MODE DIPLOMATIQUE

MAISON DE PROSE MODE DU MONDE MISE EN RÉCIT HERALDING FASHION WORLDWIDE ALESSANDRO BERGA FOUNDER + L'ÉDITOR [email protected] OFFICIAL PARTNERS GORUNWAY.COM 

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RESET THIS. DADA THAT. _ #Covid19 is consequential. For many existential. It may be about contemplating our inwards, revisiting what we do in our lives. It should not be definitive about our driving purpose where our beliefs are to be questioned, but not to be shaken. #Fashion will again, annoyingly to my sense, bandwagon on the pandemic effects and market it as THE Re-THING. Like all marketing in all spheres nowadays. Re-birth. Re-set. Re-evolution. Re-ignition. Re-inventing. Re-living. Re. Re. Re. And Re. Take @zegnaofficial and their (Re)Set. “THE (RE)SET, "(Re)tailoring the modern man." Entering a new era in men's style, the new #ZegnaFW21 Collection celebrates (Re)invented lifestyles in changing times, designed by @alessandrosartoriofficial. We all are experiencing a new reality concerned with new needs, which lead us to previously unseen lifestyles and attitudes. It is precisely at a time like this, when everything is under discussion, that we, at #Zegna, have decided to (Re)set. We have looked at our roots to (Re)interpret our style codes and (Re)tailor the modern man. Outdoor and indoor come together and a new way of dressing takes hold, where comfort and style blend to create a new aesthetic.” I don’t believe everything is under discussion. We frankly just waiting, passionately, to get back to pre-#covid times to dress and drench into frivolities and famous fêtes. For now it is a long pajama nightmare for all humanity, with somber griefs for many. Fashion may as well reset but as a Dadaist craved back in times not just in hyped #FW21 sloganisms. I look forward for a rupture this season not a détente en trompe l’oeil, where creativity will challenge itself to be a turning point in the meaning of style, bursting a nouvelle nouvelle élegance, beyond a @fendi “What is Normal Today?” These are the tiring times for the stand on disrupting surrealism. Fashion should reject fashion. Re-ject-it. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #MILAN #MFW #MFW2021 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) https://www.instagram.com/p/CKHYwbnnM25/?igshid=1aziiti25ygy9

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#COVID DIPLOMATIQUE : CUES & CLOUT _ BY DESIGN. NOT BY DISASTER _ Sept XXV MMXX _ #MILAN _ We are living in accelerated anti-intellectual times. This is happening across the political, social, ecological and public spectrums. The quickness of social media allows for copy-tastes of paste that do not exactly support thoughtful creative debate. Why not cherish the longer forms? Fashion is intellectual. Fashion has become anti-intellectual. Speed by digital technology added to its unreal production calendar crushed its creative afterwit. By pedestalizing social media, fashion sobered in a somber identity crisis. The descente has been subtle, slow, conniving, manipulating, and manipulated by the industry - with the same mechanisms technology escrowed our tastes and choices for us. Fashion no longer confronts and challenges, afraid of leading. Instead it keeps self-appeasing in a false sense of détente. So we left to ask: what if the individual and individualism were part of the problem? Now that supreme ideas of being equals and equality are rallying everyone, fashion seems to misunderstand us only as demarcated individuals, instead of interdependent ones, including every exclusionary radical cliques and tribes of cognoscenti snobs. Fashion would surely thrive and survive if it went at it with a coalitional philosophy and a vision of solidarity. They - the designers - say they breathe solidarity but they blab so without a good challenge, and it does always arrive in soft tones, especially in these groundbreaking times. I was expecting a cry for fashion bound to be loud in day 3 in Milan. Instead, fashion has reneged on self-critique between its own stewardship and its borrowed citizenship. A mirage. By design. Not by disaster. _ @francescaliberatoreofficial @tods by @walterchiapponi @boss by @ingowilts @elisabettafranchi @philipppleinofficial by @philippplein @versace by @donatella_versace @sportmax by @grazia_malagoli _ #ALESSANDROBERGA L’ÉDITOR #MILANO #FASHION #SS21#MFW #COVID19 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Park Hyatt Milan) https://www.instagram.com/p/CFlCr9TnEnd/?igshid=10u9gqnd9m9hn

