March of the Living
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March of the Living
March of the Living
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Gisela's Journey
Gisela’s Journey
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My first Op-Ed for The Jewish Advocate, a local Boston based newspaper. The story is about my experience up to and during the March of the Living.
Mount Auburn Cemetery: Where the Elite go to Sleep
originally written 7/21/14
Boston is one of the few cities in America where your family or friends won’t give you weird looks for wanting to visit a cemetery. There are several small burial grounds that dot the freedom trail and are constantly frequented by tourists. If you have seen the cemeteries on the freedom trail they are some of the oldest in the city, but not the most memorable.
Take a short ride off the beaten path over the Charles River is Mount Auburn Cemetery. This is no colonial era cemetery. Thousands of decorative tombstones, crypts, monuments, and memorials are spread throughout 175 acres of sprawling botanical landscape. Over 90,000 people are buried at Mount Auburn. Over 60 are listed as most notable from business tycoons to academic scholars and famous poets to artists. Basically if a person from Cambridge founded, invented, published, created something valuable in the Victorian era they were buried at Mount Auburn.
Founded in 1831, this posh land for the dead was America’s first large scale arboretum and botanical graveyard. From its’ conception it was important to the founders that the cemetery would not be as eerie and depressing. Mount Auburn is meticulously maintained and a serene location for bird watchers and families to walk or drive through. Stephen Jackson, plant records manager is in charge of a small group of employees that survey, manage, and grow thousands of plants and trees for the cemetery.
Mount Auburn is defined as an arboretum because not only do they have 5,000 trees on property, but over 150 varieties. Jackson is a certified horticulturalist and has the uncanny ability to memorize nearly every tree by its scientific name. Most of the trees have metal tags on them that will state their name (informal and scientific), date planted, and a serial number. At his office Jackson has all the trees serial numbers in a database to keep exact track of what is growing in the cemetery.
When Jackson tells friends he works at a cemetery they definitely find it strange. However to him working at Mount Auburn is a horticulturalists dream. Jackson and his co-workers grow the cemetery’s plants in three state of the art green houses and outdoor gardens. In the nurseries they can plant seedlings or graft young plants to produce larger plants more rapidly. The first perk to working in the green house is the employees are allowed to grow their own vegetables for personal use. Another perk of working at Mount Auburn is equally morbid as hilarious at the same time.
“After you work here for five years you get a free cremation and 20 per cent off your burial plot,” said Jackson.
It’s a freaky bonus no doubt. He’s usually so occupied with his work that he’s only reminded of being in a cemetery when he see’s a funeral procession happening. Head to the center of the cemetery and you’ll see what looks like a massive chess piece. The Washington Tower was built completely out of granite in the 1850s and is the best observation tower in Cambridge. The panoramic views of the entire city of Boston are exceptional and the last thing you’d expect to find in any ordinary cemetery. Whenever you decide to visit Mount Auburn, you’ll appreciate what it takes to make a graveyard a beautiful place for the living and the dead.
The Lady Behind the Portrait: ISGM
originally written 8/8/14
Isabella Stewart Gardner stood in front of a red and gold oriental arabesque fabric with a permanent stance of anticipation. She had an intent gaze faced straight ahead and on her milky white face her lips quivered through a tiny smile. She flaunted her figure with black ‘V’ neck gown and wore a choker of pearls with a ruby around her neck. Her tight outfit exaggerated her hourglass body with two strings of pearls wrapped around her waist. Gardner’s shoulders were back, arms beside her, as her hands gently held one another. An illusion of light made the top half of her body glow while the bottom half of her gown was casted in deep shadows.
Over a 120 years ago artist John Singer Sargent $3,000 was commissioned to paint her portrait, which now hangs in the Gothic Room of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. Sargent was famous for his portraitures and captured a life-sized image of Gardner. He had an uncanny ability to create light in his paintings making Gardner shine in an ethereal sunlight. From only looking at the painting there was no way to tell that this woman more than a dainty philanthropist. Take an hour walking tour of the museum and you’ll learn much more than what meets the eye.
“You either loved her or hated her,” said Ray Oliva, tour guide at the ISGM.
When her portrait was first exhibited at Boston’s St. Botolph Club in 1888 Gardner received wide acclaim as well as snarky criticism. Her portrait was very unusual for the time. Women’s portraits were always seated and commonly painted as a profile. In Gardner’s portrait she was standing, looking forward, and wore a provocative dress. People went further to pointing out that the pattern of the fabric behind her head symbolized a halo and crown. Critics claimed Gardner wanted to portray herself as a modern ‘Madonna’. The unwanted attention made Gardner’s husband request that she did not display the painting again until after his death. Her portrait was moved into the Gothic Room and kept private from the public until she passed away in 1924.
