Flame Liberator Write Up!
I rarely use Tumblr but it’s easier to link to than a Twitter thread. Here’s a quick runthrough of how I made Lea’s Flame Liberator Keyblade from KH3 (the one in DDD has a different handle, it’s not round like the KH3 one is).
Here’s some ref images:
Let’s get started! I modeled the handle myself, however I’m just not good enough at organic modelling to make the blade. I’m still working on it, and will upload it to Thingiverse when it’s finished. It went from idea to completion in just under a month, so I didn’t have too long to spend trying to model the blade.
Read it all below the break!
Supplies
Here’s the handle I modeled: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/20647-leas-keyblade-flame-liberator-handle-only-wip
Here’s the model I purchased for the blade: https://www.etsy.com/listing/694651403
PLA+ (handle)
Clear PETG (blade)
Sandpaper
Super glue
Bondo/ Wood filler
XTC3D
M3 heat set inserts + screws (optional)
Magnets (optional)
LEDs + Control board (I listed the ones I used below)
Soldering iron + solder
Alligator clips
Blade colors: red, orange, yellow
Handle colors: chrome, metallic red, black gloss
Gloss topcoat
Fabric to wrap the handle
Masking tape
Polyfill to diffuse the LEDs
Tote to check
Process
1. Modelling: The first thing I did was work on the model. I made the handle in Fusion 360, then brought the whole thing into Meshmixer to clean up and slice the model (slicing means cutting it down for your printer). I used Meshmixer to cut the handle into 5 parts (4 for the ring and the handle was separate) and put holes in it for 1/4″ wooden dowels. I also used Meshmixer to cut the handle off the model I purchased and smooth out the very end of the blade.
If you’re planning on 3d printing, I highly recommend getting comfortable with Meshmixer, it’s free and really powerful, but also incredibly simple, one of my favorite tools!
2. Printing: I printed the handle + keychain in eSun PLA+ and the Blade in clear PETG. This is the most straightforward, however clear PETG isn’t really beginner friendly. I definitely recommend testing your settings, and starting with a fresh spool if you’re going to print something this big, it needs to be kept dry.
3. Print Finishing: The chakram handle needs to get sanded and have the handle attached. I gave the rings a good sand with the dremel and then glued it together. I attached the middle of the handle with heat set inserts and m3 screws, then glued it down. This probably isn’t a necessary step but I had the pieces on hand, and I wanted it to be really strong.
After it was all glued together I started refining the finish. Sand with sandpaper, fill seams/ dents with bondo or wood filler. Coat with filler primer, sand some more. We want it to be smoooooooth so the shiny paint looks good.
The blade I glued together in pieces (top 2, then next 2) so I had 2 sections, I poured XTC3D inside and slushed it around as best I could. After that was done I glued those 2 sections together and used a paintbrush on a stick to coat the inside seam with XTC3D for strength. Hindsight I wouldn’t do this this way, I would work base to top and leave the top off until the LEDs were inside.
The very end of the blade is a little different because it goes around the Chakram handle, and needs to come apart for travel. Basically they come on/ off with magnets. This isn’t an ideal solution as I didn’t design it with this in mind, however I realized that it needs to get to Florida then go back home with its new owner so this is what we have. Hopefully the photos make sense, I used a combination of friendly plastic, magnets and epoxy to hold everything together.
4. Painting: Chrome finish paints need a glossy black coat underneath. You can use any paint- black spray paint, black glossy paint, XTC3D over black, etc. As long as the whole thing is glossy black. I should have done a better job sanding/ priming because the chrome paint ended up a bit spotty, but I was in a bit of a time crunch. I definitely handled it too much after priming it black, LPT is to not touch it at all!
Painting is pretty straight forward, for the handle I did chrome first, making sure to let it set fully before masking it off and painting the red. I used Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome and Candy Apple Red.
The blade I used a matte yellow base coat, then an iridescent yellow. The orange and red are acrylics I thinned with airbrush thinner, a lot of airbrush reds are actually pink so I mixed my own.
Seal the fuck out of everything with paint sealer! I put a final layer of XTC3D on the blade because the paint scratched super easily.
5. Electronics: LPT: Figure out how to get your LEDs in first, I had to cut the tip of the blade off and fix it. Would not recommend.
The electronics made me super nervous because I’ve never put LEDs in anything, I haven’t programmed since college, and I was on a time crunch. I read through a bunch of Adafruit tutorials and decided on using the NanoPixel LEDs and a Circuit Playground Express controller. If I had more time I could have ordered something cheaper, but I wanted the reliability + community of these things.
YOU WILL NEED TO SOLDIER THE LEDS. This is the only way to ensure a permanent connection on your wires. All you need is a cheap soldering iron (they’re like $4) and solder.
Adafruit has a bunch of tutorials, here’s the ones I found most useful:
NeoPixel Uberguide
Introducing Circuit Playground Express
Glowing Interactive Staff
Glowing NeoPixel Table (this covers some FastLED stuff I found helpful)
Supply list:
Circuit Playground Express Base Kit
NeoPixels 60 - 1 Meter x2 (they come terminated so you won’t have to cut + solder the LED ends if you get 2x 1 meter strands)
Battery Holder (I know the kit has one, but based on my measurements it would be too big for the handle, so I bought this as well)
Alligator clips (use these to test connections before you solder)
I used FastLED to get the fire animation (link)
There’s a lot to this that I don’t really want to get into, because I’m not an expert, and the guides on Adafruit explain things much better than I can. I found the glowing staff guide the most useful, I just left out the on button (there’s an on/off switch on the battery pack). Basically - connect LEDs and battery to Circuit Playground Express (CPX), and plug the CPX into your computer. If you have the software all set up you just upload the code.
6. Bonus! Travelling: It fits in the bin! I added foam padding to the lid and insides to keep everything safe. just need to make sure it’s extra secure with bubble wrap and padding. The tote has 4 snaps but I closed it with zip ties before flying, TSA will just cut them open if they need to.