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#COVID DIPLOMATIQUE : CUES & CLOUT _ WITH THE MESS YOU QUALIFY WITH THE NESS YOU AMPLIFY WITH THE ESQUE YOU GLORIFY _ Sept XXIV MMXX _ #MILAN _ Charisma is the ability to project confidence and love at the same time. Fashion is about charisma, understated in one must: the -ness out of the mess. Mess is the mesh of ideas that effect the geography of creativity. Claude Montana, Helmut Lang, Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen, Walter Van Beirendonck and many gifted designers rose from their “mess” to their -ness as in What is the Prada-ness? “I’ve always seen it as a community that has a very specific attitude, intellect, aesthetic. The one thing that you can’t really define is what it is, but you feel it is. It exists. It’s present. It’s clearly there. That’s a very important thing for me. It’s also what I like very much about fashion brands. I think most people know, from previous talks and interviews, that I am very specific, and I like a very little amount of brands. That is what a brand needs to have for me to love it: the -ness.” #RafSimons confessed in a digital post-mortem #PradaSS21 with #MiucciaPrada. It reminded me #JohnColtrane’s #jazz “ I start in the middle of a sentence and move both directions at once”. In my opinion, the concept of -ness is an eternal concept, certainly there is a speed and an immediacy in the desire of beauty and in the exhaustion of feminine’s desires that must be considered together with a modern concept of comfort and coolness that is now an integral part of contemporary life. -Ness remains the ever pursuit of essence-ness, or is it that je -ness sais quoi -esque a borghese milanese #LuisaBeccaria’s crowns our dreams? Mess. -Ness. -Esque. _ @prada @rafsimons @maxmara @gennyofficial @luisabeccaria _ #ALESSANDROBERGA L’ÉDITOR #MILANO #FASHION #SS21#MFW #COVID19 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Armani Hotel Milano) https://www.instagram.com/p/CFiPiTGHvBt/?igshid=17ohxm1dkg3w0

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#COVID DIPLOMATIQUE : CUES & CLOUT _ WHO LIVES FEELS MUCH, WHO HEALS FEELS MORE _ Sept XXIII MMXX _ #MILAN _ #Covid19 Calamity? You cannot be a storm for those who have no sky. Let's dispel a myth. Fashion doesn't always open the .. kind but it is worth trying. “My instinct was to respond to these difficult moments with kindness which, just like romance, I consider a manifestation of strength” #AlbertaFerretti. Somewhere inside all of us is the power to change the world. _ @dsquared2 @milaschon_official @fendi @numeroventuno @blumarine @simonettaravizza_official @dolcegabbana @albertaferretti _ #ALESSANDROBERGA L’ÉDITOR #MILANO #FASHION #SS21#MFW #COVID19 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Four Seasons Hotel Milan) https://www.instagram.com/p/CFf43oMHrVj/?igshid=1gg9zx5sytm2g

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#COVID DIPLOMATIQUE : CUES & CLOUT _ WHO LIVES FEELS MUCH, WHO HEALS FEELS MORE _ Sept XXIII MMXX _ #MILAN _ #Covid19 Calamity? You cannot be a storm for those who have no sky. Let's dispel a myth. Fashion doesn't always open the .. kind but it is worth trying. “My instinct was to respond to these difficult moments with kindness which, just like romance, I consider a manifestation of strength” #AlbertaFerretti. Somewhere inside all of us is the power to change the world. _ @dsquared2 @milaschon_official @fendi @numeroventuno @blumarine @simonettaravizza_official @albertaferretti _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #MILANO #FASHION #SS21#MFW #COVID19 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Four Seasons Hotel Milan) https://www.instagram.com/p/CFf4NQhnw0w/?igshid=1dk8hur7d2o9e

