Celebrating America and one of its favorite summer treats
(Copyright 2008 Robert Rose Inc.)
A big celebration is around the corner. It is the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, so this year, July 4 is extra special.
Celebrations, festivals, parades, and fireworks are being planned to honor the countryâs founding and those who helped shape the United Statesâ history. Adding to these festivities, in July we will celebrate National Ice Cream Month, paying homage to one of Americaâs favorite summer treats.
In 1984, President Ronald Regan designated July as the month to celebrate the beloved, frozen treat.
I remember, as a child, those sweltering days, when the Good Humor man rang his bell on the bicycle-powered cart, and I would run outside at 3 p.m. (his usual time of arrival) to buy a chocolate eclair on a stick, or an ice cream sandwich.
Money was already in hand for his arrival. When I heard the Mr. Softee jingle, I ran to get some money from my parents, and then waited in line to get my favorite, chocolate and vanilla swirl. Itâs been intriguing to watch the food truck business evolve over the decades.
Across the regions that experience cold winters, the ice cream stands, which were dormant, have begun coming back to life, with the âSee you in the springâ signs coming down. One of my usual stops recently opened for the season, and I already enjoyed my first scoop of coconut-pineapple ice cream.
When it comes to flavors, vanilla is the most popular, followed by chocolate, then strawberry. Ice cream flavors are limited only by imagination. Manufacturers, chefs, ice cream shops, and home cooks are always coming up with new combinations full of personality.
Itâs as if their creations are saying, âCan you top this?â I checked out ice cream flavor menus, and came across some creative ones:Â miso with honey-roasted strawberries, Earl Grey lavender, Kit Kat, lemon ginger snap, lemon ricotta blueberry, caramel popcorn, plus everything bagel.
There are some flavors that I will leave to those who really like to experiment: foie gras, honey jalapeno pickle, and coffee garlic herb almond chip (yes, really).
There are those who enjoy making ice cream at home, whether it be a no-churn style or using an ice cream machine. Just the other day, I was organizing the shed and dusted off my ice cream maker. It prompted me to pick a few recipes to prepare from âThe Ice Cream Bibleâ by Marilyn Linton and Tanya Linton (2008, Robert Rose Inc. $24.95).
The introduction includes the history of ice cream, types of ice cream makers and other equipment, various frozen treats, ingredients, hygiene, and food safety, plus storage details. The troubleshooting section is most helpful. The recipes include tips, serving suggestions, and variations.
âThe smaller batches produced in home ice cream makers get your creative juices flowing by inviting frequent experimentation,â the authors write.
The categories of treats run the gamut, from chocolatey, fruity, nutty, beverage-inspired, as well as sweet and savory ice creams to gelatos, ices, sorbets, and granitas to kidsâ favorites, low-fat ice milks, yogurts, and non-dairy desserts. And, letâs not forget those must-have toppings that are included, too.
âIn trying everything from Apple Betty ice cream to Beet Apple Slush, we found â as weâre sure you will â that inventing new flavor combinations is half the fun.â
Here are a few recipes from the book.
Honey, Lemon and Thyme Ice Cream
The headnote says: âSteeping thyme in the cream mixture brings out the subtle taste of this favorite summer herb.â
Ingredients:
2 cups whipping (35%) cream
1 cup milk
3â4 cup fresh thyme sprigs
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 eggs
1â4 cup granulated sugar
1â2 cup liquid honey
Directions:
In a medium saucepan, bring cream, milk, thyme and lemon zest to a boil. Remove from heat, cover and let steep at room temperature for 1 œ hours. Remove thyme sprigs. Reheat over medium heat until steaming.
In a bowl, whisk eggs with sugar until thickened and pale yellow. Stir in honey. Gradually whisk in cream mixture.
Return entire mixture to the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Be careful not to let it boil. Strain into a clean large bowl.
Let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until completely cold or overnight.
Stir cream mixture. Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturerâs instructions. When serving, garnish ice cream with fresh thyme leaves.
Tip: Experiment with different kinds of thyme â each variety brings its own flavor.
Raspberry Buttermilk Ice Cream
The headnote says: âDespite its name, buttermilk is lower in fat than cream or even whole milk. But the incredible creamy taste of this frozen concoction will have you trying buttermilk with other partners, such as strawberries or peaches. Just substitute the same amount of your favorite fresh fruit for the amount of berries called for here. Strain raspberries through a sieve just before freezing if you want to eliminate the seeds.â
Ingredients:
1 cup fresh raspberries, or frozen, drained of syrup
1 cup buttermilk
3â4 cup Simple Syrup (see recipe below)
1 large ripe banana, sliced
Directions:
In a food processor or blender, puree raspberries, buttermilk, syrup and banana until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until completely cold or overnight. Stir fruit mixture. Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturerâs instructions.
Simple Syrup
The headnote says: âThis recipe is the basis of many of the frozen desserts in this book. Itâs easy to make, and you can cover and keep it in the refrigerator for up to three months. We also use it to sweeten iced tea, limeade and lemonade. For a less sweet version, decrease the sugar to 1 cup. Double the recipe to make a larger quantity if you plan to make lots of ice cream or ices in the next couple of months. The reduced sugar version will produce a firmer texture when added to ices and sorbets and then frozen. Recipes made with this version are best served right away, softened slightly before scooping or scraped into a shaved granita-style dessert.â
Ingredients:
2 cups granulated sugar
2 cups water
Directions:
In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat bring sugar and water to a simmer. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until sugar is completely dissolved. Simmer, without stirring for 2 minutes more. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until cold.
Chocolate Chip Coffee Gelato
The headnote says: âThis gelato pleases both the coffee lover and the chocoholic. If youâre really addicted to coffee, double the coffee granules for a real kick.â
Ingredients:
2 cups milk, divided
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1â3 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 œ tablespoons instant coffee granules
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate finely chopped, divided
Directions:
In a small bowl, whisk œ cup milk with cornstarch until smooth. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, whisk together remaining milk, sugar and cocoa powder. Bring to a simmer, stirring often. Whisk in coffee granules. Whisk the cornstarch mixture to recombine.
Gradually whisk into sugar mixture. Return to a boil, stirring often. Strain into a clean large bowl. Let cool to room temperature.
Stir in vanilla and half of the chocolate. Cover and refrigerate until completely cold or overnight.
Stir milk mixture. Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturerâs instructions. Add remaining chocolate during last 5 minutes of freezing and let machine stir it in.
Serving suggestion: Sprinkle 2 teaspoons sliced almonds, chopped hazelnuts or chopped pecans over each serving.
Tomato Basil Ice
The headnote says: âThis ice is a welcome first course during a heat wave. Serve it on its own or dollop it in chilled corn or cucumber soup. For the best flavor, wait until tomatoes are at their ripest.â
Ingredients:
5 large ripe tomatoes 5 (about 3 pounds)
1â2 cup tomato juice
1â4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves (see tip below)
1â4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Peel, core and seed tomatoes. Chop.
In a food processor or blender, puree tomatoes, tomato juice, basil, lemon juice, tomato paste and oil until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until completely cold or overnight.
Stir tomato mixture. Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturerâs instructions.
Tip: When using herbs, make sure they have not been treated with pesticides. Treat herbs to a light wash in soapy water and rinse very well.
Courtesy of âThe Ice Cream Bibleâ by Marilyn Linton and Tanya Linton, 2008, https://robertrosebooks.com/us. Reprinted with permission. Available where books are sold. Cover and text design copyright 2008, Robert Rose Inc.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of âWorth Tasting,â a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.













