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Diocletian's Palace
Diocletian’s Palace
Cathedral St. Domnius Diocletian’s Palace with stunning Cathedral St. Domnius in the background is what you see in most photographs of Split. The palace isn’t only beautiful but also fascinating! I’ve never experienced anything like it and thanks to a change in accommodation my apartment is now in the center of the walled palace complex. There was noisy construction on a flat above me, so I…
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Cape Perpetua Oregon
Enjoyed a gorgeous Indian Summer day along the Oregon Coast yesterday! Since returning from my long trip to South America in June I’ve been hiking mostly nearby places – Mt. Pisgah and Spencer Butte. Yesterday I joined the Obsidians for a beautiful hike in the forest above Cape Perpetua – it’s about a 1.5 hour drive. We hiked for almost 4 hours, first in the woods and then along a ridge overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The weather was spectacular!
Chanterelle Mushroom
Deep in the Woods
Coastal Vista
Wisdom Tree
Some in the group collected chanterelle mushrooms and we finished the day with late lunch in Yachats, a small seaside town. Fantastic weather and great company!
Cape Perpetua Hike Enjoyed a gorgeous Indian Summer day along the Oregon Coast yesterday! Since returning from my long trip to South America in June I've been hiking mostly nearby places - Mt.
Holešovice Prague
Holešovice is in Prague’s northern suburbs in District 7 along the Vltava River. I went there on Sunday to visit the Prague Zoo and nearby botanical gardens. Getting to Holešovice from Old Town was a bit of a haul and involved taking two different trams and a bus. I got off the last tram at the wrong stop, and found myself out in the boondocks not sure which way to go to reach the zoo. A friendly…
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Oregon Bach Festival 2015
Johann Sebastian Bach Johannes Brahms Last night I attended an Oregon Bach Festival (OBF) concert at Hult Center. The OBF is an annual University of Oregon event that celebrates the works of Johann Sebastian Bach. This year the festival runs from June 25th through July 12th with a fantastic variety of summer concerts and guest artists, including non-Bach-related programs. The OBF focuses on a…
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Home Again
From the Hammock This is the place that I love the best, A little brown house, like a ground-bird’s nest, Hid among grasses, and vines, and trees, Summer retreat of the birds and bees. The tenderest light that ever was seen Sifts through the vine-made window screen– Sifts and quivers, and flits and falls On home-made carpets and gray-hung walls. All through June the west wind free The breath of…
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Vyšehrad Prague
Vyšehrad Yesterday I visited Prague’s Vyšehrad Castle, a 10th century hillside fortress overlooking the city. It’s accessible from many directions but I decided to get there by climbing the old stone steps along the Vltava River. Basilica Door It’s not a difficult climb and the lush parks leading to the castle give the area a “magical” aura. The castle has many myths, some dating back to the 8th…
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Claudia Svetliza Artista Buenos Aires
Claudia Svetliza Artista Buenos Aires
Claudia Svetliza Dancers Claudia Svetliza Café San Telmo Edmundo Rivero After checking out several street fairs, including San Telmo and Retiro, I found paintings in Recoleta at Plaza Francia. Along with paintings from Peru and Chile, they will be great additions to my home gallery! Claudia Svetliza Bandoneón Player Artist Claudia Svetliza started selling her paintings at Plaza Francia 15 years…
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Mercado de las Pulgas and Local Artists
Mercado de las Pulgas and Local Artists
Juan Carlos Castagnino Benito Quinquela Martín The Buenos Aires Flea Market in Palermo is the largest antiques market in Buenos Aires and surely an antique dealer’s heaven. It’s an interesting place where you can find unique furniture, paintings, collectibles, glassware and more. I spent part of the day there but didn’t find what I was looking for – a small painting by a local artist. I’ve seen…
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Día de la Revolución de Mayo Buenos Aires
Néstor and Cristina Kirchner May 25th is important to the Argentine people. It’s the date in 1810 when a junta took over from the Spanish Viceroyalty and the country declared independence from Span. I knew Buenos Aires would celebrate their independence day but had no idea exactly what to expect. La Cámpora Demonstration T-Shirts Néstor & Cristina Kirchner, Juan Peron Monday morning I went into…
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Día de la Revolución de Mayo Buenos Aires
Néstor and Cristina Kirchner May 25th is important to the Argentine people. It’s the date in 1810 when a junta took over from the Spanish Viceroyalty and the country declared independence from Span. I knew Buenos Aires would celebrate their independence day but had no idea exactly what to expect. La Cámpora Demonstration T-Shirts Néstor & Cristina Kirchner, Juan Peron Monday morning I went into…
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Notorious Jazz Club Buenos Aires
Notorious Jazz Club Buenos Aires
Notorious Jazz Club Notorious is a popular jazz club in Buenos Aires. From the outside it looks like a CD store. Once you’re inside, the storefront leads down a corridor to a jazz club and restaurant in the back. The club is on Avenida Callao (pronounced cashhou) a few blocks from my apartment in Recoleta. Notorious Jazz Club I stopped by to check it out and bought a ticket for last night’s jazz…
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La Boca Street Art
Street Scene
La Boca
La Boca is one of the last neighborhoods I’ve explored in Buenos Aires. It’s a long walk through traffic and crowded streets. None of the subway lines go there, so I had to overcome a hesitancy to take Buenos Aires buses. The buses are packed and sporadic and it’s hard to find the pickup points – some marked, others not. Today I decided to hop on the number 29 which passes from Recoleta through Monserrat, San Telmo, and La Boca.
