Sem vinho não há amor

A brief journey through Portuguese tascas

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Best modern tascas and what to eat

Tasca da Esquina

Open since 2009 this is considered to be the the first modern tasca to open in Lisbon, paving way to all the others that followed and learned from here. By the hands of the renowned chef Vítor Sobral (assisted by chef Hugo Nascimento and chef Luís Espadana) comes out reinvented Portuguese food aimed at all people from different ages. It’s a restaurant that offers daily ingredients and classic dishes but if you’re feeling more adventurous you can try the menu that lets you in “the hands of the chefs” where a bunch of different options are served in what resembles a degustation menu (7 plates + 1 dessert) – in a more relaxed, tasca style environment. From the very diverse list of Portuguese petiscos you can find pineapple and shrimp soup, rabbit salad, codfish and chickpeas and several other seafood options.

Tasca da Esquina tries to mimic the feeling of having a meal at your mother’s house and for the fact that Vítor Sobral was a pioneer of the modern tascas allied to good quality of the food served, this is a place you need to know.

Rua Domingos Sequeira 41 C, Lisboa

MON-SUN 12.30-15.30/19.0-23.30

Taberna do Calhau

After commanding the kitchen of Café Garrett at the Teatro Nacional D. Maria II (Lisbon), Leopoldo Garcia decided to move to Mouraria, one of the most traditional neighborhoods in the capital. He bought all the furniture a friend of his had at a different restaurant and set up a restaurant where people can find “different suggestions meant to be shared”, says the owner and chef. Since July of 2019 that Taberna do Calhau serves mostly traditional dishes from the Alentejo but with influence from all over Portugal. Here you can find delicacies such as cabeça de xara (a pátê made from pig’s head), shrimp soup with lupin beans, the classic açorda de bacalhau or the chef’s most famous dish: ‘alentejaninha’: grilled pork cheeks served with a sauce inspired in the infamous Porto city’s favourite ‘francesinha’.

Leopoldo also gives the deserved importance to olive oil, serving 14 different types of one of the most common Portuguese culinary products which you can take home (for a price!) after finishing your meal.

Largo das Olarias 23, Lisboa

MON, WED-SAT 12.00-15.00/19.00-00.00, SUN 19.00-00.00

Taberna Sal Grosso

With the small capacity of sitting up to 30 people, Taberna Sal Grosso is considered to be one of the best in the capital. Or at the least the one that does this perfect connection between the old and the new. With a proper tasca vibe all over, available dishes written in a chalkboard hanging in the wall, Joaquim Leal and his team do a little bit of everything whenever is needed. You may seem them cook but they will also take you to your table if necessary. It is with this friendly environment that the chef and owner tries to “eliminate the barrier between the service team and the kitchen” and makes it easier for “everyone to feel they are part of everything”. With seasonal menu changes, you need to try some of the most appreciated choices in this restaurant like the pastéis de bacalhau or the escabeche de codorniz. Other Portuguese classic ingredients (even if cooked with modern touches) like ray/skate, oxtail and livers are served here. If you still find some space for dessert, you should try the homemade bread pudding, a household success.

Good environment sympathy and will to serve amazing food to the ones who pass by are fundamental keys for the success of this place.

Calçada do Forte 22, Lisboa

MON 12.00-16.00, TUE-SAT 12.00-16.00/20.00-00

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10 typical dishes you can find in tascas

Fish, seafood, wine, and delicious pastries. These are all popular parts of the Portuguese gastronomy that you’re likely to be familiar with. The country has many more delicacies to offer that you can enjoy with some being more specific to certain regions, showcasing the long-standing traditions the country has.

So, sit back and enjoy discovering Portuguese gastronomy and the many dishes that tascas have to offer you.

Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato

Clams done with olive oil, coriander, garlic and white wine, the perfect dish to dip your bread accompanied with a cold beer.

Bacalhau à Brás

Shredded cod with onions, fried potato sticks, black olives, parsley and scrambled eggs, a good bacalhau à brás will melt in your mouth.

Pataniscas de Bacalhau

Shredded cod, four, eggs, parsley and onions make this delicious fried dish. These cod fritters can be a snack, a starter or a main dish served with a variety of rice or salads.

