Beneath the Skies

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Goodnight, guys, I’ll see you tomorrow.

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Standing on the banks of Saint Mary Lake, you can almost forget it’s 30 degrees out and the winds are gusting.

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Leaving Wyoming, and heading to Montana, the landscape slowly leveled off until we could again see the Rocky Mountains far in the distance. There is an invisible threshold in Montana after which it seems like you are in a picture frame surrounded on all sides by the mountains. Just you, the mountains, and the big sky.

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Old Faithful, right on time as usual.

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Walking through Yellowstone is like walking through a sci-fi movie.

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The road from Grand Teton to Yellowstone is pretty, pretty, pretty, pretty good.

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Victory hot chocolate at Persephone Bakery back in Jackson. It was not quite winter yet, even at 7200 feet elevation, but the wind and rain were out in force. Plus, we had just been living in 80 degree weather a week ago, so this was all a bit shocking.

Not shown here: the homemade marshmallow Brittany so rudely hoarded to herself.

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The Grand Tetons were the one and only place we came across big wildlife while hiking. It is easy to see a moose and think, “adorable!”, but then you remember they weigh about 1000 pounds, and can be just as defensive as bears. Thankfully, they seemed completely unfazed by our presence.

This was taken on our hike up the mountain, and was probably (hopefully) a safe enough distance away. On our hike back down, the moose had started grazing directly next to the trail, and we retreated before I had a chance to take a picture. 

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Hiking to Inspiration Point in the Grand Tetons.

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Just earlier this year, the Anvil Motel in Jackson, WY got a facelift by the former brand director at Ace Hotel, transforming itself into the Anvil Hotel. The original bones (cheap, small, spartan rooms) are still there, but now it feels like a place any respectable hipster would happily take a selfie in. 

So, obviously, we loved it. And purchased a custom-made Woolrich blanket.

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Brittany really liked our hotel room in Jackson, WY. 

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Moonrise over Wyoming.

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Bangkok Thai, home of neon lights, menu wall, and the best damn Thai food in all of Wyoming.

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A Brief Interlude

If you are just joining us, here is the story thus far: 

9/26

left pgh, drove to Detroit

dinner Mabel Grey

9/27

brunch at The Dime Store

walk to Socra Tea

Motown Museum

The Heidelberg Project

Belle Island, conservatory

snack at Church's Chicken

John King Books

dinner at Chartreuse

9/28

breakfast at Brooklyn Street Local

picked up sandwiches at the Detroit Institute of Bagels

drive through Dearborn, MI

Air Zoo in Kalamazoo, MI

lunch at the Air Zoo picnic pavillion (bagel sandwiches)

Indiana Sand Dunes National Lakeshore

Dinner at Ramen House Shinchan in Palatine, IL

Ice cream at Comet Frozen Custard in Palatine

Hotel in Madison, WI

9/29

breakfast at Bassett Street Brunch Club

Brief stop at Cave of the Mound National Park

House on the Rock

lunch at Freddy Valentines Public House in Spring Green, WI

coffee/books at Arcadia Cafe in Spring Green

just-in-time pie at Norske Nook in Osselo, WI

hotel in Minneapolis, MN

9/30

breakfast at Manny's Tortas in The Midtown Global Market

The Minneapolis Institute of Art

Walked around the Walker Art Center sculpture garden

Gandhi Mahal for dinner

The Moon Palace bookstore

Coffee and tea at Peace Cafe

10/1

breakfast at Tiny Diner in Minneapolis

sweets at Pattisserie 46 in Minneapolis

lunch at Bread and Circus in Sioux Falls, SD

Shopping on Phillips Ave in Sioux Falls, Zandbroz Variety store and LOT 2029

Seeing the eponymous falls in Falls Park in Sioux Falls

stay in Kadoka, SD

10/2

drive to Badlands National Park

breakfast at Cedar Pass Lodge

climbing on rocks in Badlands

Wall Drug

drive to Jewel Cave for the discovery tour

Mt Rushmore, allegedly

dinner at Murphys Bar and Grill in Rapid City, SD

drive to Hulett, WY

10/3

breakfast at Red Rock Cafe in Hulett

drive to Devil's Tower

stop to buy jackets in Buffalo, WY

best Thai food ever at Bangkok Thai in Thermopolis, WY

drive through Crazy Canyon Woman Road and Bighorn National Forest

stay at Anvil Hotel in Jackson, WY

10/4

breakfast at Persephone Bakery in Jackson

picked up (delicious) sandwiches at Local Butcher

picnic in Grand Teton after hiking from String Lake to Inspiration Point

hot chocolate at Persephone Bakery (homemade marshmallow!)

shopping in Jackson

dinner at Glorietta Trattoria

10/5

picked up sandwiches from Local Butcher (again, because delicious)

drove to Yellowstone

saw Old Faithful, Riverside, and Grand geysers erupt while walking around Upper Geyser Basin

dinner at Red Tractor Pizza in Bozeman, MT

stayed at Ramada Inn in Bozeman

10/6

sandwiches at the Co-Op in Bozeman

drove to Glacier National Park

hiked near St Marys Lake

dinner at Taco Johns (never again)

stay at Glacier Peaks Hotel and Casino in Browning, MT

10/7

beautiful, grueling hike to Grinnell Glacier

dinner at Jackpot Restaurant in casino (which is also the hotel)

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It is impossible (at least, say, with an iPhone and no photography skills) to capture how amazing the drive from Crazy Woman Canyon through Bighorn National Forest is. It is the epitome of beautiful.

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While driving along 90 West in Wyoming, you will start to see signs for scenic Route 16. The (very scenic) route takes you through the southern tip of Bighorn National Forest, cutting pretty much across the center of Wyoming. You can get on Rt 16 in Buffalo, WY, but you owe it to yourself to first take a long detour via Crazy Woman Canyon Road.

Although only about 14 miles long, Crazy Woman Canyon Rd can easily take 45 minutes or more to traverse. The first 7.5 miles is all dirt as you approach the forest. It is difficult to tell how the road will continue into the forest, and when you suddenly reach the entrance, it is as if it appeared magically. Rocks replace dirt along the remaining 6 miles inside the canyon, and the one-ish lane road urges you to drive slowly. Of course, you probably won't even hit 15 MPH as you gawk at the amazing wilderness around you.

Finally, after winding your way up a few thousand feet of elevation, you come out of the canyon into the forest proper, and continue on via Rt 16.

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On the road from Devil’s Tower to Jackson Hole.