New stuff from Our Legacy, A Kind Of Guise and Fanmail available in-store and soon online!

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wallacepolsom
Aqua Utopia|海の底で記憶を紡ぐ
RMH
Claire Keane
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oozey mess
Lint Roller? I Barely Know Her
Three Goblin Art
I'd rather be in outer space 🛸
"I'm Dorothy Gale from Kansas"
Cosimo Galluzzi

Andulka
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Alisa U Zemlji Chuda
Stranger Things

Janaina Medeiros
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Discoholic 🪩
almost home
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@soehne
New stuff from Our Legacy, A Kind Of Guise and Fanmail available in-store and soon online!
teaser
Preview of our latest shooting by Daniela Trost & Benjamin Zivota, coming soon here!
bloom
an hour-long ode to the arriving spring, enjoy!
G&S Stocksale
In two weeks our annual stock sale will start and go until the 27th of February. On sale is a huge selection of clothing, outerwear, shoes, and accessories from all our brands. Of course it will be online as well.
Also we proudly present you the newest collections from Norse Projects, Our Legacy, Libertine-Libertine, S.N.S. Herning, F.T.C., A Kind Of Guise, FrenchTrotters and Bureau Tonic.
G&S Stocksale
So there will be something for everyone! Better be There!
Your GRUNDTNER & SöHNE Team
Paris FW16
Last weekend was again time for the biannual class reunion called Paris Fashion Week. As every season, it is fascinating to see all the new collections and enchanting to meet the people behind each brand.
Our staple brands such as Norse Projects, Our Legacy, A Kind Of Guise and S.N.S. Herning are again strong for this coming fall providing quality for every man’s wardrobe.
Interesting is also the next collection from our newest addition Armoire Officielle, whose classic designs and high end finish are not easy to compete. The brand’s Spring Summer collection will be on display shortly.
Next to the showrooms and fairs, it is also nice to just stroll through the city, enjoy its amazing selection of stores and the slightly dirty, but very welcoming neighborhood cafés.
As every season we try to watch also a few shows to soak up some fashion air. This time we were lucky to see the Études Studio show and the first Lanvin show without Alber Elbaz.
A lot of things seen and experienced so you better keep your eyes open, as there will be some major updates for our five year anniversary this September.
merci beaucoup
i just called to say thank you... a selection of recent favorites, enjoy and happy 2016!
Door 24: Nothing
After stealing your dear time with 23 entries, it is now finally time to enjoy Christmas. As every year, we do not hide anything behind our last door to give you time for your family and beloved. We dearly hope you enjoyed this year’s calendar and want to thank you for all the support given in 2015.
Have a great Christmas and relaxing holidays!
Your, GRUNDTNER & SöHNE
Door 23: Glenn Gould
Last year our Christmas calendar opened the door for Classical music, in its broadest sense, with the director Claus Guth. Our intention was to continue this year and we therefore chose one of the most famous, but also most eccentric pianists of the 20th century: Glenn Gould.
Although he passed away more than 30 years ago, his interpretations are still in high demand and often used in movies, for example in Hannibal or Steve McQueen’s Shame, for their inimitable mood. He was born in 1932 in Toronto and showed soon a musical talent, especially for the piano. This talent was intensively fostered by his parents. After attending The Royal Conservatory of Music from the age of 10, he graduated two years later and therefore achieved the status of a professional pianist.
Since 1945 he performed live, but reached world-wide fame for his 1955 recording of Johann Sebastian Bach’s Goldberg Variations. Despite being in demand, his eccentricities began to increase and he stopped performing live at the age of 31 in 1964 and focused more on recording and broadcasting.
Next to always using his own chair, which his father customized for him after an accident at the age of 11, he was a hypochondriac. His use of various pills, prescribed or not, has had an enormously negative impact on his health. Concerning his piano play, his recordings are normally easy to recognize as he hums along with the music or stomps an additional beat.