La Boca Street Mural
The first time I caught the 29 it took almost an hour to maneuver through bottlenecked traffic and get across town to La Boca. By the time we arrived it was late afternoon and almost dark outside. Yesterday I went earlier and the trip was painless and faster.
Tango Dancers
La Boca isn’t my favorite part of Buenos Aires. It’s unique but very touristy and a bit dangerous. It’s a poor area rich in history and creativity. The bus had quite a strong vibe. Some of the people were scary looking. Others had worn faces and tired eyes, maybe indicating a hard life. On the first bus ride to Boca I sat next to a woman holding a small child – both seemed to be fast asleep. Magically they woke up the moment the bus arrived at their stop.
Yesterday I waited for the bus with a group of people including four friends who were entertaining everyone at the bus stop. They were funny and even with malo Español I caught a few of their jokes. They had everyone laughing.
It’s a long holiday weekend in Argentina. Monday, May 25, is Argentina’s July 4th. Some major plazas are blocked off for big celebrations and festivals. The streets are teeming with fast-moving pedestrians.
Benito Marti, Artist
La Boca is on a small inlet off the Rio de la Plata called Riachuelo. The port of Riachuelo and a railroad, Vuelta de Rocha, are key elements of the neighborhood. Most La Boca residents are descendants of Italian immigrants from Genova and speak with a Genoese or Xeneize dialect. Genoese immigrants settled in La Boca in the early 1900s. They built houses on high sidewalks to protect them from flooding. Many of the buildings have wrought iron balconies and the people paint their homes in bright, spectacular colors, originally from leftover paint from the dockyard ships.
Building Art
La Boca is a popular area for artists and creative people. One of the most visited and photographed tourist areas is a street with colorful murals and graffiti called Caminito. Artists display their work in this area. Caminito is famous for markets that sell art, souvenirs, and local merchandise. Leather goods at La Boca markets are cheaper than anywhere else in Buenos Aires.
Puente Nicolas Avellaneda
Along the boardwalk are the Foundación Proa, a modern exhibition center, and the Fine Arts Museum of La Boca.Foundación Proa hosts six contemporary art shows a year featuring works from Argentina and abroad. They also conduct art workshops, courses, conferences, and concerts. The Fine Arts Museum displays the work of artist Benito Quinquela Martí, considered a “son of La Boca neighborhood”.
In 1890 nuns found infant Martí opposite the door of the House of Abandoned Children, an orphanage. He lived at the orphanage until a family adopted him. As an artist Martí worked on Theater La Ribera and Bridge Nicolás Avellaneda, named after Nicolás Avellaneda president of Argentina 1874-1880.
Churches in La Boca include beautiful San Juan El Evangelista and the Sanctuary Nuestra Señora Madre de los Emigrants which pays tribute to immigrants who arrived in Argentina from different countries, especially the Mediterranean. La Boca has abundant tango studios and Italian taverns. Dancers often perform in cafes and on the street. The restaurant where I stopped for lunch had fantastic live tango and flamenco dancers. After their performances the dancers circulated throughout the restaurant to talk with people and collect tips.
Juan and Evita Peron
Foundacion Proa Exhibit
Riachuelo
La Bombonera
Street Art
A major force in the La Boca neighborhood is the popular Club Boca Juniors soccer team La Bombonera (chocolate box) stadium with a capacity for 50,000 spectators. The stadium is also used for concerts and some of its most famous performers include Elton John and the Bee Gees. Boca Juniors is regarded as the club of Argentina’s working class. Many famous soccer players, including Juan Román Riquelme and Carlos Tévez came from Boca Juniors. The Museo de la Pasion Boquense is a La Boca monument that idolizes the famed Soccer Team.
It was a long but interesting day!