Gardner didn’t take the heart what people thought about her. Her female peers looked down on her adventurous lifestyle traveling the world and when she married Boston’s most eligible bachelor John Lowell Gardner. Some times it was just the fact that she was from New York City. She was a small woman only at 4’ 11’’, but was never afraid to express her opinions and be the boss. When she hired Sargent to do her portrait she had him re-render her face 9 times until she was satisfied. It wasn’t the large sum of money that made him put up with her bold personality, but they were also long time friends. She allowed Sargent for several years to use the Gothic Room as his studio.
Gardner was very meticulous person especially when it came to building her home in Fenway and how she wanted her large art collection to be displayed. The Gothic Room was made to mimic a medieval church and displayed prominent Christian art from the era. A large rose window and stained glass made the dark wooden walls of the room light up. There were paintings of Christ, his disciples, and wooden statuary of saints that dated back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Playing off the banter of her ‘Madonna’ image she placed her painting in the corner of the room with a large Spanish chest in front to resemble an altar. When this room was opened after her death, people could always view the immortalized image of Gardner surrounded by her collection of religious art.
“There are no accidents in this building,” said Oliva.
There are over 2,500 objects, paintings, sculptures, furniture, and textiles that she collected in her lifetime. Gardner specifically designed the layout of each room. The first three floors of the building are galleries and the fourth floor was Gardner’s apartment where lived the last days of her life. The floor has now been converted into offices for the Museum staff.
Walk through the glass corridor from the New Wing to the Palace and prepare to be sent back in time. Venice was one of her favorite travel destinations and she didn’t spare a penny to make the interior courtyard look like a Venetian piazza. In the center is a one of a kind Roman mosaic called Medusa. It was purchased by the Gardner’s 1897 and transported in several blocks to the museum. In and around the garden are statues from ancient Rome, Greece, and Egypt.
It took Gardner over three decades to build up her impressive art collection. All the rooms have named after particular artists or regions. The Tapestry room holds wall length renaissance tapestries Gardner bought in Brussels that depicted scenes from the Life of Cyrus the Great and Scenes from the Life of Abraham. It is in Gardner’s will that no piece of artwork be sold or moved from their original display. The tapestries were transported to Brussels once in a hundred years for a critical restoration. Gardner would have rolled over in her grave if she knew that thirteen priceless works of art were stolen from the museum in 1990. In the Dutch Room visitors can see the empty frames where for example, Rembrandt’s Storm on the Galilee was once displayed.
Despite that unfortunate event, the Gardner museum will always stand the test of time. She left a 1 million endowment to the museum that would be worth close to 14 million today. Every dollar from her endowment and additional donations go into the preservation of Gardner’s home and art collection. Two years ago the contemporary designed New Wing was completed in addition to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The extension was built to attract contemporary art to the Gardner and relieve tourist traffic on the original building. It has a contemporary gallery, a theater for concerts, a library and lounges for people to spend their time in. Gardner would have been proud to see her legacy expanding well into the future.
Frost Ice Bar
originally written 7/24/14
I didn’t know Montse was coming to Boston today from Florida until she sent me a Snapchat of her plane ticket. She had a job interview set up for first thing tomorrow morning. We met up around 5 o’clock in the afternoon and took the ‘T’ to Haymarket. As we walked toward Faneuil Hall Montse said how strange it was to be in Boston when it’s hot out. She could only remember how freezing it was all the time. There is only one place to go in Boston to reminisce about winter in mid-July. When we got to the back entrance of Faneuil Hall we saw a sign that pointed to Frost Ice Bar.
Montserrat Bravo is originally from Mexico and she still retains a thick accent. She is my only high school friend I remained in contact with during and after college. She went to Boston University for her undergraduate studies. Thinking about her was partly the reason I considered applying there for graduate school.
We approached an elevator that had a light moving around it that said “Frost Ice Bar”. On the wall to the left a projector repeated a clip from a local news station talking about the frost bar. It felt like we were entering a ride at Universal Studios. We get to the third floor and became overwhelmed by lights and a wall of TV panels as the staff greeted us. We each paid $13 dollars for admission, proved we were of age, and they gave me a card the bartenders could scan for our drink tab. We put our belongings in a locker and I expected to get a full winter ensemble. The bar would fee like a day in January at 21 degrees. All we got was a big purple poncho with a hood made out of winter coat material and a pair of black cotton mittens.
