SgGeek Blog

3D Animator by day, maker by night. I enjoy playing with micro controllers, tinkering, learning about open source. These are my trials and tribulations.

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Xbee basics - FRAMES 

Just like every sentence has a structure, The way Xbee’s communicate also has a structure. This structure is called a FRAME. It looks typically like this :

7E 00 14 92 00 13 A2 00 40 CC 86 29 02 A4 01 01 00 10 00 00 10 F5

A sentence is usually identified by a capital letter in the beginning, ending with a full stop. For Xbee, the sentence structure is first consisting of a number of bytes. The start byte, is 0x7E (also referred commonly as 7E, i’ll use the “0x” prefix generously as most tutorials you see will do that too). 

The next 2 bytes indicate the length of the whole frame. So you can say that 7E is the capital letter of a sentence, while 00 14 indicates how long this sentence is. For the example above 00 14 adds up in Hex as 14, which is 18 in decimal ( the usual number system we use ). 

We can now start counting the number of bytes after 14. You’ll realize that there are actually 19 bytes!! Why this is because the last byte, F5 is actually called a CHECKSUM. Turns out , most electronic hardware are really smart, when they send data to each other, they try to make sure that the data is correct. There’s a way this checksum is calculated, but lets keep that at the back of our minds right now.

The next byte after the length, is 92. This is the the FRAME TYPE, it explains what the rest of the frame might be. For example, if your 4th byte is 92, it means it is getting IO input from one of the pins that is connected to the Xbee. There is a list of different Frame type numbers, each frame type has a different meaning.   For the full list of meanings, check it out here : https://docs.digi.com/display/XBeeZigBeeMeshKit/Frame+structure So you can say that the Frame type is like telling us the type of sentence this is.   After frame type comes the 64bit address of the Xbee. Its like a serial number of sorts. It usually starts with 00 13 A2 00 (As most Xbees will have the same first 4 bytes) then for the above example, the next 4 bytes are 40 CC 86 29. These 8 bytes (64 bits) make up the serial number of the Xbee! 

The next 2 bytes are an internal IP of sorts. 02 A4 is what the coordinator Xbee issued to this Xbee. So if you think of the Coordinator Xbee as your home WIFI router, it issues any device connected to it an IP address. Your phone/ computer for example, will have an internal IP of 192.168.1.12. This is an internal IP within your home LAN which is different from how you look like to the rest of the internet. The same is happening to Xbee. 02 A4 is a random “IP of sorts” that has been issued to it. 

The rest of the bytes 01 01 00 10 00 00 10. Is telling you what pins you’ve configured to receive data or transmit data. Xbee has about 10pins depending on which model you get, and these pins can capture either a HIGH LOW , digital in/out put, as well as ANALOG, maybe temperature or humidity in/output. These bytes are an indication if out of those pins, which ones are turned on and which ones are turned off, you can set it all in XCTU, you probably just need to know the last byte. Which is typically the data that you’re trying to capture. For our case, its 10! which means I’ve received a HIGH on one of my digital pins. 

the last byte F5 is the checksum. Remember when I told you to keep checksum at the back of your mind. Well, right now, we’ve almost reached the end of this frame. The checksum adds up all the bytes from the 4th byte to the 2nd last byte. We’ll tentatively call this amount CKS. The equation is so :

0xFF - 0xCKS = <checksum value>

For our case all the bytes from byte 4 to 2nd last byte , taken away from FF is actually F5. So our sentence has officially ended.

Well hope my primer to the Xbee communication is beneficial for the noobies like me. Cheers

