Postcards from Afar

Journeys Around the World with Kelly and Dan Jacobs

[postcards-fromafar]

Stockholm

Better late than never! It’s been a solid year since we last posted about this trip, but we’re finally getting around to adding pictures and putting posts up thanks to COVID. The second city we went to on our 2019 Nordics trip was Stockholm, Sweden.

Highlights

-Palace tour- We had a brief guided tour of the palace and then did some exploration on our own of the other parts, including seeing the crown jewels. When we left, we got to see a more condensed version of the changing of the guard.

-Vasa museum- This museum was super cool! In a weird way, it’s a monument to one of Sweden’s biggest failures- a beautiful, stunning ship that was poorly built and sank within about twenty minutes. It’s incredible how well preserved it was when they found it, and it was very cool to learn about its history and see all the intricate designs up close.

-Biking around one of the islands- We rented bikes for an hour one day and had a lovely time biking on the paths around the island by the water.

-Boat tour- We did a two hour canal cruise which gave us some interesting historical background as well as current information about Stockholm.

-Riding on scooters- I took advantage of the scooter share program available in the city a couple times when I got tired from all the walking. It was delightful! (Side note- this is before it was a thing in Chicago.)

-Wandering through the Sodermalm neighborhood- We were staying in the area so spent some time walking down the streets and stopping in small shops and cafes.

Bummers

-Strict closing times- We tried going to a place called Meatballs for the People and showed up 15 minutes before closing- they refused to seat us that late.  

-Having to travel plan one one of our nights in Stockholm due to the Scandinavian Airlines pilot strike- We realized the morning of our flights to Helsinki that there was a strike happening that would possibly impact our travel plans from Stockholm to Bergen. We were really looking forward to hiking, taking a road trip to see the fjords, and taking a ferry and train through the gorgeous wilderness from Bergen to Oslo. We looked into all possible options for still making it to Bergen, but flights had gone from ~$100 to ~$700+, driving would take 14 hours and involve crossing country lines in a rental car, and the train would also take forever and cost a lot. Ultimately, we decided to call an audible and go to Copenhagen for a couple of days instead. It all worked out, but it meant we lost a couple hours on our last night in Stockholm to intense travel planning and revision.

Eats

-Wood fired pizza at Omnipoulos- The pizza was delicious, and on top of that, they had great beer!

-Kanelbullar- Swedish cinnamon buns. Yum!

-Greek food- After we couldn’t get meatballs due to the late hour, we ended up at a Greek restaurant, where we at our fill of moussaka and Greek salad. I haven’t had Greek food in forever, so it hit the spot!

-Oaxen Slip- We had small plates of fancy food here, including pickled herring and oysters.

-Kvarnen- For our final meal in Stockholm, we dined on more traditional Swedish food: meatballs, mashed potatoes, lingonberries, fried herring, and more.

Drinks

-Omnipollos beer- On the whole, my travel companions were not very impressed by the beer in Sweden, but the beer at Omnipollos was definitely an exception! One stand out was a lemon curd sour with frozen meringue on top. Ironically, on the last day, we learned that a beer bar in Chicago is going to have one of their beers on tap soon.

-Non-alcoholic wine- I tried an alcohol free red wine thinking that it might do the trick and it definitely did not. Unfortunately there’s just no making wine sans alcohol taste like wine.

People

-Pat and Elizabeth- No new friends made on this Swedish leg of our trip but plenty of good times had with our travel companions!

Observations and Insights

-Waiters at the Stockholm restaurants were very polite and concerned with our happiness, asking if we were enjoying the city.

Tips

-If you see a random swing, jump on it!

[postcards-fromafar]

Helsinki

Dan and I were very excited to be back in Europe again for this trip, exploring new territory (the Nordic countries) with friends we haven’t traveled with before! Dan had stumbled upon some super cheap flights for less than $400 a while back, so he and I jumped on them. Our long-time friends, Pat and Elizabeth were also on board, so the trip planning commenced!

We flew to and from Europe via Helsinki on this trip, and we had a 23 hour  layover (on purpose) on the way to Stockholm. We used this one, very jet lagged day to explore the city, meet up with Pat’s Finnish cousin, and indulge in an excellent meal.

Highlights

-Wandering around- We walked from our Airbnb down to the water and then wound our way back up through the downtown area. We saw churches, parks, and plenty of people hanging outside. It was a sunny, pleasant day, and I think the fresh air helped us stay awake! Pat’s cousin met up with us early in the day and was really helpful in showing us around and sharing some interesting tidbits about Finnish culture.

-Oodi- This is a new library in Helsinki that we spent some time checking out. It was super cool! They had lots of neat spaces to work, 3D printers, a video gaming room, and some lovely rocking chairs.  They also had a homemade device labeled “balloon catcher” that an employee was using (to little avail) to try to capture some stray balloons from the ceiling. Eventually her colleague took pity on her and used the pointy end to pop the balloon.

Eats

-Falafel and fries- Our first meal in Helsinki- very authentic! But in all honesty, this hit the spot after a long flight and not that much sleep.

-Affogato- Coffee is a must on the first day of international travel, and what better way to do it then to pour it over gelato? We stopped at a cute place by the water where “happiness” was a free add on to your dish.

-5 course meal at Demo- A Michelin star modern take on traditional Scandinavian food. Most memorable courses were the Anjou pigeon (with red chicory and eggplant risotto) and the dessert (cloudberry, white chocolate, rum marinated brioche). As a bonus, they provided us with two rounds of delicious bread and honey butter! They were also super accommodating for my dietary (pregnancy) needs and would cook things differently or provide alternate dishes as needed.

Drinks

-The bartender at Demo whipped me up a yummy mocktail with ginger so that I could feel like I was joining in on the drinking with dinner.

-Bryggeri Helsinki- We grabbed some craft brews at a local spot that had been recommended by a travel blog.

People

-Pat and Elizabeth- Dan went to high school with Pat, so their friendship goes way back. The only time we have traveled with them before was for a long weekend in Denver last fall for another friend’s wedding. It’s always a bit of question mark traveling with a friend or couple for the first time, but Pat and Elizabeth were excellent travel companions! We got along really well, have similar travel styles, and enjoyed each other’s company throughout. Hopefully we will have another trip together in the future!

-Pat’s cousin, Atte- One of Pat’s family members got into genealogy research and then went to visit in Finland, so they connected us to Atte’s parents. His parents live further outside Helsinki but Atte kindly offered to meet up with us since he lives just outside the city. He met up with us for the day, showed us around, and shared with us about his life and Finnish culture. It was lovely to meet a local on our first day (a family member at that!) and spend some time with him.

Observations and Insights

– Thanks to Atte, we learned some fun facts about Finnish culture:

– All the men have to serve a year of mandatory military service, which is unpaid (they get room and board). This is now more controversial and may change.

– A lot of people in Finland have a lake house/cabin and spend much of their summertime there.

– The Nordic version of Starbucks is called EspressoHouse, and it’s everywhere!

– There were a lot of college age students dressed in baggy jumpsuits covered in sponsorship patches. To our understanding, it’s some sort of graduation thing. We also saw a bunch of young teenage girls dressed in bizarre costumes running up and down the stairs while we were sightseeing. 

Bummers

-Lack of sleep- Classic first day of a trip problem. We were able to catch 3-4 hours of sleep on the plane and then powered through the rest of the day. We ended up out late so didn’t get to bed until around midnight, then had to wake up just after 5am for our connecting flight to Stockholm the next morning.

Tips

-You can buy a SIM card (Saunalahti 4G monthly card) at the airport at the Kioski shop in the arrivals hall. that will work in all of the Nordic countries for about $30.

-24 hours is a good amount of time to spend in Helsinki to get a good taste.

[postcards-fromafar]

New York

Although Dan has been to New York several times, I had only spent one weekend here back in 2013, when we had come to visit our friends Dave and Meghan. I was pumped to come back again and explore the city, especially since Dan’s family will be moving here this summer! 

We had designed this trip around a very special occasion- Dan managed to score Harry Potter and the Cursed Child tickets last spring, so we (along with my parents) surprised my fifteen-year old sister, Molly, with the trip to New York to see the show for her birthday and Christmas presents. We were joined by our friend Becky.

Bonus for this trip- it was Molly’s first flight ever!

Highlights

-9/11 Memorial and Museum- We went here on our first day in New York. It was incredibly moving and powerful, and it brought back so many of the feelings from sitting in 7th grade and witnessing this tragedy. It was before Molly’s time (she wasn’t born until 2003), but she also found it to be really compelling and emotional. I would definitely recommend going to the museum for anyone visiting New York. 

