Rambling Rambler

Polk & Bean You best eat ya Polk & Bean Tomorrow you gone out work the machine Working in the pouring rain No hand raised No handed raise https://manicmaniacman.com https://www.instagram.com/manic_maniac_man/?hl=en

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HUgE April 2009

REALMAN (pt. 2 finale)

Sharp cutting and exquisite materials.

Dressed in a top and trousers that pursue such beauty.

Clothing stripped down to its bare essentials is what truly reflects a man’s strength.

Prada coats - reference items

(Prada Japan Customer Relations)

All-in-one outfit by Raf Simons (Reference item) (Sun Frères)

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci shirt ¥76,650 (Third Culture)

Jil Sander suit ¥304,500 (Jil Sander Japan)

Balenciaga sleeveless jacket ¥231,000 (reference price) (Balenciaga Japan)

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HUgE April 2009

REALMAN (pt. 1)

Sharp cutting and exquisite materials.

Dressed in a top and trousers that pursue such beauty.

Clothing stripped down to its bare essentials is what truly reflects a man's strength.

Sleeveless jacket by Raf Simons ¥195,300, trousers ¥103,950 (both from Sun Frères)

Neil Barrett suspenders ¥57,750, tank top ¥32,550 (both from PMD JAPAN)

Raf Simons top ¥127,050, shorts ¥115,500 (both from Sun Frères)

Jil Sander cardigan ¥165,900, pants ¥69,300, innerwear - reference item (all from Jil Sander Japan)

Thom Browne coat ¥814,800, socks ¥9,975, jumpsuit, tie bar, shoes - all reference items (all from Steady Study)

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HUgE April 2009

Diesel advertisement

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HUgE April 2009

Prada advertisement

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HUgE April 2009

ripvanwinkle

Leather Jacket

The spirit of ripvanwinkle is reflected in the details of the leather.

The brand name "ripvanwinkle" is taken from the title of a novel by American novelist Washington Irving. In America, the phrase is used as a metaphor for someone who is "out of date." However, designer Masao Ohno took this phrase in a positive light and launched the brand in 1997 with the aim of creating timeless pieces in today's rapidly changing and fluid world. His stoic approach to craftsmanship is reflected in his carefully selected materials, beautiful cutting, and stitching. He puts particular emphasis on developing leather products, showcasing high quality and design.

This blouson uses finely textured, supple steer leather thinned to just 0.5mm, bonded to a stretchy jersey lining. This results in a tight fit and a crisp texture when worn. The length is set slightly longer, and the hem can be adjusted with an adjuster to create a blouson effect. The balloon silhouette created by tightening the hem has an organic beauty, adding variation to the refined material. This leather blouson, imbued with the maker's identity in every detail, exudes both modern coolness and a certain warmth.

The designer's stance of wanting to continue creating clothes with style and intention is expressed here, through the ever-changing material of leather, like a breathing second skin.

(ripvanwinkle) Leather blouson ¥136,500 (ripvanwinkle)

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE April 2009

Louis Vuitton

Reporter bag

A tool that accurately captures the essence of the times, just like a reporter.

Among the many luxury brands, Louis Vuitton enjoys unwavering popularity. It's still fresh in our memories that Rei Kawakubo paid homage to the beauty of its bags with an exclusive collaboration last year.

The bags crafted by this long-established Parisian travel and luggage brand, which has captivated even great creators, reflect a sense of tradition and modernity. The Monogram canvas, created by Georges Vuitton in 1896 and said to have been inspired by traditional Japanese family crests, has become an iconic motif loved worldwide for over a century since its introduction. With its traditional design,

This reporter bag has opened up a new aesthetic.

The new reporter bag, unveiled in the 2009 S/S pre-collection, retains the specifications of its predecessor but features a fresh look thanks to the use of plain suede and calf leather. Completely devoid of the brand's signature motifs, its clean and simple design exudes modernity, practicality, and a fashionable aura.

This timeless classic model, infused with first-class craftsmanship, is infused with innovative sensibilities. Its compact yet highly functional form, offering excellent storage capacity, was designed with the image of a globe-trotting reporter in mind.

This exquisite piece embodies the innovation of a grand maison that likens life to a journey, conveying a chic lifestyle and elegant spirit.

Louis Vuitton reporter bags: front ¥274,050, back ¥292,950 (both from Louis Vuitton Customer Service Center)

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HUgE April 2009

Isetan Advertisement

"The young lord enjoying the cherry blossoms,

the princess watching the flowers change color."

flower festival

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HUgE April 2009

MIHARAYASUHIRO Advertisement

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HUgE Mar 2009

Jochem Hendricks

"The simpler the work, the easier it is to imbue it with meaning."

"The eye drawings on display this time required very advanced techniques to realize the simple idea of 'drawing with the eyes.' I didn't use my hands at all; I literally 'draw with my eyes.' A very long time is spent on my work. I can't say for sure, but some pieces took around 3 to 4 years, and some even took 7 or 8 years. Even though they may look simple, an incredible amount of time is inherent in each piece."

In fact, it was an extremely simple drawing. However, its creation required a special eye-tracking device, which was very expensive at the time. He conducted thorough research to utilize it, and it took several years before he finally had the opportunity to realize his vision. The extraordinary effort he puts into his creations, and the minimalist finish that is inversely proportional to that effort—that is Jochen Hendricks' unique domain. Who else would try to create something like "a bottle filled with 100 liters of tears" or "a glass bottle filled with 10,258,743 grains of sand"?

