#annick menardo

[moratoirenoir]

[persolaise]

Dior Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche and Bois D’Argent 2022 re-issue Review

Kurkdjian gives us his first release as perfumer at Dior… and it isn’t something new. My thoughts on the reissued Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche and Bois D’Argent.

Is this a good omen? Recently appointed as the in-house perfumer at Dior, Francis Kurkdjian has decided to commence his tenure not by giving us a brand new creation, but by returning to the past. Many of you will be aware that in 2004, the house issued three exclusive compositions, under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, who was the designer at Dior Homme at the time. The three were Eau…

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[princess-hippie]

Lolita Lempicka Mon Premier Parfum - Lolita Lempicka

If you want to smell like a fairy princess, this is it. The star notes are (to me) cherry, licorice, and violet. I would die for violet, especially this one. I think it’s usually described as a floral gourmand, but I don’t think gourmand quite fits. It’s more reminiscent of the sort of delicious-looking, sugared-violet-topped confection you might see at a fairy feast in the middle of the forest. You can look, but you know eating it would be bad (as tempting as it is).

Brand: Lolita Lempicka

Nose: Annick Menardo

Top notes: cherry, star anise, ivy

Middle notes: licorice, violet, orris, amaryllis

Base notes: praline, vanilla, tonka bean, musk, vetiver

Sillage: moderate

Longevity: long-lasting

[odoroussavourssweet]

Bvlgari Black

Notes: black tea, bergamot, rose; sandalwood, cedar, jasmine; leather, vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss

Nose: Annick Menardo

Annick Ménardo composed Bvlgari Black in 1998, a fetishy black-leather perfume for the era of Blade and The Matrix.

It opens on me with an overly-sweet, pound-cake vanilla, but quickly gets overtaken by a tarry black leather with a tire-rubber tinge, and a smoky lapsang souchang tea; and that’s where it stays for a good hour. It feels as comfortable and protective as a good leather jacket on a cold day.

But all good things must come to an end: the leather eventually wears away to the vanilla beneath, and I hate it. It’s very synthetic, it’s sweet and a bit crude, and it has that “mall smell” that I can’t see wearing by choice.

The rubber and black tea is a brilliant and original scent chord, and I’m sure that a different kind of ambery base could have been good, but this just feels vulgar to me, sorry.

[wrigller]

Lolita Lempicka (1997)

Perfumer: Annick Menardo.

[moratoirenoir]

[moratoirenoir]

[moratoirenoir]