-Wandering around and shopping with Natalie- We had a great time having brunch, roaming around, and shopping at places (like the MOMA gift shop- the best!) with Natalie. 

-Chelsea Market- We went late at night so most of the shops and restaurants were closed, but it was nice to wander through while it was fairly empty. It’s a really aesthetically neat place, and I want to come back sometime for a meal (or shopping!). 

-Sunday morning exploration with Molly- Dan and Becky were out until 3am on Saturday night with Natalie, but Molly and I were back at the hotel around 11pm since she couldn’t go to the bars (for obvious reasons). We woke up earlier so went on a walk for a couple hours before reconvening with Dan and Becky before the show. We checked out the exterior of the apartment building from the show Friends, got bubble tea and smoothies, and walked about half of the High Line. It was some really lovely sister bonding time!

-Harry Potter and the Cursed Child- The main event- and oh man, it did not disappoint! The show was over 5 hours in length (split into two parts, one at 2pm, the second at 7:30pm), and I could have easily watched for many more hours. The original cast from London were fantastic, the set was incredible, and the special effects were truly magical. We were all implored to “keep the secret” so I won’t give away any plot points but if you get the chance to see it, don’t hesitate! 

Below- us with our house flags. Becky and Molly are Ravenclaw, I’m Hufflepuff, and Dan is Slytherin. 

Afterwards, Molly begged us to wait outside to see which actors might come out to say hi or sign autographs. She and Becky got several autographs and a picture with the actor who played Ron!

Molly was being a huge fangirl and was very nervous/excited about the possibility of the actor who played Scorpius (Draco’s son, one of the main roles) coming out. She was really afraid that I was going to say or do something to embarrass her. Not sure where she would have gotten that idea? 

-Free walking tour- Sandemann’s New Europe (our favorite tour company) has a free walking tour in New York, so of course, we had to do it. We saw the bull outside the Stock Exchange, learned about the history of immigration and how New York changed over time, and saw Alexander Hamilton’s grave. Molly and I had to split off for a while because it was super cold, but we enjoyed the parts we were present for. 

Bummers

-Becky’s long delays on Saturday- Poor Becky was over 12 hours delayed due to “weather” in Dallas. She left Houston at 5am and she didn’t end up getting in to New York until around 7pm.

-Molly not getting to meet Scorpius- The actor never ended up coming out after the show. Look at that sad face!

-The wind!!- It was crazy windy (50mph+) on Monday (in Chicago the previous day as well) which made the walking tour unbearably cold. Not helping matters, the teenager in our group decided she did not need to wear a jacket and would be fine in her sweatshirt. She ended up with the shakes, and she and I had to depart the tour for an hour so that she could warm up. Our flights out ended up significantly delayed too due to the wind. 

Eats

-Italian food for dinner at al Vicoletto

-Pizza from Joe’s Pizza- Classic New York style pizza at a spot often frequented by celebrities. We went early so didn’t have to wait long. 

-Thai food at Obao in between acts of Harry Potter- I was very excited that they had khao soi here- a super yummy Northern Thai noodle dish that is very hard to find! They also had tasty cocktails as happy hour specials. 

Drinks

-Dan and Becky went out drinking with Natalie on Saturday night to a couple of cocktail bars (Bathtub Gin and the 18th Room) and then to Brooklyn to meet up with a buddy of Dan’s on Sunday night. 

People

-Molly- I had so much fun traveling with my baby sister! We had lots of good conversation, and it was so much fun to take her on her first flight and visit a new city with her. 

-Natalie- Dan used to work with Natalie in Chicago, and then she moved to New York two years ago. Natalie is such a fun, cheerful person and we’ve really missed hanging out with her in Chicago. We’re glad we finally made it to New York and were able to spend some time brunching, shopping, and (at least for Dan and Becky) partying with her!

-Becky- Becky had already proved herself to be an amazing travel companion in our journey to Oman and Dubai a couple years ago. We loved traveling with her again, especially for something Harry Potter related that we could nerd out about together!

Observations and Insights

-There is so much more to explore! Although Dan has been to New York on multiple occasions before, this was only my second expedition. I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface! New York has so many amazing neighborhoods to explore, awesome nightlife, and delicious food. I also want to do some of the more standard touristy things (Central Park, Ellis Island) during a time when it’s warm enough to properly enjoy them. Fortunately for us, Dan’s parents and sister are moving to New York this summer! I’m confident there will be many more New York trips coming up in our future...

[postcards-fromafar]

Sevilla & Málaga

Dan and I had been to Sevilla once before, back in April 2016 and had a great visit, so we were excited to make a return to show the family around and see some new sights. 

Highlights

-Our Airbnb on this leg of the journey was fantastic! Great location, lots of space to hang out, comfy bedrooms, and great, hospitable hosts. 

-Free walking tour- As soon as we dropped our stuff at our Airbnb, we sprinted/power walked over to the start of the free walking tour. We missed the very beginning but managed to find the group anyway. It’s always nice to do these early on in the trip so you get an idea of what’s around to see and what you might want to explore further during your time in a city. 

-Plaza de Espana- We wandered around this massive plaza which was built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 (featured in a few movies, including Star Wars), people watched, and took some fun photos. 

-Sevilla Cathedral- Not only is the architecture stunning, but the Sevilla Cathedral contains the tomb of Christopher Columbus (or is at least one of his final resting places- other places also claim they have pieces of him). 

-Church of El Salvador- The second largest church in Sevilla (after the Cathedral). 

-Las Setas- A giant wooden structure made up of six large, mushroom-shaped parasols. There’s a viewing platform you can walk along up top that offers nice views of the city. 

-Alcazar- This was not quite as impressive as it might have been otherwise, coming closely on the heels of the magnificent Alhambra in Granada. However, it was still quite beautiful (though very crowded) and we enjoyed our tour. 

-Drinks with Gabe- Dan, Gabe, and I went out for drinks at a bar on one of the squares and then at a small beer bar (Bierkraft) one of the nights. We had a great time drinking cheap wine and cerveza and chatting away while people-watching and hanging with the locals.

-Going on a night walk with Gabe and Trina- After dinner one night, we abandoned Dan’s parents to pack and took a lovely night stroll around Sevilla. We wandered by the place where Dan and I stayed last time we were in Sevilla, and we also posed for some pictures with the crowns of the Three Kings. 

Our flight back to the states was originating from the largest city in the region, Malaga, so we took the train there the next morning and had a full day to explore on New Years Eve.

-Picasso Museum- We hit the Picasso Museum during our one day in Málaga. It was quite an extensive collection, and we found it to be an interesting glimpse into the life and progression of his work over time. 

-Walking along the beach in Málaga- A more low key activity, and nice to see the ocean!

-Video chatting with family while at the airport on the way home- We traveled home early on New Year’s Day morning, which was actually still later evening on New Year’s Eve back home. We video chatted with my parents and some other relatives while they were up partying in Northern Wisconsin, and then we chatted with my sister Kerri and brother-in-law Warren in Minnesota. We missed out on the classic NYE experience and didn’t go out at all since our flight left so early, so it was fun to chat with all them while they were happily partying away. 

Bummers

-Not being able to go out for New Years- It would have been fun to go check out the local festivities, but I’m too old to party and then only get a coupe hours sleep before boarding an international flight. 

Eats

-Tapas at Casa Ricardo- Recommended to us by our Airbnb host, this place was an authentic, local spot. We arrived at 8:30pm, right when they were opening, to find a crowd of Spaniards waiting to get in. As soon as they opened the doors, people rushed in and snagged all the tables up front. There were a few tables still open in the back, which I asked about. They told us that as long as we were out by 10pm, we were welcome to sit there. Our waiter, Jesús, came over, quickly realized I was the only one who spoke a good amount of Spanish, and introduced himself to me. He explained that there was not a menu, that “I am the menu,” and then proceeded to bring out many rounds of delicious tapas. It ended up being an affordable and really delicious meal, made all the more gratifying because we wouldn’t have been able to eat here (with ease) if I hadn’t spoken Spanish. 

-Lonja del Barranco Market- We revisited the market Dan and I had been to a few years ago for lunch one day. It was nice because they had many different options for places to eat- each person in your group can grab whatever they like and then we just convened outside to eat together. 

-Italian food at Da Pino- We indulged in pizza one night when we needed a break from tapas. 

-Chocolate and churros (x2)- Ironically, this ended up being our last meal in Spain. 