"The simpler the artwork, the more people become interested in the hidden meaning. That's why I think the title of the artwork is important. For example, if you see the title 'Counted Sand,' you immediately understand how the artwork was created, right? Even though it looks like just a glass bottle filled with sand (laughs). By providing that kind of information, you can give the artwork a different meaning. For me, the most important thing is that the artwork is rooted in everyday life. Artwork made for artists and art professionals is boring. Nobody seriously finds that interesting."

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HUgE Mar 2009

New Directions in Shop (pt. 4 finale)

What select shops around the world say about the trends and strategies for Spring/Summer 2009.

Colorful and light items adorned the runways with exceptional splendor during the Spring/Summer 2009 season.

Undeterred by the prolonged recession, buyers around the world

We keep our eyes peeled every day to catch the latest trends. Buyers from famous shops in Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo have shared their picks for this season’s must-have items.

Q1. What new trends and directions can be seen in the men’s fashion scene for the Spring/Summer 2009 season? Also, what are the key differences compared to previous years?

Q2. Please list three men’s brands that your store is paying attention to for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please tell us why.

Q3. Please list three items that your store recommends for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please explain your reasons.

Q4. Are there any new styles or outfits that we can expect to see in the Spring/Summer 2009 season that are different from previous seasons?

Q5. Besides fashion items, are there any other items that your store actively recommends?

Q6. Of the brands your store discovered this season, which ones do you think have great potential for the future? Also, please tell us about any Japanese brands that you think have promising futures.

Q7. Given the global recession, what do you think the fashion industry should be doing now? (What measures do you think should be taken?)

UNITED ARROWS

Shoji Uchiyama (Men's Buyer)

A1. While the overall trend doesn't seem to have changed much, the keyword "relaxation" will undoubtedly remain essential this season. The key is to strike a good balance between traditional British style and relaxation. There seems to be a shift from the strong American traditional trend of the past few seasons to the elegant atmosphere inherent in Europe. What sets this year apart is the mood that emphasizes European elegance rather than the rusticity of American style.

A2. First, there's Yves Saint Laurent [1]. It embodies masculine sexiness and elegance. This season in particular, elegance and relaxation are expressed in a good balance. Lanvin [2], which gives denim an elegant yet casual finish, also had a truly wonderful collection. And then there's Trussardi 1911), which takes Trussardi's traditional image of masculinity and evolves it in a modern way. It's a brand I continue to keep an eye on.

A3. (kolor)'s sporty blouson [3] features a light, spring-like feel and a slightly twisted design. Shorts [4] are also attracting attention, ranging from above-the-knee lengths to three-quarter lengths. With global temperatures rising due to global warming, demand for them is likely to increase even more. I'm very interested in the sandals that appeared in Lanvin's collection. Sandals are available in a wide variety this season as well, but I also recommend adding accessories such as anklets, which are being produced in collaboration with domestic brands and are scheduled for release around springtime.

A4. A three-piece suit style. The way you wear the vest [5] is particularly important. The masculine, dandy style looks great. Feminine styles are trending this spring and summer, but the contrast between that and the dandy style is very appealing. Adding accessories such as a hat to add a playful touch would also be interesting.

A5. We carry Leica digital cameras, although they are only available at select stores, such as our Harajuku flagship store. While the market is flooded with cutting-edge technology in terms of performance alone, I really resonate with Leica's attitude of continuing to embrace new things while preserving its history, strengths, and core values.

A6. Berkman Brothers, a New York brand. It's still small, but it was founded by brothers who used to work in material development at a certain fashion brand. I'm interested in the realistic casualness they create, their down-to-earth, everyday casual clothes.

A7. In a word, it's "SIMPLE THINKING." Instead of doing something extraordinary, it's important to clearly communicate why it's good and what makes it good. And it's also important to clearly define what you're good at.

Blouson by <kolor> ¥75,600 (MORERIDE)

Shorts by Bernard Zins, ¥34,650

(United Arrows Harajuku Main Store, Men's Building)

Mistral vest ¥11,550 (United Arrows Harajuku Main Store Men's Building)

ISETAN

Noriyuki Hashizume (Men's Creators Buyer)

A1. I feel that designers' influence is growing stronger. This season saw many conceptual and well-designed collections. If I were to point out a clearly different element, it would be genderless fashion. In terms of the overall fashion trend, I expect that the influence of collections that lean even more towards advanced fashion will be directly reflected in the market. Also, while American traditional and heavy-duty ready-to-wear styles will continue to be trends, more elegant and genderless fashion that transcends gender differences will undoubtedly attract attention than last year.

A2. Number (N)ine [1] showcased elegantly layered decorative items, a stark contrast to the previous season's collection. The brand's ability to express a wide range of styles without compromising its identity is remarkable. Riccardo Tisci's first Givenchy [2] is sure to attract attention, but the "street couture" that skillfully blends the elegance of a French fashion house with the sensibilities of American streetwear was refreshing. Raf Simons' creation is a very well-balanced piece that combines a futuristic design approach with minimalist and feminine elements.

A3. First, vests [3]. Up until now, suit fabrics have been common, but this season there is a wide variety of colors and materials. Shorts have usually been a difficult item to make a big trend due to their short sales period, but this year there are many suggestions for layering, such as pairing them with leggings, which is a great boost for them. For sneakers, we are looking for high-tech styles that can be coordinated with elegant styles. We are paying attention to high-tops with straps, such as those by Pierre Hardy [4], and metallic colors.

A4. In a word, it's layering. Whether it's tops or bottoms, it's fun to create contrast by changing materials and colors while calculating the balance of size and length.

A5. At Isetan Men's, we are particularly interested in exercise machines. We have a wide selection, from professional machines like Power Plate and Technogym from Italy to exercise equipment such as balance balls. We want to promote them, including their appearance, functionality, and the beauty of the form of each machine.