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#BEIRUT BERATED, NEVER BENDED. _ My heart and mind are in #Beirut today. If and only if the stock of #nitrate of ammonium fully exploded à #Beyrouth - The #explosion would correspond to about 8% of the power of the explosion of the nuclear bomb dropped on #Hiroshima: 2750 tonnes of ammonium nitrate is the equivalent of 1.155 kilotons of TNT (relative efficiency factor of 0.42) so 2750x0.42 or 1155 tonnes of TNT. The explosion of #Beyrouth would be the equivalent of 7.7% of the explosion of #Hiroshima (15kT). Can’t stress enough how catastrophic the destruction of the port of Beirut is to Lebanon. It is Lebanon’s central economic lifeline. The #BeirutBlast is resulting from various strategic misjudgments which were compounded by a failure of political and economical leaders at the highest echelons in Lebanon to properly employ the means and loans available to them. #Tunisia is living the same dystopian nightmare. Lebanon is almost entirely dependent on imports. Without the port, there will be food and medicine shortages—amid an already collapsing economy, where the Lebanese Lira lost 80% of its currency value. "Your Lebanon is a political knot, a national dilemma, a place of conflict and deception. My Lebanon is a place of beauty and dreams of enchanting valleys and splendid mountains." - #KhalilGibran 1920 There's an Instagram account working to help locate missing persons in the wake of the Beirut explosion: @locatevictimsbeirut. May everyone be reunited with their loved ones so very soon 🇱🇧 Please consider to donate through @lebaneseredcross 🇱🇧 _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR (at Downtown Beirut) https://www.instagram.com/p/CDfMJZlnQja/?igshid=1pwfj8k3dk3co

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EXCLAMATION FASHION _ “Odio il punto esclamativo, questo gran pennacchio su una testa tanto piccola, questa spada di Damocle sospesa su una pulce, questo gran spiedo per un passero, questo palo per impalare il buon senso, questo stuzzicadenti pel trastullo delle bocche vuote, questo punteruolo da ciabattini, questa siringa da morfinomani, questa asta della bestemmia, questo pugnalettaccio dell'enfasi, questa daga dell'iperbole, quest'alabarda della retorica. Quando, come s'usa nei nostri tempi scamiciati, ne vedo due o tre in fila sul finir d'un periodo, che sembrano gli stecchi sul didietro di un'oca spennata, chiudo il libro perché lo sento bugiardo. Adesso v'è anche chi te l'accoppia con l'interrogativo, che par di veder Arlecchino appoggiato a Pulcinella. Tanto odio questa romantica lacrimuccia nera quando la vedo sgocciolare sulla povera candida pagina, che in essa mi immagino di scoprire or la causa or l'effetto, certo il chiaro simbolo di tutti i mali delle nostre lettere, arti e costumi. E se potessi far leggi, bandirei il punto esclamativo dalla calligrafia, dalle tipografie, dalle macchine da scrivere, dall'alfabeto Morse, con la speranza che a non vederlo più gli italiani se ne dimenticassero anche nel parlare e nel pensare, e pian piano espellessero dal loro sangue questo microbo aguzzo il quale dove arriva fa imputridire i cervelli e la ragione e rimbambisce gli adulti, accieca i veggenti, instupidisce i savi, indiavola i santi... Il punto esclamativo è il servo scemo dell'interiezione.” Behind my screen, I expected fashion beyond fashion. Life beyond life. Beauty beyond beauty. Instead the digital litany of virtual and non #SS21 shows, reignited in me #UgoOjetti’s introspections on the urge to use the ! : these #Covid19 fashion declamations portray coutures and creativities .. à bout de souffle. The collective corporation #io of the industry feels a disoriented hurray in a hurry. Festina lente, moda, festina lente. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MILAN #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE https://www.instagram.com/p/CC4kY1un8Sj/?igshid=1nvvyt2maj2o0

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YOUR VOTE IS IN ! _ The @ASVOFF #LOCKDOWN HOME MOVIES are on the platform @FNLNetwork —> https://linktr.ee/fnlnetwork ⚡️⚡️ Scroll down in the home menu under #ASVOF to vote for my movie #SemiotiqueSurrealiste ! 🙏 Deadline for People's Choice is September 1st. Votez et relayez 🙏! Vote and spread the word 🙏! _ #fashion #fashionfilm #film #fnlnetwork #dianepernet #roccoleogaglioti #mode #movies #lockdown2020 #lockdownlife #covid19 #covid_19 #alessandroberga #modediplomatique https://www.instagram.com/p/CBIbZu1HzWq/?igshid=4afibp7wdahw