-Paella- Definitely not my thing (especially since I’m not big on shellfish), but a must eat item while in Spain. 

Drinks

-Wine, wine, wine- Between the group of us, we took down at least a couple bottles a day. 

-Beer at Bierkraft- Dan and Gabe were excited to get flights of craft beer here. 

People

-Mom, Dad, Gabe, Trina- We had such a wonderful time on this trip with the family. Looking forward to wherever our next trip together takes us!

Observations and Insights

-Sevilla was much more crowded this time around than when we had been here in April a few years prior. Not sure if it was just because of the holiday season or what. 

-The Spanish love the Three Kings, and Three Kings Day appears to be more of a hoopla than even Christmas. We missed it by a week, but the Sunday before we left, we stumbled upon a Three Kings Day Parade right outside of our apartment. It was very culturally interesting but also very strange, as some of the people in the parade and many of the spectators were wearing black face. It sounds like this is starting to become less condoned, but is still very present in many Spanish celebrations. 

-If you don’t pronounce “Daniel” the Spanish way, you end up with something like what Dan has on his cup here (for the record, I ordered his coffee this time so it was my bad). Hi Temu!

[postcards-fromafar]

Granada

We left Barcelona on Christmas morning and flew to Granada, which is in Andalusia. Initially drawn there by the allure of the Alhambra, we were delighted to find winding, twisting, streets in the Albaícin neighborhood to explore, Moorish architecture reminiscent of our time in Morocco, and glasses of wine for 2 euros with accompanying free tapas. 

Highlights

-Fantastic views from our Airbnb in the Albaícin neighborhood- The views made up for the strenuous hike to get there!

-Flamenco show- We went to Restaurant Jardines de Zoraya Tablao on Christmas night to enjoy a traditional flamenco show. Those dancers get quite a workout with all the intense feet tapping they do!

-Mirador de San Nicolás- On our list to do, but we ended up stumbling by it on accident on our way to dinner the first night. Great views of the Alhambra. 

-Royal Chapel and Cathedral de Granada- We did an audio guided tour through here. One of the most interesting parts (for me at least) was to see the places where some of the royals are entombed. 

-Private tour at the Alhambra- We were a little late to the game on booking tickets for the Alhambra so ended up needing to book a private tour in order to visit- in this case, our procrastination paid off! I’m someone who has a hard time staying focused and engaged when viewing sites like this on my own or with an audio guide. Fortunately our guide was fantastic; having Jorge point things out and explain historical and architectural details was hugely helpful and kept me interested. He was also very engaging and smart (the man speaks six languages!). 

The Alhambra itself was stunning. Originally designed for the military, the Alhambra has served as a fortress, palace, and small medina. It was the last remaining Moorish stronghold, then when the Catholic monarchs arrived and took over in 1492, it became a Christian court. 

-Strolling around Granada, both on our own and with the free walking tour - You never knew what you would find around the next corner! 

-Being weird with family- see below. 

Bummers

-Granada was COLD in the mornings! It got to the 50s midday and was pleasant in the sun, but it was difficult to leave the Airbnb in the morning when it was so dark and chilly. Our Airbnb also didn’t have central heat, so while the bedrooms would get warm with the heaters, walking to the bathroom was a frigid expedition. 

-We stayed up in the Albaícin neighborhood, which happens to be up a steep hillside. We did not look into altitude changes prior to booking so were caught unprepared. While Dan, Gabe, and I were fine with our backpacks and were able to make the (albeit challenging) uphill hike, it was not happening for the rest of our crew. Dan’s parents and Katrina had big rolling suitcases, and there was just no way those were going to make it uphill over the cobblestones. We ended up hailing a taxi for them, much to the amusement of the taxi driver.

Eats

-Churros and chocolate at Churreria Alhambra- We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to have more churros and chocolate, and this was the first time Dan’s parents and siblings had it for the trip. We had a heaping platter brought out and then each got our own mug of steaming chocolate. 

-Tapas + drinks for cheap at La Sitarilla- This place was recommended by our friend Caitlin and didn’t open until 8:30pm. When we initially arrived (right at 8:30- such Americans), we didn’t even think it was open. We ended up being one of the first groups in and camped out in a corner. A short while later, the place was PACKED with locals- it’s a good thing we came when we did! The drinks were fabulously cheap (2 euros each for beer, wine) and with each drink, you got a very generous tapa (usually some sort of rich, meaty dish designed to absorb the booze). We happily ate and drank our way to what we considered a dinner. When we left, the bill was only about 42 euros for all 6 of us. 

-Really tasty meal Restaurante El Trillo- Recommended by Jorge, every person in our group had an absolutely fabulous meal at this restaurant.  

Drinks

-Wine, wine, wine- Definitely drank more wine than water on this trip, as you don’t get free water with your meals then way you do back in the US. 

-Dan found it refreshing to be back in a country where you can just ask for “cerveza” and they hand you whichever local beer they have. 

People

-The Jacobs Crew- We didn’t meet any new people while in Granada but got lots of good quality family time. Our favorite group activities in Granada were the Alhambra guided tour and our wine and tapas experiences together!

-Jorge- Our aforementioned Alhambra tour guide. He was great!

Observations and Insights

-Finding lunch on Christmas day was difficult, as most places were closed. We ended up with reheated frozen pizza and a giant plate of fried calamari at a small restaurant/bar.

Tips

-If you’re on a budget, just find the right place and get a couple drinks! They will bring delicious tapas with each drink.

[postcards-fromafar]

Barcelona

For Christmas this year, Dan and I headed to Spain with his family. This was our first international trip with the Jacobs crew, and it did not disappoint! Spain is very much a lifestyle country, so while there were certain “must see” spots, most of our days were actually spent exploring on foot, enjoying churros and chocolate, and having a tapa with a drink at the bar.

Highlights

-Wandering through the Gothic Quarter- Dan, Gabe, and I arrived a day before the rest of the crew. After dropping out stuff at the Airbnb, we meandered through the Gothic Quarter and stuck our head into the Barcelona Cathedral. There was a shrine to Santa Rita inside, my Confirmation saint, so I lit a candle to her and said a prayer for my Grandma. It was lovely. 

-Tour of Casa Batlló- One of Gaudí’s magnificent masterpieces. Dan and I did not go to Sagrada Familia this time since we were there last year, but we had never done the tour inside the house Gaudi designed. Casa Batlló was stunning- with an aquatic theme throughout. Designed for the wealthy Batlló family, every detail and experience was thoroughly considered and customized for their tastes, with fantastical twists that can only come from the mind of Gaudi. Tip: We booked our self guided audio tour for first thing in the morning, before the crowds and tour groups arrived. This was a much more enjoyable experience as we could take our time wandering through and taking pictures at our own pace.

-Parque Güell- More Gaudí! We didn’t pay to go inside, as it was under renovation, instead just taking our time roaming around the free part of the park. 

-Checking out the views from the Art museum- For old time’s sake, Dan and I headed up the hill to the art museum to check out the city from on high. This was very sentimental for us, as we had gone here in our first trip to Barcelona with our friends, David and Sandra. We spent some time recreating photos from 2010 and putting them side by side. We were such babies then!

-Christmas Eve mass at Basilica Santa Maria del Mar- To start, it was very challenging to find a Christmas mass that would work for us since we were traveling on Christmas day. It seems that the Christmas Eve mass of choice for the Spaniards is a midnight mass, which was definitely not going to happen given the collective jetlag. We eventually ended up at Basilica Santa Maria del Mar. There were at least six celebrants and probably max 40 people at the mass- no joke. What I found most interesting was that the readings, homily, and prayers of the faithful were a hodgepodge of both Spanish and Catalan. 

-Free walking tour with SANDEMANs NEW Europe- We’ve talked about these tours before- they’re the best, and we’ve done them in lots of cities. I stand by the statement that a free walking tour is one of the best ways to kick off your exploration of a new city. We learned a lot about Spanish history as well as the current political climate in Catalonia. 

-Nice weather!- It was in the 50′s and 60′s here, which was a great improvement from the chilly weather back home.

Bummers

- No bummers to note- Barcelona was great!

Eats

-Blavis- This place was a total hole in the wall, and we were super pumped to check it out. We originally heard about Blavis on our favorite travel podcast, Extra Pack of Peanuts. Turns out, we aren’t the only ones! Apparently since that podcast episode came out, they have had tons of people come through who have listened to it. We had made the reservation for Blavis months in advance, and we arrived to find a tiny place with about four total tables. We asked the waiter for his recommendations and went wild with tapas. They were all exquisite. 