A6. Among the new brands, I'm particularly interested in Givenchy. Also Nicolas Andrea Talaris. In Japan, I have high hopes for Wacko Maria.

A7. I believe the fashion industry should always take risks in pursuit of novelty. Perhaps it is precisely at times like these that we need to seriously consider what fashion truly is.

(John Lawrence Sullivan) vest ¥52,500 (Isetan Shinjuku Store)

Sneakers by Bier Hardy ¥61,950 (Isetan Shinjuku Store)

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE Mar 2009

New Directions in Shop (pt. 3)

What select shops around the world say about the trends and strategies for Spring/Summer 2009.

Colorful and light items adorned the runways with exceptional splendor during the Spring/Summer 2009 season.

Undeterred by the prolonged recession, buyers around the world

We keep our eyes peeled every day to catch the latest trends. Buyers from famous shops in Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo have shared their picks for this season’s must-have items.

Q1. What new trends and directions can be seen in the men’s fashion scene for the Spring/Summer 2009 season? Also, what are the key differences compared to previous years?

Q2. Please list three men’s brands that your store is paying attention to for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please tell us why.

Q3. Please list three items that your store recommends for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please explain your reasons.

Q4. Are there any new styles or outfits that we can expect to see in the Spring/Summer 2009 season that are different from previous seasons?

Q5. Besides fashion items, are there any other items that your store actively recommends?

Q6. Of the brands your store discovered this season, which ones do you think have great potential for the future? Also, please tell us about any Japanese brands that you think have promising futures.

Q7. Given the global recession, what do you think the fashion industry should be doing now? (What measures do you think should be taken?)

Dries Van Noten shirt ¥61,950 (TFC)

South Willard

Ryan Conder (Co-owner, Buyer)

A1. Personally, I try not to get too involved with trends each season. That's because, in the end, customers all come down to what's comfortable to wear. If I had to say, I think there were a lot of brands releasing shorts this season. I think designers have finally realized that it's more comfortable to wear shorts or sleeveless tops when it's hot.

A2. First, there's Raf Simons, who, with each passing season, seems to overcome all the constraints of men's fashion and refine his unique sensibility. Then there's Dries Van Noten, whose beautiful textile choices and comfortable fit continue to captivate customers. [1] Finally, there's Stephan Schneider, who could be considered to be somewhere in between the two. [2] I believe this exceptionally talented designer has a bright future ahead of him.

A3. (Raf Simons)'s quilted cotton jacket [3] is a very original and characteristic piece of his. Also, a moderately relaxed short-sleeved shirt by Dries Van Noten would be perfect for spring and summer. And from the American brand Band of Outsiders, I really liked the shorts [4] which are very summery.

A4. Patrick Evel's show [5] was outstanding. Incorporating Ettore Sottsass into fashion is a bit unconventional, but I think he did a really good job of integrating it into each item.

A5. I'm on friendly terms with a dealer named Sam Kaufman who has a shop in LA, and his collection of Peter Vorkos ceramics and George Nakashima furniture is well worth seeing. Of course, we sometimes carry some of his items at "South Willard."

A6. This is our original brand (South Willard). The inspiration comes from the California landscape, but all manufacturing is done in Japan. In addition to basic items such as shirts, pants, and jackets, we also offer our own original Okayama denim. The image we have in mind is the kind of clothes that architect Bernard Maybek might have worn if he were a young person living in the modern era.

A7. It is important to continue making clothes with integrity. I believe that brands that currently manufacture in the developing world will soon suffer a major blow. I don't think that cutting labor costs and ignoring the domestic economy can last long. All the young people who visit South Willard check the manufacturer before buying. I am very proud of that.

(Raf Simons) Jacket - Reference Item (Sun Frères)

Shorts by Band of Outsiders ¥31,400 - Reference price (GUTHRIE)

(Steven Alan) wide-leg pants ¥26,250 (International Gallery Beams)

Beams

Hiroshi Kubo (Creative Director)

A1. While maintaining the foundation of recent American and British traditional styles, I'm paying attention to designer brands that offer a new trend: elegant, sophisticated luxury with a sporty feel. Traditional styles are great, but I think it's time for something artistic, something with a certain scent and atmosphere. Everyone is hungry for new creations, and I feel like they're getting a little tired of traditional styles. In that context, the creativity of designers felt very refreshing.

A2. Givenchy's [1] sporty, casual, street-style fashion was very innovative. Band of Outsiders has added a sense of luxury and has evolved further, and it is a brand to watch in the future. And Kris Van Assche has done what we wanted to do: sophisticated sports fashion, replacing tailoring with sportswear, and expressing it in a refined, high-fashion way.

A3. One is wide-leg pants [2] that have a light and airy look. Linen and cotton, for example, have a fluffy, airy volume that feels very fresh. Next are colored shoes [3]. Whether it's deck shoes or plain-toe shoes, color is something to pay attention to this season. The preppy and electric vibe is reminiscent of the 80s. Finally, there are colored pants [4]. Including cropped pants and shorts, vivid colored bottoms are a must-have this season.

A4. This is clearly evident in the way scarves and bandanas are used. Even when wearing formal attire like a jacket and shirt, adding a scarf or bandana changes the look completely. It's a so-called traditional mixed style, but it's a traditional style updated for the Spring/Summer 2009 collection.

A5. It's art. We've been working on art as a company in the past, through projects like Lid magazine, rockarchive, and "TOKYO CULTUART," which opened in December, but we want to take this opportunity to further promote art as a brand of Beams. We hope that people will become interested in art, not just through clothing, but through the Beams filter.