But also his interpretations can be seen as eccentric, as he tended to bring his own visions to each piece. Often playing different tempi, volume or dynamic as suggested. Doing so he gave a lot of well-known pieces a new touch. In his choices he tended to neglect the standard Romantic piano literature from composers such as Liszt, Schumann or Chopin and rather focused next to the aforementioned Bach on the Classic, pre-Baroque or 20th century composers.
He also composed, but was not as keen and as successful as he was as an interpret. His private life was as mysterious as his persona. Only known is his affair with Cornelia Foss, the wife of his friend and also musician Lukas Foss. Glenn Gould died in 1982 shortly after his 50th birthday. Polarizing as he was, one cannot the deny his significance in the world of classical music in the 20th century and his impact still measurable today.
Door 22: Martin Kippenberger
Each generation has a certain image, how an artist should be or behave. So it is always interesting to see, when someone does not stick to such cultural norms. An artist, who loved this dynamic and intentionally played with it, is the German artist Martin Kippenberger.
These controversies tended to shift the focus more on his persona then on his work during his life-time. But it paved the way for a lot of younger artists, like the the Young British Artists or Maurizio Cattelan, who saw a certain liberation from norms in his attitude. Not only through his personal behavior but also his multi-dimensional approach as he was not sticking to a single medium and worked in multiple fields.
Martin Kippenberger was born in 1953 in Dortmund as the only boy between two older and two younger sisters. Despite being a keen kid, he did not excel at school and did not finish any school nor his apprenticeship. After the tragic and sudden death of his mother, he inherited enough money to live off of it. He enrolled at Hochschule für Bildende Kunst in Hamburg. There he was influenced by Sigmar Polke, although he was not in his class.
He had his first solo show in 1977 in Florence, but soon after he stopped painting at the “zenith” of his career as he later explained. In 1978 he moved to Berlin, and inspired by Warhol’s factory opened the Kippenbergers Büro together with Gisela Capitain. This office was used to promote his own art but also of his friends. He managed the legendary club SO36 in Kreuzberg and started to make music.
After leaving Berlin in 1981 he moved around in Europe throughout the 80s. His initial plan was to go to Paris, but he settled down in Cologne for a longer period, thereby giving the city’s art scene a new momentum and making it known outside of its borders. During his later years he taught at the Städelschule in Frankfurt and at the Kassel Art Academy. Martin Kippenberger died in 1997 at the age of 44 because of liver cancer.
As shortly mentioned above his permanent self promotion and his excessive life-style made him a tabloid topic and often distracted from his output. He worked as a painter, sculptor and photographer, but also took care of exhibition posters and catalogs, being aware of their impact.
Interesting to observe is that he seemed to take creative energy from the controversies caused. A famous example therefore is his sculpture Martin, ab in die Ecke und schäm Dich (Martin, into the Corner, You Should Be Ashamed of Yourself), which is a reaction after being accused of neo-Nazi attitudes.
Door 21: Gang Starr
Over last two years our calendar apparently neglected Hip Hop and Rap, so what better way to change that then with one of the most influential Hip Hop duos of all time. We are speaking of Guru and DJ Premier, together known as Gang Starr.
They shaped and influenced the Hip Hop in New York and are directly associated with its scene. Interesting here is that both are originally not from New York, Guru is originally from Boston and DJ Premier is from Houston respectively. Both have and had successful and highly influential solo careers, but their collaboration is in a league of its own.
The Gang Starr project was founded in 1985 by Guru together with DJ 1, 2 B-Down and they worked with producers such as Donald D, J.V. Johnson, DJ Mark the 45 King. Until 1987 the group released three Eps but split in 1989 with only Guru willing to continue. After receiving a beat tape from DJ Premier, he asked him to join the group and in the same year they released the single Words I Manifest and their first album No More Mr. Nice Guy.
Together their sound drifted more and more away from their rather popular style and they developed their signature sound. This comprised Guru’s politically charged lyrics and unique voice paired with the impeccable beats by Primo. Each time they produced an album Guru gave Premier a tracklist and he produced the beats specifically for each track.