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LEÏLA MENCHARI DE TUNIS ET D’HERMÈS _ “Our role is to reveal beauty, to emphasise its presence because it is everywhere, obvious or waiting to be discovered, precarious or immortal. Its forms are infinite. It inhabits our senses, our hopes, our ability to dream. Beauty must be handed down like an inheritance." 1927 - 2020 🌹 #LeïlaMenchari decompartmentalized branding scenography by mixed everything together. She had an impressive sense of detail, strict ideas about the rendering, the finishing, the accuracy of colors and the exactitude of taste from all points of finesse. Her window displays had the remarkable ability to unearth rare, precious, and incongruous aspirational objets among the most chic bric-a-brac adeptly chosen to perfectly suit @Hermes’ lifestyle. Her talent to make the colour of style sing recount a story that began in the 1930s in the Medina of Tunis. Born into a family in love with modernity, the bambina loved the fabulous garden that the American #JeanHenson had created at #Hammamet. Then, after fine arts schools and between 1978 and 2013, she spent years revisiting her Tunisian childhood as head of displays and aesthetics at the Hermès flagship, 24 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré with wondrous nomadic tales, olfactory édens and jardins en Méditerranée but mostly, #LeilaMenchari, orchestrated symphonies of silks, styles, sculptures and sounds. Her windows were wanders to travel, with the sun and the moon as mélodies and the arts and the narcissuses as memories. She uncovered our forgotten happiness, and made us feel the resurrections of our promises. The art of Leïla Menchari was joie de l’harmonie chaotique that came from this irrepressible instinct that relentlessly persuades bliss to stop, pause and murmur Je t’aime. I remember Leïla’s smile, a nostalgic orange sunset telling me that anything is possible, that the art of possible is a promise of chemistry still possible. Leïla Menchari, première des Beaux-Arts de #Tunis, Méditerranée du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, incarnat amour et féminité. Promenades de Pensées. Odes de curiosités. Défiées à la Beauté. Allah yarhmek 🇹🇳🇫🇷 _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Hermès) https://www.instagram.com/p/B-nKTrIHXj3/?igshid=qr4vkl8o7sgv

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LES SEPT DIVINES _ Medical equipment isn't what's most important. Many countries are focusing too much on it. The most important things are: 1. Testing capacity 2. Tracing logistics 3. Quarantine of positive cases The better these 3 are executed, the less people end up in hospitals at all. Yet, it is a chain, and any soft link can break the chain. THE foundation remains testing and its missing. Only celebrities, VIPs, and well-connected individuals are getting tested right now. That’s unfair besides irrational. We don't have a good picture of who has the virus. We don't know who to treat or who to quarantine. Socialism for the wealthy, capitalism for the poor is still in force. Trump will win his reelection in a landslide victory (how could anything else happen vs Biden?) and he'll celebrate his "quick" and "efficient" response to the problem that "saved so many lives", and more importantly, the economy. La farce continuera ... Last, simultaneously, five crises in one: - Public health crisis - Economic crisis – deep recession possible with many people losing jobs, GDP contracts, etc - Financial crisis - cracks were showing pre-Covid19 with Repo in Nov, credit seizes up, banks fail, financial rails stop working. These crisis are related but their solutions are different. - Social crisis - socialism rococo vs capitalism de masse with people running out of cash 1929 style - Geopolitical crisis – China asserting themselves, world transitioning from unipolar to multipolar. Israel is living an astounding constitutional crisis. Persians may overthrow the mullah’s, and Wuhan to sweep through Turkey destabilizing Erdogan iron grip. After U.K., France, Italy, Spain in perilous Exit-straits from European Union. Other than that gas stations near me forgot to mark down the price of oil and let’s hope internet bandwidth holds. Sixth crisis? Authoritarian overreach .. on our privacy. Then the crisis in all refugee camps around the world and homelessness in our neighbourhoods: Humanitarian crisis, so that’s 7. Quite the #climatechange .. Will we, citizens, at least come out of the #covid_19 more human not spam-connected? _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR https://www.instagram.com/p/B-OzokFH8q4/?igshid=t9nlw917u32z