A6. Francisco van Bentham, who made his Paris Fashion Week debut this spring/summer, is a Dutch designer who takes traditional menswear and gives it a light and sporty feel, creating an elegant expression while changing the balance. This spring/summer collection is exclusively available in Japan at Beams.

A7. It is necessary to change the standards of production backgrounds to create a more ecological environment. Also, as with the art mentioned earlier, I think it is important to find and introduce new creative talent and brands that have not been featured before.

Colored pants by BEAMS PLUS ¥23,100 (BEAMS PLUS Harajuku)

(YUKETEN) deck shoes ¥37,590 (BEAMS Harajuku)

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE Mar 2009

New Directions in Shop (pt. 2)

What select shops around the world say about the trends and strategies for Spring/Summer 2009.

Colorful and light items adorned the runways with exceptional splendor during the Spring/Summer 2009 season.

Undeterred by the prolonged recession, buyers around the world

We keep our eyes peeled every day to catch the latest trends. Buyers from famous shops in Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo have shared their picks for this season’s must-have items.

Q1. What new trends and directions can be seen in the men’s fashion scene for the Spring/Summer 2009 season? Also, what are the key differences compared to previous years?

Q2. Please list three men’s brands that your store is paying attention to for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please tell us why.

Q3. Please list three items that your store recommends for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please explain your reasons.

Q4. Are there any new styles or outfits that we can expect to see in the Spring/Summer 2009 season that are different from previous seasons?

Q5. Besides fashion items, are there any other items that your store actively recommends?

Q6. Of the brands your store discovered this season, which ones do you think have great potential for the future? Also, please tell us about any Japanese brands that you think have promising futures.

Q7. Given the global recession, what do you think the fashion industry should be doing now? (What measures do you think should be taken?)

Liberty

Stephen Ayres (Men's Buying Manager)

A1. First, there were body-conscious silhouettes, which were particularly noticeable in brands like Alexander McQueen and Jil Sander. Then, we saw a lot of crinkled products. We called this "crumpled chic," and many crinkled items were presented by Burberry Prorsum, Ann Demeulemeester [1], and Maison Martin Margiela. However, the overall trend encompassing these smaller trends was the "global traveler" trend. We were able to witness this trend directly at the Dries Van Noten show featuring Gary Numan.

A2. Burberry Prorsum. It may surprise you, but Liberty is only carrying it this season. We are really looking forward to this opportunity for two long-established British brands to come together. And Spencer Hart from Savile Row. A shop-in-shop has just opened inside Liberty. Lastly, A.P.C. I think this brand's simplicity and commitment to authenticity perfectly match the needs of Liberty's customers.

A3. A wrinkled coat from Burberry Prorsum [2]. A traditional item is given a fresh upgrade with this processing. Next is a reversible blazer [3], a collaboration between Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man and Brooks Brothers. It's a very versatile item. And a polo shirt [4], a collaboration between Raf Simons and Fred Perry. The vibrant colors add a modern touch to the vintage-inspired item.

A4. Rolling up pants is a trend, I think. At Paul Smith [5] and Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man, rolled-up pants styles, regardless of length, were eye-catching.

A5. Lomography cameras are gadgets that adults can enjoy both while taking pictures and afterward.

A6. These are all already powerful brands, but this season I'm paying attention to Aquascutum, Burberry Prorsum, and Ralph Lauren.

A7. I believe that future customers will fall into two categories: those who buy timeless pieces with a focus on quality, and those who enjoy fashion while finding a balance between price and style. I strongly feel that it is our role in the fashion industry to develop products that meet the needs of both groups.

Coat by Burberry Prorsum ¥273,000 (Burberry Japan)

Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man x Brooks Brothers reversible jacket ¥143,850 (Comme des Garçons)

(Raf Simons Fred Perry) Long Boro - Reference item (Saint Frères)

Jeffrey

David Rubenstein (Deputy Head of Men's Department)

A1. We saw a variety of styles, but what particularly caught my attention this season was the increase in one-button jackets. I also felt that button-down, collared, short-sleeved shirts were trending. In addition, compared to the spring/summer of 2008, when polo shirts and T-shirts were prevalent, tank tops have emerged as an alternative item this season.

A2. This season, the brand that caught my attention the most was Trussardi 1911. I think it has evolved dramatically compared to last year's debut collection. Also, Lacoste, which has started an exclusive collaboration this season, and GANT, an American brand with which Jeffrey has continued to collaborate, are brands that Jeffrey is paying attention to this season.

A3. First, there's the denim blazer from Lanvin [2], which reminded me of the importance of denim. Then there are the leather intrecciato shoes from Bottega Veneta [3], which have further evolved the luxury sneaker. I was very impressed by the suede bag from Yves Saint Laurent [4], which looks as if it were made of real crocodile leather.

A4. I think we saw a lot of outfits featuring spring pea coats. Also, vests and cargo pants, which have been popular for the past few seasons, were incorporated into many looks, and I felt that their popularity has not waned at all.

A5. One item I've been keeping an eye on since autumn/winter is the digital photo frame from the French manufacturer Parrot. You can wirelessly transmit photos taken with a digital camera and display them in the frame. In particular, the collaborative products with French designer André Putman have excellent designs and are highly recommended as gifts. Also, the wireless speaker system for portable music players by Philippe Starck is a very cool item.

A6. This season we have started carrying Balmain Homme by Christophe Decarnin and Thomas Maier. Our top picks from Japanese brands this season are Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man [5] and mastermind JAPAN, both of which have released many unique items.

A7. In order to overcome this recession, I believe that the most important thing is to be more careful in selecting shops. We also need to pay more attention to customer service than ever before and strive to make shopping at Jeffrey a memorable experience for our customers.