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The Learning Curve 

To be honest the Xbee has been a steep learning curve and this few weeks has been one of the toughest yet. This post is more of a “note-to-self“. Being faced with new hardware, and a gargantuan task of learning about it and programming it into a viable product. There have been many-a-time I thought of giving up. Thoughts of  “I am probably not the most qualified person to take up this job” came up.  It got me thinking about how we should all proceed when faced with such a task. Not only, how to continue learning, but how to pace yourself and come up with strategies when u know you probably will not be able to understand everything at one go.  First, you have to understand how you learn. For me, ( i’m not sure if it resembles you too ) but you first start out with a really simple tutorial. The tutorial promises a very interesting effect with very minimal work. Basically just copy the code and copy the set-up and everything will work. And true enough 100% of the time it does.  Then I start to expand this knowledge. I’ll copy it a few times, change an attribute here and there, see if it works. This is my exploration phase. Where I am still using the tutorial’s code, but I just switch things around. Unsure of where to place what and how the same code will still work but with some of my own input. Then at stage 3 (the Head-banging phase as I call it), I’ll say “ i need it to do XXX YYY” and I’ll try to copy code here and there, switch attributes to variables. Then this is mostly when I hit my first brick wall. Often I’ll see too far and forget to realize that I have yet to grasp the basics yet. Yes yes, the code works in the tutorial, but my own case is rather specific, and furthermore, I have to understand how to WRITE the code properly first. My brain tells me to stop and read, but my fingers will just keep on typing , substituting “int” for “byte” for “unsigned int” indiscriminately just to see what works. And if it works, I’ll totally forget about it and go on to some other things. So , after stage 3, (which usually drags on for quite awhile) I’ll move on to the RTFM ( Read the Fuckin’ Manual ) stage. There are too many things that I don’t know and the only way around it is RTFM. This stage is usually the longest, as I have to know what I don’t know, which sometimes... you really don’t know because you have yet to know it yet. =/ This is where I’m stuck now. In between wanting to do something, and the lacking of enough knowledge to execute it properly. I try often to keep asking forums, friends, and RTFM at the same time. But there really is a big gap between knowing somethings and final delivery. And in forums, I even have a problem writing down the problem because I have no idea how to describe it and hence, back to RTFM. 

So I decided I probably need a strategy if I need to go on. First, I’ll need a proper reason. Write it down and stick it around. Never forget why you started. Very often I give up because I have forgotten what passion drove me in the first place. Acknowledge and write down the small things you learn every single day. Which... I really should practice. Not writing it down really downplays the amount of knowledge I’ve acquired along the way. Yeap... I should. Now I need to find a pen.  

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Small success with the XBee a few weeks ago. I’ve been able to communicate 3 Xbees with the main Co-ordinator. Now when each Xbee has been pressed, I will know which one. But the code is rather untidy and doesn’t do the relevant checks yet. 

What it does now is. There’s plenty of data coming into the (Main) Co-ordinator Xbee. If it is data coming from another Xbee in the same network, check. After this first check passes, put all the data from this Frame into an array. Then look for the 19th index of this array. If the data is 0, print “0″. If the 19th index is 10 (HEX), which is 16 decimal, go to array’s 9th and 10th element, shift (add) them together , and print out their Serial. Then next line, we print, “has been pressed”  

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TIL (Today I learned) - Hex a number system for the 16-fingered hero. 

Lets start with HEX! No no, its not the spell on Warcraft, although it would be a pretty nice thing to turn your friend into a frog. HEX is a number system with  16 characters. 

I have often wondered why the number systems of the Chinese and Europeans have 10 digits, despite being worlds apart. Turns out, it has got to do with us having 10-fingers! (you don’t say~~) 

Our regular number system containing 0-9, is called a number system with a base of 10, also called the decimal number system. Hexadecimal (or Hex)  is a number system containing 0-9, A-F , which has a base of 16. Which means A = 11, B =12... F =16. 

But why would we do that?! Turns out, with a base-16 number system, using 2 digits, we could actually describe 256 numbers! Eg. A5 (Hex) == 165 (Decimal). 

To understand HEX, we’ll have to go wayyy back into the time machine where 1 BIT started its existence. A bit is a number system with base of 2(binary), 0 and 1. The most basic of logic gates just described things as either off or on, i.e.: 0 and 1. If electricity passed through it , this circuit is set at 1, if not, it means this circuit is set as 0. But humans thought it was too boring. They put up a series of 8 logic gates one after another, (of course I’m massively simplifying this logic). Which gave way to the BYTE. Which is equals to 8bits. A byte looks like this : 01011001 or 01111111, or 00000000 etc.

But since humans are always finding new ways to represent numbers, HEX, came about so we could write e.g:  01001110 into 4E.  In this example 4 = 0100, and E = 1110. So we just place them side by side, to use 2 characters to represent something that used to use 8 characters! And with this 2 characters, there are actually 256 states that could exist! 