Together they produced until 2003 six studio albums, never compromising their vision of Hip Hop. Unfortunately Guru passed away in 2010 and his co-worker Solar issued a controversy, as Premier should not be linked to anything related to Guru. Despite this negative aftertaste, their oeuvre sounds today as fresh and timeless as ever.
Door 20: Untitled Prints
It is already time for our last special this season and we are proud to present you two exclusive prints by Daniela Trost and Benjamin Zivota, who are no strangers to this blog. Special about the prints is that Untitled I (Chair) was part of our first lookbook and Unitled II (still-life) is an exclusive shot, so it is on the one hand a look back and another into the future.
Both are limited and are made in editions of three. The print Unitled I meeasures 20,5 x 15,5cm, whereas Untitled II measures 20 x 14,5cm. Both are now available in our webstore.
Door 19: Steve McQueen
The name McQueen rings a bell, as there is the fashion designer Alexander McQueen and the famous actor Steve McQueen, but we are not talking about neither, but the namesake director. He made a name for himself in recent years through his three feature films, but is active since the early nineties.
He was born in 1969 in London to Grenadian parents and grew up in Ealing. At school he was good at sports, especially football, but had later on troubles at school. Reasons therefore are, as McQueen describes, him being dyslexic including a lazy eye on the one side, but also institutional racism on the other as he was placed in a class for manual labour, more plumbers and builders, stuff like that.
According to him what saved him, was the fact that he was good at drawing, so he got into arts and took his A-levels there. After a few college attempts, he got into Chelsea College of Arts due to his strong portfolio. After his graduation he continued and studied at Goldsmiths College, catching the end of the Young British Artists era with artists like Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin. Here his interest for film began. Since 1997 he has a house in Amsterdam and lives there with his wife Bianca Stigter, a Dutch film critic, and their two kids, a girl and a boy.
As money was a scarce resource McQueen started his career by making short films, in which he often starred himself. Important here to mention is for example his first short film Bear from 1993, in which two men, one of them McQueen, are filmed in black and white while wrestling. Other short films are Five Easy Pieces (1995), Drummroll (1998) or Deadpan (1999) for which he was awarded the Turner Prize in the same year.
Through this initial limitation he also showed the films often as installations in gallery spaces using often multiple screens and therefore helped position film as an art form. He represented Great Britain at the Venice Biennale in 2009. But his intention was always to also make feature films, so in 2008 he presented to critical acclaim his first feature Hunger about the 1981 hunger strike in an Irish prison surrounding inmate Bobby Sands.
His second film Shame, released in 2011, is about sex addiction and its accompanying captivity, but also loneliness and solitude in a big city. He is also the first black director to win an Oscar for his latest feature film 12 years a slave. The film is based on the autobiographic story of Solomon Northup, who was as a free black man, kidnapped and forced into slavery, but could only escape twelve years later.
Interesting to see that all his feature film starred the actor Michael Fassbender but also that he deals with similar subjects such as confinement or physicality, but tries to highlight it from different angles.
Door 18: Michael Anastassiades
Many famous designers work in multiple fields. Their work reaches from furniture to stable- or even table-ware and often they excel in every aspect. So it is interesting to see a designer focus on a single field, thereby exploring more of its facets. In everyday life lighting is often seen as given or in some cases even ignored, but its impact is strong and it is interesting so see a designer mainly focus on lighting.
A designer, who does so, is the Cypriot Michael Anastassiades, born in 1967. As a teenager, he worked as an assistant in an artists' studios near Nicosia and came in 1988 to London to study. He first studied civil engineering at Imperial College before going to the Royal College of Art for a master’s degree in design. Out of pure necessity of having a job, he founded his design studio in London in 1994.
This approach is from the begging reflected in his designs as he says he has designed many pieces purely out of need, things he could not find for his own home. His designs got known as one-off and limited-edition lights, for example working with architects like David Chipperfield and John Pawson or fashion designer Hussein Chalayan. These pieces reflect his multiple studies as he balances between industrial design, sculpture and decorative art.