Bottega Veneta shoes - ¥101,850 (Bottega Veneta Japan)

Yves Saint Laurent bags - reference items (Gucci Group Japan, Yves Saint Laurent Division)

Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man x Baracuta collaboration blouson ¥77,700 (Comme des Garçons)

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE Mar 2009

New Directions in Shop (pt. 1)

What select shops around the world say about the trends and strategies for Spring/Summer 2009.

Colorful and light items adorned the runways with exceptional splendor during the Spring/Summer 2009 season.

Undeterred by the prolonged recession, buyers around the world

We keep our eyes peeled every day to catch the latest trends. Buyers from famous shops in Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo have shared their picks for this season's must-have items.

Q1. What new trends and directions can be seen in the men's fashion scene for the Spring/Summer 2009 season? Also, what are the key differences compared to previous years?

Q2. Please list three men's brands that your store is paying attention to for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please tell us why.

Q3. Please list three items that your store recommends for the Spring/Summer 2009 season. Also, please explain your reasons.

Q4. Are there any new styles or outfits that we can expect to see in the Spring/Summer 2009 season that are different from previous seasons?

Q5. Besides fashion items, are there any other items that your store actively recommends?

Q6. Of the brands your store discovered this season, which ones do you think have great potential for the future? Also, please tell us about any Japanese brands that you think have promising futures.

Q7. Given the global recession, what do you think the fashion industry should be doing now? (What measures do you think should be taken?)

colette Paris

Sarah (Buyer, Art Director)

A1. The overall trend for the 2009 Spring/Summer collection was a prevalence of classic styles and items made from light and delicate materials. There were no significant changes compared to last year.

A2. First, there's Thom Browne. [1] [2] And for women's wear, I'm keeping an eye on Balmain Homme by Christophe Decarnin, who is already highly regarded. He'll be officially presenting his men's collection from the 2009-10 A/W collection, but designer Christophe himself is already wearing some of it, and it looks fantastic. Just like his women's collection, which is full of wild, rock-and-roll spirit, the men's line has a cool worldview. I'm looking forward to the exhibition in Paris in January. And then there's Benjamin Bixby, founded by Outkast's Andre 3000, who is also a hip-hop star. His wardrobe, which mixes classic formal style with sportswear, is full of his signature pop charm.

A3. A shirt from (THOMSEN). The material quality is high, and above all, the cutting is beautiful. With its compact tailoring and unisex feel, it suits everyone and is an easy addition to any wardrobe. Next is a tailored jacket from (Kilgour), which made its runway debut in Paris this season. This brand, from a long-established British bespoke company, is appealing for its modern and perfect silhouette and meticulous detail design.

A4. This season, many jacket styles were proposed that were worn lightly, like a shirt.

A5. (Les Ateliers Ruby) motorcycle helmet "Bel vedere". Designed with inspiration from Steve McQueen's style. A high-quality rider item that mixes retro and modern spirit. And, hip-hop producer Dr. Dre's headphones (DR. DRE x MONSTER CABLE), developed with Monster Corporation in pursuit of the purest possible sound without distortion during studio recordings.

A6. A shirt from (THOMSEN), a scarf from <Julien David>, and swimwear from (Robinson les bains). Among Japanese creators, I'm keeping an eye on <sacai), which launched its men's line this season. Like its women's line, it's a brand with wonderful knitwear. And this season I'm also keeping an eye on (visvim), <NEIGHBORHOOD>, and <NEXUS7) [5].

A7. A recession is a very difficult situation for creators. We will be watching the results of this season to see how things go in preparation for the 2009-10 Autumn/Winter season.

Blouson by Thom Browne

¥483,000 (Reference Price)

(Steady Study)

Cardigan by <sacai> ¥54,600 (sacai)

Maria Luisa

Robin Schulié (Buyer)

A1. Fashion is moving in a conceptual direction. This means that ornamentation is decreasing, and it is no longer aimed at young people. The seasons when Raf Simons featured teenagers, and the rock style for kids that Hedi Slimane proposed, are already a thing of the past. Now Raf Simons is leading the scene, developing cuttings and materials at (Raf Simons) and (Jil Sander), constantly engaging in refined exploration.

A2. I think Raf Simons' Jil Sander [1] collection was the best of the season. In terms of materials, tailoring, and image, it is the brand with the most modern sensibility in the menswear scene right now. Rick Owens [2] is also very well-regarded. Washed thin leather blousons, deconstructed knits, and thin, sheer fabrics. Classic items like slim jersey t-shirts are as great as ever. (Balenciaga) [3] is showing a super-tight and fashionable direction. For example, there are trendy items such as ultra-slim checked pants, tight jackets and coats.

A3. A suit by Jil Sander with modern materials and tailoring. The studded shirt by Black Homme [4] shows a rock-influenced 2000s feel and has an appeal that goes beyond mere clichés and youthful style. And the delicate leather pendant by Natalia Brilli is very stylish. She is a creator not yet widely known, but her brand has a quality and sense that rivals that of grand fashion houses. Similarly, the eyelet scarf by Givenchy [5] is another item to watch out for this season.

A4. (Comme des Garçons) and 90s Helmut Lang are examples of a style that eliminates youthfulness, instead offering an intellectual, hard-to-understand, and suggestive look. While there isn't a direct reference point, it's a style that's different from preppy, rock, or navy styles.

A5. Taschen publishes Leni Riefenstahl's "Africa," a beautiful photobook containing reportage photographs of African tribes. And "Misty Dawn" is a collection of portraits of the girl who was Jock Sturges' muse, taken over 25 years from her childhood. The interiors and objects of "ASCÈTE" (www. ascete.com) by product designer Pierre Gaulonan are all absolutely wonderful.