-Tapas at Guru- Our Christmas Eve dinner featured interesting takes on Spanish classics like jamón iberico, tasty cocktails and sangria, and a warm cozy environment. Just what we needed.

-Churros and chocolate at Xurrería Manuel San Román- You can’t go to Spain without getting churros and chocolate!

Drinks

-Craft beer at Biercab- This was our second visit here- this place had all sorts of delicious craft beers, including quite a few from the US. I had a peach sour from Cascade in Portland (a place Dan and I had gone this summer- such amazing sours!).

-Wine at Lo Pinyol- Dan and I went to Lo Pinyol the last time we were in Barcelona and got a couple liters of wine for dirt cheap (only a couple euros a piece!). The house wine this time was too young to be palatable but we split a different bottle with Gabe and it was quite tasty!

-Black Lab Brewhouse- An interesting brewery by the water- OK beer, though a cool spot and the raspberry sour was decent.

-Lots of espressos and cortados, including at Satan’s(!!!) coffee

People

-This trip started out as a potential family vacation with the Jacobs crew to Hawaii. Instead, (since Southwest hadn’t started the route yet) we went the other way to Europe! This was our first big international trip as a group with Dan’s parents and brother and sister, Gabe, and Katrina. We had a lot of fun exploring together and enjoyed plenty of juicy dinner conversations. 

Observations and Insights

Dan and Gabe might be the same person. They both waltzed into O’Hare at the start of our trip with the exact same pair of brand new headphones, both perfectly delighted with themselves at their brilliant taste. Dan was perplexed when he saw Gabe had the same pair. They also tend to dress alike and wear very similar backpacks...

-There were Catalan flags hanging everywhere. There is an active movement in Catalonia to become independent from the rest of Spain. They briefly declared independence on October 27, 2017, and many politicians were promptly arrested (since that’s considered illegal) and are still imprisoned. In addition to the flags, we saw a lot of signs urging the freedom of political prisoners. 

-Random fun fact: On our first day in Barcelona in 2010, we were so excited to be on our first weekend excursion that we snapped several random pictures with no apparent scenery in the vicinity. When looking back at old photos, we realized that one of our first photos was actually in front of the same building that our Airbnb was located in this time!

Tips

-If you’re flying through Barcelona and have access, check out the airport lounge- it’s great!

[postcards-fromafar]

Oktoberfest in photos

Because a picture’s worth a thousand words. 

[postcards-fromafar]

Munich

Ah, Munich. This has been on my bucket list for quite a while, and Dan got the opportunity to go for a weekend last year before his work trip to Berlin (without me). He was there the weekend before Oktoberfest started so very much wanted to return to experience the actual thing. Once my parents were on board, we were full steam ahead! 

In addition to Oktoberfest, we were also looking forward to checking out Neuschwanstein Castle outside of Munich, wandering around the city, and eating plenty more hearty meals.

Highlights

-Day trip to Neuschwanstein Castle- We used our favorite tour company, Sandeman’s New Europe Tours, to give us the backstory on ‘Mad King’ Ludwig, escort us to and from the castle, and handle the intricacies of getting the tickets and scheduling an entry time. Built in the 19th century, Neuschwanstein was designed to look medieval while still having nice modern touches like flushable toilets. King Ludwig was obsessed with the works of composer Richard Wagner and designed the rooms to incorporate his stories. The castle is rumored to have served as inspiration for Walt Disney.

-Oktoberfest (Weisn)- Well, Oktoberfest was everything we dreamed it would be and so, so much more. Dan, my parents, and I all wore traditional clothing (dirndls and lederhosen), and Warren wore a fun hat. We started the day by going to Shützen Festzelt tent, where the girls got half liters of wine and the boys got liters of beer. (Fun fact: it’s not called a stein of beer, it’s a “mas.”) 

The second tent we went to was Hacker-Festzelt. This is one of the prettiest tents, with a ceiling made to look like a beautiful summer day complete with plenty of clouds. We were able to pounce on a table when its former occupants drunkenly stumbled out and we held it down until security forced everyone to leave around 5pm in order to turn the tables for the evening. 

We decided to head to Lowenbrau for our final tent of the day. At this point in the evening, things had gotten significantly rowdier. We passed many hours standing on the benches, making friends, and singing. 

Check out the next blog post for plenty more Oktoberfest pictures.  

-Wandering through the parks & seeing the surfers at Eisbachwelle- It’s pretty surreal to see people surfing on a river in the middle of the city, but with the perpetual wave at Eisbachwelle, it’s totally possible!

-Oktoberfest Round 2- Dan and I went back to Oktoberfest on our final Saturday in Munich for a couple of hours to hang out with his cousin Victor, who is stationed about an hour and a half away. We spent the late morning in the legendary Hofbrauhaus tent, which was full of rowdy Americans. People were getting LIT at 11am that day. The band played “Ein Prosit” too many times to count, and I enjoyed a Radler (beer + lemonade) while Dan took down another mas of beer. It was a lot of fun to catch up with Victor, and it was definitely a very different feel to take in the whole experience sober!

-Third Reich tour- Dan, my parents, and I did a Third Reich walking tour around the city and learned about Hitler’s rise to power in the context of Munich. It was bleak but fascinating. 

Bummers

-Getting lost at Oktoberfest- Not altogether surprising, since I don’t have a great sense of direction when sober. I disappeared for a while, and it was not easy to find the crew again.

-Post-vacation travel blues- This is something that happens to me all the time after fun trips- whether it’s a weekend in Wisconsin or a week abroad. I have such a good time that I feel super bummed for a couple days once we get home. Certainly won’t stop me from traveling though!

Eats

-Schneider Bräuhaus- We ended up here twice because it was so tasty! The cordon blue in particular was super yummy.

-Curry sausage- So simple yet so tasty. Warren was on a curry sausage kick when we were at Oktoberfest.

-Schnitzel- Saying of the trip, as declared by my father, “WE NEED SCHNITZEL!”

-Spaetzle- Kinda like a fancy cross between gnocci and mac ‘n cheese. 

Drinks

-Bier!! Each brewery makes their own version of Oktoberfest beer (though using the same basic recipe). Prost!

-Wine- I had a glass of wine most nights with dinner, and it was cheap (<5euros) and always a generous pour. Gruner seems to be a popular white wine in Munich.

People

-Mom, Dad, Kerri, and Warren- The best travel companions we could ask for! I am so glad that we were fortunate enough to share this once in a lifetime experience with them. 

-Mel and Ben- We met Mel and Ben at the second tent at Oktoberfest when we all landed at the same table for a couple hours. They were visiting Munich from the UK for a birthday celebration, and we had a lovely time getting to know them over beers!

-Friends from Oktoberfest. Some of whose names we remember, some of whose names we do not. 

My sister, Christoph, and I chatted quite a bit given that he does not speak any English. I was using Google Translate to assist in communicating.

-Jake- Dan’s buddy hooked us up with Jake, a travel guide working out of Munich who we met up and grabbed drinks with. Prior to the trip even starting, he provided us with tons of great suggestions for things to do.

-Victor- Dan’s cousin is in the Army and is stationed in Germany for the next three years. We met him at Oktoberfest on Saturday morning. It was so much fun being able to meet up with family abroad and catch up!

Observations & Insights

-Everyone is your friend after a couple of beers at the fest.

-The Germans call it “Weisn” instead of Oktoberfest.

-Oktoberfest started as a festival to celebrate the king’s wedding.

-A stein of beer (one liter) is called a mas.

-Germans LOVE to drunkenly sing American songs together- for example- “Take me Home, Country Roads”, “Mamma Mia”, “Hey Jude”, “Hey Baby”.

Tips

-Hotels are expensive during Oktoberfest but you can find a reasonable Airbnb if you look further into the suburbs. Just make sure you are staying off a train line.

-Bring plenty of cash to Oktoberfest- one mas is about 12 euros.

-Have a meeting place in case you get lost.

-If you have the chance to visit Oktoberfest, you should totally do it! It completely surpassed all of our expectations and will live on as one of our all time favorite travel experiences. 

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Vienna & Salzburg

Our fall trip to Vienna, Salzburg, and Munich with my parents, sister, and brother-in-law had been in the works for quite some time. Other than their honeymoon to the Bahamas 30+ years ago, my parents had never left the country. My dad had also never had much desire to do so. That all changed after my parents and their friends went on an excursion to our hometown’s local Oktoberfest. Rumor has it that after a couple of steins, my father exuberantly declared that they should all go to Germany! 