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PLACISM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? EPILOGUE _ I identify with @Kerbito, not hoping on his outragé because I wrote about these issues years ago and kept bringing them in solidarity. I, too, was put in situations where I was the offended one only to find my self by speaking up treated as the controversial one. Unfortunately, the average non-white fashion creative cannot identify with contemporary joke spins on inclusivity and diversity. Why? because it’s an opportuni$m circonstancié. No one offended the white entitled men and women in the biased rebuttal @BoF to lecture Kerby and the readers. From their condescending pedestal, on a matter they know absolutely nothing about, they are the living proof that they cannot identify with racism and placism as they have rarely been on the receiving end of it. Except when white women and white human marginalized groups are wrongfully dismissed by their own on equal opportunity and gender integrity. Kerby’s slap is not a racial victimization but a WTF is this still how the fashion system is making a contribution? How such normalized systematic exclusion is tolerated? Instead the system will never “spend a few mins on @PyerMoss.com” to “look at what we’ve done. Hate if you want I can’t stop you, but this is how you lose allies. And y’all about 75% lost me.” The irony of the curse heightens when most of whom trolling are professionals like the @Imran_Amed.s seeking recognition from a ruffian supremacist imperialist colonialist system. Otherwise, how would calling people like #KerbyJeanRaymond who complain about “gaslighted” an “angry man”? An unjust white majority lets you have your whatever fight as long as it’s under their white terms, cross the line and hoarders of insider and outsider snobs will come down on you with their troll’a povera. They never gave a $hit, never will. That’s how the tyranny of positivity discriminates by arguing that the fashion system is compa$$ionate and nouveau and camp. For thee, tolerance is a trend and inclusivity is exclusive. Why bother to believe when you will never belong? _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Paris, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N_wwCH6xT/?igshid=1fifx5unx72sq

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PLACISM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? 5. _ “This is the type of shit that makes me constantly ask myself why the fuck I even bother... people like this are so comfortable being loud and wrong. The commenters don’t do any research, they are hungry for any bit of drama and do no fact checking before accepting bs as fact...” tweeted @Kerbito back in May 2019, the 11th precisely. In a One-11 #AllBlacks, he performed a hell of a digital #Hakka thread, no disrespect intended, that was prémonitoire and alas identical of the (repeated dumb) reactions stirred by his #BoF499. He openly clarifies that “the notion that brand shouldn’t be able to profit or sell luxury goods is the type of stupidity I can’t seem to understand... maybe one of you internet dweebs can explain how it’s ok for every fucking brand on your back can make a dollar off you and i can’t even tho... I’ve shown time and time again that I reinvest every fucking dime into hiring kids that look like us, paying models that look like us, highlighting our community through short films and creating programs for us.” @Niki_I, a bright and intelligent woman tweeted back how he legitimately “went straight #Brooklyn on em. You're doing more in a year than most of us do in our lifetime, in terms of achievements and helping our community. Don't let the catch-22 quandary (that OTHER people create and put on you) fuck with your light or your fight.” The knot is in THAT repetitive c-22, the @bof, pun intended, keep exasperating any designer practicing freedom without ill-antagonizing intentions. Yet the white fashion system keeps getting away with fabricated authenticity and fake accountability with the help of $ubservient media$. A mainstream bigoted system protected by another mainstream bigoted system fuelling polarizing fires. Today the fashion system is deliberately insulting heritages to bank out of uproar$. $candal $ell$. This vilifying “otherness” is marketed indelicately with no clues of relevancy to undoing placism while the non-white raise their “Henny” @Hennessy to such racist indecency. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N9YJSnH69/?igshid=oyu5f77hn9c0

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PLACISM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? 4. _ Never the #fashion system contemplated to embrace how community cultures strive for excellence in their true essence. Invisible but pervasive chattels are gagging creative circles that commune for trust and thrust. Instead of being fashionably celebrated, they are robbed, censored and culturally photoshopped from their brilliance. This is an industry of white sexual predator-dude photographers shooting white dude skateboarders and cute mademoiselles sponsored by white dude brands, executives and editors made cool by black people to sell to crazy rich consumers mainly far Easterners. By the ghetto, even white creatives are exploited by the fashion wasp, as in Apocrita, system. #HediSlimane settled at the Cour des Prud’hommes. Upcoming white designers are entangled in equity partnerships by Goliaths where their uniqueness has become their hinderance. Créativité muselée for commercial conformisms. Do some digging. @Kerbito’s riffraff is not of a primadonna drama but of a crescendo multicultural trauma. Multi because transparency, meritocracy, ingenuity, magnanimity, dignity, honesty, intellectual property and identity are lacking cultures in a fashion system at best bully, at worst racist. I wrote about such outrage, not hate, against injustices in a mankind land where mostly non-white creatives will never have a fair chance to be equals or prophets only to be diminished and trivialized in their quests. When the #AllBlacks perform the #Hakka, eleven rugby, countrymen of all ethnic and color backgrounds transcend togetherness in a sacred ritual with unbound belief. #NewZealand embraced, decades early on, its indigenous heritage as a badge of honour. A country, responsibly, ignited its collective psyche into a tolérance d’accueil by teaching the history and the culture of the great #Maori people. In turn, what fashion has taught us about tolerance? The white fashion system grinds geographies of races, humanities and couturiers without common $ense and $hame. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N50LXHuYn/?igshid=1tctc2xrmxncu