His style is characterized by understatement, the use of high quality material combined with highest quality craftsmanship. He summarizes his approach towards design: My work springs from an idea of subtraction. Because a naked object brought back to its bare essentiality is the ultimate, definitive expression of beauty. Thereby his lamps as mentioned above are like sculpture or objects, who look as as good switched off as they do on.
He did not start to produce industrial manufactured products until he partnered with the Italian lamp company flos. He got introduced via mutual acquaintances to the company’s CEO Piero Gandini in 2011. Together they introduced two lines, IC lights and string lights in 2013. These two lines are exemplary for Anastassiades’ work. The first one, which features a glass globe on steel is inspired by the balance achieved contact juggler seen on a YouTube video.
The second line, string lights, features an adjustable cable system, which solves the power problem elegant and graphical. He therefore was inspired by electricity cables running between pylons as seen from a train window. The collaboration got extended in 2015 with new products, which take the initial approach further.
Door 17: Jeff Wall
Looking back, all the featured photographers in our calendar had their roots in fashion photography or were at least linked to it. So it is time for a change and who is better to start with, than an artist who played a key role in establishing photography as a contemporary art form: Jeff Wall
Jeff Wall was born in 1946 in Vancouver, Canada and studied art history there at the University of British Columbia from 1964 until 1970. After finishing his masters degree, he moved in 1970 with his English wife Jeannete to London to undertake postgraduate studies at the Courtauld Institute of Art. After graduating in 1973 he then taught at Nova Scotia College of Art and Design, then at the Simon Fraser University, both in Canada, but also at the European Graduate School.
His first series of photographs entitled Landscape Manual, which were published in a small brochure in 1969, were photos of Vancouver in black and white taken from the window of a car. Interesting thereby is that he officially stopped making art in 1970 and his official catalogue continued or started in 1978 with pictures like the infamous The Destroyed Room. He explains the 10 year span as his personal quest for a medium and tool he felt comfortable with. It took him ten years to accept and see photography as his medium to contribute to the contemporary art.
In this field he is known for his innovative mise-en-scènes. They look like snapshots, but are completely staged, often reenactments of situations, witnessed or imagined, but where he did not have the chance to take a photo. As he puts it in an interview, any moment, for example a moment like now, has in itself the potential to become a work of art.Thereby he is inspired by other art works of artists like Manet or Hokusai but also writers like Yukio Mishima or Franz Kafka. Speaking of his troubles in finding his way into the art world he said: So the art of the past has helped me a lot to find my way in the contemporary world.
Jeff Wall is famous for putting these images on large transparencies mounted on light boxes. Large billboards inspired him to do so and gave his work at the same time a sculptural and cinematic scale. These large-scale photographs of everyday scenes involving people made him famous, but in the early 1990s he became more and more interested in still-lifes.
This shows his artistic versatility within the world of photography as he is not only dedicated to a single subject nor a single form of photography. This is highlighted in the fact that he sees himself as a photographer, not a conceptual artist. In the contemporary art scene he is considered as influential as the Bernd and Hilda Becher students such as Andreas Gursky, Thomas Struth or Candida Höfer. Andreas Gursky even cited Jeff Wall as a great model for me.
Door 16: Nick Drake
In recent years the name Drake became more and more associated with popular Hip Hop and R&B, addressing money, wealth, women, or being better than others. By far not so popular during his lifetime and having more refined subjects was the British singer-songwriter Nick Drake.
He was born in 1948 in Burma to British parents as his father Rodney Drake worked for the Bombay Burma Trading Corporation. Two years later, the family, which also included Nick’s elder sister Gabrielle, moved back to England and settled in the small town Tanworth-in-Arden in Warwickshire. During his school education at a boarding school in Berkshire and at Marlborough College he was good at sports, but it seemed not to matter to him. At Marlborough College he got more into music, playing the piano at the orchestra and learning to play the clarinet and the saxophone.