My sister and I decided to capitalize on this desire and twisted his arm until he agreed to an eight day trip abroad to visit Austria and Germany and (of course) go to the real Oktoberfest (or Wiesn, as the Germans call it) in Munich. My mom required very little arm twisting and was only too happy to agree to the trip. We solidified the decision to go on the trip one year ago over a German meal at Edelweiss in Chicago.

Our journey started in Austria with a few days in Vienna and a quick one day stop in Salzburg. Check out the next post for details on our time in Munich. 

Highlights

-Schloss Shoenbrunn- We spent a good part of one of our days in Vienna at this former imperial summer residence of the Habsburgs. We went on a tour inside and also spent part of the day wandering around the grounds. We also went up the large hill and checked out the view from on top of the Gloriette. 

There were lots of interesting statues...including this one. What on earth is the third person doing under there??

While at Schloss Schoenbrunn, we went and explored the maze on the grounds and there was this little area where you walk on the blocks to get across the water. Under the yellow sign was a fountain that would spray you when you walked across. Except... it only sprayed my dad. Every time. Our whole family tried it and some other random tourists did as well but consistently he was the only one it would spray. Look closely and you can see the action shot here. It was absolutely hysterical. 

-Wiener Weinwandertag aka “Vienna Wine Hiking Day”- Although not originally on our radar, we learned about this annual event from an American expat at a bar our first night in Vienna and just couldn’t say no. There were three routes through the vineyards that collectively covered 15+ miles. We did part of one of the routes and stopped at about a half dozen wineries. 

We drank plenty of wine (and sturm!) on our wine hike, including a type unique to Austria. More on the sturm later. 

-Wandering around Vienna- My parents went to evening mass at St. Stephen’s and we also spent a decent amount of time wandering around various parts of the city. Dan, Warren, and I went and checked out a local market.

-Checking out the Hohensalzburg Fortress in Salzburg- We took the funicular up as this would have been quite the strenuous hike, took a brief tour, and spent some time soaking in the gorgeous views from up there. 

The views were stunning from on top. 

-Walking around Salzburg- We basically got a bonus day in Salzburg that we weren’t expecting to have when our Eagle’s Nest tour was canceled. The four of us (me, Dan, Dad, and Warren) made the most of it by spending hours walking around the city.

-Sound of Music tour for Kerri and Mom- Both of them watched the movie again on the plane ride over so were pumped up about the tour. They got to see many of the locations from the movie while also learning fun facts about the filming. 

Bummers

-We had meant to visit Eagle’s Nest in Berchesgaden but got an email that morning that it was closed due to snow. Eagle’s Nest would have been really interesting to see; the mountaintop chalet was a 50th birthday present to Hitler, the fireplace was from Mussolini, and the place was basically a Nazi retreat. On the plus side, we got to wander around Salzburg for the day (and we wouldn’t have had much time otherwise).

Eats

-Goulash- Beef in gravy. A hearty first meal to kick off our trip. 

-Schnitzel at Figlmueller- Legit bigger than our plates. This place was recommended by Warren’s coworker and did not let us down. The schnitzel was delicious and the “salad” (lots of potatoes!) was a nice accompaniment. 

-Apfelstrudel- A traditional pastry in Austria- we had this many times over the course of the trip. Yum!

-Sacher torte- A famous Viennese dessert invented for the prince in 1832. It’s a dense chocolate cake with a layer of apricot jam in between the cake and frosting. Fun Fact I learned while writing this blog post: December 5th is National Sacher Torte day in the US (because apparently we needed a holiday for that??)

-Giant sausages from a würstelstand- My dad had one the first day and was chasing this high the rest of the trip. Sausages you get in restaurants don’t seem to compare to the ones at the würstelstands in terms of size. 

-Spinach ravioli (woo!)- Kerri got rather frustrated after a couple dinners where the only vegetarian option was spinach ravioli. 

-Augustiner beer hall- We went to the one in Salzburg but they also have one in Munich. It was a unique experience in a gigantic facility with self serve beer stations and food stalls- lots of options! They only serve one beer- whatever happens to be in season at the time. 

Drinks

-Wine- We had lots of wine but one in particular was unique to Austria: Gemischter Satz (field blend wine of Vienna). 

-Sturm- Sturm is a uniquely Austrian drink. It’s a fermented grape juice (basically a very young wine). It’s only available for about a month every fall, and it tastes a bit like a cross between a wine and cider- sweet, light, and low in alcohol content. Most of the wineries and bars we went to had sturm as an offering. We also got a kick out of this since we have a couple of friend with the last name Sturm- Dan started taking photos of every Sturm sign we saw and amassed quite the collection!

-Ammutson Craft Beer Dive- We went here on the first night (we did a great job of overcoming our jet lag!). They had some great craft beers, including sours (my new favorite), and we met a few expats. One guy had grown up in a suburb near Elk Grove and now lives in Israel, and another girl was from the Minneapolis area and had married an Austrian man. 

-Steigl- Dan, Dad. Warren. and I went to the Steigl brewery in Salzburg while the girls were doing their Sound of Music tour. Steigl is pretty widely distributed so we had tried it in the past. I enjoyed their radler (fruit + beer). 

People

-Mom, Dad, Kerri, and Warren- This was our first time traveling internationally with my parents or Kerri and Warren, and we had a blast! My parents adapted quite well, although some things were a challenge throughout the trip (they could not get used to not having a top sheet). We had lots of laughs, did tons of walking, and now have lots of great memories from the trip. 

Observations and Insights

-My dad was in heaven with German food. He could eat sausages, sour kraut, and schnitzel all day, every day.

Look at that smile!

-We were all craving a salad by the time we got back to the U.S. Other than potatoes, we didn’t have any fruit and vegetables the entire week we were in Austria and Germany. 

-Sausages are very different place to place (my dad was disappointed by the small ones at many of the restaurants we went to).

-Twin beds- Europeans love their twin beds. Every place we stayed had one “master” bedroom with a bigger bed for two and then a couple other rooms with two twin beds. Sometimes the twin beds were pushed together to make one bed, sometimes not. Observe below. 

-No AC- Not a major issue at the time of year we were visiting, although the rooms were a bit stuffy at night. Could be more of a problem if you visit in the summer.

-Lots of family time allows some time for silliness. Observe below- Warren decided to roll down the hill at Schloss Schoenbrunn. 

Tips

-Almost everyone speaks English so Austria was a very easy country to get around.

-The weather was pretty great when we were there. Dan and I strongly recommend considering travel during “shoulder season” (the time just before and after the big tourist seasons). By traveling during spring or fall, you can experience decent weather with less tourists and better prices. 

-If you’re planning to visit Vienna and also go to Oktoberfest, be cognizant of prices being higher by virtue of this big annual tourist draw. Book plenty in advance if you want to stay in a decent place!

-Trains are a simple and fun way to get around in between cities (and countries) in Europe. Doing three cities in 8 days was pretty manageable since we were able to get from city to city within a few hours by train. 

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Portland

Dan and I decided to head to Portland for a long weekend to celebrate our 5 year wedding anniversary. We had been to Portland once before, but only for a day (and it had been in January so not the best weather). We were excited to get back and do more exploring, go on some hikes, drink lots of beer, and eat some delicious food. Portland definitely did not disappoint! 

Highlights

-Staying at The Nines- Dan and I decided to stay in a fancier hotel than usual for this trip since we were celebrating our 5 year wedding anniversary. And it was luxurious! Lots of pretty blue accents in the room, a super comfy bed, robes, gentle music, and great housekeeping...I’ve never stayed in a hotel before where they come back a second time to make sure your blankets are turned down and slippers are waiting next to the bed for you at night! The hotel was also centrally located in downtown Portland, which made it fairly easy to get to all of the neighborhoods we wanted to check out within a 15 minute drive. 

The hotel left us some fancy chocolates and a nice note for our anniversary...

-Hiking at Council Crest Park- We got up early our first morning and hiked for a couple of hours to the top of Council Crest Park and then back down towards the Portland Zoo. Turns out the hike we did is one “T” of the 4T trail (trail, train, tram, trolley). We took the train back to our hotel at the end to get a second “T” in. It was perfect hiking weather and made for a lovely walk through the woods and up to the top, where we had a nice view of some of the mountains. 

Below is one of the fancy houses we glimpsed through the trees as we hiked. 

