimeen, stormed the parliament and television headquarters of Trinidad and Tobago in an attempt to overthrow the government. Led by Yasin Abu Bakr, the takeover is known as the coup attempt of 1990. Several parliamentarians and Prime Minister A.N.R. Robinson were held hostage while Abu Bakr claimed to negotiate a transition of power with the army. After six days of a state of emergency, looting and martial law, the Muslimeen surrendered on August 1st.
The failed coup resulted in 24 deaths and millions of dollars in damage. Muslimeen members were tried for treason but an amnesty agreement in exchange for his surrender meant Yasin Abu Bakr remains a free man today.
On Friday, Yasin Abu Bakr stood before a crowd of supporters and onlookers in Port of Spain’s Woodford Square to proclaim what he says is the real reason behind the coup. The story has been told before, but this time he implicated prominent ministers by name. He alleges that months before the failed coup, a police officer by the name of Bernadette James approached him, fearing for her life and seeking protection after witnessing several governmental officials and parliamentarians trafficking cocaine at the V.I.P lounge of the country’s airport.
Days later, James was shot and killed. She was the sole victim of what was reported as a freak accident during a police exercise. However the circumstances surrounding her death led many to believe she was murdered.
Having knowledge of James’ meeting with him, Abu Bakr alleges the police force and government officials involved then plotted his assassination and a takedown of the Muslimeen. Therefore, according to Abu Bakr, the coup was both self defense from government force and a tactic to bring those responsible for James’ death to justice.
25 Years Later: Why Does It Matter?
Yasin Abu Bakr is still the leader of the Jamaat al Muslimeen (Society of Muslims) and the U.S. government has closely monitored the group for suspected ties to drug trafficking, gun walking and terrorism.
But Abu Bakr is also widely regarded as an influential voice in the Muslims street gang currently engaged in violent battles with its rivals, Rasta City. Both gangs are believed to work with cartels in funneling illegal guns and narcotics into Trinidad. Abu Bakr denies any connection to the Muslim gang and the Jamaat al Muslimeen. Here are excepts from his speech Friday addressing both gangs:
Abu Bakr on the Muslims:
“There are many young people who have pronounced themselves as Muslim. They do not belong to the Jamaat al Muslimeen. They do the very same thing that the Rasta City do. They sell drugs. And they say they are Muslims to get the cover of Jamaat al Muslimeen. Well today I have said it publicly: they do not belong to Jamaat al Muslimeen and they have no protection whatsoever from Jamaat al Muslimeen.”
Message to Rasta City:
“You foolish, stupid men. Calling yourselves Rasta City. How can you have a city when you don’t have a country?”
In the last five years, Trinidad experienced a nationwide curfew due to violence, mysterious shipments of narcotics unclaimed at the port, corruption scandals of prominent ministers and the assassination of the country’s top prosecutor. Last year rumors of another coup plot by the Muslimeen sent locals into a panic. As the years since the 1990 coup attempt pass, one thing most Trinidadians agree on is its lingering impact on the political, social and cultural climate in the country. Some even wonder if history might be repeating itself.
‘It’s A War Zone.’
Laventille.
One of the most dangerous areas of Trinidad. Only those who live within its borders are welcome after sundown. Despite tourist-friendly beaches and a world-famous carnival, Trinidad and Tobago is ranked the 10th most homicidal country in the world. And a battle between rival gangs is largely to blame.
“It’s a war zone,” Damon** says, using a head nod to motion to what he calls “the border” -- a single street drawing the line between where one gang’s reign ends and the other begins.
It’s the Muslims versus the Rastas. Ironically, most members of both gangs are neither Muslim nor Rastafarian. From the smallest of turf battle, to control over a massive illegal arms and narcotics trade, a new day usually means a new victim. Another name in the headlines.
“[The gangs] are just taking orders from the elites,” Damon says, “And it’s the poor people who suffer. Even for those not involved, saying you’re from Laventille carries a certain stigma. It’s almost a sentence.”
Who controls it all depends on who you ask. Some say politicians, foreign influencers or just the wealthy and well-connected, but “big fish” is what they’re called. After a short reprieve from Trinidad’s deadliest year in 2008, the murder rate is on the uptick, pitting man against man, block against block. And leaving one of the country’s poorest and most vulnerable neighborhoods to suffer the consequence.
** - Name changed to protect identity.
Great interview and follow up photoshoot with designer Anya Ayoung-Chee, winner of Project Runway season 9 and prominent carnival mas maker. She offers a unique perspective on the evolution of carnival and reaching a balance between old mas and new. She's shown here with her presentation for The Lost Tribe: Ava.
Putting in some work for my carnival story at The Lost Tribe's debut mas camp in Woodbrook. In response to calls for more traditional and affordable costume options, Tribe carnival band -- one of the most popular in Trinidad -- launched this alternative for masqueraders who want the fun and services of the high profile band while playing a style more reminiscent of old mas.
The call came in early: shooting threat, staff evacuated. Wires to lights and security cameras inside a center operated by one of #Trinidad's prominent ministries had been cut. Although unsubstantiated, rumors swirled of a possible ordered killing. It's the daily reality of some of Trinidad's most vulnerable areas. Warfare is exploding between two of the country's most notorious gangs: the Muslims and the Rastas - most members are neither Muslim nor Rasta. After a few years of decreased crime, the murder rate is on the uptick with no signs of slowing down. And control over a thriving arms and drug trade is largely to blame. Ahead of a bitterly contested election ripe with corruption allegations against both leading parties, Trinidad is faced with a tough decision of who will lead the country amid growing turmoil.
Good Afternoon from #Trinidad! Quick snack before continuing on with my international reporting fellowship. Elections, prison breaks, trafficking and FIFA? Oh my! And a little carnival & cultural reporting, too. Lots of stuff to cover here. Be sure to follow to stay up-to-date with my developments! #Caribbean #CaribbeanReporting #LiveFromKenya
Happy Independence Day #Jamaica!
As part of the ICFJ Fellowship, I get to do several stories aside from my main project. One of them is related to carnival, a traditional festival that takes place at different times throughout the year, depending on the country. I happened to be in Barbados during their carnival, called Crop Over. So when in Rome… I got some great footage and am looking forward to adding another element to this piece when I visit costume markers in Trinidad this weekend. Off I go! ✈️
Happy Emancipation Day / Week! Many islands in the Caribbean that were former British territories are marking the emancipation of slavery this week. The specific day varies by country but most fall within the first week of August, specifically August 1st. Slavery was abolished by the British empire in 1834 and to mark the occasion many islands have cultural festivals and carnivals to pay homage to enslaved ancestors. Here in Barbados, it's Crop Over, the annual carnival tradition. Revelers awoke in the wee hours of the morning today to parade through the dark streets with paint, powder and oil as part of the celebration known as Foreday. Pictured above is the Emancipation Statue, located just east of Bridgetown. It marks the island breaking the chains of slavery. Many Barbadians refer to the figure as Bussa, named after an enslaved Barbadian who led a slave revolt in 1816. Today is a holiday therefore businesses are closed. But masquerades for Monday's Grand Kadooment Day parade are still picking up their costumes. The streets are filled with the sounds of sweet soca and calypso music and everyone is ready to party! Happy Emancipation!