I can’t think of the proper words to describe this.
$LAYYYTER
Keni
Aqua Utopia|海の底で記憶を紡ぐ
tumblr dot com
we're not kids anymore.
dirt enthusiast
Lint Roller? I Barely Know Her
Game of Thrones Daily

❣ Chile in a Photography ❣

祝日 / Permanent Vacation
let's talk about Bridgerton tea, my ask is open
h

Janaina Medeiros
Stranger Things
Monterey Bay Aquarium

ellievsbear
Cosmic Funnies
2025 on Tumblr: Trends That Defined the Year
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Mike Driver

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@parabellumproductions
I can’t think of the proper words to describe this.
Hey tumblr, it’s been a while. I went up to Animethon last weekend and was invited to a pirate Free! shoot at the WEM ship. Here’s the video, hope you enjoy. Cosplay credits are over at my Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/parabellumproductions/ Pirate Free group was organized by @neoncrook
I’m like never on tumblr.
I did a sequel to the Taste of Animethon Alpaca video from last year, enjoy.
#Cosplayer JokerLolibel with an amazing Movie version #Cinderella! #cosplay #disney #submission https://www.facebook.com/diana.bem.54 http://jokerlolibel.deviantart.com https://instagram.com/jokerlolibel/
Visit Sharemycosplay.com for more cosplay goodness!
Metal Gear Solid V ~ Cosplay
by Rick Boer
T H E S P O O P S O F H A L L O W E E N T O W N
Happy month of halloween!! Obviously I HAD to do Halloween Town Sora, so I, uh, pretty much threw this together hahaha. More to come throughout the month.. probably! Tbh all the photos are like, chest up.
(huge shoutout to scrap fabric, craft foam and photoshop for helping me do this without making the entire costume HAH)
Edmonton Expo cosplay vid is up.
Photographic Enlargers 101
{Axomat 5 enlarger, by Poppet With a Camera}
It’s time for our next installment of the Beginner’s Guide to Film Photography. Now that we’ve discussed the basics of camera formats, exposure, lenses and film, it’s time to take the next step: printing in the darkroom. If you are planning to try your hands in darkroom printing, you should be familiar with the different types of enlarger, their components and mechanism. So here’s a little 101.
One of the most essential darkroom printing tools, a photographic enlarger is used to enlarge a photograph while producing prints from the negative. The mechanism works by projecting an image from the negative, through a lens, onto a photographic paper, thereby exposing the paper and creating a print of that image. You can print an image to a size larger than that of the negative, simply by adjusting the ratio between the distance from lens to the photo paper and the distance from lens to the negative.
For seasoned photographers, however, an enlarger does more than just printing and enlarging. Acclaimed photographer Ansel Adams would often use an enlarger for dodging and burning as a means to controlling the brightness and contrast levels of his final prints. Adams also explains how an enlarger helps take more creative control over the final print: “Dodging and burning are steps to take care of mistakes God made in establishing tonal relationships.”
In simple terms, dodging is the technique of lighting the dark areas on a print, while burning is the process of darkening the overexposed areas on a print. In either case, the process works by setting different exposure times for different areas on the print. The way you can do this is by setting the timer in your photographic enlarger, following a simple rule: The longer the exposure time, the darker would be the final print.
Basic Parts of an Enlarger
Photographic enlargers are available in a wide variety of designs, but almost all of them consist of the following parts.
Enlarger Head – The head is basically the light source of an enlarger. In a vertical enlarger, the head is pointed downward, and projects light on the negative, through the lens, on to the photographic paper. The light source provides even illumination across the negative, and it does so in two different ways. Depending on the light source, there are mainly two types of enlarger head. Let’s take a look at each type.
Condenser head – This type of enlarger head consists of two large condensing lenses, usually plano-convex lenses. The curved surfaces of the two lenses are placed face-to-face, which helps collimate the light rays and project them downward, perpendicular to the negative. The strong light beam helps produce prints with high contrast and sharpness, but may also emphasis any scratches or grains on the negative.