-Exploring different neighborhoods: Portland is definitely a city of neighborhoods, and we made it our mission to check out as many as we could in our three short days there. On Friday, we went up to the Alberta Arts District, an artsy area packed with delicious food spots, beer, coffee, tea, and fancy boutiques. On Saturday, we checked out 23rd street (Northwest Portland), where there was more shopping (some independent spots, some more mainstream). That evening, we briefly wandered down Division St and Hawthorne St (definitely need to spend more time in those areas if we go back!). On Sunday, we did a little more wandering on Hawthorne St before heading to another brewery.  

-Oregon Brewers Festival- As luck would have it, we landed in Portland just in time for a massive craft beer festival (Dan was in heaven). They had 80 beers from 80 different breweries, 2 ciders, and 4 wines. For just $20, you could get a plastic tasting mug and 13 tokens (1 3oz sample per token, or a full glass for 4 tokens). We didn’t end up using all our tokens but were able to try a bunch of delicious different beers from various breweries. I’ve recently stumbled into liking sour beers, and they had an amazing selection there! Among the ones I tried were a Framboise Rose Gose and a Belmont Street Bramble sour (sour blond ales aged in oak wine barrels with red raspberries and tangerine peel). We were also able to hang with friends (more on that to come), which always makes things more enjoyable!

-Portland Farmers Market at PSU- This is the most INSANE farmers market we have ever been to. It takes place on the campus at Portland State University and is a hodgepodge of people selling delicious food (hello, biscuit sandwiches), exquisite produce (I so badly wished we could have taken some home!), gorgeous bouquets of flowers, and things like cheese and jam. There were lots of families strolling around, including a couple with sets of twins (Portlanders seem to be a fertile bunch). 

-Finishing up the Africa video- After being inspired by Kristen Bell and Dax Shepard’s music video take on the classic Toto song, Dan and I filmed a lot of footage while in South Africa and Morocco on our trip last year. We decided our 5 year anniversary would be a perfect time to release the video, so we (meaning Dan- I was moral support), spent a lot of time on Saturday at a brewery finishing it up. 

-Hiking at Mount Tabor- A relatively easy but beautiful 3 mile hike. We went early in the day before it got too hot and were treated to the sight of three beautiful red-tailed hawks up close.

Bummers

-Portland was AMAZING. We could not think of any bummers other than not having enough time... we will definitely need to come back.

Eats

-Fancy brunch fare at Proud Mary- Recommended as a favorite brunch spot by my coworker, Peggy, this definitely lived up to expectations! I got fancy grilled cheese, and Dan got a yummy potato hash dish.

Reba was not a fan of the fancy juice I got at brunch. (”Like old asthma medicine!”)

-Salt & Straw- This is hands down our favorite ice cream in the whole world. While we usually visit in LA (sometimes more than once in a trip) it started in Portland and has since expanded to California (LA, San Francisco, and San Diego) and Washington (Seattle). Dan and I had a Fresh Cheese and Strawberries flavor, which tasted like strawberry cheesecake! One of our favorite flavors is an LA classic- salted, malted, chocolate chip cookie dough (to die for- but unfortunately not available in Portland). 

-Tusk- Another recommendation from Peggy that totally paid off. We went here for our anniversary dinner to get yummy middle eastern food. We ended up over ordering and stuffing ourselves, but it was so worth it! Among the highlights were chickpea fries, man’oushe (a Lebanese flatbread), Albacore tuna, and delicious greens.

-Biscuit sandwiches at the Farmers Market from Pine State Biscuits- Fresh made biscuits, fried chicken, bacon, and cheese, slathered in apple butter (me) or gravy (Dan). 

-Food trucks- So Portland is known for its food trucks, which we have experienced before, but sadly we did not get to take advantage of this time- so many awesome food spots that we never got around to. Next time!

Drinks

-Kombucha from Townshend’s Tea House- Kombucha is a fermented tea that is apparently a popular thing in Portland. The strawberry one we tried was decent, but in general kombucha is a bit funky for me. 

-So. Much. Beer. In addition to the Brewers Festival, we checked out a few different breweries: Great Notion, Cascade, Rogue Eastside Pub & Pilot Brewery, and Breakside. My personal favorite spot was Cascade- they had an extensive list of sour beers on tap, and all were delicious. Among the ones we tried were an apricot sour and an barrel-aged wild ale called Ingmeyer Bergman that Dan loved.

-Wine at Southeast Collective- We barely dipped our toe in with the Oregon wine scene but did squeeze one wine tasting in. Next time we come back, we are hoping to rent a car and drive out into wine country to do more exploring. 

People

-Dan’s aunt Reba and her friend Lisa- Reba lives just over the state border in Vancouver, Washington, and she’s known Lisa for a really long time (they used to work together). The two of them were on their way to a weekend camping trip with friends but met us for brunch in the Alberta Arts District on their way. We enjoyed a lovely brunch with good conversation and lots of laughter. 

-Larissa, Kevin, and Lauralyn- Larissa is a good friend of ours from college, and we had not seen her in about four years! She has been living in Portland for the past few years, so we met up with her, her boyfriend, Kevin, and her little sister, Lauralyn at the Brewers Festival. It was great catching up with her, and we are looking forward to her upcoming return to the Midwest!

Observations & Insights

-All of the ride share drivers seem more friendly and chatty than we are used to- it felt like we had the same conversation about the humidity in Chicago about 14 or 15 times. 

-Style is very different than back home- there are many more tattoos and more people with fun colored hair.

-There are lots of homeless people in Portland.

Tips

-Carry cash- it seems to be king around the many eateries, markets and watering holes of Portland. 

-Samples are the way to go- there are so many beers at each brewery so no sense in getting a full glass. We recommend getting flights instead so you can try more options!

-If you are able to, try to spend a week or two in Portland! There is so much to do, and we just scratched the surface. We are definitely hoping to be back sometime soon!

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SOURS!!! Kicking off a brew weekend in Grand Rapids. #speciation #beer #michigan https://ift.tt/2vZMVNi

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You make everyday sweeter ❤️ #portland #saltandstraw #weddinganniversary https://ift.tt/2Ai1AbQ

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Western Michigan

When our original plans for the weekend fell through, Dan and I decided to explore other options. We were still eager to get away so did some brief searching online just a few days beforehand and made a last minute plan to drive out to the Saugatuck/Douglas area of Michigan for a weekend of relaxation and lots of tasting (beer, cider, wine, cheese, and pie!). Turns out that western Michigan is an awesome spot for a weekend getaway from Chicago. We wanted to write about it so that other people looking for a quick trip could get some ideas!

Highlights

-Staying at Hop & Vine Inn- Staying in downtown Saugatuck or Holland is SUPER expensive (but with the obvious advantage of being walkable to most things). We both enjoy bed and breakfasts, and Dan realized that the town of Fennville is a good alternative base for exploring the area. It’s only a ten minute drive to Saugatuck and a twenty minute drive to Holland from there. He found Hop & Vine, which ended up working out great! The owners, Dan and Amber, were super friendly and welcoming. They greeted us with a welcome glass of wine, upgraded us to a bigger room with a fireplace, and served delicious food for breakfast. They also provided us with lots of good tips on places to check out in the area. They shared that they had only bought the inn about a year ago and have done a lot of work fixing it up. In addition to the 18 rooms, there’s a fire pit, pool, and sand volleyball pit. It’s especially nice because you could go as a couple, a group of friends, or a family with children and feel very welcomed and accommodated. We would definitely return!

-Wine tour at Fenn Valley- Michigan isn’t very well known for wine, but there are a number of wineries, especially on the western side of the state. They’re more well known for sweeter wines and fruit wines, but we tasted some decent reds are well. We went on a tour through the wine making facilities, with many samples along the way. 

-Cheese tasting at Evergreen Lane Creamery- We sampled about nine different kinds of goat and cow cheese at this tiny little spot in Fennville. The cheese was excellent, and the woman giving us the samples was very knowledgable. We also got to go meet the goats that live on the farm. Our hosts at the Hop & Vine said that often there will be no one working there and they just leave the cheese cooler and the cash drawer there so you can make your purchases (honor system!).

-Taste testing our way through town- Most of our Saturday consisted of trying out local brewing establishments. We started at Saugatuck Brewing Company, then did the tour at Fenn Valley Vineyards, then crossed the street over to Virtue Cider. After a brief break at our place, we headed back out to Holland and went to New Holland Brewing Company, Our Brewing Company, and Big Lake Brewing. 

-Meandering around Saugatuck, Douglas, and Holland- Western Michigan is full of cute, small towns with fun shops. 

