Southern Vietnam: Ho Chi Minh, Mui Ne, Hue, and Hoi An 3.11.13
Soo much to say and not enough time or energy to say it, so I'll just talk about the best parts.
Days 1-4 were relatively laid-back and not so newsworthy except for the War Remnants museum and the accolades I have to give Saigon (HCMC). Saigon is visually exquisite. Heavily wooded, sculpture parks, French Colonial architecture, whirring motorbikes, rooftop cafes, wafting incense, etc., etc. The South of Vietnam, being impressed by almost 150 of French colonialism, is the first place I've visited in Southeast Asia that so heavily laden with Catholic Churches. I had never considered the impact of religious denomination on the atmosphere of a city, and I was surprised by the great influence it had on my perception of it- seeing a steeple in the place of a pagoda had quasi-confusing effect. Walking down the same streets as described in Graham Greene's The Quiet American, it was evident just how easy it must have been for European and American correspondents to get adjusted to the lifestyle regardless of the terror that lay in wait beyond the city limits. The Rue Catinat, which has since the end of the French occupation been renamed, is lined with an Opera house, gorgeous cathedral, massive parks, and old-world hotels. It is blissful and serene while still maintaining the sense of the constant flux signaled by the traffic and the horn-happy motorists.
I mentioned the terror outside the bounds of the city, and no full account could be given without delving, at least a little bit, into the history of Vietnam, even before the war Americans have come to know. (Sorry, skip this paragraph if you don't want to hear anything remotely unpatriotic or don't care about history.) The land which we know today as Vietnam was under Chinese rule from the 2nd until the 10th centuries AD (or CE if you want to get PC. Acronyms!). From the 10th century until the 19th century there were a series of civil wars- Vietnam being home to 54 ethnic groups!- as well as vain attempts by China to regain their former position. Somewhere in that time, the Ming Dynasty of China fell (17th cent.), and Ming loyalists moved to Vietnam. To this day their descendants still use Chinese temples in Vietnam as meeting houses to plot vengeance on the losses of their ancestors in the name of the reclamation of their bygone dynasty. 400 odd years seems like a long time to hold a grudge, but you can probably chalk that up to the fact that I am a national of a country younger than this grievance itself. Anyway, the French colonized Vietnam in 1802 and continued to colonize them until 1945- hence the Vietnamese use of the Latin Alphabet and the Virgin Marys and the Rue Pasteur in HCMC. Of couse, as you know, WWII ended in this year, 1945, and, honestly, between 1945 and 1954 I get really confused, but in 1954 at the Geneva Conference, Vietnam is divided at the 17th Parallel between the Communist North and the Royal family in the South. As an aside, this is also the place where Korea is divided between Soviet-friendly North and America-friendly South along the 38th Parallel. Ok, sorry, getting boring- so, why does the US get involved in the Vietnam War, or, as it's called here, the American War? Excellent question! I sincerely wish to tell you that my week here so far has enlightened me as to the true purpose of 'our' (I put this in quotes because, as we do know, the people of the US weren't exactly in cahoots with Washington on this one.) occupation/slaughter, but regrettably, I cannot. I think the answer is somewhere between the Red Scare, tin/steel resources, and weapons testing. If you've ever wanted to feel a lack of patriotism/borderline disgust with your home country, just visit the Vietnam War Remnants museum.
'Nightmarish' would most aptly describe the images in the museum. That doesn't apply merely to wartime images; in fact, it mostly applies to the images that have documented the effects of Agent Orange or Dioxin in both Vietnamese and American troops and insurgents. The effects of Dioxin are not limited solely to those exposed- they last for up to three generations after initial exposure. Grandchildren of those who served in the war or were exposed as civilians will continue to bear the burden of the atrocities bestowed upon them by the American presence in Vietnam. It is estimated that up to 4 million people face health consequences and terrifying birth defects either directly or indirectly as a result of the use of Agent Orange. Exposed Americans have been paid restitution by the government, but those in Vietnam have been left destitute. Appeals to the Supreme Court for indemnity to be paid by the producers of dioxin during the war (Monsanto and others) have been denied. These are appeals that have all come to light within the last 10 years and will, given the long-term consequences of dioxin, persist for decades to come, whether or not the US government chooses to acknowledge them. I don't think I need to continue on to point out my level of antipathy towards my home country after visiting this museum, regardless of party considerations.
War-ravaged as Vietnam is, Bill Clinton's lift on the trade embargo here in 1994 hugely revolutionized the economy throughout the country. Also, as disastrous and barbaric as the US was during the war, many Vietnamese consider good relations with America as a way to avoid having to do business with China, which is, in their books, an excellent thing. The brighter side of this is that, contrary to what I assumed and what most Americans probably assume, Vietnamese people do not loathe Americans- quite the opposite, especially in the case of Mr. Clinton. Thanks, Bill!
The central coastal cities of Hue and Hoi An were our next stops on the tour. Our tour guide, Jan, bearer of an unsightly hairy neck mole (mom and I just couldn't look away), but nevertheless an absolutely wonderful, knowledgeable, fun, and insightful tour guide led us through these two historic cities. His passion and enthusiasm were infectious, and his catch phrases such as, "Here's a kodak moment/wonderful photo opportunity," "take some time for smelling the roses," and a largely displaced "nevermind/ never you mind" propelled us on our whirlwind tours. I'll put a picture of him at the bottom of this post. Hue is the former capital and home of the royal family. The imperial city was located here during the French occupation. What wasn't bombed during the war remains as a beautiful testament to the rulers who lived there.
Hoi An is a small town about three hours south of Hue. This is the place where Vietnam's preeminence in overnight suit-making and tailoring originated. The mother, skeptical as always, was initially weary of these tireless clothiers, but, predictably, was swayed until her purchases exceeded mine and left her wanting more. When we first got there, the ladies keep harassing me saying, "We look after you," which I stupidly interpreted as, "We look up to you," to which I replied, "Yea, I know, I'm really tall." Classic Natalie move. Seriously though, if you have the chance to visit Vietnam, get yourself a whole wardrobe made. It's inexpensive, quality, and fits like a beaut. In the words of Jan, "You wouldn't believe it/unbelievable/just amazing".
Yesterday, we took a cooking course with a hilarious chef who told us to roll our spring rolls like joints, complimented my said rolling, and asked my mom if he could move in with me to cook for me. Yes, flattery goes a long way. Now Al and I are off to Hanoi and Halong Bay for the final leg of our trip. I don't want to even think about the fact that it's close to over, so I'll go because this post was really long, but here's Jan and I. Excuse my face as this was taken at 6:30 AM.
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