DTLA: LQ @ SK Pop-Up!
Nested inside the heart of Downtown LA, my second visit to Starry Kitchen wasn't for tofu balls. Rather, I was here to try a pop-up shop featuring Laurent Quenioux, formerly of Bistro LQ. Dubbed Fooding Around in LA or LQ @ SK, I anxiously awaited the $45 Five-Course Prix Fixe Menu. My first bite of LQ's fine cuisine was over five years ago at a four table restaurant in residential area of South Pasadena - Bistro K. I was really impressed at how delicious, creative and incredibly inexpensive my meal was that I always wanted to go back. If only I hadn't moved to another country...
One of the perks of Bistro K was that it was BYOB and luckily, the same rules applied tonight. Blonde beers were the recommended pairing and a quick stop at the market yielded a six pack of Leffe, a Belgian Beer - light for its category with just a hint of bitterness for flavor and enough weight to get your appetite going. We also brought a bottle of Firestone Riesling. You know, just in case. Well, we ended up drinking that too!
We arrived hungry for the second seating of the night at 8:30. The first one was at 6:30. Luckily, there was Bread by Bread Lounge to tie us over.
The amuse bouche - Sea Snail in Soy Butter with sweetbread on shiso leaf. I wonder if this was an ode to Sally who sold sea shells on the sea shore. Ha! Despite my natural hesitation to eat these slimy creatures, the snail was nice and snappy and the peppery sweetbread contrasted nicely with the buttery slug.
I was too frightened to eat the tip of the snail which was a muddy color and had a liver like consistency. I pinched it off and left it on my plate. Of course, the boy had no problem eating it for me. Don't tell him but I secretly think it may have been it's bladder or digestive system. Ick. I tried looking up what part of the snail it was when I got home, hoping to understanding the difference in flavor and texture but got nothing.
The first course was Hamachi with Summer Vegetables (fresh corn and peas) served with lemon miso curd, black sesame soil, yuzu kosho, herbs and seaweed. I really appreciated the subtle fusion of Asian ingredients that LQ incorporated. The curd was lovely, almost like an Asian mustard. I could have done without the vegetables but the black sesame added a unique complexity when I started mixing it into my food.
This next dish wasn't much of a looker but it tasted good - Carlsbad Oysters and Mussels in a light tempura batter with a kimchi sabayon, chinese celery and cauliflower. I enjoyed the crispy protective layer for two reasons. First, for added texture. Second, it was a great flavor sponge. The rich sauce was deliciously subtle with the right balance of spicy, pickle and creaminess.
Don't judge a book by it's cover cause this isn't your average burrito! Rich, decadent and utterly fantastic. Inside is a glutton's dream...and guess what? It's not even a burrito.
I don't think my picture does it justice. And no, your eyes aren't deceiving you. Wrapped inside is the mother lode - Mu Shu Foie Gras. A big giant brick of seared foie gras embraced by a sweet hoisin glaze and slaw-like vegetables. This fusion of a French delicacy with a classic Chinese dish was deliriously delicious. Maybe, the reason why none of LQ's restaurants stay open is because artists usually don't make the best accountants. That said, it won't stop me from coming back for more!
Despite the glorious gluttony of the foie gras, the final savory course was definitely the highlight of the menu - Squab and Veal Feet with Ginger Cone Boudin Noir served with mashed potatoes and apple. At first, what I was most impressed with the variety of meat textures on one plate - gamey squab, tender veal and bolognese textured sausage. It's incredible that all the flavors harmoniously retained a balance together on one plate. What flawless teamwork - nothing overwhelmed another component and each bite seemed to enhance the flavor of the next bite.
The most curious item on this dish looks like an ice cream cone. Inside, the dark hued meat is a blood-sausage made with pork, pig blood and other parts. While the musty, earthy and gritty taste isn't for everyone, the flavor is like nothing else. It almost felt like I had robbed a smurf village of it's Thanksgiving feast! I had to take mini bites of everything to properly pace myself and I loved every second of it.
The last course was dessert - a Rhubarb Hazelnut Soil, Curacao Cube and Sour Cream Sorbet. Can't say I'm a big fan of rhubarb. I think it's just too tart to stand without pie crust and I found the texture to be sort of off-putting, stringy and half-digested. Apart from that, I thought the other components were on point. Bummer.
Before leaving, we were lucky enough to personally thank LQ for such a yummy meal. Things haven't changed much. Chef Laurent Quenioux is still serving up great food for a great price. Next time I'm in Pasadena, I'll also have to check out Vertical Wine Bistro to see what he's done with the menu there or maybe I'll just "pop" in again for another dinner seating at Starry Kitchen. Luckily, he'll be serving it up all summer long.
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LQ@SK - Fooding around LA 350 S Grand Ave Los Angeles, CA 90071 T: (213) 617-3474 W: bistrolq.com/LQ/SK/Foodings/