-Playing board games with each other- Scrabble with wine at the Hop & Vine (unintentional rhyming there; also Dan won if you were wondering) and the digital version of The Game of Life while sampling beers in Holland (I won, but no skill involved there). It was nice to have the time and feel relaxed enough to while away time by playing a game together. 

Bummers

-We didn’t end up getting to the beach (means we will have to come back again!). It wasn’t warm enough yet Saturday morning and was rainy and cool on Sunday morning. 

- I got a nice sunburn on my back after just an hour of sitting at our first brewery. 

Eats

-Cheese from Evergreen Lane Creamery- Needless to say, we bought some more to take home after tasting all they had to offer. 

-Breakfast at Hop & Vine- Breakfast was lovingly crafted by our hosts at Hop & Vine. The first morning we had a ham and cheese omelet, cheese and artichoke pastry, fresh fruit, and yogurt and granola (so much food that we were able to skip lunch and just have a snack midday). The second morning they had a buffet style spread of breakfast food, including mini blueberry waffles. Super tasty!

-Comfort food at The Southerner in Saugatuck- Dan was brave enough to try the Nashville hot chicken biscuit with cheese, while I went with the honey butter fried chicken biscuit. 

-Dinner at New Holland Brewing Company- Dan had a patty melt and I had an open faced turkey sandwich with sweet peppers that was drowning in beer cheese. It was sooo good but super gluttonous and had me ready to pass out by 10pm. 

-Pie flight at Crane’s Pie Pantry Restaurant- Rhubarb, blueberry, cherry, and apple pie sampler. The apple pie was Dan’s favorite, while I enjoyed the blueberry (tasted like a blueberry poptart in the best possible way). 

Drinks

-Wine at Fenn Valley- We had 10 samples- several whites, a rosé, a few reds, and a sparkling wine in a can (designed to be taken to the pool or beach). Fun fact- one can of wine is half a bottle- yikes! That’s a dangerous four-pack. Some of the wines were types we had never heard of, so it was an interesting, informative tour. Also, with such generous samples throughout, everyone was feeling a little tipsy by the end of the tour. 

-Cider at Virtue Cider and Crane’s- We tried quite the variety of ciders at Virtue, ranging from bourbon barrel aged ciders to a Spanish style cider (very lemony and acidic). Prince Hal, a Welsh style barrel aged cider, was my favorite. We also did a cider flight at Crane’s and tried a cherry, blueberry, and bourbon barrel aged apple cider (and also a blueberry wine, The cherry cider was the best one that we had. 

-Beer at New Holland Brewing Company, Our Brewing Company, Big Lake Brewing- There is definitely a push towards more New English style IPA’s (any IPA’s really). We were also exposed to a tiny brewery outside of Grand Rapids called Speciation, when I got one of their sour beers at The Southerner. It was excellent but unfortunately, very hard to get your hands on! They release bottles at their brewery once a month but do not brew much and you can’t get it at a random liquor or grocery store. 

Tips

-Best to have a DD if you’re drinking your way through the area- there don’t seem to many ubers so it will take a while to get one and won’t be super cost effective. It worked well for us that Dan drove for the cider/wine part and then I drove to the Holland breweries in the evening. 

We definitely recommend adding Western Michigan to your bucket list for quick, easy weekend trips from Chicago! With all of the different activities available (from breweries to beaches to shopping to fruit picking), there’s something for everyone. It would make for a fun friends getaway, a romantic vacation, or a family trip. Let us know if you head out there and have any tips for the next time we go!

[postcards-fromafar]

Pie flight + Cider flight made for a sweet ending to the weekend! #cranespiepantry #fennville https://ift.tt/2xD3TFg

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Had a great time at #THAW2018 tonight! Thanks to @jescgood for the invite! https://ift.tt/2pUh9Pn

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Medellín

We were really looking forward to Medellín, and it did not disappoint! Formerly known as the most dangerous city in the world, Medellín has come a long way over the last couple decades. We found it to be a vibrant, colorful city full of interesting culture, food, and people. Surrounded by mountains, the scenery is fantastic in any direction you look. 

Highlights

-Free walking tour with Monsa from Real City Tours- This was definitely one of the best free walking tours we have done. The tour was 4 hours long and took us around Medellín’s downtown (El Centro). We checked out parks, squares, sculptures, and learned about both history and culture. 

-Casa de la Memoria museum- This was a unique museum that offered a perspective on the history of violence and armed conflict in Colombia. Many of the information plaques were in Spanish but easy to understand nonetheless, and the various exhibits were compelling and powerful. It pays tribute to both those who have been murdered as well as those who are still missing. 

-Checking out the views at Pueblito Paisa- Dan and I took a taxi up in the rain to the top of Nutibarra Hill. Once the rain stopped and the fog cleared a bit, we got some fantastic views of the city at night. 

-Going out with Andy and Daniela- We went out three nights in a row with Andy and Daniela. They took us to a couple great restaurants as well as a bar where we tried learning a couple of salsa moves (spoiler alert: dancing is not my strong suit). Daniela took me and Elise out on the dance floor to show us how to move, and some random Colombian girl got up and took me by both hands and started showing me how to step. It was a great time, aided by a full bottle of the local Aguardiente (which translates to “fire water”). 

-Practicing my Spanish- I had SO much fun practicing my Spanish while in Colombia. Unlike in places like Mexico where there are many American tourists and people respond to you in English, Colombia has a lot more tourists from Spanish-speaking countries and less English speakers. That meant that when I would speak to someone in Spanish, they would actually reply back to me in Spanish. Since we were spending a lot of time with Daniela, I also had a wonderful time chatting with her. She is taking English classes now so was able to practice some of her English with us, and then we spent the rest of the time talking in Spanish about our lives, travels, and Colombian culture. 

-Day trip to Guatapé- We took a two hour bus from Medellín to the town of Guatapé. We started off by hiking up the 650 steps to the top of Piedra de Peñol, where we were treated to fantastic views. We then spent a while wandering around the colorful city of Guatapé. 

-Graffiti tour of Comuna 13- Formerly a very dangerous and poor community, Comuna 13 has been transformed over the last 15 years. There are 3 designated graffiti artists who have created stunning art all over the neighborhood. The neighborhood has also been changed for the better by a giant escalator (384 meters) that has made the journey home from work much easier for the area’s inhabitants. Instead of having to hike uphill about 28 stories, people can now get up in just a few minutes on the escalator. 

Bummers

-Pushy people near the Piedra de Penol- This was not so much a bummer as a general nuisance. Several people were pushing tuk tuks and one guy at the bottom of the hill was very persistent in trying to get us to rent his horse to ride up to the base of the rock. “Caballo? Horse?” He kept offering despite our repeated refusals. This became one of the running jokes of the trip.

-Flight changes and delays- We had planned to have a half day on our first day in Medellín, with a direct flight from Cartagena. Then the airline removed that route, so we had to layover in Bogotá. Then our flights got delayed, and we didn’t end up getting in until after midnight. The airport is at the top of a mountain, so the drive in to the city is a treacherous, winding road down the mountain taken at breakneck speed by a questionable cabbie. Elise and I were both having paranoia about the doors flying off at some point and us rolling out of the car and down the mountain. 

Eats

-Arepas con queso- A type of bread made with cornmeal, topped with cheese. Yummy, filling breakfast food

-Bandeja paisa- Considered to be one of the national dishes, bandeja paisa consists of minced meat, chicharrones, chorizo, rice, beans, avocado, arepa, and fried eggs (give or take one or more other things). I did not end up enjoying it (very heavy, some of the meat grossed me out) but it seemed like a must try so I’m glad I gave it a go!

-Ajiaco- A traditional soup made with chicken, potatoes, corn, and avocado

-Empanadas- Pastries stuffed with meat and cheese. They were very different than the Cuban empanadas that I’m used to- still tasty but very heavy.

Drinks

-Micheladas- Beer with lime juice and spicy salt on the rim. An easy, go to drink.

-Aguardiente- Essentially “fire water.” Tastes like licorice and goes down fairly easily. We tried it at Andy’s and then bought a bottle at the bar. You do a shot and then can chase it with green mango. 

-Limonada de coco- I had to have limonada de coco on a daily basis after discovering it in Cartagena. In Medellín, I made the discovery that adding some rum in makes for an excellent cocktail. 

-Fancy cocktails at Clandestino- Mine came in a box with dried plants. Another one was smoke infused. The tiny bar was tucked inside another bar/restaurant behind a curtain and was very secretive and gothic inside. 