Diffuser Head – If you prefer low-contrast prints, consider opting for a diffuser head. This type of enlarger head uses an opaque glass to scatter the light rays and project diffused light on the negative, so as to produce prints that are low in contrast and sharpness. One advantage of using a diffuser head is that it helps to hide any grains or scratches.
{Darkroom equipment to print photographs by Ggia, CC BY-SA 2.5}
Column – The column holds the enlarger head steady at a height above the easel. You can move the enlarger head up or down the column, and position it at your preferred height in order to get the desired “enlargement” in your prints. Before you use an enlarger, check whether its column holds the head rock steady; otherwise you may end up producing out-of-focus prints.
Baseboard – The baseboard is basically the pedestal of an enlarger. It provides support for the entire enlarger and also holds the column steady. You need to check the baseboard for stability and make sure that it has a rigid, flat surface. One good idea is to position the enlarger head at maximum height, and check whether the baseboard still holds the column steady.
Lenses – An enlarger, like a camera, allows you to use different focal length lenses. Moreover, both enlarging lenses and camera lenses have aperture settings, which help control the amount of light passing through a lens. The similarity, however, ends there! In a camera, you use different lenses for different situations, while in an enlarger; you’ll usually need only one lens for one particular negative size. For instance, you’ll generally use a 50mm lens to print a 35mm negative, a 135mm lens for a large format negative, and so on. If you choose to use a larger lens, the projected image will become smaller, and you’ll need to position the enlarger head much higher to produce similar size prints. It is always a good idea to invest in quality enlarging lenses, because they play a major role in forming the final image. Low quality lenses may affect the sharpness and contrast of your final prints.
Focus Knob – The focus knob allows you to adjust the focus of the projected image by changing the distance between the lens and the negative. The focusing stage is covered by a bellows, which provides additional range of movement. Some manufacturers, such as, Leica provides photographic enlargers with an ‘autofocus’ feature, which keeps the image in focus automatically as the enlarger head moves up and down the column.
Elevation Knob – Most enlargers come with a gear system in its column to adjust the height of the enlarger head. The elevation knob helps control the gear system, and thus allows you to move the head upward or downward to finally position it at a desired height above the baseboard. You need to check whether the knob provides steadiness and smooth movement of the head.
Negative Carrier – As the name suggests, the negative carrier holds the negative in proper place, thus allowing the light to pass through the film as it should. The carrier is usually positioned below the enlarger head and above the bellows. It holds the negative between two pieces of metal clamshells, with the upper clamshell having a cutout window to expose the negative to light. You’ll find two types of negative carriers – with glasses and without glasses in the window. The glass provides additional support to hold the negative flat, but may cause scratches or fingerprints in the negative. If you are looking for a cost-effective alternative, you can opt for a glassless negative carrier, but it may not prevent sagging or hold the negative completely flat, especially when the negative is already a little curled. Also, be sure to check the largest negative that the carrier can hold, and consider whether that is the largest size you want to work with in future. In general, an enlarger that can print 35mm, medium format and large format (4×5) negatives would suffice.
{Darkroom by Terry}
It is also important to check whether the lens board, the easel, and the negative carrier are properly aligned, so that the light passes straight through the negative plane, then through the lens, and then straight down to the photographic paper.
Oh hey I know this person. thestarktorialist.tumblr.com
Hello :) I'm actually a really big fan of your convention videos, but I was too shy to say hi to you at animethon. Haha ^^ which conventions are you planning to attend next? Hopefully next time I see you, I'll be able to talk to you... And maybe ask to be part of one of your videos???
Hey, I really appreciate it. I don’t get many views compared to other CMV makers so for someone to go out of their way to tell me they like my stuff means a lot to me. I’ll be around for Anime Revolution in Vancouver this weekend and maybe Edmonton Expo, that one’s up in the air. For sure if you come say hi we can chat and shoot.