Why is hex important? Well it is because i’m trying to learn this Xbee thing. And being a computer part, it deals with bytes, Hex and I am in the process of appreciating what they mean. I think this is as much as I can write right now. Next post I’ll write about a Frame , with is the output and input of the Xbee.

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TIL (Today I learned) -- XBee and SgGeek 

I’ve been asked a few times these few weeks about what I was going to do with SgGeek, and the truth is, I have NO IDEA!! SgGeek was a natural progression. It started out with finding out about IoT ( Internet of Things ) from Instructables, then getting an arduino kit, then a raspberry pi, then setting up media servers for myself, then to friends, simple coding on python, finding out about networking etc. Thereafter it moved on to Retrogaming for myself, and then for friends, and then for anyone else who wanted it.  I just went with whatever interests me and at the heart of it all, it was because I wanted to know more about tech and blinking lights haha (> __<) . So SgGeek, will always be about learning. Whatever business that spins out of it, whatever money I make from this, it wasn’t exactly intentional, but they certainly help me on my journey for knowledge. On top of it, there’s also a sense of fulfillment when I deploy some open-source project on a client’s house. Or I see that they are really happy with a project I made. Or I make new friends, they all add up. 

I was quite lucky to meet a friend/teacher recently who introduced me to Xbee. Therefore these few months, I will be learning and writing about this uber interesting device. A short introduction is, Xbee is a tiny tiny microcontroller ( about 3x3cm ) that is able to emit and receive radio signals over a long range (abt 30-90m). Sometimes you see Routers saying 802.11b or 802.11ac things like that, ya? Those are radio frequency standards. WIFI is a kind of radio wave, 802.11a is a kind of radio wave standard that is used to transfer data to through your router. Xbee is also a kind of radio emitter and receiver but they operate in the 802.15.4 standard. 

But why have a bulky router when you have this small one that can also send and receive radio waves? The trade off is bandwith for power consumption and flexibility. Xbee is extremely low powered, very small (mobile), and can be deployed easily with battries! (yes a battery operated router is possible).Technically, If you have a friend who’s 180m away from you, you’ll need 3 XBee Pros, running on batteries in btwn you 2, and you can wirelessly control anything in his house, lag-free. But the down side is bandwidth. The current iteration can transmit 100 kbit/s, which, through an online calculator, is about 12.5kbps. Your 3mb(3000kb) mp3 file transfer might take... about 4 minutes? (an eternity ... i know right?!)

As such Xbees are usually deployed for embeded devices. Often seen in home automation, eg: when owner comes near an xbee, maybe with a PIR(passive infra-red) sensor, turn a light on / play some music / start the dishwasher / burn the house etc.  

TIL : Xbees are cool and I’ll try to learn about them.

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Setting up the 2nd Router (Asus RT-AC87U) as the WIFI access point, while keeping all devices in the same network. 

Learnt quite a bit in this project. Failed quite terribly in the beginning but here’s a primer.  1)Every router has a DHCP server which gives out an internal IP address to all devices connected to it whether if it is wired or wireless.  2) This internal IP takes the form of 192.168.XXX.YYY.  3) If you want all devices to “see” each other they have to be in the same subnet. Which basically means all their internal IP should have the same number for XXX, but different number for YYY. Eg: 192.168.1.5 and 192.168.1.40 will be able to “see” each other, but will not be able to detect devices with IP 192.168.2.1. 4) When you connect 2 routers together, and they’re both serving a DHCP, it causes a conflict. And to resolve the conflict, the 2nd router will go to the next subnet. My 2nd router did just that. On the surface , all my devices seem to be connected to the internet. But when I’m installing my wireless printer through my, LAN connected PC, they can’t detect each other’s presence.  5) Always set fixed IP of 2nd router FIRST! before turning off DHCP.

I hope the tutorial below will help whoever is trying this out. 

Step 1 : Getting your network’s IP range. Login to your DDWRT webUI Panel. Under basic setup ,  the DHCP server should already have been Enabled, but just take note of the start IP. You may adjust the start IP to your liking. A number from 2 onwards would be ok. An input of 2 basically means, your DDWRT router will give out IP address from 192.168.1.2 onwards. I chose 100.

Step 2: Setting your Router Mode. go to Advanced routing and make sure you’re in “Gateway” Mode. I decided to go with Gateway instead of “router” as recommended because from observation, I could save up my 4 (precious) LAN slots from the 2nd router and connect it via the WAN connection. 

