The Problem With Shopping - The Environment (Part 2)
I stumbled upon a bit of inspiration this week. At the 2020 Oscars, the lively actress-activist Jane Fonda made a strong statement on fashion and its impact on the environment when she rewore a dress that sheād first donned for the Cannes Film Festival in 2014. She paired the dress with a red coat that sheās declared would be the last article of clothing sheāll ever buy. Why? Because she recognizes the harmful effects of fashion on climate and she wants to do something about it, starting with her own consumer habits. Sheās walking her talk.
Ms. Fondaās sentiments echo and find resonance in my own brain, even if Iām still struggling to fully manifest them in my own life: āWe donāt really need to keep shopping. We shouldnāt look to shopping for our identity.ā Especially when doing so makes such a negative and lasting impact on our environment.
Over the past few months, Iāve been thinking a lot about the impact of my own shopping habits on the environment. So it was amazing to see some of that impact actually quantified in Hasan Minajās Patriot Act episode on āThe Ugly Truth of Fast Fashion.ā In the episode, Minaj breaks down the staggering water, emissions, and waste impact of clothes purchased at fast fashion retailers such as Zara and H&M. I donāt shop at H&M, but I do occasionally shop at Zara, and Iām sure many of the statistics shared also apply to clothing purchased at my favorite non-fast fashion retailers, which include Anthropologie and Madewell. After all, non-fast fashion clothes donāt simply grow on trees in our own backyards, and they donāt evaporate into thin air once weāre done rotating them through our wardrobe.
Here are some of the statistics that stuck out to me:
In 1980, the average American bought 12 new articles of clothing per year; now it's 68 new pieces/year. And of those 68 items, half of them are worn 3x or less. (Iām not sure how I measure up on this stat - I donāt think I buy that much, but weāre often terrible estimators of our actual behavior. You can trust Iāll be keeping track this year though - so far, my count is at 13. I do think Iām pretty good at wearing things more than 3 times. My Stylebook app will eventually help me keep track of that too.)
I am so pleased to report the great closet inventory of 2020 has begun! 18 items cataloged, only somewhere around 150+ or so to go....(I hop
Viscose is made up of (on average) 33% ancient or threatened forests. 70% of the wood harvested for viscose ends up dumped after processing. Yikes! š±
In 2015, the greenhouse gases from textile production were more than the emissions of all flights and maritime shipping combined.
The average American throws away more than 80 lbs of clothes each year.
And donating clothes doesnāt seem to be a much better alternative. In June 2012, Slate reported that one Salvation Army in New York alone generates more than 18 tons of unwanted waste every three days. The clothes that arenāt trashed directly by charities are often sold by the ton to buyers in developing countries like South Africa or Kenya, where most of them end up in landfills anyway.
The cycle of fashion production, distribution, acquisition, and disposition is far from benign. Knowing this makes me want to be so much more mindful of the clothing I choose to invest in. As an almost 34-year-old, I donāt think itās realistic for me to adopt Jane Fondaās commitment to never buy another article of clothing in my lifetime. But Iād at least like to minimize and optimize what I do purchase. Can I buy clothing that is more sustainable so that itās creation is less impactful on the environment? Can I buy clothing that is higher quality so that it lasts longer, perhaps even for decades? My mom has many pieces in her closet that date back as far as the 1980s and still look good. After all, it seems if fashion does recycle one thing, itās the trends of yesteryear that always seem to come back around eventually.
Sometimes I get discouraged though that even if Iāve awoken to the reality of fashionās environmental harm and change my habits, Iām only one of billions of people on this planet. Will the changes I make even move the needle if no one else makes the same changes? We need massive, population-level behavior change if we hope to make a meaningful difference. But at the end of the day, I can only control what I do and trust in the good in that. I know there are others doing the same, even if itās not all, or even many of us yet. And thatās really okay. We have to start somewhere, and like Jane Fonda, Iām starting with myself.