La Boca Neighborhood Buenos Aires La Boca is one of the last neighborhoods I’ve explored in Buenos Aires. It's a long walk through traffic and crowded streets.
nderful Piazzolla Tango Performance Buenos Aires
nderful Piazzolla Tango Performance Buenos Aires
Piazzolla Tango Performance Astor Pantaleón Piazzolla Last night I attended a tango performance in Galería Güemes, a restored Belle Époque building in Buenos Aires. The Art Noveau building is gorgeous and in addition to the cabaret, it has galleries, apartments, offices, and restaurants. Galleria Güemes The Four Seasons of Tango by Piazzolla Tango was performed in the Galeria’s underground…
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Datça Saturday Market
Turkish Vendors
Shoppers
Datça comes alive on Saturday mornings partly because of the fantastic outdoor market. Vendors set up their stalls under a white canopy that covers several city blocks along the main drag. It’s an incredible display of flowers, live chicks for sale, fruit, vegetables, nuts, spices, honey, clothing, and handicrafts. The area is a rich fruit, nut, spice, and vegetable bowl…
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Teatro Colón Opera House Buenos Aires
Teatro Colón Opera House Buenos Aires
Teatro Colón Concert Hall
Frescoes
I’ve been looking forward to attending some performances at Teatro Colón, one of the most famous opera houses in the world. I’ll miss prime ballet, opera, and symphony but got tickets for two drastically different off-season performances.
Breve Sueño
Stained Glass
Breve Sueño (Short Dream) was performed for a small audience in Theater Colón’s basement studio.…
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Basílica del Santísmo
Colonia del Sacramento Street
Renovated House
I spent Friday exploring Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay, I the only Portuguese settlement along the Rio de la Plata. In the 1600s Colonia was the focus of a struggle over control of the area between the Spanish and Portuguese.
At that time, Colonia was a walled city and contraband port, evading the Spanish crown’s trade rules. Today it’s a sleepy resort town, a port, and an agricultural and textile trade center. It’s one of the world’s best examples of early Spanish and Portuguese architecture. Colonia reminded me of Cartagena, Columbia – but smaller, more conservative, and less touristy.
Tree-Lined Street
Restored House & Antique Truck
Boats run daily between Buenos Aires and Colonia. The 8:30 a.m. boat (Buquebus) was packed with tourists – mostly Argentine. The ride from Buenos Aires along Rio de la Plata takes about an hour each way on a fast boat and passengers are not allowed outside on the deck. The weather was clear, in the mid-70s, and wonderful.
I was a bit groggy as the day before demonstrations spilled over from Central Buenos Aires into nearby Cordoba Avenue in Recoleta. The sound of raucous demonstrators outside late at night and again early in the morning made it difficult to sleep. While in Buenos Aires I’ve experienced demonstrations knotting up traffic in main parts of the city. The demonstrators know how to cause pandemonium. Whatever their demonstrations were about, hope they accomplished something other than disturbing the residents of Recoleta.
Bull Fighting Ring
El Faro Lighthouse
There are several interesting attractions in Colonia del Sacramento, including:
Puerta de la Ciudadela, a drawbridge built in 1745 to safeguard the city
Bastion del Carmen, a cultural center that was once a factory and wharf
El Faro Lighthouse constructed in 1857 of stones from the ruins of a convent
Museo Portuguese with artifacts representing Portuguese architecture and furnishings
Plaza de Toros bull ring built in 1910 which saw a total of 8 bullfights before bullfighting was prohibited in 1912
Café Colonia
Marina
Colonia del Sacramento Uruguay is an artfully detailed restoration of an original colonial city. Homes, gardens, and parks dating back to the 1600s have been meticulously restored to their original grandeur. The trees and antique cars throughout the city are magnificent and the weather is temperate all year.
One of the most popular and romantic places to stay in Colonia is Plaza Posada Mayor, now a beautifully restored colonial hotel.
Boat Dock
Colonia Restaurant & Cafe
“Built in the Portuguese style of houses and cobblestoned streets, the historic part of Colonia is reminiscent of old Lisbon with winding streets and colorful houses. The historic quarter, Barrío Historico, on a small peninsula jutting out into the river, was named a UNESCO heritage site in 1995.”
It was a mellow, quiet day in a colorful place with rich historical significance. After walking around all day in the pleasant atmosphere and warm sun I chatted with some of the other passengers on the boat and then fell asleep on the way back to Buenos Aires – as did half the people on the boat! The others went crazy over the duty-free shop and almost bought the place out. There were good bargains compared to the high prices in Buenos Aires.
Colonia del Sacramento Uruguay I spent Friday exploring Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay, I the only Portuguese settlement along the Rio de la Plata.
La Recoleta Cemetery Buenos Aires
La Recoleta Cemetery Buenos Aires
Our Lady of Pilar
Cat Caretaker
Visiting Cementerio de la Recoleta is an unforgettable experience. The beautiful cemetery has the elaborate tombs of many notable Argentinians including presidents, Nobel Prize winners, poets, artists, naval and military officers, Eva Peron, and a granddaughter of Napoleon. It has been called one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world.
The cemetery is set…
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