Despite having a scholarship to study English literature in Cambridge, he traveled through France and Morocco and shortly lived with his sister in London before enrolling at university. During his time there his focus was less on studying but rather on making music. His soft voice and skilled guitar play got spotted and he was presented to the infamous Joe Boyd of the Witchseason production company.
He gave him a contract and produced the first album Five Leaves Left in 1969. Although it got good reviews, the sales were meager. His second album Bryter Layter, which was the most commercial during his lifetime but far from successful, was also produced by Boyd. His final album Pink Moon a year later, was completely produced by himself with no orchestration and only the help of technician John Wood. Nick Drake was media shy and had issues performing on stage, so he nearly got no press coverage during his lifetime and went completely beneath the radar outside of Britain.
After his third album his personal isolation and elusiveness grew. He got more and more lost, was for a short period interned at a mental hospital and got prescribed anti-depressants. During this time he also moved back to his parent’s place in Tanworth-in-Arden. In a seemingly positive phase, he died at the age of 26 from an overdose of anti-depressants in his childhood room. Until today it is not clear if it was suicide or not.
As so often with artists, Nick’s impact, influence and success only came long after his death. Posthumously the importance and relevance of Nick Drake are apparent and indisputable. Rumor has it that the Cure has taken its name from the song Time has told me, where the lyrics are: a troubled cure for a troubled mind.
A broader audience got introduced to him a little bit later as the title song of his last album Pink Moon was used in a VW commercial in 1999. Also his songs are favorites of a lot of directors and appeared in soundtracks of films like The Royal Tenenbaums, Serendipity, and Garden State.
Door 15: Leather Belts
Our quest for exclusive products continues. For our third special this year, we proudly introduce Mila Petrova. Originally from Bulgaria, she now lives in Vienna, where she studies at the University of Applied Arts initially under Bernhard Willhelm and now under Hussein Chalayan.
For our Christmas calendar she made two, very different leather belts. On the basis both are made of high quality genuine python leather, one is natural and the other is black colored.
The first one is a double waistband belt with a trouser closure and belt loopholes. The second version is slightly more experimental and features a carabiner closure. Both measure 90cm and are 3cm wide.
Mila’s exclusive belts are now available online and in our store in Hallein.
Door 14: Yorgos Lanthimos
Directors of films and theatre have a recognizable language, which makes them stand out compared to others. Speaking of cinema, the contemporaries such as Woody Allen or Wes Anderson come to mind, but there are also classic cinematographers such as Federico Fellini or Stanley Kubrick. Relatively new, but with a strong visual and aesthetic language is the director Yorgos Lanthimos, who elegantly blurs the lines between art and cinema.
With such a name, there is no doubt that he is from Greece and was born in Athens in 1974. He studied there at the Hellenic Cinema and Television School Stavrakos and worked through the 90s for various dance-theatre companies. He also directed a lot of TV commercials, but also short films, music videos and experimental theatre plays.
This inspired and helped him to make movies: I learned about making films by going into advertising, making commercials, I learned about it by watching films. Even today I'm not sure why I make films or what makes me want films. I think it's other people's films. Whenever I see a really great film, I think, 'I want to make a film like that.' And then I never do.
He started in 2001 by co-directing together with Lakis Lazopoulos a rather commercial film called My Best Friend. His feature film debut was the drama Kinetta, which already showed his love for weird stories, awkward situations and staccato dialogues. International interest came with his third feature film Dogtooth which won the category Un Certain Regard in Cannes 2009. The film is about a family, where the three kids are forced to stay home.
Also to critical acclaim he presented Alps in 2011, which is about a nurse offering replacement for recently deceased. This also shows his fondness for testing the boundaries, in this case nearly being morbid. This year his first film in English was presented at the Filmfestival in Cannes, where he won the Jury Prize.
For all his personal feature films he worked together with the Greek writer Efthymis Filippou. Explaining his latest film The Lobster he said about the collaboration: We wanted to do something about a relationship and couples and the way people view them, it wasn’t one particular thing that inspired us.Yorgos sees this collaboration as an ongoing dialogue, where themes and subjects evolve and then are turned into films.