People

-Andy- Dan knew Andy from the design program at Notre Dame. When we decided to go to Colombia, Dan remembered that Andy had posted on Facebook about investing in an awesome property that he was now renting on Airbnb. When Dan messaged him out renting it, we learned that Andy was actually staying in Colombia now. He graciously invited us to stay with him and was a great host. In addition to giving us tips on where to go and what to do, he and Daniela went out with us each night and showed us around. 

-Daniela- Andy knew Daniela from the last time he was in Colombia and reconnected with her upon his return to Medellín. Daniela was absolutely lovely, sweet, and so much fun to hang out with. She was very patient with me while I was searching for words in Spanish, and we greatly enjoyed her company while going out!

Observations and Insights

-When you say Medellín, the immediate response from a lot of people is “Pablo Escobar” or “Narcos.” The people in Medellín have a very conflicting opinions about Pablo Escobar- on one hand, he helped a lot of poor people by building homes and such; on the other hand, he was responsible for many, many murders. As such, our guide chose to refer to him as “Voldemort” instead of by  name. She told us that most people who are walking by will hear English, English, English, Pablo Escobar- and then will sometimes try to engage with her and argue. It’s easier to say Voldemort and not have the use of the name draw unnecessary attention. 

-Medellín has come such a long way in the last 15-20 years. Part of the huge change stems from the efforts they have made to make life easier for the poor. In addition to the escalator I mentioned earlier, they built a cable car system in 2004 that connects poorer neighborhoods to the city center. Instead of having to commute 2-3 hours each way to get to work, residents are now able to make the journey in about half an hour. Easier to get to work= more people working= less crime. 

Tips

-Uber exists in Colombia and is easy to use. It’s a great option if you don’t speak Spanish and are not comfortable getting a taxi.

-Eat breakfast! It’s so tasty, cheap, and fast to stop at a local shop and grab some arrepas. 

[postcards-fromafar]

Cartagena

South America has been untapped territory for the two of us so far. Prior to this trip, Costa Rica was the most southern country we had been to in the Americas. We chose Colombia based on rave reviews from friends, the ease of traveling there, and the ability to have a variety of experiences ranging from hanging at the beach to exploring more urban areas. After a quick flight to Atlanta, we hopped on a 3.5 hour flight down to Cartagena. Check out the view from our hotel below...

Highlights

-Exploring the Old City- As soon as we arrived in Cartagena and dropped our stuff off at the hotel, we hopped in a taxi to go to the old city (a quick 5 minute drive). We went on a free walking tour and learned more about the history of the city.

-Palacio de la Inquisición- A beautiful example of Spanish colonial architecture, this building also housed the Inquisition in Cartagena and now is a museum that details the horrors of that time. We read about the history and viewed various torture instruments, including a spiked collar. Targets of the Inquisition included witches, Jews, and heretics, among others. 

-Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas- A Spanish fortress built atop San Lázaro hill with a complex series of tunnels. It was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984. 

-Wandering around Getsemani- We stayed in Bocagrande, a thin strip of land with ocean on both sides and lots of newer hotels. Gestemani is the edgier, more hipster neighborhood in Cartagena with lots of cool street art, hostels, and happening night life. When we went there one night for dinner and drinks, there was a giant street party of sorts going on, with lots of people dancing and singing. There were also mimes- one of whom followed me down the street and scared me half to death. After dinner, we hit up a craft beer bar and did some exploring to check out the street art. If we ever return to Cartagena, Getsemani would be a neat place to stay and explore further. 

-Chiva- I was torn about whether to put this in the highlight or bummer section but decided to leave it here for its value as a cultural experience. A chiva is a colorful party bus that transports you around the town while listening to live music (the musicians ride on the back of the bus) and drinking rum and coke. It was completely in Spanish, so we were not able to fully understand the commentary by the leader but enjoyed checking out the city at night. Halfway through, they dropped us off at part of the old wall to explore, get snacks, and hang out with other chiva tour groups. 

-Staying at the Blue Apple Beach House on Isla de Tierra Bomba- This is pretty self explanatory. We took a half hour boat ride over to Tierra Bomba and then stayed at an island beach house for two nights. This was good for all of the reasons you might expect- we went swimming in the ocean and the pool, kayaked, sunbathed, played games, got massages, and generally relaxed. They also had a restaurant and bar on site.

-Being goofy with each other- It’s always nice to hang out with people you can let loose around and be weird :) 

Bummers

-Hyatt Regency Cartagena charging us extra- When we booked the hotel room with two double beds, they did not ask how many people would be in the room. However, upon arrival, they insisted on charging us more for having four people.

-The bathrobes at Blue Apple were... a bit small for Dan and Gabe. 

-The inability to take Lisa (the dog) home with us from Blue Apple- Added by special request from Gabe and Elise. Lisa was the friendly local Blue Apple dog. She clearly has the best life- she hangs out with guests during the day and each night goes down to the beach to lie on the sand while the sun sets. Also, she didn’t beg the way the cats did while we were eating dinner. 

Eats

-Seafood- Cooked fish, ceviche, seafood salad. You name it, we ate it (or at least, Dan did). I really enjoyed the fish with coconut rice. Since Cartagena is on the coast, the seafood is super fresh and delicious.

-Dan’s meal at La Cevicheria:  Mulata Tropical Paella was a special seafood paella that was taken to the max with the addition of coconut milk. He could barely put words together while he was eating; it was a spiritual experience.

-Ceviche from La Cevicheria- Gabe and Elise got the ceviche and shared a taste with us. It was fresh and delicious. When asked for his commentary about the ceviche, Dan said, “I don’t know, I was blacked out.” (See aforementioned bliss about his paella).

-Coconut rice- Cooked using coconut milk and sugar, coconut rice is super tasty, especially with fish.

-Arepas- A thick tortilla type food made of ground maize dough or cooked flour. We had a lot of these while in Colombia- sometimes filled with egg and sausage, sometimes by themselves, sometimes with cheese or other toppings.

-Food at Blue Apple Beach House- We had lots of tasty food at Blue Apple, including the chicken sandwich below, tomato salad, paella, and more.

-La Mulada- As a last hurrah in Cartagena before heading to Medellín, we went to La Mulada for lunch. One of Gabe’s friends, Dale, had described it as “My senses had never had such an experience. Amazing.” In addition to the complimentary soup and plantains, I had fish and coconut rice again and Dan had shrimp. 

Drinks

-Club Colombia beer- Standard international lager. In Dan’s words, “it did the job.” 

-Cocktails at the pool and on the beach- Well mixed and a delightful addition to our time in the sun.

-Limonada de coco- Coconut limeade was the single greatest discovery of the trip. I'm not sure how to describe it other than to say it’s an absolute party in your mouth. Elise and I fully intend to try making this at home. Bonus: it tastes good with a shot of rum added in too.  Here’s a recipe if you want to try your hand at it.

-Coffee- It is Colombia after all. Gabe got coffee made by a siphon one morning, which was nifty to watch. 

People

-Gabe & Elise- Dan’s brother, Gabe, and his girlfriend, Elise, joined us for our first trip together as couples (we had previously traveled with Gabe a few years back in Europe for two weeks). Gabe and Elise were great travel companions who were game for exploring, trying all sorts of food, and watching funny youtube videos with us.

Observations and Insights

-Most likely to die by: Having your boat to the island sink from them packing too many people and bags in at once. 

-There are hawkers everywhere trying to sell all sorts of different things- water, beer, hats, and more. There was a surprising lack of convenience stores, so we ended up buying water from them several times. 

-One of the more interesting ploys to earn money that we saw was teenage boys who would start following you down the street and rapping about you to the beat of well known hip hop songs. Usually there would be a mention of “zapatos,” not sure why they were always mentioning people’s shoes. If you didn’t ignore them and plow forward, they would try to get you to tip them after the performance. 

-Cartagena is definitely more touristy than Medellín, but many tourists in Colombia are from other Spanish speaking countries like Argentina and Chile. As such, when we would speak to someone in Spanish, they would respond back in Spanish rather than automatically switching to English the way you see in a lot of the world. This meant I got to practice my Spanish a decent amount, which was great!

Tips

-Taxis are super easy to use- It only cost ~$2-3 USD to get from our hotel to the old city. The pricing was very consistent and no one tried to rip us off (which is a common issue we have run into with taxis in other countries.)

-If you’re interested in Cartagena and live in the US, it’s totally doable to take one or two days off work and make a long weekend trip out of it! It’s super easy to get to and not very expensive.