Long, winding...river
Have you ever hiked alone?
If you just thought “Noooo” in a Why would anyone do that?! tone, you may want to stop reading. But you probably wouldn’t be reading this blog anyway.
If you have hiked alone, you’ll know the same half free, half scary (with a pinch of adrenaline rush thrown in) combination I know. If you’ve done a miles-long solo hike through a cold river in a slot canyon, then I’m guessing you’ve hiked the Narrows trail in Zion National Park too! (If you did this somewhere other than Zion, please tell me where—definitely want to check that out.)
The Narrows is a hiking trail. But it’s also the Virgin River, which flows through canyon walls in Utah. So, yes, you’re literally hiking in water ranging from ankle-deep to hip-deep. Did I mention the risk of flash floods that could raise the water level several dozen feet in a matter of minutes? Queue the half scary part. Especially once you learn storms can create flash floods miles upriver—meaning a blue sky overhead and no warning whatsoever. I picture that massive wave hitting New York in “The Day After Tomorrow”. Talk about the stuff of nightmares.
But instead of saying NOPE, I decided to buy myself a pair of Chacos and get my wading game on. Let me give you the benefit of my experience with a few tips for on this (or a similar) solo hike.
Tip #1: The walking sticks aren’t just for the elderly.
When I heard recommendations for walking sticks on this hike, I think I made a mental sound along the lines of “pah”. I don’t need to spend money on that! I have good balance, I do yoga, etc., etc.
Don’t be like me. Get a walking stick. If you don’t have one, you’ll be like I was, constantly stumbling and slipping over underwater rocks you can’t see. It’s not like you have someone hiking with you to lean on. Plus, you’ll spend way too much time looking down, trying in vain to see your feet, rather than taking in the beauty of your surroundings.
I do have good balance though. Despite all my slipping and sliding, I never once fell. So my camera stayed dry.
Tip #2: Start early.
Did I mention I had an all-nighter in Vegas the night before? Once I got my act together with the proper amount of caffeine, went through the tedious rental car process at the Vegas airport, and drove the two-ish hours to Zion, I was (finally) ready to hike. It was 2 p.m.
I’m not a newb, I knew this wasn’t ideal. But I also knew this was my only chance for a Zion hike, as I had to be in Page, Az. the next day for a tour of Antelope Canyon.
It’s not always a bad thing to start a hike later in the day, especially if you just want to do a short one. In this case, it might actually be better because the Virgin River water is chilly and feels damn good at the hottest part of the day. There are also fewer hikers at this time, so there’s a smaller crowd.
But I wanted to make it to the Wall Street section—where the slot canyon narrows to only about 20 feet across—which is about three miles from the start of the bottom-up trail. And you have to hike out the way you came, there’s no loop option. And since us brave folk are traveling alone, it’s probably not a good idea to be in a river, after dark, with no one but local animals for company.
I ended up with about eight miles under my belt, finishing around 8 p.m. I was starving and wiped out. Start a little earlier than I did.
Tip #3: Get good footwear—and break them in.
I actually followed my own advice (mostly). Chaco sandals were a good choice for this hike since your feet are almost constantly submerged. However, sandals have a downside—your feet slide around when they’re wet. This causes already unsteady footing to become a bigger problem. I tightened up the straps and got through it.
But. I bought those sandals just a week before my trip. Meaning? I didn’t have time to break them in properly. So I ended up with some blisters where the new (and tightened) nylon straps cut into my poor toes (toes get such harsh treatment...and they work so hard!). Needless to say, I walked barefoot back to the parking lot. No one around to carry me after all!
Tip #4: Be ready to take stunning pictures.
If you’re confident enough in your stability while walking across underwater stones you can’t see, then definitely have your camera out and ready to capture the gorgeous, constantly-changing scenery.
The sun’s movement, the difference in water height, the ever-changing canyon walls—it all means the views keep changing as you hike. The next postcard-perfect picture is just around the riverbend.
It’s easy to make sure you can get a few pictures with you in them—all you have to do is ask! People are (generally) nice enough to humor you, especially if you offer to take a snap of them in return. If you’re not in the mood to converse, or plan to hike far enough there won’t be people surrounding you, pack a small tripod.
Tip #5: Look around.
Some of my tips might imply I didn’t enjoy myself or find the experience spectacular. You’re wrong, I totally did. The beauty is simply jaw-dropping and worth any trouble it takes to see, including my mistakes in preparation.
Remember to take camera breaks—see stuff with your eyes, not your camera lens. Watch the river flowing. Witness the hikers around you laughing and slipping. See the sunlight and shadows change as the miles go by.
Staying balanced during this hike is a challenge. You’ll be tempted to stare at your feet as you hike to watch your footing. Just don’t, you won’t be able to see through the water once it’s more than a few inches deep anyway. Use your walking stick and keep your eyes skyward.