Iscas com elas

Pork liver strips with boiled potatoes, onion, garlic, white wine, vinegar and parsley. The thin strips of pork liver are known for “iscas” and the potatoes for the “elas”. It can also be served with french fries.

Meia-desfeita

Shredded cod, chickpeas, onions, garlic, cooked eggs, olive oil, vinegar and parsley. Typical dish of the Lisbon neighborhood of Mouraria, the cod dish was once known as poor food.

Cozido à Portuguesa

Beef, pork, chorizos, smoked sausages, cabbage, beans, carrots, turnip and rice. The water used to cook all these ingredients becomes a nutritious broth that can be used to cook the rice or to have it as a soup. It is typically served on Sunday lunch.

Caldo Verde

Green cabbage, potatoes, chorizo, onions and garlic. One of the best comfort foods.

Sardinhas assadas

It is not summer if you can’t have these! Grilled sardines with salt and olive oil, they can be served alone or with varieties of rice, salads, boiled potatoes. Pro tip: place a slice of bread underneath your sardines so it soaks all the good fats!

Polvo à Lagareiro

Octopus, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and parsley. The province of Trás-os-Montes is the one that has the most affinity with this recipe - it is served at the Christmas dinner - and it is not surprising considering the good olive oil from Trás-os-Montes and its tradition in the treatment of the olive tree.

Alheira de Mirandela

A classic among smoked sausages and chorizo, usually served fried with a fried egg and french fries. Alheira is a smoked sausage from the region of Mirandela that is located on the north of Portugal, the sausage normally contains poultry meat, bread, pork fat, garlic and paprika.

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The requirements of a tasca

For a restaurant to be a tasca it needs to fulfill some specifications. We gathered some of the characteristics that help to define one so next time you visit a tasca you can pay attention to these (some pitoresque!) details:

1. Paper towel on the table.

2. Showcase with boiled eggs, meat or fish and some Portuguese delicacies.

3. Bay leaves hanging from the ceiling .

4. Pictures from famous people who visited the tasca.

5. A tile explaining the “fiado policy” of the restaurant.

6. Wine or brandy described as House made products.

7. Homemade deserts.

8. Tile as a decorative element.

9. The waiter will tell you always that the house wine is very good and that one dish is enough for two persons and if needed he will bring more rice.

10. If you leave food on the tray the waiters will always assume you didn’t like.

11. Cozido à Portuguesa once a week in a specific day (usually Sunday).

12. Appetizers constitute of, packed butter, sardine pate, bread and cheese.

13. Napkin inside the glass.

14. The dishes of the day Always wrote on a paper table towel.

16. The bill is made on the paper towel you’ve just used for your meal.

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A brief introduction to the world of tascas

What does tasca mean? According to the Portuguese dictionary tasca is a “humble place that sells drinks and meals”. In the current daily Portuguese vocabulary you can find many synonyms for tasca such as tasquinha, tasco, taberna, adega, casa de pasto, petisqueira, cervejaria.

By yourself, with friend or family, going to a tasca to have some petiscos is always a good idea. Between several meat and fish options, you will be surprised with the variety of smells and aromas coming out of those kitchens. Tascas are a place of sharing either it’s ideas, opinions, little snacks or jars of wine, there is always space for one more.

Tascas are one of the pillars of the Portuguese popular gastronomy increasingly influenced by the cosmopolitanism of the modern cuisine although always trying to keep the roots of the Portuguese cusine.

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Introduction to our project

"Sem vinho não há amor" was created in January of2020 with the ambition of bringing the best possible knowledge about the amazing culture and gastronomy of the tascas in Portugal.

We are a group of Culinary Arts students from Escola de Hotelaria e Turismo de Lisboa and this project is developed by Bernardo Martins, Luisa Müller, Miguel Lapa and Raquel Espadinha. We are all Portuguese with a common interest and passion for the extraordinary uniqueness of the tascas and their importance to the history of our gastronomy.

In our minds we thought that this was an interesting and important subject to approach because it is a big chunk of our gastronomy and daily routine that we might not appreciate or notice it as we should. We are in favour of the projects that are willing to keep portuguese gastronomy alive, bringing old manners to modern times and always respecting history and tradition.

We hope to bring accurate information and share our love for tascas, their food and their people!