Step 3 : Find your 2nd router’s IP. There are a few ways to do this, I connected a WIFI dongle to my PC, went on to 192.168.2.1 and found my 2nd router’s WebUI. But if you have trouble finding it. I suggest switching the incoming connection from WAN to LAN (maybe reboot the router) and run advanced IPScanner from http://tinyurl.com/jtbj9uw . You will find your router’s IP that way. 

Step 4 : Setting up Access Point Mode. As a hypocrite, I supposed 1 DDWRT is good enough for the house. And once the VPN is implemented, whatever this 2nd Asus Router runs on doesn’t really matter. So I went for the easy way out.  Under “Administration” , you’ll find an “Access Point mode”. Switch to that and click “Save”. It will prompt you to either allow the main router to give a random IP to this 2nd router or, give it a fixed IP. Fixed IP is always good. I gave it 192.168.1.101 just to make it easy to find all the time.  

Step 5 : Disable DHCP on 2nd Router.  If the option comes up for your router, Always disable DHCP for 2nd router AFTER setting its Fixed IP. Reboot the router. And if you’ve switched the incoming to LAN, you can switch it to WAN. Now the main router is the only one serving DHCP and every device connected will be in the same subnet, carrying IPs of 192.168.1.100 onwards. Voila!  

Step 6 : Breathe and enjoy cat videos on internet. http://tinyurl.com/lggc9rd

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Ok now for setting up DDWRT on my D-Link 868L. I wouldn’t say its extremely difficult. But you have to be cautious. For the wiki, you could visit here. https://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/D-Link_DIR-868L

But here’s what actually happened.  

1) Connect your computer via LAN directly to D-Link router. 

2) Go to webpage http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/other-downloads?path=betas   and go to : betas › 2015 › 01-20-2015-r25974 › dlink-dir868l . Download both files.

3) Open the D-Link web-interface in your web browser (address: http://192.168.0.1), Log In, and go to Tools › Firmware 

4) Select factory-to-ddwrt.bin (which you downloaded in step 2) and click the "Upload"-button. Takes awhile to upload and flash. 

5) When it is successful, the router address will be changed to http://192.168.1.1

6) Upgrade the router (again) by using the dir-868-webflash.bin firmware.   (which you downloaded in step 2)

7) I tried to SSH into the router with putty but wasn’t successful. I went with Telnet instead. My windows 7 home version didn’t enable it by default so, I went  Start > Control Panel. Click Programs and Features. Click Turn Windows features on or off. In the Windows Features dialog box, check the Telnet Client check box. Click OK. The system installs the appropriate files. This will take a few seconds to a minute.

8) Ok now i’m ready to clear the NVRAM. click “Start” , type “cmd” enter. On command line, type  “telnet 192.168.1.1″ enter.  “erase nvram” enter “reboot” enter  your router should reboot, erasing all the unnecessary data from your nvram. This is one of the most important steps and even if you already have it working, (which is does) you SHOULD NEVER SKIP THIS STEP.

9) You may login now to check your DDWRT configs at 192.168.1.1 . username “root” password “admin”

There, we are done! set a really secure admin password after you’re done. And also set WIFI 2.4ghz and 5ghz password. I’d recommend Lastpass for all your passwords, but for the admin password, just make sure it you have it remembered or written somewhere. Lastpass is useless if you don’t have internet. 

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Getting a DD-WRT Router cheaply

Being my virgin try on flashing my own router’s firmware, I did some research. you can check out DD-WRT’s website, there’s a huge list of routers that you can flash their firmware and with ease, really. Each router has their own wiki page which explains how to do it. So here’s the checklist on how I selected my router.

1) Firmware must be on DD-WRT Website

2) Must have Gigabit LAN ports.

3) musts be under $100

4) Must be tested and proven in Singapore’s fiber environment

Number 4 is kind of just a safety step as while I was shopping in Challenger, I saw quite a few routers with stickers like “Singtel fiber supported” or “works on malaysia fiber network”. Being a little noob, I wanted to be extra sure.

But to cut the story short, I found the TP-Link Archer C2 $89  and D-Link DIR816L for $79

The only issue is, they both don’t run DD-WRT. The other TP-Link router which can be DD-WRT-ed is Archer C8 and C9 which costs around $200 - $300.