A6. Among young creators, I always keep an eye on (Romain Kre mer), (BLAAK HOMME), (Laitinen), (Olivier Borde), and Nicolas Andrea Talaris, who relaunched his own brand this season. In terms of grand fashion houses, I support the style of (Givenchy).

A7. Fashion is an industry, and it cannot escape the instability of the economy. However, we can also view this recession positively. I see it as an opportunity to move away from exorbitant prices, massive budgets, and gaudy displays, and to take an interest in real fashion.

(Rick Owens) leather blouson

¥383,250 (Pred PR)

Studded shirt by (BLAAK HOMME) ¥51,450 - Reference price (BLAAK HOMME)

(Balenciaga) Silk trench coat ¥231,000 (Balenciaga Japan)

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE Mar 2009

FASHION FORECAST 2009 (pt. 3 finale)

The Spring/Summer 2009 season has begun. A new star creator has emerged.

With the acceleration of gender neutrality and the growing influence of street culture, the scene is changing at a dizzying pace.

Despite the headwinds of a global recession, fashion continues to press on.

WIDE CUT

Genderless drop shoulder

The off-the-shoulder style, which was all the rage in the 80s, has been revived this season in a modern way. Prada has proposed blousons and cut-and-sew tops with necklines even deeper than boat necks. The dropped shoulders, which seem to reveal the shoulders at any moment, show a perfect balance of sexiness and a relaxed mood. These designs that emphasize the décolletage, which express the sense of style that breathes new life into the fashion scene every season, are noteworthy items that highlight androgynous beauty.

Prada top ¥37,800, pants ¥67,200 (all estimated prices / Prada Japan Customer Service)

FUTURE EYES

A futuristic gaze

Dior Homme sunglasses are like a shelter that blocks out the gaze of the outside world. The graphical form framed in a square frame has a futuristic and distinctive look. Available in a variety of colorful options such as blue, orange, and pink, they are reminiscent of the retro-futuristic style of the 80s. Similarly, graphic sunglasses are also being offered by Raf Simons and Lanvin, showing the remarkable evolution of eyewear.

Sunglasses by Dior Homme ¥84,000, leather blouson ¥466,200 (both Christian Dior)

MINIMALISM SHOES

Shoes that embody a minimalist beauty

Continuing from last season, shorts and ankle-length pants are in vogue this season, naturally drawing attention to footwear. Among the looks seen on the runway, minimalist shoes without laces stood out as particularly fresh. These shoes, stripped of unnecessary embellishments and boasting a refined form, achieve a light and smart balance. It's time to shed those heavy boots and try a new style.

Right: Maison Martin Margiela sneakers (reference item) (Kokonoe)

Center: Raf Simons shoes ¥195,300 (Sun Frères)

Left: Neil Barrett combination shoes ¥89,250 (PMD JAPAN)

TAKE A HEM UP

Cropped lengths are the mainstream for bottoms.

This season's collection from N.HOOLYWOOD draws inspiration from the Amish style of Pennsylvania. It reflects the daily lives of Amish boys who walk to school with a single suspender diagonally across their pants, a hat trimmed with a black ribbon, and a lunchbox in hand. In particular, simple cropped pants in black or dark blue are a must-have item for any wardrobe. Brands such as Thom Browne, Ann Demeulemeester, and Number (N)ine are also proposing this style, making it an important bottom wear item this spring and summer.

Right: Cropped pants (N.HOOLYWOOD) ¥31,500, shirt ¥18,900, straw hat ¥23,100, suspenders ¥8,400, socks ¥2,100, sneakers ¥23,100. Lunch box ¥18,900 (all from Mister Hollywood) Left: Cropped pants (N.HOOLYWOOD) ¥31,500, coveralls ¥47,250, shirt ¥26,250, straw hat ¥23,100, suspenders ¥12,600, socks ¥2,100, chukka boots ¥48,300 (all from Mister Hollywood)

LIKE A MIRROR BALL

A couturier that continues to shine across generations.

Maison Martin Margiela unveiled clothing that shimmered like a disco ball. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this season, the brand drew inspiration from its past archives to create a collection that continues to resonate with people, possessing a sensational power that captivates. The super-tight, mirror-covered trousers exemplify this perfectly. Simple, beautiful, and original, Martin Margiela's creations continue to possess a timeless brilliance.

Mirror leggings from Maison Martin Margiela (10) ¥273,000, boots from Maison Martin Margiela (2) ¥186,900 (both by Kokonoe)

ATTACHMENT

The new shop, with its significantly expanded space,

The new location is larger than the two previous stores before the relocation and merger.

While retaining the traditional solid feel, a spacious and open environment has been created.

GO WEST

stood at a crossroads

domestic mode brand

The Spring/Summer 2009 season marks a crossroads for many domestic fashion brands. From UNDERCOVERI SM, which finally launched its men's-only collection, to JULUS, which held its first runway show, and John Lawrence Sullivan, which presented only tailored pieces at an exhibition rather than a full collection, some of Japan's most popular brands are shifting their presentation venues to Paris. KAZUYUKI KUMAGAI AT TACHMENT has relocated and renovated its Daikanyama shop. By integrating the previously separate shops of ATTACHMENT and KAZUYUKI KUMAGAI AT TACHMENT, a space where you can enjoy the worldviews of both brands simultaneously has finally arrived. In this time of global recession, the true value of brands is being tested. We hope that Japanese brands will powerfully overcome these challenging circumstances, upholding their pride.

Kiminori Morishita

In the 09S/S collection,

The brand (Kiminori Morishita) will be suspended.