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PLACISM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? 3. _ @Kerbito and @DapperDanHarlem are selling, with panache, to a young, idealistic and affirmed generation raised in a noisy digital universe of dizzying immateriality, without reverting to the most extreme impostures of the fashion system in exploiting feminist moralism, ecology fatalism, gender ageism and community subculture dualism. "By replicating ours and excluding us — you prove to us that you see us as a trend." @PyerMoss’s #KerbyJeanRaymond wrote it all @BoF and @ImranAmed exploiting shamelessly #diversity efforts from cultural distorsions. Everyone within the #fashion industry knew they never mean inclusivity as much as they will never mean ecology. It’$ a trend. The two questions that leaves me perplexed is: is this a beef? is this a buzz? Both #pyermoss and #bof are trending. I trust Kerby’s 60%, 80%, 90% and 100% “had it” is a bold basta! against a superficial scene disguised in a tolerant creative community. Fashion does not commune. Fashion connives. Fashion is the most comfortable fascist-racist system. But beware faux glam has now an official #SS20 dissident: Kunta Kerby Kaepernick Kinté ! He is beyond bundled in his #Roots to defy white strategies of cunnings and deceptions by his fashion, his critique, his black-power resistance, and his anti-colonial praxes. There is no community if we don’t commune. Communities don’t start with an industry, they start with people that empower people. Instead it’s the uncomfortable and the unsafe. Kerby, alas, experienced both by bending his instincts against #BoF’s designs to have him, against his will, speak on a panel and to have him participate to a party where the black community at large was disrespected, insulted and used in the name of embrace. Then why not compound it all by treating him in their press rebuttal as an “angry black man”? The disdain of communities by treating them as insular cliques held to gather not together. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Paris, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N4eN2HIOO/?igshid=vpbz4psc0yth

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PLACISIM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? 2. _ #Affirmativefashion is the necklace for the etymology of community (common-munis) as “shared substance” — Are we wondering if gathering around a shared substance isn’t always a good thing when we read @Kerbito? The success of colonial white supremacy was convincing clever Africans and African-Americans to be #rational about anti-blackness. To be #logical about colonialism. Same with the all marginalized subculture communities. They want them to be #calm about unhumaning. It’s picked up by the clercs and the book keepers like the @ImranAmed. Imagine if a #MahatmaGandhi on his trips to #London, renounced, because of @lvmh’s investments, to dismiss the very fight he was entrusted with by his country: INDEPENDANCE IN AUTHENTICITY. RIP #Gandhi had a soul, #BoF is a product of a white @McKinseyCo system. What do you expect? #Fashion is even way superficial that it moved on the #inclusion and #diversity B$ becoming instantaneously the champion of #climatechange, #$ustainability and #ecology. Appalling how they take us for dumbs with myopia up their minds thinking they are fooling us. Take les #CahiersduCinema, you will understand that #ImranAmed missed his #Truffaut opportunity to become an authentic, beyond a successful, publisher. FYI, the minute I saw @voguebusiness on the market with all their @condenast might, I knew the #BoF500 years numbered. Pure strategy. The @voguemagazine observed then with their capabilities they are full force way more relevant than a business magazine trying to be too much themes of too much things. Critiquing, Courrier International and Wall Street Journal of Fashion in one. Even betrayed, Kerby practiced hardcore persistence like the @DapperDanHarlem, both “getting checks but checking (the system) out”. They want to get these checks with dignity without catering to the white supremacy by selling their community short. Business of. Fierce. Not. Farce. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Paris, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N3MaKH-_i/?igshid=b8plm68nglj2