Found a D-Link 868L from carousell for $60. These are quite abundant as starhub gives them out for their Fiber broadband plans. Which means it can be used in Singapore. People want to get rid of it for some quick cash if they have a better router. So here comes me! Next part will show you how I got it done.

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A video posted by SgGeek (@sggeek) on Jun 1, 2015 at 6:02am PDT

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Choosing an ISP

Disclaimer : this is not an any advertisement nor is it aimed at trashing any ISP.

Having been a Singtel subscriber for some time. I am satisfied with the speed I’m experiencing but there are some quirks that you have to live with. Here’s the pros and cons. I’ll be comparing why I chose MyRepublic over Singtel.

Firstly, right out of the bat, Starhub and Singtel offers cable channels. So if you have to live with your cable channels. Its just between these 2 and you can skip this post. Why I chose MR is because I believe cable channels will slowly turn into streaming services. I have seen others side load android apps that stream content to their android devices. Not the best quality, but I’m not a TV buff. I’m not sure if you’re aware but alot of the famous chinese tv shows have official youtube channels that you can watch on demand. For english shows, maybe we only need Netflix? There’s also a difference between Singapore’s netflix the US. Hence the VPN service I will try later on.

Ok so Singtel is a mix of un-standardized setups yea. For my old house I had these notes:

1) ONT has to be connected to Termination point via the yellow optic fiber. That’s something we cannot change for any ISP.

2) From me and my company’s IT consultant’s experience. We cannot plug our phone lines into the ONT (although the port is there). We have to plug into the Singtel supplied router. But from some research, I see that some people  get a different setup and their ONT’s phone line port is open.

3) If I were to learn from my IT consultant, he uses the Singtel router as a bridge, and that box’s main use is to bring in internet and also connect to his land line. He got another, more reliable, router to serve WIFI in the house.

4) Singtel router contains very old firmware, could be easily hackable. WIFI is weak.

At his point of time, with the groundwork I laid with my house. I have 2 choices,

a) put the Singtel supplied router as my main router in the utility box. I can make use of loopback to plant my landline on Bedroom 2. Singtel’s router will be a bridge and I’ll buy another more expensive router in the living room to serve WIFI in the green spot. b) put the Singtel router in the green spot. and my phone has to be near it. Singtel router is serving WIFI and I’ll get another cheapo router serving as bridge (a.k.a. the main router) in the utility box.

Issue is I don’t want both of them. a) Singtel router firmware cannot be updated. If its the first gate to my house, i don’t want it to be an old broken gate. b) a cheapo router that can be flashed with DDWRT can be the first gate into my house, it will be strong with a VPN and firewall. But I’m not comfortable with a the Singtel Aztech router serving WIFI. Experience has shown that it the signal degrades very quickly even with just 1 wall in between.

Therefore I chose MR. Topped up $99(after a $200 discount) for Asus RT-AC87U. subscribed to 1Gbps plan. $49.99 a month. Pros : cheaper ; I can try out my own set up. Cons: no cable tv ; I was a bit doubtful of their service

An equivalent Singtel plan “Unlimited Fiber” plan is $50. But I’ll have to get the same router at $299. Pros: if you’re on Singtel mobile, you’ll get 10% discount; proven reliability, openNet is owned by Singtel ; choice for cable TV Cons : More expensive router ; ONT phone line issue I am unsure of what I’ll get.

Ok so this is done. Next part will be on hunting for a DDWRT router and tutorial on flashing it.

Oh ya just one last point. I’m the kind of subscriber who doesn’t really care about how many extra deals you dangle in front of me for “cheaper prices” I only look at the final price I pay and the service I need. So I acknowledge that my choice will not fit all, but this is just for your consideration in case you are the same kind of person as me and would like to save some money. =D

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Getting a good LAN coverage in the house.

I engaged GH to do the hacking of my data points for me . He’s pretty nice guy, charges $90 for converting 3 points into Data, and 1 loopback for the phoneline. I asked for 2 more and its an additional $30 each. Its probably a good time to point out that. I had no idea how this is going to turn out. Like most people, I am trying it out. But at this point of time I had some issues I wanted to solve.