The final show in Paris was themed around the life of the writer and aviator, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

A leading Tokyo brand's specialty

Armed with only tailored clothing, they finally made their way to Paris.

We must keep a close eye on future developments.

¥115,500 (John Lawrence Sullivan)

THREE PIECE

Attracting attention this spring and summer

three piece style

The recent boom in American and British traditional styles has led to a resurgence in appreciation for classic looks. Perhaps as a result, three-piece suits—jacket, vest, and trousers—are receiving unprecedented attention. The biggest factor is the active influx of numerous domestic brands. Of course, import brands, private label brands from select shops, and tailors have also expanded their offerings, significantly broadening the range of choices from dressy to casual. Among these, a defining characteristic of this season is the use of casual materials and patterns to create light and elegant styles. This relaxed mood is steadily spreading to the streets as well.

Right: Madras check jacket ¥36,750, vest ¥19,950, shirt ¥29,400, trousers ¥28,350, tie ¥11,550, pocket square ¥4,725, ring belt ¥12,600, straw hat ¥13,650 (all from Nepenthes Shibuya)

Left: Striped jacket ¥92,400, vest ¥40,950, shirt ¥40,950, trousers ¥45,150 (all from MACH55 Ltd.)

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE Mar 2009

FASHION FORECAST 2009 (pt. 2)

The Spring/Summer 2009 season has begun. A new star creator has emerged.

With the acceleration of gender neutrality and the growing influence of street culture, the scene is changing at a dizzying pace.

Despite the headwinds of a global recession, fashion continues to press on.

FASHION X ART

cross over

fashion and art

This season particularly highlighted the strong connection between fashion and art. This close relationship is now extending beyond the runway to real-world clothing. Raf Simons drew inspiration from the lettering of New York contemporary artist Christopher Wool, incorporating a quote from Canadian poet Leonard Cohen into his clothing. Marni's collection featured the color palette used in the paintings of Helen Shelfbeck, a Finnish female painter from the early 20th century. Smoky blacks, lilacs, and walnuts, reminiscent of the Nabis movement that emerged in Paris during the same period, were frequently used, defining the brand's worldview. Adam Kimmel focused on the art movement surrounding the Ferus Gallery, which was central to the 1960s LA art scene, drawing inspiration from the wardrobes of artists who frequented the gallery at the time. Lanvin presented a collection with an elegant atmosphere, showcasing silhouettes reminiscent of the works of fashion photography master Cecil Beaton. The art scene, which stimulates the creativity of designers, is becoming increasingly captivating.

MONDRIAN FEELING

Clothing with a color palette

Jil Sander's collection was striking for its bold color blocking. The graphically combined colors created a fresh and futuristic mood. Perfectly tailored garments were adorned with random stripes, and pattern techniques were employed to create tight, elongated silhouettes. This light, modern touch, reminiscent of abstract painting, is Raf Simons' unique visual approach. A completely new style was breathed into perfectly tailored clothing. This color blocking technique has been adopted by many other creators as well, making it an element to watch this season.

Jil Sander shirt ¥81,900, trousers ¥69,300 (both from Jil Sander Japan)

PINK INVASION

The vibrant pink hues create a spring-like elegance.

Pink, a key color for Spring/Summer 2009, has been embraced by many fashion houses, including Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Dior Homme. Various tones have emerged, such as salmon pink, powder pink, and flamingo pink. Among them, Givenchy's all-fuchsia pink outfit made a particularly strong impact. Fueled by the feminine mood that has dominated fashion, pink is no longer just used as an accent, but is being chosen as the main color, which is a trend characteristic of this season

WEARING A NUDE

Alexander McQueen's nude collection

The Spring/Summer 2009 Milan Collection saw the presentation of many unique and fetishistic collections. Alexander McQueen, in particular, made a striking impression with its body-conscious approach that focused on the human body. Jackets covered in stockings, suits that created visual illusions, and trompe l'oeil depictions of muscles and bones—truly unique items graced the runway. Nudity expressed through clothing. I am always amazed by the creativity of designers who can embody even such contradictory attitudes.

GEOMETRIC PATTERN

After checks comes geometry.

Following the checks that garnered attention as a trend in the Fall/Winter 2008-09 season, geometric patterns are a must-have for this Spring/Summer season. They can be broadly categorized into two types. First, there are the fine geometric patterns seen in brands like Dries Van Noten and Burberry Prorsum. Second, there are the large geometric patterns seen in brands like Dior Homme and Giuliano Fujiwara. Whether you want to subtly express your individuality or boldly play with patterns, enjoy incorporating them in a way that suits your own style.

[manic-maniac-man]

HUgE Mar 2009

FASHION FORECAST 2009 (pt. 1)

The Spring/Summer 2009 season has begun. A new star creator has emerged.

With the acceleration of gender neutrality and the growing influence of street culture, the scene is changing at a dizzying pace.

Despite the headwinds of a global recession, fashion continues to press on.

UPDATED BRANDS

A historic fashion house reborn with a new designer.

The biggest topic of Spring/Summer 2009 was undoubtedly the revamped Givenchy, with Riccardo Tisci as its new creative director. Tisci, who handles the brand's women's haute couture and ready-to-wear, had been rumored about and eagerly awaited for several seasons before taking on the men's collection. His long-awaited first collection, themed "Latin Elegance," traced his own roots while also drawing inspiration from Italian actor Rudolph Valentino and the boys Tisci himself encountered on the streets of South America, a country he traveled to many times. Givenchy, which could be called street couture, incorporated a lot of street style and, with its sensational presentation that shed its traditional image as a haute couture house, shocked buyers and journalists around the world and brilliantly transformed itself.

