Yealm to Dartmouth via Bigbury Bay, Bolt Head, Start Point
Low water in the Yealm was 0911 on Thursday, so we had the unexpected pleasure of a leisurely breakfast, as we had to wait for a good hour after that to get over the bar. Luckily it was neaps, so there would still be 1.5m or so of tide.
We negotiated the moorings carefully and then passed Misery Point, looking out for the transit to cross the shallows behind the bar. We always had 1.4m or so under the keel, so it wasn’t too nervewracking. However, it was good to be out in Wembury Bay, with strong sun on the Great Mew Stone.
We had decided to miss out Salcombe and go right round Start Point and into Dartmouth in one go. The tides were favourable, but the winds were light, so we had to motor almost immediately. But at least the views of the coast were good in the bright sun. First we passed the section of the SW coast path we had walked the day before, then drew alongside the seven mile curve of Bigbury Bay.
About half way through the bay we passed Burgh Island, which is linked to the mainland by a tidal beach and a sea tractor service.
Next was the long cliffs from Bolt Tail to Bolt Head, scene of many a shipwreck in foul weather, but today looking relatively benign. Some yachts were bravely taking the inshore passage; we preferred to maintain a respectable distance, as gusts can spill down the cliffs and the rocky coast is full of lobster pots.
We rounded Bolt Head and could see the entrance to Salcombe, an improbable oasis of civilisation amid a rocky and forbidding headland.
The final obstacle was Prawle Point and then Start Point.
By now it was unbearably hot in the cockpit in the windless day, so I cowered below in the shade despite the great views along Start Bay.
By mid afternoon we were in sight of Dartmouth, in its usual role of welcoming haven.
As we approached the castle the paddle steamer was on its way out for a cruise.
We rafted up on the visitors pontoon of the Dart Haven marina in Kingswear. After a cooling shower, I didn’t fancy trudging around in the sunshine, so we repaired to the Steam Packet Inn for some blogging and passage planning, followed by supper in the Ship’s airy terrace and a great sunset from Orion’s cockpit.