They brought us into the prep room that was at 40 degrees to watch a video we didn’t pay attention too. We were just too excited to see what the bar was going to look like. We opened the door and we got two steps in before an employee took our picture for a overpriced souvenir. The whole room was backlit with blue lighting and ice covered the entire room except the floor. We only had shirts and pants under the ponchos and Montse didn’t wear socks. The cold hit us like a brick wall. Around the small bar were massive chandeliers made of big ice cubes. Spread throughout the room were ice blocks that had baseballs, rubber ducks, and vodka bottles encapsulated in ice. There were ice carvings that you can stick you head through such as a mermaid. The bar was carved of course out of ice. The ends of the bar were carved into the shape of the iconic Zakim Bunker Hill Bridge. We both got one drink, both pre-made, both vodka, and mine was red and hers was yellow for $11 each.
There were a few ice booths for people to sit in and one wall had a JFK picture in ice replicating the image of the Obama “Hope” poster. On the far end of the room was a giant swan ice sculpture that people can sit in. We sat in there for a few minutes and took a couple pictures. To take off our gloves for each cellphone pic was brutal and the cold was definitely getting to us. There were about 30 people in the center of the bar, chatting and feeding off body warmth. One man had shorts and sandals under his poncho. I asked if he was cold and he said he’s wearing sunglasses so people don’t see him tearing. When Montse and I finished our drinks we couldn’t last any longer. It only took about 30 minutes in the ice box to end our time at the Frost Ice Bar.
After we parted ways at the end of the evening I had my fingers crossed that she would get the job tomorrow. I would be overjoyed to have a friend as good as Montse to be around for a while.
Codzilla!
originally written 7/7/14
I’m not what you call a high thrills kind of person. I’ll never jump from a plane, I hate rollercoasters, and I’ll never risk my life to dangle from a hot air balloon. Ironically enough when I decided to buy a $29 ticket to ride a speedboat called, Codzilla, I didn’t realize what I had got myself into. I arrived late afternoon at the Long Wharf in Boston Harbor. The 90-degree heat was so unrelenting I prayed for rainfall. Unknowingly, I would be soaked from head to toe by the time I returned to the dock.
Painted with red and yellow stripes and fins, this monster 70-foot boat stares you down with big yellow eyes and a mouth filled razor sharp teeth. The 2,800-horse power behemoth can sit up to 135 people, but our group filled less then 30 seats. I had a row to myself toward the back of the boat. I saw water droplets on the seats, but I had no clue this was the splash zone. The speakers started blasting ACDC’s, “Back in Black” and Codzilla’s first mate Liz jumped up and down to the music filled with energy. As we slowly made are way through the no wake zone to open water Liz told the passengers to hold on to any loose items, your kids, and your underwear.
Liz joked how Captain Tim didn’t always pay attention for the green buoy a signal for the end of the no wake zone.
“He’s too busy trying to sell his “My Little Pony” figurine collection on Ebay,” she said.
Liz had us all yell “green buoy!” and Captain Tim took the boat full throttle from 6 to 40 miles per hour in a matter of seconds. I gripped the sides of my seat for dear life when the boat lifted half way into the air as it sped up. Liz said we were headed toward Deer Island sewage treatment plant where “Codzilla” was born.
“This is the second largest sewage treatment plant in the country, the first being Yankee Stadium,” she said.
When the boat came to a stop near the plant Liz told us the story about how a codfish became accidently mutated from the plant. She theatrically acted out how her and her father were fishing one day and caught Codzilla in their net. The children in front looked at her in disbelief, but she exclaimed it were true.
“The fish swallowed my dad!” Liz cried. “But my dad was a chain-smoker and Codzilla ‘hack hack’ spit him out.”
Liz is a trained actress and was key to making the Codzilla experience entertaining besides the fact we were whipping around in a speedboat. At the peak of the thrill ride was when the boat began to suddenly spin in circles and take off at full speed. At the captain’s will the Codzilla would hockey stop left and right and waves of water splashed over the front of the boat toward me and the people in the back rows. I let out a few good screams as the boat swerved and the cold water doused me in the face. The least thrilling part of the trip was for what it cost, the speedboat ride only lasted 20 minutes. The information for the ride said 40, but it took up to 10 minutes to get in and out of the no wake zone each way. That was when Liz got up to interact with the crowd. Besides those minor details, I still don’t consider myself to be an adrenaline junkie, but I thoroughly enjoyed my wet and wild ride on the Codzilla.
DigBoston Articles Currently Unavailable
Due to Dig Boston re-designing their website my articles that I posted on here are currently missing from their content. Contact me if you want actual copies of the pieces.
Image by: Scott Murray
Clover Food Lab is opening the first 24-hour spot in Central Square. Here's the deal.
A new house of BBQ and rum by the Garden.
(top) Brass Union
(bottom) Akai Ryu Shabu & Sushi
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Checking in with the new sushi and shabu oasis in Cambridge.
Bonapita-new pita spot in DTX
Getting familiar with Brazil's beloved cocktail, check out this article I wrote for Dig Boston!
My restaurant review of Mama Maria in Boston's North End