Outside Totem Pole Photo Gallery, Shinjuku
Leica MP with 50mm f1.4 Summilux lens and grip
Beautiful, Moody Portraits Melancholia is beautifully interpreted in these portraits from the community.
Awesome Albums: The City in Me (Berlin Edition) by reizueberflutung The city springs within the human body in this photographic series by reizueberflutung.
givemeacid
#Why you should photoshop your cosplay pictures (Part 1)
–**WJS Cosplay Photography Blog**–
Cosplay: Anarchy Cosplay, Photo: WJS Cosplay
“Photoshop” has a negative connotation among the mainstream audience and while I’m open to the idea of people not liking any post-processing manipulation, I would like for folks to know a little more behind it before they come to the conclusion that it shouldn’t be done.
*mid-write edit* So I thought I could address the controversy that arises when a person’s body is manipulated in post-production as an aside, but I realized I really needed an entire entry for that. And that really isn’t what this post is about. Body manipulation is an important topic that deserves it’s own post. This post is about showing how I edit photos and more importantly, why.
Cosplays: Anarchy Cosplay, Photo: WJS Cosplay
When I first started photography, like everyone else I had the notion that a photo captures a truth. Not some esoteric truth, I mean a truth as in physics forces it to capture a truth. Once I actually learned the mechanics behind photography, I realized that that couldn’t possibly be true and that for a lack of a better description, photography is just like drawing but really really fast and way easier (easier to produce an ‘accurate’ image, not easier as in the art as a whole).
A lot of people believe film captured things more honestly than digital. I dropped that notion when I learned about the chemistry behind how film works. The idea that film ever captured a truth can be dis-proven by just pointing out the fact that Fuji sells Fuji Provia (mid contrast, slight saturation, medium sharpness), 400H (low contrast, low saturation, pastel-tinged soft edges), Velvia (high contrast, hyper saturation [more than most digital cameras can do]), and countless other films. Film literally **can’t **capture what the human eye sees and so they ran with it and marketed different formulas for wedding shooters, landscape shooters, etc. Digital can’t capture an accurate image for similar reasons.
The point? The point is that once I understood that cameras not just don’t, but **can’t **capture the truth, I had less qualms with “photoshopping.” Then, once I learned lighting and photographic techniques, I had almost no qualms about photoshopping because of the magic you can already do on set. Take this photo of Niicakes:
That’s a gif animating through all five of the Canon 6D’s profile settings: Standard, Portrait, Landscape, Neutral, Faithful. It’s been a joke among Canon shooters that Neutral and Faithful were named that because they clearly aren’t, and the “Standard” profile that everyone leaves their camera on is the second most “punched up” setting after Landscape. The implications is this: the photos coming off the camera are already processed and none of them represent reality. It also has implications for the “NoFilter” hashtag.
That’s the .RAW image of Storm and Sam, straight off my Panasonic LX100 with no setting changes. I shot the two with the sun behind them because I wanted the soft quality of shade lighting. If I had assistants and a budget, I would’ve lit up their front with some strobes. I had neither. And so during .RAW conversion I bumped up the exposure to something more natural feeling and added a hint of contrast and saturation:
The result could’ve been done in camera, live. If it had been, would it have been any less “honest?”
Now, if I had the budget of a Hollywood film production, I would remove that lamp post, shoot my scene, and put it back. I don’t have that, so I rely on photoshop.
Cloning (what I just did to the lamp post) and warping (when you stretch/shrink people’s bodies) are the two biggest things the mainstream thinks of when they hear photoshop. In this case I doubt anyone is offended because it isn’t the person’s body being manipulated.
So I’ll start on that.
Harkening back to the lack of strobes issue, I wanted to brighten their skin, knowing that the human eye tends to fly towards the brightest part of an image and in this case, I wanted the audience’s attention on their pretty faces and awesome costumes.
The equivalent of this in real life is simply shining light on them. And once you realize that it’s light bouncing off the body and not the body actually changing, you might realize it’s not much different than walking under an archway and ‘turning dark’ under the shadow.
