Marcello Mastroianni in Matrimonio all’Italiana
If you haven’t seen Marriage Italian Style, do yourself a favor. Spanning the close of the second world war and into the late 1950′s, slick businessman, Domenico Soriano, played by the very suave Marcello Mastroianni, drips sartorial elegance. With over 8 different suits and separates outfits throughout the film, there is plenty for the menswear enthusiast to lust over.
Always softly tailored in a typically Continental style, Marcello is mostly seen in a three piece suit, with the exception of a few double breasted options and some more casual ensembles. Freely gesticulating, slouching and leaning on anything that can be lent on, Marcello’s clothes move with him staying close to the body without stifling his movement.
Most of the suits throughout the film are 3 piece with a high waist coat, a 2 button ventless jacket, and single pleat trousers with what looks like a 5cm cuff. The 3 pieces have an distinct Edwardian feel, mostly due the high cut of the waistcoat, the jackets all feature a softly tailored shoulder with a lapel that rolls almost all the way to the 2nd button, the lapels are mostly notch, this soft silhouette provides the Italian flair. Whether the jackets could be considered strictly Neapolitan or just continental in style is up for debate, Marcello’s tailor, Vittorio Zenobi was Roman himself however some of the more casual outfits do feature more typically Neapolitan styling.
This houndstooth three piece would have to be my favourite of all the 3 pieces, the simplicity of the light blue tab collar shirt and navy tie is particularly elegant, this tonal match in shirting and neck wear is also seen in the following mid grey chalk stripe.
The double breasted suits maintain the same soft tailoring as seen in the single breasted coats, curiously one of the double breasted suits features a double vent while the rest of the suits are ventless, with only a casual sports jacket being the only other jacket with a vent. Maybe a personal piece of wardrobe not created for the film?
The casual ensembles I feel reflect a more typically Neapolitan style, being mostly cottons such as a separates outfit of a tan jacket with a half belt pleated back and single vent that has patch pockets all round.
Whats to go with the black socks Marcello? this is the only 2 piece suit in the entire film.
These two porkpie hats are worth showing, very 60′s
Marcello maintains an elegant visage throughout the entire film, it could just be his amazing hair but there is no disputing his wardrobe for the film, formal suiting with a casual elegance through soft tailoring and texture heavy fabrics, and simple shirt and tie combinations for the outfits are always simple and do not detract from Marcello himself. If you haven’t seen it, do yourself a favour.
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