The fashion industry was never built to cater to women’s bodies. But there’s a simple solution: Just make it, toots.
For a moment recently, it seemed that big brands and box stores were finally deigning to cater to women like me. The zeitgeist had evolved past the heroin-chic trend of the 1990s and the low-rise jeans of the 2000s. “Body positivity” became a buzzword. In 2018, Loft and Madewell introduced plus sizes to their offerings, and in 2021, Old Navy introduced a “Bodequality” campaign to stock sizes 0 through 28 in stores. Ralph Lauren trumpeted its hiring of a size 12 model (just a few years after getting in trouble for Photoshopping a model into impossible thinness), and Sports Illustrated, to great fanfare, started routinely including curvier women in its annual swimsuit issue. Celebrities celebrated Lizzo. Ashley Graham was everywhere. Plus size was having a moment — and it felt to me as though the hard work of disentangling morality and health from the shape of our bodies was finally, maybe, paying off.
Then, just as quickly, the moment passed. Old Navy walked back its initiative. Loft removed its plus-size offerings. Clothing companies returned to once again courting a thin minority. The haunting return of Y2K-style fashion coincided with the rise of drugs like Ozempic, used for its off-label weight-loss side effects. This spring, New York Fashion Week featured 31 plus-size models — which may sound like a lot, until you consider that about 3,000 models appeared over the week and the number of plus-size models was down from 49 the season before. No sooner had bigger bodies been invited to the party than we were being ushered out the back door again.
That might feel dispiriting. But there’s an antidote to the whims of a fickle, fatphobic fashion industry. I know exactly where I can find a perfect dress that fits me well and makes me feel great.
As my grandmother said, I just make it, toots.
