Now, I had my camera set to the lowest contrast. Why? Because of something the camera can’t do: see as well as we can. When I shot this, the image on my LCD screen was lower contrast than what I saw in real life. I did this because the camera cannot capture as much ‘dynamic range’ as the human eye + brain can. In this case, I believe our brains can handle 3-4 times what my Panasonic LX100 can. 3-4 times. And so I set the contrast low, knowing that in post I would increase it to something more natural-looking and still protect my extreme high tones and low tones. So I bumped up the contrast:
I also added a custom-drawn vignette because I didn’t like that edges of the frame were pure white, which compete for attention from the subjects. Some might say that’s manipulating an image in a way that wouldn’t ever happen in real life. That’s true. But in real life the edges of the frame would never be pure white, either. Because brain power.
After I added contrast, I felt like the costumes were now too dark compared to the bodies that were brightened up earlier. So I just extended that layer to the dresses:
Now here’s something the brain is amazing at that you never noticed: it color balances. What this means is that it actually corrects color for you. Complicated story simplified, in the shade, the blue spectrum dominates. During sunset, the orange-red spectrum dominates (hence those sunset colors). You can actually force this out by staring out the window in the late afternoon for a minute straight and then turning your eyes to a white wall indoors. If you pay close attention, you’ll notice everything is blue for a few seconds. The camera? It doesn’t color compensate nearly as well. Especially my camera which tends to naturally shoot heavily blue/green, even after I’ve nudged the settings.
And so in photoshop I pushed it back to red-yellow, because those were the colors I saw when I shot this at sunset. And then I pushed it even further, to even more red-yellow, because that’s how it felt to me when I shot this.
And so that’s what photoshop means 95% of the time. It’s correcting what the camera couldn’t do. Obviously you can go way further with it, at which point you’re focusing on “creating an image” (see my banner image) and not “recording a moment”. Which is fine, with caveats. For me, a camera is primarily an artistic tool and only secondarily a record keeping tool. I am a creative photographer, not a coverage photographer, which is its own skillset. And as such I rely on post-processing as another technique to create an image with the primary emphasis being how it feels.
I would go further but this is the second time I wrote this article because my browser crashed and it’s past mid-night and I’m very tired. I’ll have to make this another two-parter. In the mean time, let’s all enjoy Sam and Storm’s amazing rendition of Cardcaptor Sakura:
So I hope that helped explain just what “photoshopping” really means to me, why I don’t shy away from it, and why I think most people should edit their cosplay photos. Next up I’ll go deeper into the “creative” photoshop mindset, which is I’m sure what a lot of people find distinctive about my cosplay portfolio (ie the ones with the energy blasts and lightning bolts).
If you enjoyed this, please follow my facebook, follow this blog, and reblog this post. I’ll be updating consistently with more topics!
This a great post but I still have a bone to pick about usage of that verb, to “photoshop” My immediate reaction to the title of the post was still the connotation with body manipulation rather than the typical post-processing adjustments every RAW file needs to go through.
I have never encountered anyone who has referred to color correction, grading, or RAW processing as “photoshopping” Nor have I ever encountered anyone who has issues with adding vignettes or removing lamp posts and the like. Anyone who does have such issues would do well to read this post, and perhaps Google what a contact sheet was and how it was used in the film era to manipulate photos.
Point is, when it comes to photographic honesty or integrity I don’t think anyone really has anything against lighting/contrast adjustments, or filter/preset usage, save for photographers wanting to cut down turnaround time. I was also under the impression that the #nofilter hashtag was all about how annoying and terrible the Instagram filters are (they really are very shitty especially compared to VSCO presets...) rather than an attempt to present an “honest” and “unmodified” photo.
In my experience, the word "photoshopped” universally refers to intentionally misleading or harmful manipulations of the subject of a photo, which body manipulation or manipulation of photos for political/social gain certainly are, but what this post presents certainly isn’t.
Still an interesting look at how people perceive post-processing though...