Hey snake owners. Specifically ball python owners. I'm looking into getting a ball python this summer. I've been doing some research and I'm going to put some of the information I've gathered here and If anyone wants to correct me or add anything to what I have that would be awesome. I really want to give the snake the best home it can possibly have
General
Royal pythons, better known as ball pythons are a species of constrictor snake from West Africa. Ball pythons are known for rolling up into a ball. They come in hundreds of different morphs (patterns and colors) with thousands of different morph combinations. Ball pythons range from 3-5 feet with females tending to be larger. They live about 20-30 years. They tend to be incredibly docile snakes that don't mind being handled.
Husbandry
Ball pythons have very specific husbandry needs. One end of the tank needs to be a warm basking area and one needs to be cooler, so all heat sources should be placed at one end of the tank. The required temperatures are about
Basking surface temperature: 95-104°F (35-40°C)
Warm hide temperature: 86-90°F (30-32°C)
Cool hide temperature: 72-80°F (22-27°C)
Nighttime temperature: 70-78°F (21-26°C)
Fahrenheit is a more suitable measurement because of the smaller increments. The air temperature should never reach more than 95°F.
Ball pythons need plenty of hiding spaces, at least one hide on each end of the tank, preferably more depending on the size of the snake. Along with hides, they should have plenty of rocks, leaves, and branches to feel comfortable. While ball pythons are not arboreal (living in trees) many will climb if given the opportunity, so climbing space is also useful. A basking rock or branch in the hot end of the tank is also important. They need at least 6 inches of substrate that retains moisture well. Pythons are diggers and the depth is important. Coconut fiber and sphagnum moss are a good mixture to help retain humidity. Ball pythons require 60% humidity to thrive and so a water-retaining substrate is helpful, along with a large water bowl, daily mistings, and a humid hide. The snake also needs a heavy water bowl large enough for the snake to lie in but shallow enough to avoid drowning.
Growing ball pythons can be fed rodents no larger than the thickest part of the snake once every 7-10 days. Adult ball pythons can be fed once every other week. They should always be fed with tongs. Do not feed your snake if they are in shed. You will know they are in shed by a blue coating over their eyes.
Handling
Ball pythons almost always take well to handling and depending on the temperament of the snake can even enjoy it. It's best to tap train them which involves taking a paper towel roll or something extended from the hand beside the feeding tongs and tapping the snake every time it's taken out to be handled. This helps let the snake know that it is not being fed. It is important to pay attention to the snake's body language. If it seems stressed (tensing, bucking, heavy breathing) you should return it to its enclosure. A happy snake will have slow tongue flicks. A ball python (this depends on the snake but as a rule) should only be handled once daily for about an hour. You should not handle the snake for a few days before or after feeding it as this can cause it to go off food or regurgitate respectively. You should not handle your snake if they are in shed unless they have stuck shed. There are multiple ways to remove stuck shed including placing the snake in warm water or placing a warm wet towel on the snake.
Difficulties
Ball pythons are an incredibly popular snake. This unfortunately leads to a lot of mishandling. Snakes are kept in enclosures much too small with much too few hiding spaces. An adult ball python requires an enclosure that's at least 4x2x2 feet. Ball pythons tend to be very picky eaters. There are many reasons that they may go off food including improper enclosure conditions, handling before meal time, shed, and you look at them wrong. Feeding live is a controversial topic in snake keeping though I'm personally against it as it can be incredibly dangerous for the snake.
In snake breeding, there are several morphs associated with neurological issues including any spider, bee, champagne, spotnose, and woma morphs. These morphs are intrinsically linked with what is known as the wobble. The wobble is a neurological condition that can cause a snake to have difficulty keeping itself upright. It may lift its upper body so far that it falls back on itself (stargazing) and it may also turn its head in circles multiple times (corkscrewing). These behaviors create an incredibly stressful life for the snake.
Common conditions include:
Mouth Rot: an infection of the mouth that can be noticed by white or red puss in the mouth
Parasites: Internal parasites are often hard to spot but general unwellness (regurgitation, diarrhea, infection) in the snake should warrant a visit to the vet
Ticks and Mites: They can be hard to spot sometimes, especially with a dark or spotted snake but lifting up the snake's scales can reveal them attached to the skin
Skin Infection: It can be caused by an enclosure that is dirty or too moist and is noticed by red skin and blisters
Respiratory Infections: They can be noticed if a snake is blowing bubbles with their nose, yawning frequently not after a meal, wheezing, and gurgling sounds Inclusion
Body Disease: This is a viral disease that affects the nervous system. It demonstrates itself through the snake being unable to right itself and often paralyzation. This condition is usually fatal.
