a tailoring archive

sideblog

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This is an archive of images and text found across the internet relating to bespoke tailoring, pattern making, proper garment fitting, and occasionally dressmaking.

Images I post are not mine unless otherwise stated.

I work in bespoke tailoring, primarily suit jacket making.

Please enjoy!

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Diagram of the back of a suit showing the marks used by tailors to indicate the alterations to be made after a fitting let out, take in, shortening, lengthening, etc.

From The Art of Fitting Gentlemen. If anyone wants more of this, let me know, I have more info.

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Left: Lower armhole, a common sight amongst standard ready-to-wear and even MTM jackets. Notice the action of raising the arm leads to pulling on the jacket back, and a slight bat-wing effect.

Right: A well fitted, higher armhole means more comfort and increased mobility. Less drag lines are present, indicating that the client is able to move their arms decently without disturbing the rest of the jacket.

Only a good bespoke tailor will understand the value of a good armhole.

Source unknown, likely a midcentury German textbook

[noodlesinbroth]

What's something in your life that makes you happy?

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One of the reasons why a lot of vintage cloth is so much more long lasting.

Frank Shattuck is a highly respected bespoke tailor who uses old school methods. He is based in the state of New York.

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Canvassed front (forepart) of a bespoke suit jacket. Note the concave roll of the bridle on the lapel, and the well-shaped canvas.

Work from Florian Sirven on Instagram

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Group of young men in double-breasted suits, likely between 1930-1940s

Note how even though the suits are oversized, the collar hugs their necks really well.

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Hand padded under collar

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A bespoke method of shaping an undercollar for a jacket.

Source unknown

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Common stitches used in bespoke jacket making:

Whip stitch

Running stitch

Back stitch (same method is used for pick stitch)

Cross stitch or catch stitch

Baste stitch

Pad stitch (used for canvas assembly)

Pad stitch, smaller version used for lapel

Blanket stitch

Here's a link for other photos and more descriptions

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An interesting method of creating a suit jacket pattern by draping and darting lining on a client.

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Suit for a client with very hunched and uneven shoulders. From a German tailoring book. Google translated captions below:

[tradlads]

Gieves & Hawkes

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Different methods of cutting a canvas based on the customer’s body type.

From jwleebenchmade on instagram

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Front of a bespoke jacket showing the insides including: hand-padded body canvas, pockets, and basted hem and vent. No fusible is used.

Image from sartoria_lascala on instagram

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Diagram showing body canvas construction. Darts are cut into the canvas to create shape. The canvas is a fuseless interlining that helps mold the garment to the body. Heat and sweat will help it shape more over time.

From The The Cutter and Tailor Magazine, date unknown

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Bespoke womens jacket. The white stitch lines, aka basting, are temporary and hold all layers and shaping together before the garment is finished and given a final press