1) The phone had to be outside the utility box

2) I need good WIFI coverage in the living room therefore, the main router had to be outside of the utility box, in a good location.

3) I wanted to build a NAS running FreeNAS* as backup storage and it will probably be inside the bomb shelter (affectionately labelled BS in the image). [*FreeNAS is from the open sourced BSD project that I’ve been wanting to try because of it reliability and stability.]

4) I wanted 1 VPN account for the whole family.

5) I was given really lousy routers from Singtel previously (2wire, Aztech) with firmwares that cannot be updated or tinkered with. The webUI is practically useless and most importantly, I believe that some of my raspberry pi projects cannot connect properly to the internet because of VLAN Tagging. (I cannot verify that as of this post, but I’ve had adafruit forum’s members verify that my code should work). Therefore I wanted my Main Router to be able to get flashed with DDWRT.

I subscribed to MyRepublic as my ISP (with no VLAN Tagging). Got an Asus RT-AC 87U router at a discount with the subscription.

Ok so the plan is out.

I asked GH for 2 data points in the living room -> LV , LV2 1 in the bomb shelter-> BS 1 in the Master bedroom ->MBR 1 in Bedroom 3 -> BR Phone loopback in Bedroom 2. Because I figured, if the router is in the living room position. Bedroom 2 should have the best coverage and therefore might not need LAN.  At least that’s the assumption. There’s where the landline will be. 2 points in the living room because, 1 for the WIFI Router, and 1 for a mini pc connected to the TV. I bought a UDoo NEO board  http://www.udoo.org/udoo-neo/ and wanted to try to make an Android box using that. Who knows if I eventually get Netflix, I wouldn’t want streaming to be an issue. Bomb shelter will house my NAS.

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Your home fiber connection in a nutshell.

Hi everyone for the first post, I’d like to go mainstream and document the internet problems in a regular Singaporean household. I’ve been visiting several of my friends houses. Lived in 1, for a really long time. tried 2 ISPs (now trying the 3rd) and dealt with probably 5-6 modems and routers till now. It seems none is extremely good for everything. You give some, you take some.

WIFI has also a problem recently, as no matter what the salesperson tell you, WIFI passing through any solid surface degrades. So for my new place, I’m trying to mediate that. Here’s the start of the story.

This post relates more to a Singaporean crowd and it will help give you a primer of how the internet in your house will run. Above is the utility box in your new flat. New BTO house will all have this box labelled OpenNet. That’s called the Termination point for fiber connection at your house. Accompanied by a LAN point and some wires which I don’t really know what they are. But underneath all these lies some secret surprises.

https://absolutehonesty.wordpress.com/2014/05/31/hougang-parkview-i-want-my-internet/

The post above is a really great one which shows you that, Disguised inside your regular phone points and those, empty, seemingly useless boxes are actually CAT6 cables!

So If you just use the default setup as seen in this post, and subscribe to your regular ISP. This will happen : http://singaporeseen.stomp.com.sg/got-service-or-not/sengkang-resident-answers-phone-in-utility-room-all-because-opennet-says-it-cant A brief explanation is that, the openNet Termination point, connects to the ONT(optical modem), via the yellow fiber cable. But to connect your phone for digital voice, (which most of Singapore’s ISP’s provide) you’ll need to connect your phone to the ONT also!

This isn’t exactly a Singapore problem, but if you’re in another country that is moving to digital voice, you’ll have to live with such a setup too. Personally, it looks like a design flaw to me as well as a hardware limitation. Could be better if , instead of just 1 LAN point, OpenNet could be kind enough to put another RJ11 (phone line) point in this terminal junction box.  And also instead of just 1x3pin power socket, we could do with a double. Hardware wise, the ONT is like that and nothing much we can do about it.

Ok, long enough post, my next post will be about the service I engaged to get the most out of my existing hidden cables.

(photo courtesy of vr-zone forum) 

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SgGeek is on Tumblr !

Hi Everyone! I’ve been a little pre-occupied with moving my house. Now that I finally have time, I was thinking about the format of my facebook page https://www.facebook.com/sggeek, It seems facebook is more for aggregating posts, sharing. For actual content, it might be probably easier to use a modern blog. ( Nobody like to read extremely long facebook posts ) Therefore Tumblr =D . Stay tuned for my up and coming posts on trying to solve common daily tech problems in the house.