By discovering and employing outstanding designers, established fashion houses continue to evolve, absorbing new sensibilities while inheriting their history and traditions. Recently, Trussardi appointed Milan Vukmirovic of L'Official Homme for the Fall/Winter 2008-09 season, and Dunhill appointed Kim Jones for Fall/Winter 2009-10. However, inheriting the profound history of a fashion house must be an immense responsibility for any designer. Just as Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme and Luca Ossendrijver of Lanvin, who currently leads the fashion world, did, we hope to see the emergence of new stars who can overcome all pressures and lead the times. (Givenchy) Polka dot top - reference item, tank top ¥19,950, shorts ¥69,300, stole ¥199,500 (all from Third Culture)

GOOD BYE,GILET. HELLO, SLEEVELESS.

The summer dress code is a sleeveless jacket.

The gilet has become a staple of casual dress code. This season, the sleeveless jacket has emerged as an alternative to the gilet. Leading menswear designers such as Raf Simons, Givenchy, Number (N)ine, and Kris Van Assche are successively releasing these sleeveless jackets. Simply cutting off the sleeves of a tailored jacket creates a surprisingly light and modern balance. This is a noteworthy top style to add to your wardrobe this season.

(Raf Simons) sleeveless jacket, letter pants, shoes - all reference items (all from Sun Frères)

FEMININE STRUCTURE

Dandyism emanating from feminine materials

This season, many fashion houses are presenting collections that incorporate feminine materials. Is this a manifestation of designers' rebellious spirit against the rise of ready-to-wear clothing fueled by the popularity of American casual wear? Number (N)ine used lace, tapestry, and silk linen to create looks that exuded a decadent and dangerously sexy aura. Yohji Yamamoto and Givenchy's collections featured ladylike shirts made entirely of lace, presented in vivid colors such as red, blue, and fuchsia pink. It would be tempting to boldly try out these styles that accentuate a well-trained, masculine physique.

Left: (NUMBER (N)INE) Lace sleeveless poncho ¥75,600, floral cropped pants ¥67,200, floral apron ¥32,550, lace stole ¥15,750, suspenders ¥29,400, gloves ¥16,800 (all NUMBER (N)INE)

BOY MEETS SKIRT

Creating a powerful image of masculinity!? Men's skirts from Homme Plus

Who decided that skirts are only for women? Such stereotypes are easily overturned by Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. This season, skirts are boldly incorporated as an effective way to create a powerful masculine image. Military blousons and tailored jackets are paired with skinny pants, and a skirt is layered on top as a finishing touch. The look is reminiscent of a Japanese samurai, the epitome of masculinity. Historically and ethnically, skirts have always been a legitimate part of menswear. With the addition of new ideas, the freedom of styling expands even further. In 2009, skirt style becomes for men.

Zebra print jacket ¥92,400, shirt ¥21,000, skirt ¥100,800, leggings ¥11,550, shoes ¥44,100 (all by Comme des Garçons Homme Plus)

NEW LAYERED

Shorts x Leggings: Discovering a New Bottom Balance

One new layering style for bottoms that's gaining attention is the combination of shorts and leggings. This combination, already perfected in women's fashion, is finally showing signs of becoming popular in men's fashion as well. The style proposed in Givenchy's collection, in particular, is excellent. By rolling up the leggings and creating a looser fit, the look is instantly elevated to a more masculine style. Shorts, which were previously only suitable for certain seasons, are now poised to become the main focus of bottoms.

Givenchy jacket ¥396,900 (suit price), leather shorts ¥507,150, leggings ¥29,400, shoes ¥177,450, socks - reference item (all from Third Culture)

STRAW HAT

An elegant straw hat that enhances the resort mood.

Needless to say, the best hat for creating a resort feel is the straw hat. This year, too, various brands, both imported and domestic, are releasing them. In Lanvin's collection, many straw hats with unique silhouettes appeared and graced the runway. The beautiful decorations such as ribbons and flowers were also superb, resulting in a luxurious finish that fully showcases the spirit of a couture house. Enjoy this quintessential summer item in an elegant way.

Straw hat with ribbon (by Lanvin) ¥71,400, scarf ¥178,500 (both from Lanvin Japan)

BEACH SIDE IN LUXURY

Stylish items to decorate your beachside

This season, various designers have released beach goods, resulting in a wide variety of options. Tom Ford has unveiled a glamorous beach towel, featuring a bold retro floral motif for a luxurious finish. Kris Van Assche has released sexy beach shorts and beach pants, while Raf Simons Eastpak has released a futuristic backpack with mesh material and silver-coated leather accents, showcasing a rich selection. Since beach goods are meant to enhance the vacation mood, you'll want to choose a special piece that you'll love.

Top right / (Tom Ford) beach towel

¥189,000 (Tom Ford Japan) Top left: Backpack by Raf Simons Eastpak ¥44,100 (Sun Frères) Bottom: Beachwear by Kris Van Assche Right: ¥25,900, Left: ¥23,500 (both Pred PR)

INSIDE OUT

Reversible wear perfect for resorts has arrived.

Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man's resort wear collection is fascinating. The collection, themed "Sketch of Journey," makes extensive use of reversible garments, maintaining the American traditional and American casual trends that have continued for the past few seasons while venturing into deeper creative territory. Items that appear layered at first glance can be easily transformed; a blazer becomes a rider's jacket when reversed, and a checked jacket becomes a military jacket. A versatile piece that allows for easy arrangement reduces luggage and is perfect for a change of pace, making it sure to be a valuable addition to your travel wardrobe.

Top: A jacket from a collaboration between Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man and Levi's®, ¥82,950. Bottom: A jacket from Comme des Garçons Junya Watanabe Man, ¥89,250. (Both from Comme des Garçons)