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PLACISIM BEYOND RACISM: IS THE @PYERMOSS TABERNACLE DRIP CHOIR DRENCHED IN THE @BOF? PROLOGUE _ It’s not about accolades, it’s about authenticity. @Kerbito spoke for and on behalf of what @DapperDanHarlem had always fought for. @Gucci’s #MarcoBizzari + @Alessandro_Michele banked on the cultural appropriation post-indignation. @BoF’s @ImranAmed just did it to the “rookie” by dismissing him of the #Bof500 cover dissing in the process ethics of journalism. Covers are decided when you reach out to a persona and explicitly elect them as your sounding board. The real question is: what if #KerbyJeanRaymond got to be on this #bof cover? We might have missed an opportunity to read a piece from him where commonalities against cohesion on societal issues were denounced and where interrelationships against infrastructure were exposed. The fashion system is still not at all equipped to embrace communities without prejudices only to treat them like $cene$. His dear friend @AuroraJames said it elegantly “I don’t have an industry, I have a family”. Kerby played nice and open, even he had to bend to the conniving methods not the convinced-for-cause ones out of respect for peers to speak, from an insider bench, heck trenches, about his community. Instead, he experienced the “reste à ta place!”, a vicious, quietly violent and intellectually degrading placism way more toxic than open racism because it robbed him from an on-the-spot contrarianism. I've seen lots of communities struggle to hold diverse opinions and ultimately settle on squeezing out calls for nuance. Praise the lord he did not. He spook up after tears crippled his community and his dignity in a fête foireuse. He had one more time a bad taste of a cunning fashion society à Paris. Now #ImranAmed, a “brown and gay“ as he wrote from an Indian descent, was happy to be adopted and absorbed until he dissolved as a “one of them” by the white system of fashion, never contemplating that the very blog he started out of #Toronto, could have championed, diversity when he became successful, by promote-in real #affirmativefashion. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE (at Paris, France) https://www.instagram.com/p/B3N1hiOHrVS/?igshid=4jjjk2soyj97

[modediplomatique]

CHANEL D’ELLES _ Now that the hype is dying a little. It’s time to say it. I suggest someone capable d’imaginer @chanelofficial. #VirginieViard’s by the book just isn’t cutting it. I want the woman to be successful because she took over one of the toughest legacy jobs in the fashion business. But her gourgandine coincée in this #SS20 Parisienne is not what Gabrielle had invented. #CocoChanel obsessed over being her-self of what will happen and went for it where her imaginaire defeated codes. So did #KarlLagerfeld. I will be taken for a mad but I believe @pppiccioli’s narrative is at its epilogue @maisonvalentino. I sense an essoufflement since a year. It’s subtle but look closely, his strong affirmation post-2017 is fading. Promoting inclusivity, diversity and humanity of his wonderful ateliers is noble - #YSL did it but did not let define his maison. It was done en filigrane. In the case of #PierPaoloPiccioli, it’s genuine and commendable that societal principles and commercial profit coincided with his personal creative credo: his collettività vitae started as an acclaimed parenthèse is drifting into a norm. It’s not Valentino. Time to change. Why not chez Chanel à la Gianfranco Ferré de Dior? I even contemplate a duo with @bouchra_jarrar, where her sartorial sublimé français will drape his romanticismo italiano sophistiqué for a nouvelle #Chanel sublimée. Et Virginie Viard? #Valentino is not a bad idea or ultime folie convincing #ChristianLacroix. The “après moi @realMrValentino le déluge” would approve both. #SarahBurton keeps harping on one idea: imagining #AlexanderMcQueen. Ireland inspired a poetic runway where a 300-year-old beetling couture whispered timeless modernity. And @demnagvasalia keeps refining one idea: a Nová vlna stylistic dramaturgy defying soviétisés of the Komsomolskaja Pravda. Where @Balenciaga fits? In #DemnaGvasalia’s open imagination to Cristóbal’s maestria. Imaginations not homages distinguish fashion houses. At the end of this #fashion month where @louise_trotter_ René démesuré @Lacoste was my favorite, a neo linfa is to be needled. Démesurées. D’Elles. _ #ALESSANDROBERGA | L’ÉDITOR #PARIS #PFW #MODEDIPLOMATIQ (at Cour Des Vosges) https://www.instagram.com/p/B3GY8z1n162/?igshid=1r4alj0t5hj59